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THE LIBRARY OF CHOICE FICTION 


ON LAND AND 

OR 

CALIFORNIA IN THE 

184.5, ’44 and ’4J 

by y 

WILLIAM H. THOMES 

Author of “ A Gold Hunter's Adventures in Australia," “ The Bushrangers 
“ The Gold Hunters in Europe "Life in the East Indies “ A Slaver' s 
Adventures" “ Running the Blockade “ A Whaleman's 
Adventures,’' “ The Belle of Australia" 


ILLUSTRATED 3Y E. CHIL1DE MAS SAN 



SEA 



YEARS 

*' ' - ■ ' A ■■ 

. -..L ; 





CHICAGO 

LAIRD & LEE, PUBLISHERS 


1892 


C4_ (0 - / 4 €> '7 


aP ©f 
A „$N 






COPYRIGHT, 1892, by LAIRD & LEE 
(All rights reserved) 
COPYRIGHT, MDCCCLXXXIII, BY 

WILLIAM H. THOMES. 


CONTENTS . 


PART FIRST. 

I SEEK THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A SMILING AND BLAND CAPTAIN, WHO 
AGREES TO MAKE A SAILOR OF ME. — OFF FOR CALIFORNIA. — THE 
FIRST NIGHT AT SEA. — MY SHIPMATES AND MESSMATES. — THE STORM, 
AND THE EFFECT OF BEING SEA-SICK. — SHIP’S DUTY. — THE MYSTERI- 
OUS SCHOONER, AND A SAILING MATCH. 

PART SECOND. 

GAMMING WITH A SLAVER. — WHAT WAS WANTED. — WATER FOR GOLD. 

— A SICKENING SIGHT AND SMELL. — A MATE WHO DID NOT KNOW. 

— ON THE PASSAGE. —A GALE. — THE DOCTOR GROANS AND YELLS 
WORSE THAN EVER, AND LEWEY EXPERIMENTS WITH HIM, AND THE 
RESULT IS SUCCESSFUL. — OFF CAPE HORN. — A LONELY ISLAND, AND 
A SAD DEATH. — LEWEY’S POULTRY YARD. 

PART THIRD. 

LEWEY AND I TRY THE POULTRY TRADE, BUT THE CAPTAIN BREAKS UP 
THE BUSINESS. — A RAIN-STORM. — THE TREE AT SEA. — ARRIVAL AT 
MONTEREY. — THE U. S. SLOOP-OF-WAR DALE. — SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. 

— LIBERTY ON SHORE. — HOW SUNDAY WAS PASSED. — DRUNKEN MEN, 
AND FIGHTING SAILORS. 


PART FOURTH. 

PUNISHMENT ON BOARD A MAN-OF-WAR. — MAKING SPREAD-EAGLES OF 
SAILORS. — A GALE OF WIND. — THE SHIP’S AGENT. — IN THE SURF. — 
LANDING CARGO. — LIBERTY ON SHORE. — A FETE DAY WITH THE 
MEXICANS IN MONTEREY. — LEWEY’S FIRE-CRACKERS. — HOW WE 
WALTZED WITH THE GIRLS. 

PART FIFTH. 

LIBERTY ON SHORE AT MONTEREY. — DINNER AT MR. LARKIN’S. — THE 
EFFECTS OF A BOTTLE OF NATIVE WINE. — THE BOYS HAVE A LITTLE 
FUN HORSE-BACK RIDING. — SOME MORE FIRE-CRACKERS. — THE CAP- 
TAIN AND THE BEARS. — HE TALKS SPANISH. — ARRIVALS. — SAIL HO. 

PART SIXTH. 

THE SLOOP-OF-WAR CEYNNE BEATING INTO MONTEREY HARBOR. — SAIL- 
ING OF THE DALE. — EXCHANGE OF CHEERS. — A NAVAL CAPTAIN'S 
KIND WORD. — A DEER HUNT. — A ROW ON BOARD. — HOW IT WAS 
QUELLED. — A DONCELLITA’S SWEET LIPS. — LEWEY AS A COOK, AND 
HOW HE FAILED. — UNDER WAY. — A RACE WITH THE CEYNNE. 


iv 


Contents. 



PART SEVENTH. 

THE RACE, AND ITS RESULT. — WORKING SHIP TO WINDWARD. — SANTA 
CRUZ. — A DUCKING. — A FEAST OF STRAWBERRIES. — CAPTAIN GRA- 
HAM. — OFF FOR SAN FRANCISCO. — HOW THE TOWN LOOKED FROM 
TELEGRAPH HILL. — ARRIVAL OF THE CEYNNE. — CAPTAINS RICHARD- 
SON AND SUTTFR. — MILKING A COW. — SAN JOSE. — A HORSEBACK 
RIDE. 

PART EIGHTH. 

OFF FOR MURPHY’S RANCHE. — A JOKE WITH A SEA-LION. — AN OLD 
SAILOR MOLLIFIED. — AN AMERICAN HUSBAND, AND MEXICAN WIFE. — 
A SICK CHILD. — LEWEY AS A DOCTOR. — A STRONG TEMPTATION. — 
A CARGO OF DEER FOR THE CEYNNE. — SAN LEANDY AND A PRETTY 
WIFE. — OLD JONES ATTEMPTS TO KILL A BULLOCK. — OFF FOR THE 
LEEWARD. — RANCHE REFUGIO, AND ITS LADIES. — SANTA BARBARA. 


PART NINTH. 

MY FIRST DINNER AT SANTA BARBARA. — DON NORIEGO AND FAMILY. — 
MEXICAN SPORTS AND HORSEMANSHIP. — DISTINGUISHED COMPANY ON 
SHIPBOARD. — MY PRECIOUS BURDEN. — I GET COMPLIMENTED. — A 
WOMAN’S CONFIDENCE. — LEWEY RECEIVES A BLESSING. — OFF FOR 
SAN PEDRO. — CELEBRATING THE FOURTH OF JULY. — A NOTED PER- 
SON. — A SAILING MATCH. — SAN DIEGO. — CLEARING SHIP. — A DOG- 
FIGHT. 

PART TENTH. 

SAN PEDRO. — DUCKS AND WATER. — PASSAGE TO SANTA BARBARA.— 
GENERAL CASTRO ISSUES A PROCLAMATION, AND VISITS OUR SHIP. — 
THE RANCHE REFUGIO. — OUR DISAPPOINTMENT. — SAN LUIS OBISPO. — 
THE CAVE. — WATCHING HIDES ON SHORE, AND A FANDANGO. — ANI- 
TA AND ENGRACIA. — MONTEREY, AND THE NEW GOVERNOR. — MEXI- 
CAN 1ROOPS. ARRIVAL OF WHALESHIP MAGNOLIA, OF NEW BEDFORD. 

MINCE PIES. — LEWEY AND I ARE INVITED TO GIVE AN ENTERTAIN- 
MENT ON SHORE BEFORE THE ELITE OF MONTEREY, AND WE ACCEPT 
THE HONOR. 


9 PART ELEVENTH. 

OUR EXHIBITION AT MONTEREY. — A SURPRISED AND DELIGHTED AUDI- 
ENCE. ~ THE ALCALDA MAKES A SPEECH. — A PREMATURE EXPLO- 
SION. — SOME GRAND AND LOFTY TUMBLING.— A RACE. — SAN LUIS. 

RANCHE REFUGIO. SANTA BARBARA. — CATCHING FINBACKS. — SAN 
PEDRO. LETTERS FROM HOME. — A BEAR HUNT. 


PART TWELFTH. 

SAN DIEGO. — A STING-RAY. — FISHING AMONG THE KELP. — A SHIP 

H0ME -— another REVOLUTION. — PRONUNCIAMENTOS. 

CHILDRFN - A M ™/ Y - ~ THE M1DNIGHT GUN ‘ — SAVING WOMEN AND 
C LDREN. AN UNGRATEFUL GIRL. — UP AND DOWN THE COAST 

SAN FRANdSCa _ A TERRIBLE DE ATH. - A DEER HUNT -^BOARD- 

I k ; HIP UNDER DIFFICULTIES. —WAR THREATENED BETWEEN THF 

-GOOD™ 8 AND MEXIC0 - LAST RESORT FOR A DISCHARGE 



CHASED BY A SLAVER, 


PART FIRST. 

I SEEK THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A SMILING AN1) BLAND CAPTAIN, WHO 
AGREES TO MAKE A SAILOR OF ME. — OFF FOR CALIFORNIA. — THE 
FIRST NIGHT AT SEA. — MY SHIPMATES AND MESSMATES. — THE STORM, 
AND THE EFFECT OF BEING SEA-SICK. — SHIP'S DUTY. — THE MYSTERI- 
OUS SCHOONER, AND A SAILING MATCH. 

T HERE were several reasons why I visited California in 1843, and re ' 
mainecl on the coast for nearly three years, engaged in the laborious 
and not very agreeable work of hide-droghing, a branch of industry that 
belonged almost exc’usively to two Boston firms, — Messrs. Appleton & 
Hooper, and Bryant & Sturgis. It was a lucrative trade, and the above- 
named gentlemen worked it for all that it was worth for many years, or until 
after the annexation of California, and the discovery of gold on one of the 
forks of the American River, near the fortifications of Captain Sutter, the 
latter about a mile from what is now known as Sacramento City. 

The first reason that I had for going to sea was because I wanted to 
look at the world, and especially California, as I had read Mr. Dana’s 
“ Two Years Before the Mast,” and, boy like, wanted to encounter the dan- 
gers that he had met with. I desired to see the same ports that he had 


6 


On Laud and Sea. 


visited, to get wet in the same surf, to gaze at the same pretty Mexican 
ladies, the same indolent Mexican Caballeros, the same shiftless Indians, 
and the same skillful horse-riding ranch eros. I was a boy of fifteen, and, 
like other boys of the same age, thought it was brave and manly to leave 
home, and home comforts, for the hardships of a sailor’s life, yet, in later 
years, when I often exchanged a few words with Mr. Dana, I told him that 
to his book was I indebted for many months of the hardest work of my 
life, and, at the same time, the happiest, strange as it may seem. 

The second reason for going to sea was because I did not like to study ; 
was a nuisance to all my relatives and guardian ; and by my persistency in 
preferring a sailor’s life to any other. It was my delight to be on the water, 
to row a boat, to sail one, and many were the terrible hints that I would 
sometimes drop as to my firm intention, at a distant day, of becoming a 
famous pirate, or a noted and rich slaver, and making every one but the 
pretty and young girls walk the plank, while idle hours were passed at some 
tropical retreat, where fruit and light wines were plenty, and the head pi- 
rates of all w'ere waited on by dusky slave girls, who w'ould watch our every 
word and gesture with trembling patience, and hope for a smile. 

Of course, after such atrocious sentiments as these, my friends gave me 
up in despair. It was resolved, in family council, that I w r as a young mon- 
ster, and that only a long and difficult voyage, under a tartar captain, would 
drive the nonsense out of my mind and body, and I w r as told to look for a 
ship, and go in her, as soon as possible, and that is the way I happened to 
enroll my name on the shipping papers of the Admittance, of Boston, be- 
longing to the house of William Appleton & Samuel Hooper, both gentle- 
men, in later years, serving the State in Congress for several terms. 

The vessel was commanded by Peter Peterson, a raw-boned Dane by 
birth, his first trip as master, but who had made several voyages to Cali- 
fornia as second and first mate, under Captain Arthur, of the old ship Cali- 
fornia, in 1836-39, consequently he was well acquainted with the coast, and 
knew all about the trade, and how much cheating the Mexicans would stand, 
and how frequently they could cheat us, and not get exposed. 

It was with a bland and beautiful expression that Captain Peterson re- 
ceived my aovances for a position on his ship. I thought I had never seen 
a more genial and engaging smile as he told me that his vessel intended to 
ca i r > six boys ; that they w r ould all be required to live, and mess, in the 
steerage, to avoid being contaminated by the crew of the forecastle; and he 
was also pleased to tell me that lie really guessed I w f ould make a thorough 
sailor, and in a few years command a ship, which I thought w ? as next to be- 


On Land and Sea. 


7 


ing a crowned monarch, or the captain of a fire company, and yell through a 
trumpet to the boys to u Walk her up.” 

My delight was great,, almost uncontrollable, when the captain, still smil- 
ing, like a spring morning, said that he would take me, if my relatives and 
guardian were willing, and that he was authorized by the owners to offer 
me the munificent sum of six dollars per month for my valuable services. 
If he had said one dollar, instead of six, I should have jumped, and closed 
with his offer. Then he gave me lots of nice advice about obeying orders 
readily, and being good and faithful, and said that the avocation of a sailor 
was a noble one, and that the returns were always sure and certain, — when 
they came in, — and hinted that I must go to the custom house, and get a 
protection, because a protection protected a United-States sailor in every 
part of the world ; a statement which was slightly tinged with romance, as 
I afterward found out, when I needed the strong arm of an American con- 
sul, and discovered that the arm was as weak as potter’s wet clay. Other 
sailors have had the same experiences, I have no doubt, if they would re- 
late them. 

Well, at last all preliminary arrangements were made. I signed my name 
to the ship’s articles, obtained my protection, a chest brim full of sea 
clothes, and some few luxuries, quite a number of Mexican dollars in ready 
money, to spend on the coast of California, if we ever arrived there, and 
had the happiness of seeing my dunnage on board, my bunk made up, and 
even lent a hand to the riggers, which caused one of them to laugh and re- 
mark, — 

“ Well,. youngster, you ’ll get all the pulling and hauling you want before 
you get around Cape Horn, or I ’m much mistaken;” and I found his 
words quite prophetic ; but Captain Peterson, who was on board looking 
after cargo and stores, and uttering strong expressions when things did not 
go to suit him, smiled, and remarked that, — 

' “ You is a born sailor, Thom, and vill make a smart von,” which was de- 
licious music to my ears at the moment, but I have often thought since that 
time what an ass I made of myself to pull and haul ropes when there was 
no occasion for me to do so. 

On the 27th day of October, 1842, we unmoored from Lewis Wharf, and 
dropped anchor in the stream, to receive powder on board, of which we 
took large quantities. It was all stowed in casks in the run, out of the 
way of fire and lights, and about eleven o’clock A. M. the balance of our 
crew were parbuckled on board, some drunk, as a matter of course, and 
then the windlass was manned, sail made, and out of the harbor we steered, 


8 


On Land and Sea. 


and at one o’clock P. M. we discharged our pilot, and were off for Califor- 


nia. 

Amid all the confusion that occurred on board 1 tried to do my full share 
of work, for I ran when the men ran, I pulled when the rest did, was ready 
to let go of any rope that I was told to, although once the red-faced second 
mate blanked all of my relatives to eternal blankation because, in my eager- 
ness to obey orders, I nearly let go of the maintopsail halyards instead of a 
certain brace, and the captain, who was walking the quarter deck, in deep 
meditation, and solitary grandeur, smiled a sweet and gentle smile, but did 
not rebuke the officer, or open his arms to call me to his side, and pet me, 
as he might have done. We were now on the sea, and a captain’s demean 
or oniand and salt water is very different, as a general thing, as boys are 
well aware. 

However, I wanted to show the master that I had no ill feeling toward 
him, so waited until he came near the mainmast, and then said very 
politely, — 

“A nice day, captain. I hope we shall have a pleasan* passage.” 

He stopped short in his promenade, and grasped hold of the maintopsail 
sheet to prevent falling, so much was he surprised, and then he managed 
to gasp out, — 

“ Veil, I ’m blanked ! ” 

“ If this wind holds, captain, do you think we can get to California in a 
month’s time?” I demanded, but noticed that there was no smile soft and 
bland on his face, just at that time. To my surprise his. gray eyes looked 
threatening, and his face flushed, and his teeth came together with a snap, 
as he yelled out, — 


“You goes for’ard, and mind your vork, or I ’ll California you. Mr. 
Prentice, to the chief mate, a man whom I shall speak of hereafter, w can’t 
you find something for dis boy to do, vot is vondering round de deck, and 
in nobody’s mess ? ” 

“Ay, ay, sir. I think the foretop-mast needs slushing down. Get the 
slush-bucket, you Thom, and up aloft with you, and give it a lick ; ” and that 
is what I got for daring to be familiar with Captain Peterson on his own 
quarter deck, outside of Boston light, near Minot’s ledge. 

As I am writing these lines I have the captain’s private diary before me, 
with every day’s account of that voyage, and, although my name appears on 
its pages very often, not always for good conduct, but for some species of 
boyish prank and fun, he does not even mention this important incident, or 
state that he was sorry for the disagreeable job he caused me on that Octo- 


On Land and Sea. 


9 


ber afternoon, when I did not have my sea-legs on, and while my stomach 
was in an unsettled state, for the ship felt the motion of the swell in the bay, 
and I was all ready to pay tribute to Neptune at the proper time. But, 
thank the Lord for one thing, the mate did not give me any particular di- 
rections about slushing down the foretop-mast. He was too busy catting 
the anchor, and getting it secured on the bows for the night, and setting 
studding-sails, for the wind was fresh from the southerd and westerd, and 
we were headed to pass between Georges Banks and Nantucket Shoals, and 
all the officers were doing their best to make the captain think they were 
smart and active; but, in the mean time, I was perched in the rigging, hold- 
ing on with one hand, and putting slush on the spar with the other, and the 
largest portion went on the forward part of the mast, the very place you are 
usually told to avoid, so that the sail will not be soiled when it slaps against 
the spar in a calm. I shall never forget how Mr. Prentice blanked my 
eyes when he discovered what I had done toward ornamenting the sail, and, 
while he was yelling to me, and I was looking over the top at his angry, up- 
turned face, a disease, called by the polite French mal de mers, or seasick- 
ness, seized me as a victim, and I felt my stomach turn upside down, and, 
holding on to the topmast rigging until I almost squeezed the tar from the 
rope, I knew something rushed to my throat, and, before I could turn my 
head, there was a deluge, and the shower was directed toward the deck, 
and the mate acknowledged the compliment by wiping his hands, and blank- 
ing every one an inch high, and me in particular, until at last I came to the 
conclusion that he had never seen the inside of a Sunday school during his 
long and wicked life. 

Captain Peterson is now a grave and dignified old gentleman, a great 
friend of mine, and one whom I revere and respect, and once a week he 
drops into my office, and smokes a friendly cigar, but he has never apolo- 
gized for his repulsing my patronizing advances on that, our first day at 
sea, and, as he may have forgotten the circumstance, I recall it, in hope 
that he will offer some explanation, at this late day, for sending me aloft to 
slush down spars. 

But my job was at last finished, and I descended to the deck, and the 
mate roared, — 

“ Where in blankation did you come from, you boy ? ” 

“ From up there,” I answered, and pointed to the fore-top, quite inno- 
cently. 

“You 're a fool,” was the unsatisfactory retort. 

He was very near right, for only a fool of a boy would have left a good 


IO 


On Land and Sea. 


home to enter upon a sailor’s life, on a long voyage to California, at six dol- 
lars per month, and a liberal distribution of hard words on the part of the 
officers, when in an ill humor, and a fierce kick if things did not move to 
suit them. 

During the whole of the afternoon the crew were busily engaged in put- 
ting on chaffing gear, for the backstays had to be covered with mats to 
prevent the yards from injuring the rigging, the swifters had to be looked 
after, new ropes rove, sails trimmed to suit the fastidious taste of the 
captain, who still walked the quarter deck, looking after the ship, her course, 
and all the work that was going on, yet not uttering a word, except to the 
chief mate, who received his orders in silence, and then darted to all parts 
of the ship, to see that they were properly executed, stirring up the lag- 
gards, howling to the men who were aloft, directing the second and third 
officers what to do, and yet, in all the confusion that existed, according to 
my ideas, there was order and discipline, energy and much hard work, even 
if some of the men were still under the baneful influence cf strong drink, 
and hardly capable of holding on, away up aloft, by their eyelids, and work- 
ing with their hands, as sailors are compelled to do at all times, in gales 
and calms. 

But as two bells drew near, or five o’clock in the afternoon, marlin-spikes 
were put away, the decks were cleared up for the night, the rigging was 
coiled down so that it could be let go at a moment’s warning, and then the 
first mate walked to the galley where the black cook presided, and 
said, — 

“ Doctor, give the people their supper.” 

The cook was the “doctor,” and no one on board ever thought of calling 
him cook, unless it was the captain, who was too dignified to nickname any 
one. 

We crowded to the galley, and received our quart of hot tea, made sweet 
with molasses, and tasting a little herby, — for it is not first-class tea that 
sailors receive, and they do not expect it, but ours was as good as the usual 
run, — a kid of salt beef, some hard bread, and then the boys retired to the 
steerage, where we were to mess and sleep, in company with the carpenter, 
and, for the first time, I had an opportunity to look around me, and see who 
were my shipmates, and what they were like, for, although my stomach was 
not in good order, and the bilge-water made it feel ill, and my appetite was 
not strong enough to relish salt meat, still I felt as though the hot tea 
would do me good, and that I must eat a biscuit to sustain me during the 
long watches of the night, as I had been given to understand that I should 


On Land and Sea. 


1 1 


be expected to do duty on deck, when I had much rather have been in my 
bunk, and, oh, the changeful disposition of a boy, I would have given a mil- 
lion dollars, if I had been worth as much money, if 1 could have been dump- 
ed on to Lewis Wharf, which I had left with such a nautical swagger at an 
early hour that very morning, and once more felt and enjoyed the comforts 
of home. 

There were six of us boys in the steerage, all about the same age, except 
a French lad, named Louis, — but whom we called Lewey, as he gave 
the pronunciation, — a good-natured, jolly, handsome fellow, who had wan- 
dered to Boston from Havre-de-Grace, or some other place, and cared but 
little where he went, as long as he could be under pay, get his rations, and 
learn the English language. He was something of a sailor, a communion- 
ist, a socialist, and often expressed to me, in the lonely watches of the 
night, his great desire to be a pirate, and to have me as his first officer, so 
that we could divide our plunder fairly, while of the women prisoners he 
always insisted that he should have the first choice, and once we fought 
over that knotty point, because I declared that I would not submit to his 
dictation about the females, but would take the prettiest myself. He hit 
me on the face, and I tore out great handfuls of hair from his head, and 
then Mr. Prentice, the mate, interfered, and gave us a tonic, by sending 
us to slush down the topgallant-masts, and that was the first and last seri- 
ous trouble between Lewey and myself while we were shipmates and com- 
panions together, for we became chums at once, and agreed to share 
equally all prisoners, and other personal property, when we assumed the 
role of pirates, which we hoped to do at some distant day, and we often 
whispered how we would make the captain walk the plank, and then starve 
the rest of the officers, until they begged our pardons for past injuries, and 
would serve us faithfully in the future. 

The rest of the boys were named Bill, Tom, Harry, and Frank, and were 
as green as myself, except Harry, who had made a voyage to the East In- 
dies and back, and thereupon took unto himself the airs of an old salt, and 
actually ruled us for a month or more, until the rest of us got our sea legs 
on, and then we sized him down, and found that he could bluster, but did 
not work, and in a short time there was not a lad in the steerage but was 
enabled to hand and loose a royal as quick as Harry, and set a top-gallant 
studding-sail far better, and this the mate soon found out, and he named 
Harry the “ Old Sojer,” and that stuck to him until he left the ship months 
afterward. Once the lad threatened to throw me from the mizzen-top-gal- 
lant yard, while we were furling the sail, during a squall. He was to the 


1 2 


On Land and Sea. 


windward of the bunt, and I was to the leeward, and the sail slapping like 
mad, but he never repeated the threat, and before we were up with Cape 
Horn Harry used to crave the honor of bringing my pot of tea or cof- 
fee from the galley. There was no further trouble among the boys during 
the passage out, for the mate kept a sharp eye on us, and quelled all at- 
tempts at bullying from any one. He wanted to do all the fighting himself, 
he said. 

But I must give a description of our crew, for we have many months be- 
fore us. and it is necessary that the reader should know them. First the 
captain, or “ old man,” as everyone called him when he was not within 
hearing distance. As I have said, he was a Dane by birth, about thirty- 
three years of age, six feet four inches tall, with not a surplus pound of 
flesh on his bones, strong as a mule, and, like a mule, inclined to kick when 
things did not go just as he thought they should, bearing the reputation of 
being a tartar among those with whom he had sailed, and I rather think it 
was justifiable, for he was quick, too much so on some occasions, yet, at 
this late day, I can safely state that he was the best sailor I ever met on 
a quarter-deck, and that he knew his work, from thumbing a mat, to taking 
an observation of a heavenly planet, that he could safely handle a ship in 
all kinds of weather, and, if I have any knowledge of seamanship, it is be- 
cause I learned it by observing his motions as he watched the sails, the 
yards, and the spars. All the time I was with him we never lost a stick, 
and yet he could crowd the old Admittance so that she fairly jumped out 
of the water, when favorable winds drove us on our course. The ship was 
only about five hundred tons burden, the best sea boat, and the fastest 
vessel that I ever sailed in, and only once did we meet our match, and that 
was a slaver, off the coast of Africa, of which I shall have occasion to 
speak further on. 

Captain Peterson was unmarried, but there was a rumor among us boys 
that he had left a sweetheart in Boston, or somewhere else, to whom he 
was to be united on his return, so he was not a pleasant companion for his 
officers, or the solitary passenger who was in the cabin, a Mr. Cushing, a 
young fellow who was going to California as supercargo’s clerk, and grow 
up to the business. 

Of all the disagreeable beings in the world a man on shipboard, who is in 
love, is the worst, for he is thinking of the girl he left behind, and is tor- 
mented by jealousy, for fear she will smile, orflirt, with some other fellow, 
and, as a general thing, they do, for the temptation is great, and woman's 
nature is confiding, and her sailor is far away, and will never hear of the 


On Latid and Sea . 


13 


waltzes, and little parties, where waists are squeezed, and hands gently 
pressed, by ardent young men. 

I he captain was not strong in his English at that time. The vowels 
troubled him more than navigating the ship. He would seize on a “ w,” 
wrestle with it in a furious manner, toss it back and forth, and try to trip it 
up, yet that weak little vowel would always throw him, big as he was. But 
he was never discouraged by non-success, and generally came up smiling, 
to grapple once more, and again suffer defeat. The definite “ the ” was an- 
other enemy, always lurking near to aggravate him, and lead him along un- 
til the proper time, and then floor him, for the “ the ” was turned into “de,” 
and this enemy of foreigners always came up on top, and laughed at all ef- 
forts to defeat it, and when the old man would roar out to me, — 

“ You Thom, what de debil you doing dare ? ” I always knew better than 
to laugh, and it is useless to say that I jumped to obey orders, for I 
knew that he meant every word he said, and would be respected. 

Thom was about as near as the captain and officers could get to my 
name, and Thom was I called all the voyage. It was short, if not sweet, 
and suited me as well as all hands. 

But let me do justice to my old shipmate and captain. A more honora- 
ble and honest man never existed, for he would scorn to take a dollar not 
his own, and his owners’ interests were as sacred as a marriage vow in his 
hands. He never would allow his men to be kept short of food, always 
insisted that they should have enough, and of the best, saw that the crew 
were neat and clean at all times, and looked after their health as though 
he had a contract to keep them in good condition, and, indeed, he had, for 
he was not only captain, but surgeon as well, as the medicine chest was un- 
der his exclusive charge, and fearful were the doses that he thrust down 
many of the throats, when illness was made the plea to escape work. Ep- 
som salts was his favorite remedy. 

For three years was I with him, and a better man, to the willing and 
faithful, I never saw. Some of our boyish pranks he did not seem to ap- 
preciate as well as he might, yet he never laid a hand on me, or the rest of 
the lads, but he would scold, when provoked, and threaten, but he always 
pretended to forget the punishment we so well merited, sometimes, for 
Tom, Lewey, and I did try his temper on many occasions, and the rest of 
the boys were like hornets, always stinging and buzzing, and making fun 
where fun was possible. 

Mr. Prentice, the chief mate, was a native of Marblehead, a dark, sallow 
man, with a pleasant smile, snapping black eyes, fond of a joke, as cour- 


H 


On Land a?id Sea , 


ageous as a lion, a good sailor, and my favorite of all the under officers, yet 
he and the old man did not always agree on certain points, and one was as 
much to blame as the other, for not understanding the peculiar characteris- 
tics of temper each had. The captain showed his in a marked manner, and 
the mate was a rival of his superior as far as quickness was concerned. 
Mr. Prentice wanted to let up on . the men when there was no particular 
occasion for labor. The captain believed in work, and plenty of it, so a 
collision was not wholly unexpected by those who watched events. 

Mr. Davidson, the second mate, was a native of New Hampshire, a stout, 
red-skinned man, who loved his tot of grog better than he did his dinner, 
and the result could be seen in his face and hands. He had neglected the 
usual country schooling, and now, at forty years of age, was only a subordi- 
nate officer, and could never hope to rise higher, as he did not read or 
write, and had no ambition for learning either. He was a thorough sailor, a 
smart man, and rather afraid of the captain. He and I were always 
good friends, although he did swear at me once in a while, when I blunder- 
ed in some trifling thing. 

Mr. Goodhue, the third mate, was a native of Salem, a young man, who 
never had had much experience at sea, yet was a good officer, and always 
kept under the lee of the long-boat when the captain was on deck. He did 
n t like to be seen idle. Poor fellow, he was buried at sea, on the passage 
home, and Mr. Davidson was killed by falling from the ship’s foretop-sail 
yard, while we were lying in San Francisco harbor, in the year 1844. The 
third mate favored Lewey and myself above all others, because the French* 
lad gave him a pocket-knife with ten blades, and I presented him with a 
necktie of many colors, which was of no use to me, as I had plenty of 
clothes, and could afford to be liberal with my shipmates. 

The steward was a dandy mulatto, an excellent cook, and good servant 
to the old man, whom he would wait upon with much politeness and pa- 
tience, but had a perfect contempt for the rest of the officers,, and would not 
obey them if he could help it. The poor fellow got love-cracked on a half- 
breed Mexican woman, in Monterey, and the old man had one of the boys 
— Tom Butler— shave his head, and put a mustard plaster on his bare 
scalp, to draw the disease from his heart, but the remedy, a mild and gentle 
one, did not seem to have the desired effect, and one night the steward 
threw the deck tub overboard, and then got into it, and paddled for the 
shore, to seek his love, but was caught by the Indians the next day and 
turned woman-hater after the loss of his wool, and failure to join the wo- 
man of his choice. 


On Land and Sea . 


15 


Chips, the carpenter, bunked and messed with the boys in the steerage. 
He was a Swede, and a man in every respect, — good-natured, an excellent 
workman, a thorough sailor, and the best helmsman in the ship, and, in 
leaving or entering port, Chips was always stationed at the wheel. He 
had one great peculiarity, and that was drink ; not liquors, but tea, coffee, 
or water. He could drink more than any man I ever saw. As we were on 
an allowance of water all the passage, Chips would beg the boys to share 
their rations with him, even trading his portion of duff, every Wednesday 
and Sunday, for something to quench his great thirst. He was always hap- 
py when it rained, for then he would hold his tin cup under the break of 
the poop deck, and catch several gallons of water for future use, and, at the 
same time, swallow quart after quart, until we feared that he would burst. 
He had a funny way of keeping the run of time, for every Saturday, at 
twelve bells, he would cut a notch on the side of his berth, and exclaim 
with great satisfaction, — 

“ Anudder blanked veek gone, by dunder ! ” 

A good shipmate was old Chips, and every one liked him, from captain 
to steward. 

-The cook, or doctor, was black as the ace of spades, superstitious, and 
always suspicious of us lads, for he feared that we would steal the cabin 
grub from the galley ; just as though we would do such a disgraceful thing. 
It was reported among the boys that he had been formerly a Maryland 
slave, had killed his master, and entire family, and then escaped North, and 
joined the Admittance. He bunked in the steerage, and I think must have 
had a bad conscience, for his dreams were of the most frightful character, 
and night after night would startle us by the terrible howls and yells 
which he uttered, and only tin pots, marlin-spikes, old boots, beef bones, 
kids, and other convenient missiles, seemed to have the least effect on him. 
When, by accident, a marlin-spike did hit him square on the head, would 
he awaken to the fact that he had disturbed the sleep of the watch below, 
and then would rub his wool, and exclaim, — 

“’Clare to de Lord, boys, I had ’em powerful bad dat time. I dink it 
was dat salt hoss I eat for supper. Much obleege to yer, lads, for callin’ 
me as yer did. Yer is wery kind to de old man.” 

Then he would go to sleep again, and repeat his dreams and yells, and 
we endured all this until Lewey was driven almost crazy with rage. But 
the French boy hit upon a remedy to remove the nuisance, and how he did 
it will be disclosed in the course of this yarn. 

The doctor had a great affection for me, because I pretended to believe 


1 6 


On Land and Sea. 


all of his superstitious stories, and could talk to him about religious matters, 
as he had great faith in the church, and when the captain intended to have 
some special delicacy for the cabin table, and I smelled it out, I would say 
to Lewey, in a careless sort of way, as though I meant nothing in partic- 
ular, — 

“ The captain is to have pancakes for supper. Oh, how good they look 
and smell, and how nice they would taste, but there are none for us poor 
sailor boys.” 

Then that bad French boy would remark in a whisper, — 

“ You go talk serious dings vid de doctor at de vedder side of de galley, 
and I steal a lot of ’em from de lee side.” 

Then I would say to that bad boy, — 

“ It is wrong to steal, Lewey, and, beside, some one might see you. Do 
not disgrace your name and station in life by hooking pancakes from the 
doctor.” 

But such reasoning had no effect on that boy. He never came up to my 
standard of goodness, although I set him an excellent example all the time, 
and tried to rid his mind of communist ideas, and to persuade him to walk 
in the right path. He would listen, and then turn away, and steal once 
more from the galley, and bring half the proceeds to share with me. I gen- 
erally bolted what I received, to prevent that bad boy from being detected, 
and properly punished by the captain. Even the steward never dared to 
report his loss to the old man, for fear of an explosion, as the captain did 
not view jokes in the same light as the boys. 

Many is the time I have sat on a spar, at the weather side of the galley, 
and held the doctor on a knotty theological point, while that bad Lewey 
whipped from the plates fried pancakes, and, thrusting them into his shirt 
bosom, retreated to the steerage, unloaded, and then returned for more, re- 
gardless of my frowns and displeasure. 

I seldom tasted anything to equal the food stolen from the galley of the 
old Admittance, by that bad boy, Lewey, and when we were on the coast of 
California, and had Mexicans and other company on board for dinner, the 
way pies and soft-tack disappeared, right from under the cook’s nose, was a 
wonder to him, a mystery to the steward, and, sometimes, a bitter disap. 
pointment to the captain, and the strong-smelling greasers he had to enter- 
tain, greatly against his will. 

Our crew was a miscellaneous collection from all countries. There was 
Charley, the Dane, a good sailor, the bully of the forecastle, and the sea 
lawyer of the same. He was always neat in dress, and habits, but inclined 


07i Land a7id Sea. 


1 7 


to shirk hard work. Before we had been on the coast six months he played 
the sick game, and, from the position of bully and lawyer, came down to be- 
ing taunted with “sojering,” and then even the ordinary seamen kicked at 
him, and the boys mocked him, and he was very humble for a pleasant 
word, or a look, despised by officers and men. His fate will be revealed 
when we get on the coast, and at work on hides. 

The next man in importance was Old Jones, as we called him, an English 
man-of-war’s man, a good sailor, and as clever as a kitten, but he always 
got drunk, when he could, and rather liked it. Then came Scotch Jack, a 
man who was determined to fight, and smash things, when in liquor. He, 
also, had served in the English navy, and was a thorough sailor in every 
respect, although I think he was not the equal of Old Jones in fancy work, 
and in making and repairing sails. Then we had English Jack, who had 
made a trip in the United-States sloop-of-war Marion, and was the most un- 
mitigated grumbler in the ship. He would growl if there was a calm, a 
gale, a nice breeze, and if we were at anchor, or under way, at the grub, at 
the ship, at the officers, and at everything except rum, and when he could 
obtain a bottle of that he would usually grumble because there were not two 
bottles to get drunk on, for drunk he would get on every occasion, if liquor 
was to be had. I never heard his equal for fault finding. He is probably 
dead, and grumbling at his treatment at the present time, wherever 
he is. 

Then there was Fred, a fat, good-natured Dutchman, always ready and 
obliging, and with a pleasant laugh, and cheerful word in all kinds of weath- 
er, and with the hardest of work before him. He never grumbled, but he 
would drink when the liquor was handy, and did not cost too much. Peter, 
a simple-minded fellow, who had shipped as half sail-maker, and did not 
know his business, was an American, and the especial object of contempt 
of the old man. There was another Yankee whom he did not like much 
better, named Oliver, a sort of Bowery boy, no sailor, and who could never 
learn to be one, even if he had tried. 

There were others, but I have mentioned the prinicpal persons on board, 
for in all we numbered twenty-four men and boys, not including the passen- 
ger, and we were so strong, that when we got accustomed to our duties we 
could handle the ship like a pilot-boat, and not make hard work of it in any 
kind of weather. 

But I must now return to my first experience at messing in the steerage. 

I have described how I drank a little tea, and wished that I was once more 
at home, and how the longer I remained below the sicker I became ; but at 


i8 


On Land and Sea. 


last we were aroused by the third mate calling down the hatchway to mus- 
ter on the quarter-deck, as the watches were to be chosen, and our presence 
was required. 

I went on deck, and then had business at the lee gangway, which detained 
me until the red-faced second mate startled me by asking if I wanted to 
throw up my conscience, and to muster to the lee of the capstan, and hold 
up my head, and let him see what I was like, to all of which I complied, 
and then listened to the captain’s speech to his men and officers. 

It is the custom on long voyages for the masters to address their crews 
just before the mates choose their watches. I don’t know why they do 
so, or for what reason, as the sailors forget all that is said in a day, even if 
they are in a condition to understand the old man, as the glittering general- 
ities roll from his lips, and he surveys those under his command with a 
critical eye, measuring their capabilities and dispositions as he speaks to 
them, and warns them what to expect in case they do not mind him in all 
things, and be good and respectable. I remember Captain Peterson’s ad- 
dress much better than he does, so will repeat it. He was walking the 
quarter-deck at the time, uttering a few words, and then taking a pace or 
two forward, a sharp turn, a step aft, some more words, and then a repeti- 
tion of the promenade, and this is what he said : — 

“Veil, mens, ve is all bound on a long ” (two steps forward, and a short 
silence, then a turn aft, so that he could once more face the crew, the mates 
and all hands standing in* respectful attention) “ vige, and de better you 
minds me and de officers de quicker ve vill be home again. I am de cap- 
en” (a step forward and aft, and another silence) “ of de ship, and I means 
to be de capen, and ven I can’t be capen I ’ll be one of de crew. I vants 
you to be villing and quick ” (another turn, and more silence), “ and not to 
give me or de officers back answers. If you does der vill be trouble. I 
vill see dat you has good treatment, and enough to eat ’’ (another prome- 
nade, and a longer silence, as he was running short of words) “ and to 
drink, but I vill have none of de food vasted, now you believes me. You 
shall have enough, and more den enough, but, if you vastes, I ’ll put you on 
short allowance. Ven I speaks I vant all of you to jump ” (another paso 
back and forth, and a look that meant more than words. I resolved to 
jump, even if he glanced at me, from that moment), “and minds you calls 
all de officers by de handles of der names, and do you say ‘ sir,’ ven vou is 
spoken to, or there ’ll be trouble between us. I likes to treat men veil, but 
it depends on yourselves as to vot is to come. Dat is all I has to say to 


On Land and Sea . 


19 


you at present, and minds you don’t forget my vords. Now choose de 
votches, and let the starboard votch go below.” 

Just at that moment the man at the wheel struck four bells, or six o’clock, 
and one of the hands run forward, and repeated the hour on the large bell, 
just beaft of the foremast, and thus our sea life had commenced in earnest, 
and all the voyage, in harbor or at sea, that great bell tolled out the hours, 
and half hours, as regularly as a man-of-war that is in commission, and, un- 
less all hands were aloft, during a gale, some one -had to repeat the strikes 
of the little bell that was hung over the binnacle. 

The watches were chosen in the usual manner. The second mate repre- 
sented the captain, and so had the starboard watch, and the first choice. 
The chief mate and third mate represented the larboard watch, but the lat- 
ter had no hand in picking out men. He had nothing to say, and if he had 
uttered a word, it would have been rebuked as an impertinence by his supe- 
rior officer. 

The second mate made choice of Scotch Jack, as his best man, and Mr. 
Prentice took Old Jones, and so they went on, until at last I found that I 
was in the chief mate’s watch, and with me were Lewey and the boy Harry. 
This was a matter of congratulation to the French lad, and he expressed it 
by digging his elbows into my ribs, and whispering that we would have a 
good time spinning yarns, while we walked the deck night after night ; to 
all of which I responded with a groan, and wished myself at home more 
fervently than ever, and then went to the rail, and relieved my bosom of 
that which appeared to be rebellious and disaffected matter. 

The men shuffled forward, English Jack already grumbling, and express- 
ing his opinion “ that he had sailed in all sorts of ships, and in all sorts of 
weather, but for a bloody old tub, mean living, hard usage, and plenty of 
work, the Admittance was the worst vessel he was ever in, and he would 
cut sticks at the first port we dropped anchor,” which meant that he would 
run away, a threat that he was always making while on board, but he never 
carried it out, and if he is now alive I dare say he is boasting of the grand 
old times he had on the coast of California, in the Admittance, and the 
good grub he ate, and the kind treatment he received at the hands of the 
officers. The last ship is always the best with a sailor, and the present one 
the worst. 

The boys went forward with the men, but we had hardly got anchored 
on the windlass, where I expected to hear some romantic stories of the 
gea> from the old sailors, but, instead of listening to yarns, we were driven 


20 


On Land and Sea. 


aft by Mr. Goodhue, the third mate, who told us that Mr. Prentice wanted 
to see us on particular business. 

We found the chief mate walking the quarter deck, smoking a long-nine, 
for he had ten thousand of them on board (they used to sell two for a cent), 
and thought they were the equal of the rarest of Havanas. The captain 
had retired to his cabin, and was soothing his lacerated feelings by trying 
to pump out music on an accordion, and he produced the most doleful 
sounds, like the moaning of the spirits of dead sailors, if such was possible, 
assembled in joint convention, to try some cruel captain for bad treatment, 
and, perhaps, murder. The instant those discordant tones fell upon my 
ears, in all their cruel distinctness, I had occasion to once more repair to 
the lee side, and relieve my feelings and stomach at the same time. The 
old man had no compassion on us, the passenger, or the mates. He tor- 
tured that accordion for an hour, and thus refreshed his overcharged breast. 
We boys, on the passage, wished, with all our hearts, that the captain had 
married before sailing, and brought his wife with him. No woman of spirit 
would have tolerated that accordion more than once, and then it would have 
found a watery grave, or the owner would have been paralyzed in a moment 
of desperation, and with the applause of all hands. 

But all this time we were gathered around the capstan, and Mr. Prentice 
was walking the weather side of the quarter-deck, in humble emulation of 
the captain, and we waited to hear what he had to communicate to us. He 
puffed at his long-nine a minute, and then said, — 

“ Look here, you blanked monkeys, if I ever catch you forward of the 
galley in your watches on deck, at night, unless you are sent to do a job, I 
’ll give you some old iron to work that you ’ll remember. Your place is on 
the main hatch, or under the lee of the long-boat, where I can keep an eye 
on you. I ’m a terrible fellow when in earnest, and if you want to be men, 
and good sailors, I ’m the one to teach you. Get out of this, and keep your 
eyes open, for I ’ll have no caulking on deck. Do you hear ? ” 

“ Yes, sir,” came in trembling tones from some feeble throats, and we 
thought he was a monster, and I determined, if ever I wrote a book like 
Mr. Dana, to paint Mr. Prentice in colors so black that the stain would 
never be erased. How little did I suspect from his ominous growl, that he 
had one of the kindest of hearts, and, like the old man, would much rather 
praise and reward, than find fault and punish, for all the time he was ad- 
dressing us his black eyes were just twinkling with fun, first at us in our 
fright, and secondly at the doleful sounds Captain Peterson was producing 
on his beloved instrument, in the upper cabin. 


On Land and Sea. 


21 


“ By the way, which of you boys was sick in the foretop this forenoon ? ” 
the mate asked, as we were about to seek our quarters, under the lee of the 
long-boat. 

“ I, sir,” was my answer, rather faintly spoken. 

“ Do you feel sick now, you miserable little monkey?” 

“Yes, sir.” 

“ Well, you ’ll be all right in a few days, and then we shall have a famine 
on board, and short rations, but if you ever again aim the contents of your 
stomach at my upturned face, I know of a boy who will suffer. Now be 
off with you, and mind that you jump when 1 give an order, for I sha’n’t 
speak twice.” 

It seemed that the mate wanted us to jump as well as the old man, and, 
in fact, I found that it was jump all the time I was on board. 

Mr. Prentice did not remain with us all the voyage. He and the captain 
disagreed, and the mate was discharged in Santa Barbara, and went down 
the coast, and, I believe, died at Peru, some years later. May the turf be 
ever green over his grave, and I hope that his generous soul is safe from 
gales, and the uncertainties of life, in a haven of rest, where ambrosia, and 
not salt horse and hard tack, is the fare of a sailor, if all we read is true. 

At eight bells the watch was changed. The starboard watch came on 
deck, and the larboard watch went below to sleep until twelve o’clock. 
The old man came out of his cabin as the bells struck. He had laid aside 
his accordion for the night, and now gave orders to the second mate as to 
the course of the ship, general directions to keep a good lookout forward, 
to call him if there was a change of wind, and then looked suspiciously at 
the clouds, and asked how last the log showed that the ship was sailing, 
lighted a cigar, paced back and forth, and, no doubt, thought of the dark- 
eyed girl he had left behind, and whom he could not hope to see for two or 
three years. 

I had half a mind to ask him to put me on board the first ship we met, 
and send me home, and I thought I would give my note of hand for any 
amount he might name, for such a favor. But, as he did not appear to be 
in a mood for private conversation with one of his boys, I reluctantly re- 
linquished my design, and felt my way down the steps of the booby hatch, 
turned in, and had one of the most bitter, quiet cries that I ever experienced 
in my life, and then fell asleep, and dreamed of home and its comforts, and 
from that dream I was rudely awakened by hearing some one yell out, — 

“ Tumble up here, you boys, and help reef topsails. Be lively about it, 
or I ’ll come down there, and hurry you on deck.” 


22 


On Land and Sea. 


•We were on our feet in an instant. The ship was pitching and tossing, 
and laying over almost, it seemed to me, on her beam ends, and I could 
hear the men singing out at the ropes, the seas breaking over the bows, 
and swash along the lee scuppers. Chests and loose articles had broken 
adrift, and were pounding and grinding together in the steerage, where 
there was no light to see each other. We had to hold on with one hand to 
our berths, and pull on our trousers with the other, while we strove to find 
our shoes, which were not in place, as a matter of course, and all this time 
the old man was roaring like a lion on the quarter-deck, and the second 
mate screaming in the waist, and Mr. Prentice and the third mate boiling 
over with expletives forward, and damning everybody and everything, and 
shouting to let go of this, and to haul on that. Then Lewey darted up the 
steps, leaving behind the pleasant information that we should catch it unless 
we were up in less than a second. 

I did not attempt to find my shoes. I gained the deck, and as I reached 
it a heavy sea struck the Admittance full on the starboard beam, and she 
gave a roll, and a pitch. A shower of spray swept the decks, filled the lee 
scuppers, where the second mate was at work hauling out the maintopsail 
reef-tackle, and away I went head-first, as though shot out of a catapult 
and just at that moment Mr. Davidson was crawling to windward, and I 
struck him full on his capacious stomach, and both of us went to the rail, 
with the water up to our knees. 

“ Blank your heart to blankation,” roared the second mate, and seized me 
by the collar of my monkey-jacket. “ Who in blankation are you any 
way ? ” 

Just at that moment my stomach again revolted, and up the sleeve of his 
coat went that which was intended for the fishes of the ocean. Then he 
did roar. 

“ Blank you ! who are you ? ” and he gave me a shake and an oath at the 
same time. 

“ I ’m Lewey,” I managed to answer, and, as it was so dark, he could not 
tell one boy from another, I thought the reply quite satisfactory. 

“ I ’ll Lewey you,” was the response, and he gave me a flirt to the wind- 
ward, and then I found that I was close to the old man, but, as he did not 
appear to care to enter into conversation with me just at that time, I got 
out of his way, and staggered forward. It appeared to me that a scene of 
awful confusion and disorder prevailed, and I expected to go to the bottom 
every moment, and did not care much if I did. 

It was blowing a young gale from the southerd, such as I learned to 


On Land and Sea. 


23 


laugh at in less than three months’ time; the waves appeared to be moun- 
tain high, and looked fierce and phosphorescent, but, in reality, they were 
not more than potato hills as compared to the seas we encountered off 
Cape Horn ; the clouds were scudding across the sky as though anxious to 
get home before morning; large drops of rain were falling, and the carpen- 
ter had his tin pot near the galley, ready for an emergency, or in case there 
was much of a shower; the topsails were on the caps, slatting and slapping, 
the mainsail was hanging by the c’ew-lines and bunt lines, and adding to 
the uproar ; the jib, which had been hauled down, was doing its best to 
wind itself around the jibboom, and carry away some of the strong stays, or the 
spritsail yard ; and, to add to the solemnity of the scene, the forward bell 
tolled dolefully as the ship rolled and pitched in the head sea. 

“ Lay aloft there, larboard watch, and put two reefs in the foretopsail. 
Be lively, and don’t let the starboard watch beat you. Up you go, you 
boys. You may as well learn how to reef a topsail now as at any other 
time. Away with you, every mother’s son of you, or I 'll hasten your 
movements with a rope’s end. Come, stir your stumps.” 

I crawled up the fore rigging, while Lewey went over the ratlins like a 
cat, for he had been there before, but when I came to the top I sneaked 
through the lubber hole, and gained the yard, already black with the watch. 

I got close to the topsail tie, and held on, and wondered why men, or boys, 
wanted to be such confounded fools as to go to sea, and encounter many 
terrible and dangerous toils, and then my stomach again revolted, and I did 
penance for my sins. 

“ Light out to wind’ard,” yelled the third mate, who was at the weather 
ear-ring, sitting on the extreme end of the yard-arm, and the watch took up 
the cry, and one man asked me, in a cross tone, — 

Why in blankation don’t you light out to wind’ard, you monkey ?” 

“ If I should light out of this I ’d never come back again, I assure you,” 
was my answer. 

But he did not appear to appreciate the joke, for he muttered that he ’d 
break my head if I gave him any back talk, so I deemed it advisable to hold 
my tongue, and myself to the topsail tie at the same time. 

“ Haul out to lew’ard,” yelled the third mate, and I also repeated the cry, 
because every one else did, and I desired to be in the fashion, although I 
had n’t the slightest idea what it meant. I supposed that it was something 
important, or there would not have been such a unanimous vote on the 
subject. 

“ Haul the sail well up on the yard, and knot away,” was the cry of the 


24 


On Land and Sea. 


third mate, and I made a pretence of doing something, but the sailor on my 
right said, — 

“ You blasted fool, you ’ve £ied a granny. Here, see me. Tie a good 
square knot, and then it won’t slip. Remember another time, or you ’ll have 
the mate in your hair.” 

It was Old Jones who gave me my first lesson in seamanship, and many 
a tot of grog did he receive at my hands, on the coast, to repay him for his 
kindness, while the cross shipmate, who was not much of a sailor after all, 
went dry, even if he did learn to treat me with respect, as one who could 
hand, reef, or steer, or send up or down a royal yard, better than himself. 

We got the two reefs in the topsail, after a fashion, for the men were 
new to the ship, and to each other, and then went on deck, hoisted the 
yard, and beat the starboard watch just half a minute, thus making Mr. 
Prentice rub his hands, and utter a few words of praise. 

Three of the larboard watch then went out, and furled the slapping jib, 
while the boys, and two ordinary seamen, were sent aloft to take two reefs 
in the mizzen topsail, and the remainder of the crew furled the mainsail, 
and when the hard labor was completed it was eight bells, and the wheel 
was relieved, the second mate threw the log, and the starboard watch went 
below to sleep until four o’clock, when it again come on deck, and we went 
to our bunks to rest until seven bells, or half-past seven o’clock, when we 
were called, had breakfast, and remained on deck until six o’clock in the 
evening, for the Admittance was not a watch-and-watch ship, half the crew 
on deck, and half below, unless the weather was bad, and no work could be 
done, then we had an afternoon below, and very grateful we were to the 
weather that gave us a chance to rest. 

People, who know nothing about a sailor’s life, seem to think that sea- 
men have little to do except sit around on deck, and see the ship go 
through the water, and to make and take in sail. All such should have 
served an apprenticeship on the Admittance. The fallacy would soon have 
been exposed. Men on a crack ship are never idle, except during the long 
watches of the night, and even then sail has to be taken in and made, and, 
sometimes, when a quick passage is desirable, the night watch have neither 
rest nor comfort, for the yards have to be braced to catch every favorable 
breath of air, studding-sails hoisted, and taken in, squalls to be looked after, 
and canvas shortened to meet an emergency, the wheel to be relieved every 
two hours, a sharp lookout kept, to see that vessels are not run into, and, 
when the officer of the deck is afraid of the captain, and all of ours were, 
except Mr. Prentice, there is not much chance for the men to do a little 


On Land and Sea. 


25 


caulking (a sailorism for sleeping on deck during the night watches). The 
chief mate used to favor us boys, or, rather, he seemed to wink at our cat 
naps, for he would tell vas to pile on the main-hatch, pull a tarpaulin over 
us, and keep our eyes open, or he would haze us within an inch of our lives. 
For two or three watches we really thought that he was in earnest; but 
one night the third mate reported that the boys were napping, he believed, 
and Mr. Prentice told him to let us alone, only to stir us up if the old man 
came on deck, and he was liable to at any time, to see if the officers were 
awake, doing their duty, and to get a look at the weather. Then Mr. Good- 
hue would rout us up with a kick, and in an instant we would be awake, and 
vigilant. Then Lewey and I would discuss some nautical evolution, which 
he could explain to me, as he was a better sailor than myself, or he would 
teach me French, and I give him lessons in Spanish, of which language I 
had some little knowledge, having studied it while at school. Thus we got 
on quite famously, while the old man paced the quarterdeck, and the chief 
' mate stood near the mainmast, smoking his cigar, and never speaking to 
the autocrat of the ship unless spoken to. 

But we were always terribly sleepy, and sometimes so drowsy that we 
| could not keep our eyes open, and our heads would sink upon our breasts, 
and we dropped off to dreams of home, and good living, and then the stern- 
voiced chief mate would utter a protest. 

“ Keep your eyes open, you boys,” he would say. “The first thing you 
know the ship will tumble overboard, and then where will you be ? ” 

I always thought this funny, and used to laugh, as in duty bound, for it 
rather encourages an officer to have his jokes appreciated, if disposed to be 
familiar, and once Captain Peterson, on the passage out, while I was at the 
wheel, during light weather, learning how to steer, and box the compass, 
asked me, with a bland smile, something like his shore sweetness, — 

“ Veil, Thom, how does you like to be a sailor? ” 

And I smiled back, a subdued smile, not a familiar one by any means, as 
befitted my station, and said, — 

“ I hope that I shall like it in time, sir, or as soon as I become as good a 
seaman as yourself.” 

And that little touch of flattery did good work, for he smiled some more, 
but in an instant, as he thought of the girl he had left behind, his face 
clouded, and he said, — 

“ It ’s a vile life, my lad, a dog’s life, and don’t you follow de sea if you 
can get a chance to drag a hand-cart on shore,” and, as he did not appear 
disposed to continue the conversation, I had no more to say. 


2 6 


On Land and Sea. 


The work on our ship did not vary from that on all regularly disciplined 
vessels. The morning watch were started into life and activity, in the 
warm latitudes, about half-past five o’clock, the head pump' rigged, the buck- 
ets mustered, and the decks washed down, fore and aft, and then swabbed 
dry, all ready for the captain’s inspection, when he made his appearance, in 
slippers, at seven bells. The chief mate superintended the work in his 
watch, and the third mate, with trousers rolled up to his knees, did the 
splashing of water, and the boys the scrubbing with brooms. The cook 
started a fire in his galley, made coffee, and the mate would take a cup, but 
none was allowed Mr. Davidson or Mr. Goodhue, their rank not being up 
to the coffee standard, much as they would have liked a drop at an early 
hour in the morning. In cold weather that bad Lewey would get me to 
make some commonplace remark to the cook, and then would steal a pot 
of the peculiar-tasting liquid, and make a break for the forecastle, where the 
watch below were all asleep, and snoring, and would divide his ill gotten 
gains with me. Even if the coffee was not seasoned with cream and loaf 
sugar it did taste good. But I always condemned Lewey for the means he 
took to procure the refreshment. It was wrong, but, when off Cape Horn, 
in snow, sleet, gales, and ice, I generally pardoned the French lad, for he 
had peculiar notions about property, and was, as I have said, a real com- 
munist at heart, and a republican, and longed to be a pirate, above all things 
in this world. 

As soon as the decks were washed down, and dried by swabbing, there 
was half an hour or more to be employed. It would not do to let the old 
* man see the men <oafing about forward, doing nothing. That was a sin 
never to be forgiven, so the chief mate, if our watch was on deck, and 
Mr. Davidson, when he had the morning hour, devised all manner of meth- 
ods for killing time, to fill up that half hour. Some days we would get 
tackles on the topsail sheets, give the topsail yards little more of a hoist, 
fool away a few minutes on the topgallant-sails, send men aloft to look after 
the chaffing gear, to cut adrift an Irish pennant, to parcel a place where 
there was a suspicion of a chafe, to put on battens, whip the end of ropes, 
and to do anything that the mate could study up in his active brain, while 
the boys would polish the bells, and capstan, or scrape belaying pins, and 
iron work. 

I remember quite plainly that a few days out, just after we had passed 
the Gulf Stream, and my stomach was at rest, but clamorous for food, one 
morning, while tired and faint, I sat down on a spare spar, near the galley, 
and wished that I was home, and a pyramid of buckwheat cakes before me. 


On Land and Sea. 


2; 


I thought that I had earned my munificent salary, for that day at least, but 
just at this moment the old man came on deck, and sniffed at the weather, 
at the^riamp deck, at the light breeze, at the work that was going on. He 
spoke to Air. 1 1 entice, and nodded toward me. 1 thought the captain was 
complimenting me, and had serious thoughts of taking me into the cabin, 
and making a fast ftiend of me, and promoting me to the position of private 
secietai \ , 01 cleik. 1 had read of such things, by real nautical writers, who 
know more about a mule than they do about a ship, but judge of my disap- 
pointment when Mr. Prentice came toward me, and said, — 

“Thom, you 'll have just time to get the slush-bucket, and give that 
foretop-gallant mast a lick, and don’t put as much as a spoonful on the for- 
ward part of the spar, if you do there 11 be trouble between us, as sure as 
you live.” 

And I crawled up, weak and tired as 1 was, to the spar, and slushed it 
down, just as eight bells were struck. The next morning watch the same 
thing occurred, and once more I made a long journey to the fore-royal mast, 
and gave that a coating of grease, then took the hint, and when I had noth- 
ing to do I kept out of the old man’s sight, or crawled into the long-boat, 
and pretended to be working for all that I was worth, or else dodged 
around the foremast. 

Every morning the scuttle-butt had to be replenished, if we were lucky 
in filling our spare casks during a heavy rain storm, and, if we were not, we 
were kept on an allowance of three quarts of water per day, and had it 
served out to us in demijohns, of which we had large numbers on board to 
sell to the Mexicans, and once a week, or more, a barrel of beef, or pork, 
had to be broken out, and the harness cask filled, and we would have the 
pleasure of seeing the steward standing by, and put a private tag on all the , 
best pieces, for the cabin table. But that is common on all ships, and so 
does not excite comment from poor Jack. 

That bad boy, Lewey, used to change the tags, in the night time, when 
no one was looking, because I suggested to him that there should be an 
equal distribution of food, and then, when the old man got a piece of salt 
horse on his table, instead of a fat junk of meat, there would be an explo- 
sion, and the steward would wonder how it happened, and if his judgment 
and eyesight were not failing. 

I will not tire the reader with an account of our everyday life, for it 
would be tedious. We caught the trades while well over toward the coast 
of Europe, and they carried us nearly to the line, and then left us in the 
doledrums, where we had squalls and rain, calms and a glassy sea, with 


28 


On Land and Sea. 


long, heavy swells, that kept the ship rolling and pitching, and heading for 
every point of the compass, not even haying steerageway more than two 
hours out of the twenty-four. 

In the mean time the boys fast learned the duties of their stations, and 
could loose or furl a royal, or haul out an ear-ring, and reef a topsail, to the 
entire satisfaction of the mate. 

Once in a while, during the quiet watches of the night, Lewey and I 
would steal forward, and mingle with the men, to hear their long yarns of 
the dangers of the sea, but, to my surprise, they did not spin stories of man- 
of-war life, and cutting out expeditions, but confined their topics to the good 
times they had had on shore, and how many occasions they had got drunk, 
with a minute account of every circumstance in the case, and how the land- 
lords of the sailor boarding-houses had cut up quite rusty when the funds 
began to run low, and what Mullie and Susie said, conversation that need 
not be repeated, or even imagined by my young or old readers, for it was 
not fit for boys to hear. Still we listened with greedy ears, and wondered 
if we should act like those old salts, when we grew tough, and became per- 
fect sailors. 

Then the men would tell of the rows they had on shore, and how the 
bloody police had made a raid on them, and the way they escaped the 
sharks, and what good grub they had at Murphy’s or O’F.ouke’s, with three 
square meals a day, and spuds on the table every time, and when I asked 
them what “ spuds ” were they answered, — 

“ Potatoes, you greenhorn. We thought every fool knew what spuds 
were,” and then they *would digress a little, and tell of a ship they sailed in 
that furnished potatoes to the crew every day for dinner during an entire 
passage, and English Jack would growl out, — 

“ Ah, that was a ship worth sailing in, but this bloody old hooker is 
enough to kill a sailorman. Ah, what a fool I was not to stick to the last 
vessel I was in. The skipper begged me to stay with him, and hinted that 
I could have a second mate’s berth if I wished.” 

Then Old Jones would sneer, and say, — 

“ What a blanked second mate you would have made. You don’t know 
enough to do ordinary seaman’s duty,” and there would be loud words, and 
the third mate would come forward, and catch us, just as we were stealing 
aft, and then Mr. Prentice would find some job for us that would keep 
us on the move until our watch was out, as a punishment for disobeying 
orders. 

But the temptation to go forward was irresistible, and on dark nights we 


On Land and Sea. 


29 


dodged the vigilance of the officers, and heard more about good ships and 
bad ones, and growls about the work, and vessels that were “plum-pud- 
dingers,” or where the men were allowed raisins in their duff, had watch 
and watch, and the skipper was a whole-souled, noble-hearted man, who 
always gave his crew a tot of grog when they reefed topsails, and sea pie 
every other week, and luxuries never heard of before, or since, on a mer- 
chant ship, although our men-of-war do issue rations of butter, and other 
articles which are not found elsewhere, but the grog was stopped long agO; 
the very thing the old salts desired above all else. 

One morning, the day we crossed the line, thirty-eight days from Boston, 
— a very good passage, — in longitude 27 deg. west, we took a pleasant 
breeze from the African coast, and were headed south by west, with stud- 
ding-sails out, and the ship slipping along as easy as a girl through a qua- 
drille. We were about two hundred miles from the shore, but our deck and 
sails were covered at least an eighth of an inch thick with fine, brown dust, 
which had fallen during the night, and adhered to the damp spots, where 
the dew had fallen, and with it came the pulverized dust of the deserts ; 
even the interior of Africa had contributed its share of soil, it is probable. 
It was as light as meal, and for days, or until the wind changed, did we re- 
ceive a contribution from the land. We had no occasion for sand in holy- 
stoning our deck for a week or more. 

This phenomenon is not always met with while running down the coast, 
and before the southeast trades are taken. I suppose that some terrible 
whirlwind had passed over Africa, and filled the air with powdered dust, and 
that it had drifted to sea, and, while not perceptible to the eye in the air, 
made its presence felt in every part of the ship. I heard the captain tell 
Mr. Prentice that he had never seen the like before during all of his voy- 
ages around Cape Horn. 

The dust, and the African coast, aroused all of Lewey’s enthusiasm, and 
he said that he should like to run into some harbor, with a clipper schoon- 
er, and load up with negroes, and then sail for Cuba, and sell them for 
three hundred dollars each, and when I asked him if that was in accordance 
with his ideas of liberty and equality, he said that the negroes were not the 
equal of a white man when money was concerned, and that the blacks rath- 
er liked it. As I did not know much about the subject I did not contradict 
him, and let the matter drop. 

While we were in good weather all hands were kept on deck every after- 
noon, and the boys were set at work drawing yarns from old junk, making 
spun-yarn by the aid of the winch, which was kept humming all the time, 


30 


On Land and Sea. 


forenoons and afternoons, while the old sailors made mats, to protect the 
standing rigging, repaired that which needed looking after, set up backstays, 
tarred down, mended sails, and were kept at work from morning till two 
bells, or five o’clock in the afternoon, when the decks were usually cleared 
up, swept down by the boys, the ropes coiled in place, on the belaying pins, 
all ready to let go in case of a squall, and then the old man would make his 
appearance on the quarter-deck, after a comfortable siesta, and take his 
usual promenade, and study up work for the next day,. and the mate would 
walk slowly forward, and say to the cook, — 

“ Doctor, give the people their supper,” and we would rush to the galley, 
and get our pots of tea, and Chips would trade off his allowance of hard- 
tack, for the sake of getting more water bewitched. 

The second day after crossing the line the larboard watch ^as aroused at 
four bells, or six o’clock in the morning, by the cry of, — 

“ Tumble up here, you boys, and help make sail. Be lively, or I ’ll come 
down there, and stir your stumps for you.” 

We were out of our berths in an instant, and on deck, wondering what 
the matter was, for the call was an unusual one. There was no need of 
making our toilettes. A shirt and pair of trousers were all that we wore in 
that hot climate, and shoes and stockings we had discarded long before. 
The soles of our feet had become so hardened that we could go up and 
down the ratlings without feeling uncomfortable. A single watch can gen- 
erally make sail, unless there is much sickness on board, and the crew is 
short-handed, so we were anxious to know what the call meant, and wasted 
no time in getting up the steps, and gaining the deck. 

The first man I saw was Captain Peterson, without a coat, and in slip- 
pers, looking long and. earnestly over the starboard quarter rail, a spvglass 
in his hand, and his face rather more troubled than when he attempted a 
serious tune from the bowels of his beloved accordion. I did not have time 
to bid him good-morning, and to ask if he was well, and had enjoyed a good 
night’s sleep, for the second mate yelled to me, — 

“ Here > y° u Thom, up you go, and rieve the main-royal studding-sail hal- 
yards. Be lively about it.” 

I jumped for the shrouds, went up like a cat, and, as I climbed over the top, 
ancf glanced to the windward, I saw what the trouble was. About two 
miles off our weather quarter was a topsail schooner, with every rag set, 
edging down toward us, and her black hull, and long, tapering, rakish 
masts, bright copper, and immense mainsail, looked a little suspicious in 
that quarter of the globe. 


On Land and Sea. 


31 


That bad boy, Lewey, who was at work on the top-gallant studding-sail 
gear, whispered to me, — 

“ Dat one P irate ’ or sIaver > an d, if he takes us, ve ship wid ’em, sure and 
make de old man valk he plank vid his blasted old music grunter’under his 

arm,” which would have been an unpleasant task for the captain if nleasincr 
to us. r & 

I had no time to rebuke that bad boy, but went aloft, and rove the ^ear 
and the sail was hoisted, and the yards were checked in, just so that e & very 
stitch of canvas would draw, and the vessel kept off' of her course two 
points, to make a free wind, the best sailing position for the Admittance, 
and then we waited, with old Chips at the wheel, to see if we could run 
away from the mysterious stranger. 

The old man paced the deck with a troubled face, but he was clear grit, 
for he told the mate to get our two six pounders all ready, and to load them 
with shot, nails, and iron bolts. The old men-of-wars’ men took charge of 
the guns, but did not swear that they would sink the ship before they 
would surrender, as I had always read was the custom of gallant tars in a 
like emergency. 

We hove the log, and found that we were going seven knots an hour, and 
that the stranger was gaining on us, and no wonder, for it was just the kind 
of wind that suited him, and, although the Admittance was the fastest ship 
I ever sailed in, we were no match for that low, black, topsail schooner, and, 
as she edged away for us, there was a flash, a boom, and a shot skipped 
alongside of us, and threw the spray on deck. 

The mysterious stranger had spoken, and in a tone that we could well urn 
derstand. He had business with us of an urgent nature, and, if we were 
not disposed to “ heave to,” he would remind us that he was armed, and 
could compel us to do so, provided we did not show a clean pair of heels. 
Could we do so ? That was a question we were not able to answer at pres- 
ent. We needed a stiff gale to get away, while the wind was light, and the 
sea smooth, bad for us, but favorable for the schooner. 



PART SECOND. 

GAMMING WITH A SLAVER. — WHAT WAS WANTED. — WATER FOR GOLD. 

— A SICKENING SIGHT AND SMELL. — A MATE WHO DID NOT KNOW. 

— ON THE PASSAGE. — A GALE. — THE DOCTOR GROANS AND YELLS 
WORSE THAN EVER, AND LEWEY EXPERIMENTS WITH HIM, AND THE 
RESULT IS SUCCESSFUL. — OFF CAPE HORN. — A LONELY ISLAND, AND 
A SAD DEATH. — LEWEY’S POULTRY YARD. 

' | 'HE shot from the schooner had struck the water about an eighth of 
-*■ a cable’s-length from our weather beam, and the spray had floated in the 
air, and some of it landed on our deck, a circumstance that awakened all of 
the Gaulic ardor of Lewey, who wanted to jump on the rail, and give three 
cheers, but Mr. Prentice looked at him, and made a motion with his foot, 
which was quite significant. But the French lad revenged himself by mak- 
ing disrespectful gestures behind the officer’s back, and imitated the old 
man by playing on an imaginary accordion, all of which made the boys 
laugh when no one was watching them. 



On Land a?id Sea. 


33 


“ Get up a couple of vhips on de fore and maintopsail yards, Mr. Pren- 
tice,” the master said. “ Give de canvas a good vetting down, and see if 
she von’t go a little faster through the vater.” 

“ Ay, ay, sir,” was the cheerful response, but I could tell by the face of 
the mate that he looked upon the order as useless, for the schooner was 
just walking up to us, and a very pretty sight she presented, with her im- 
mense spread of canvas, raking spars, and hug** square sail at the foremast, 
and weather topmast studding-sail, and little top-gallant sail, about as large 
as our mizzen royal. As she plunged forward, and rolled, and settled down 
by the stern, she showed copper that was as bright as gold, and the bone at 
her cutwater was milk white. 

We saw no one on deck except a man who was clothed in white linen, 
and had a red silk sash around his waist. He was smoking a cigar, the 
captain told the mate, and once in a while would cross to the lee side of his 
vessel, and take a good, square look at us, as cool and unconcerned as 
though he had been on the quarter-deck of a man-of-war, and had five hun- 
dred men to do his bidding. In fact, the gentleman in white must have 
smiled when he saw us rigging whips to wet down the sails, for the old man 
turned to Mr. Cushing (our boy passenger, who had got out a double-bar- 
reled shot gun, and loaded it with extra charges, in his anxiety, and then 
did not dare to fire it off), and said, — 

“ By dunder, but de feller is laughin’ at us. I dink he is a Yankee arter 
all,” and Mr. Cushing, who had just recovered from his seasickness, took a 
look through the spyglass, and said he was a white man, at any rate, and 
that he would be alongside in half an hour’s time, which remark made Cap- 
tain Peterson bang the telescope on the monkey-rail, and say, — 

“ Den, by dunder, I ’ll fight him, if he vants fight,” and I think he would 
have done so, for the Danes have plenty of pluck, and the old man was no 
exception to the general rule. I never saw any one who did frighten him, 
except that bad boy, Lewey, one night at Monterey, and no wonder, for 
even I was alarmed on the occasion, — for fear I should get a taste of rope’s 
end for our practical joke on the Mexicans and foreigners present at an 
entertainment. 

All at once the top gallant forecastle of the schooner was crowded with 
men, swarthy, black fellows, with red caps and straw hats, sashes around 
their waists, and long knives in their belts, and then up to the foremast 
head, so that we could see the emblem, floated the Spanish flag, and a sec* 
ond shot fell alongside of us, very near our lower studding-sail boom, which 
was guyed out, and the sail set. 


34 


On Land and Sea. 


“ A slaver, by dunder ! ” the captain said. “ In vid de studding-sails. 
He vants vater, I knows, and if he don’t vant dat, he is after grub, and vill 
pay for it.” 

We in with the studding-sails on a run, hauled up the mainsail, backed 
the maintop-sail, and awaited the approach of the first vessel we had seen 
we could not run away from. 

“JUst as I thought,” growled English Jack, the grumbler. “There a’n’t 
to be no fightin’ after all. What is this bloody old hooker good for, any 
way ? ” 

As he would have growled ten times worse had there been hard knocks, 
no one paid much attention to him. We calmly waited for the stranger to 
range up alongside. Then the man who was dressed in white linen waved one 
of his hands, there was the shrill whistle of the boatswain’s pipes, and in an 
instant the foretop sail was thrown aback; the square sail lowered, the fore 
and main sheets eased off, and the jib hauled to the windward, and the clip- 
per lay about half a cable’s length from us, bowing and rolling, and showing 
her bright copper, while some twenty men on the forecastle leaned over the 
rail, and looked at us with as much curiosity as we regarded them. 

“ Ship ahoy,” came from the man in white, who stood near the main rig- 
ging of the clipper, and, as he spoke, removed a cigar from his lips, and 
blew a cloud of smoke toward us. 

“ Schooner ahoy,” was Captain Peterson’s answer, from our quarter- 
deck. 

“Where are you from?” asked the man in white. 

“ Boston ; forty-one days out. Vot schooner is dat ? ” 

The man with the white shirt, and white linen trousers, again sent a 
cloud of smoke in our direction, as he answered, deliberately, and very 
carelessly, — 

“This is the Jenny, of Cuba,” and he smiled, as though he knew that he 
could change names as easily as he could light a fresh cigar, or shift his 
flags. 

“ Vot is your cargo ? ” the old man demanded, “ and vare is you from ? ” 

“ Our cargo is a miscellaneous one, and we are last from the coast of 
Africa, thirteen days out,” was the answer, with a laugh. 

“ Veil, vot does you vant of me dat you fires at my ship ? ” thundered 
the old man, who began to get mad, as he thought of the loss of time, being 
outsailed, and threatened. 

“ Oh, I sent a shot after you [to make you ‘ heave to.’ We did not aim 
very close, as we did not want to harm you. The fact of it is, your vessel 


35 


On Land and Sea. 


sails so well that we feared we should not overhaul you. Nice ship that of 
yours, captain, and a fast one. It is not every vessel that could give us 
such a tug as you have done. If we had had a ten-knot breeze we should 
have been some hours coming up to you.” 

This little bit of flattery pleased the old man, and his face relaxed its 
scowl of disgust, as he answered, — 

“ De ship sails veil enough, I suppose ; but vot does you vant of me? ” 

“ We want a cask of water, captain. We have been becalmed ten days, 
and our stock of fresh water is running short. You will let us have a cask, 
captain ? ” 

“ Not by a blanked sight,” was the old man’s blunt rejoinder. “ Ve has a 
long passage afore us, and 1 has no vater to spare.” 

Chips, who was always thirsty, and whose eyes glistened at the mention 
of water, uttered a groan as the slaver made his demand, and then a smile 
stole over his face at the captain’s answer, and flat refusal. 

“ Oh, yes, you will let us have a cask, captain,” the slaver said, as he 
lighted a fresh cigar. “ We fear that we shall need it before we reach 
Cuba, and a market, and it may be the means of saving many lives. Come 
on board, and let us talk the matter over. I would not ask you to take the 
trouble, but, the fact of it is, an English sloop-of-war put in an appearance 
on the coast, and we had to slip our cable, and put to sea, leaving our boats 
on the beach, and on the sea. You will honor us with a visit, captain ? ” 

“ No, sir, I vill not do it,” our master answered. “ I must be on my vay 
to California. It is a long distance from here.” 

The slaver did not appear annoyed at the refusal. He smoked on unruf- 
fled, and, after his cigar was well lighted, removed it from his mouth, and 
said, — 

“ Captain, I have four Spanish doubloons in my hand, a nice box of Ha- 
vana cigars in the cabin, and a bottle of the best champagne you ever 
drank, and all that I ask in return for them is a cask o* fresh water, and I 
mean to have it. Be kind enough to come on board, if you please,” the 
last words a little threatening. 

This was in 1842 remember, when slavers were on the ocean in large 
numbers, well manned, and with the fastest vessels that could be built, arm- 
ed, and ready to use guns and cutlasses if occasion required. It was usual 
to run on the first signs of danger, but, if running was not available, fight- 
ing was looked to as a last resort, and sometimes successfully. If a slaver 
wanted provisions, water, spars or canvas, the first merchant ship that was 
spoken furnished every thing required, and sometimes the articles were paid 


36 


On Land and Sea. 


for, and oftener they were not, but there were few words spoken when one 
of the sea rovers, and dealers in black birds, expressed a wish for certain 
kind of stores. 

Captain Peterson knew all this much better than I did at the time, and 
he was also aware that he would stand no show with the schooner in a 
fight. He was sure that the cask of water must go, either by purchase, or 
by force, and he hesitated but for a moment, as he saw two port holes care- 
lessly opened on the lee side of the schooner’s bulwarks, and the muzzles 
of two brass nine-pounders were exposed to view, not in the way of threat- 
ening, by any means, but simply as a reminder that there were twenty-five 
desperate ruffians all ready to man those guns if the captain should wave 
one of his small hands, and merely wink to the boatswain to pipe the crew 
for action, or boarding. We were in a trap, and must do the best we 
could. 

All those / things the old man thought of, and saw, and then he sighed, 
and ground his teeth together, as he turned to Mr. Prentice, and said, — 

“ Clear away de starboard quarter boat, and get it alongside, and put a 
crew of four of de boys in it, dose vot know how to row, and den get a 
tackle up over de main hatch, and hoist up von of de casks of vater, and 
put a sling around it, so dat ve can tow it to de schooner. Blank him, he 
’ll have de vater at any rate, and ve might as veil make him pay for it.” 

We lowered the quarter boat, — the one that I was afterward appointed 
coxswain of, built expressly for the surf of California, light, broad of beam, 
buoyant, sharp at both ends, and managed by a steering oar, or rudder, ac- 
cording to service, and rowlocks for four oars. We had two of those kind 
of boats, and I had charge of one, and Tom Butler the other, and we had to 
keep them in first-class order, all the time we were on the coast, carrying 
passengers, and trading people from shore to ship, and return. 

The boat was hauled alongside, the steps adjusted, the man ropes secured, 
and four of us boys were ordered into her, and, to my delight, I found that 
I was assigned to the after oar, Lewey the next one, Tom the third, and 
Harry the bow, to fend off, throw the painter, and make fast when we came 
alongside. 

“ I tells you vot it is,” Lewey whispered, as we took our places, under the 
direction of Mr. Prentice, and waited for the old man to titivate in the cabin, = 
“ I know how de skipper could make dat old son-of-a-gun, de slaver, get - 
away quick, right off.” 

“ How ? ” we all asked, and put our heads together, which caused the 
chief mate to grow suspicious, for he said, — 


On Land and Sea. 


37 


“None of your deviltry, boys, unless you want a job aloft when you 
return.” 

“ De old man he frighten ’em dis way,” whispered Lewey. “ He take 
his accordion vid him. and he play one two tunes, and away de slaver go, 
and he neber stop till he drop anchor in Havana.” 

We all roared, and this made the mate so curious that he wanted to 
know what the fun was about, but we did not dare to tell him, and just at 
this moment the old man came down the steps, with a short blue jacket, 
blue trousers, white shirt, and a white beaver hat, the pride and glory of his 
heart, and never worn except on great occasions, and during all the voyage 
that hat played a conspicuous parton more than one occasion. It was the 
first time Lewey had seen the hat, and was so astonished he freely kicked 
my shins under the thwarts, and whispered softly in French, — 

“ Sacre nom de Dieu ; regardez vous son chapeau.” 

As far as I could understand that bad Lewey meant in English, “ Good 
Lord, just look at the old man’s hat,” and I nearly strangled to keep from 
laughing. 

Mr. Cushing had received permission to accompany the captain, snif- 
fing in the air Havana cigars, and choice vintages of champagne, and, as 
the two dignitaries took their seats in the stern, we shoved off, dipped our 
oars in the water, and, with good, sweeping strokes, headed for the slaver. 
As we neared the clipper, the boatswain’s whistle sounded, steps were 
thrown over the side, clean, white man-ropes were made ready, and a per- 
son, whom we supposed the first officer, came to the gangway, a dark-skin- 
ned ruffian, with a profusion of hair on face and head, and every appear- 
ance of being a Spaniard, as far as looks were concerned. 

“ Vay enough,” growled the old man, as we shot alongside, tossed our 
oars, and let them fall on Harry’s back, while he was leaning forward to 
fend off, and a grim smile passed over the captain’s face, as he said, — 

“ None of your blanked monkey tricks here, now I tells you. Stay in de 
boat all of you.” 

The dark pirate swung the man-ropes, the captain took two steps, and 
was over the rail, and young Cushing followed him, while black eyes were re- 
garding us from various parts of the schooner, and, as we scrutinized them 
in return, we saw men from the United States, England, Spain, Germany, 
and one Frenchman, who chatted with Lewey in so rapid a manner, that 
the words flashed over their heads like chain lightning around the horizon, 
on a hot summer evening, and I found that I could not understand one 
word in twenty which they uttered* 


38 


On Lci7id and Sea. 


The Frenchman said that they had two hundred and ten black birds in 
the hold, and were compelled to leave the coast in a hurry, because an 
English man-of-war had been dogging the schooner for a month, and they 
had run out of the harbor one dark night, and got off the coast, and then 
been in the doledrums for eight days or more, and had not made ten knots 1 
progress, nor seen a cloud, or had a rain squall, and, as they left the Afri- 
can shore short of water, in consequence of hurrying out of port most un- 
expectedly, they feared they would lose some of their cargo unless good 
luck was with them. The Frenchman further stated that it was an easy 
life he was living, that all the men liked it, and, if they landed the cargo 
safely, he would get three hundred dollars for four months 1 work. He said 
all the sailors were partial to the business, and the only thing they dreaded 
was capture by an English man-of-war. The American cruisers, he re- 
marked, did not bother them much, unless affairs were too publicly con 
ducted, as the American naval officers were rather favorable to slavery than 
otherwise.' 

While Lewey and the French sailor were conversing, and many of the 
crew were throwing in a word when occasion required, in various tongues, 

1 went up the steps, and looked on the deck, as white as sand and holy- 
stones could make it, with all the brass work so bright that you could see 
your face in it. I gave one long sniff, and dropped back into the boat, 
held my nose, and could only ejaculate, — 

“Good Heaven, what a smell ! ” and then all the slaver’s crew laughed, 
and said that it was their private perfumery, and they rather liked it after 
they had got used to it, and that it did not require much time to do that. 

Once more I mounted the steps, and glanced around. The officer of the 
deck, the Spanish-looking pirate, told me, in his native tongue, to come 
over the rail, and peep down the hold, and see the cargo. As the old man 
and the captain of the schooner were in the cabin, drinking wine, and 
smoking, I accepted the invitation in spite of the smell, curiosity being 
more powerful than the stench. 

The fore and after hatches were off, but there were iron gratings over the 
openings, so that the blacks could not make a sudden rush for the deck, 
and throw the crew overboard, or murder them in a dozen different ways. 
The steam and stench that came up those hatchways were so terrible that 
I could only give a glance, and saw that the unhappy slaves were all seated, 
chained, handcuffed, and crowded together so that there was not an inch of 
spare room, as the negroes were dovetailed together, and when one swayed 
by the motion of the vessel, the others were also obliged to do the same, or 


On Land and Sea. 


39 


feel the rough grating of the iron rods that passed through their shackles, 
and prevented them from tearing each other in their rage and despair. 

I again held my nose, and looked down, but the eyes of the negroes met 
mine in a mute appeal for water and air. I could endure no more, and, 
gagging, and sick at the stomach, I retreated to the boat. For a week after 
I would taste that terrible, sickening, human smell, and even my clothes 
were impregnated with the stench, or appeared to be. 

But, boy like, I could not withstand the temptation to take another sur- 
vey, and, as I glanced over the rail, I saw the mate smoking his cigar, and 
looking as careless and indifferent, as if he had a cargo of sheep, instead of 
human beings, in the hold. 

“ Senor pilote,” I said, in the best Spanish I could command, on the im- 
pulse of the moment, “how many slaves have you lost since you left the 
coast ? ” 

“Quien sabe,” was the answer, with a smile, and a shrug of his shoul- 
ders, and a cloud of cigar smoke from his mouth. 

“ When do you expect to reach Cuba ? ” I continued, nothing daunted by 
his know-nothingism. 

“ Quien sabe,” was the answer, and another shrug of his shoulders, and 
more smoke. 

“ How many slaves will die before you get into port ? ” I continued. 

“ No lo se,” was the answer, and the man turned away, and walked aft, 
for who could tell what sufferings the negroes would have to endure before 
the schooner dropped anchor in port? 

Lewey wanted to ask a few questions of the mate, but, before he had a 
chance to do so, our ship lowered a cask of water into the sea, and Mr. 
Prentice hailed, and told us to come alongside, and tow it to the schooner, 
which we proceeded to do, while the crew of the slaver got up a tackle 
around the mainmast head of their vessel, and were all ready to sling and 
hoist in the water, when we arrived alongside. 

It was a slow pull to tow a three-hundred-gallon cask, but we accomplish- 
ed the task, even before the old man had left the cabin. The slaver’s crew 
hoisted in the water, and secured it on deck, and, by the time the) had ac- 
complished the job, our captain and Mr. Cushing made their appearance, 
looking as though they had not spent a disagreeable hour. The old man 
handed me a box of cigars to put in the stern-sheetS of the boat, and, while 
he was having a few last words with the master of the slaver, I had a good, 
fair look at the latter. 

He was a young fellow, not more than thirty years of age, light complex- 


40 


On Land and Sea. 


ion, a pleasant face, delicate mustache, thin lips, and a look about his eyes 
that denoted a raging devil when there was occasion to show temper. He 
was short and muscular, and had a hand as delicate, but brown, as some 
ladies. The bosom of his white shirt was covered with embroidery, and in 
the centre gleamed a magnificent diamond, as large as a filbert, while the 
red sash that he wore around his waist, to keep in place his spotless linen 
trousers, was of the softest and finest Canton silk, with fringe at each end 
at least ten inches in length. Take him all in all he would have answered 
very well for Byron’s pirate, the “ mildest-mannered man that ever scuttled 
ship, or cut a throat.” 

“ Well, captain,” said the slaver* as he extended his hand at parting, “ I 
owe you many thanks for your kindness. I hope we shall meet some time 
in Boston, and, with a good dinner, talk over this fortunate visit. I am a 
a native of old Massachusetts, and a good State it is, but rather fanatical 
in some things, and slavery is one of them.” 

The old man did not reply, but shook hands, and came toward the gang 
way. I don’t know whether he had given slavery a single thought, but 1 
suppose he looked upon it as a necessary evil, as most ship captains did in 
those days, when the slave power was very strong in the United States and 
elsewhere. 

The captain stepped into the boat, and the Spanish mate looked over the 
rail, and grinned at me, and said, — 

“ Buenos dias marinero Americano.” 

“ Buenos dias, senor pilote,” I answered, while the old man looked at me, 
and then at the Spanish mate, in wondering astonishment. 

“ Au revoir, mon ami,” said the member of the slaver’s crew who hailed 
from France, addressing Lewey. 

“ Au revoir,” responded Lewey, and then added, “ Belle depeche,” which 
meant, I think, “ Good riddance to you, and your ill-smelling craft.” 

“Shove off,” cried the old man, “or some of dese boys vill be speaking 
de African lingo next,” but he did not look very much displeased as we 
pulled on board, hoisted up the boat, and secured it, while the ship was 
kept on her course, with braces checked in a little, just enough to enable 
us to carry a foretop-mast studding-sail, for we had struck the southeast 
trades quite early, and they came fresh from the Arctic regions, ladened 
with cool air, and bringing a long, regular sea, that met our bows like a 
spile-driver, and sprinkled many a hogshead of water on the deck, and wash- 
ed aft to the mainmast, filling the lee scuppers full to the wash-boards. 

The slaver changed her course, making a track, and stood to the northerd 


On Land a7id Sea. 


4i 


and westerd, with all sail set, and her huge square canvas spread to catch 
every breeze, and the last we saw of the captain of the schooner he was 
smoking a cigar, and waving his broad-brimmed Panama hat in acknowl- 
edgment of the old man’s salute. Whether the slaver ever run his cargo 
into port I never knew, but he certainly did command the handsomest and 
fleetest vessel that I met on that cruise, so probably was successful. 

Of course the visit to the stranger formed the topic of conversation for 
many a day, and that night, in the first watch, Lewey and I stole forward, 
and for one bell regaled the crew with a minute account of what we had 
seen, and then English Jack swore that he would run away at the first port 
at which we anchored, and then make the best of his way to Cuba, and ship 
on a slaver, as they were all “ plum-puddingers.” I asked him if they used 
the stench as sauce, or to give the crew an appetite, and he said that he had 
rather be on a slaver at any time, than on a hide-drougher like the Admit- 
tance, where there was no rum, and no fun, and just work all day, and all 
night, and no watch and watch, such as slavers enjoyed. 

Then the grumbler, to relieve his mind, and feelings at the same time, 
volunteered to sing a song, and, as I had heard so much of sailor’s melodi- 
ous voices, I was delighted, and thought that he would favor us with some 
heroic ballad of the sea, but my disgust was extreme, when, in tones that 
were like the rasping of a saw, and with neither tune nor time, he roared 
out, — 

“As I was kissing the daughter so fair, 

Who should come in but her blanked old mother, 

Caught me in her daughter’s lap, 

Slapped my face, and shouted murder. 

Chorus. — “ Tow row-row, Paddy will you now, 

Take me while I ’m in the humor, 

That ’s just now, — tow-row-row. 

“ As I was tripping down the stairs, 

Who should I meet but her blanked old father, 

With a brace of pistols in his hand, 

To shoot the man that kissed his daughter. 

CHORUS. — “Tow'-row-row, Paddy will you now', 

Take me while I ’m in the humor, 

That ’s just now, — tow row-row,” 


42 


On Land and Sea. 


Delicacy compels me to state that I have had to change some of the 
words, as they would not read well in print, and might prevent their being 
set to music, and sung in the pleasant boudoirs of the land, or at some mu- 
sical festival, where all the critics of the country were assembled, to render 
judgment on the exclusive programme that was spread before them. 

The night watch joined in the chorus with vim, and the singing stirred 
Mr. Prentice up to the fact that his boys were missing from the main hatch. 
He sent the third mate after us, and he led us to the quarter-deck by the 
lap of the ear, and we had to walk in the lee waist during the remainder of 
the watch, as a punishment for our disobeying orders. But I had heard 
a sea song, and my ambition was satisfied for the time. I afterward 
listened to better efforts, and some really good ballads, but my first experi- 
ence was a sad failure. 

While we were running down the trades the discovery was made that our 
maintopsail yard was badly decayed at the slings, and that it was not safe 
to venture around Cape Horn with it in that condition, as it would be cer- 
tain to give way during some gale. The old man, Mr. Prentice, and Chips 
went aloft, and held a consultation over the spar, and decided that it must 
come down, and be replaced by a new one, and the next morning all hands 
were kept at work to send the old yard to the deck, and fit a new one, with 
all the iron work, and other necessary gear. The captain was in his ele- 
ment. He bossed the carpenter, the mate, and all hands, and would even . 
have bossed me, but I had learned a lesson, and kept out of his way when 
he was on deck. However, the master understood his business, and at 
eight bells in the afternoon the new spar was in place, the topsail bent, and 
set, and the decks cleared up for the night, and one watch sent below. 
That was the only spar we had to change during the passage, as far as de- ;■ 
cay was concerned, but the lower rigging was not what it should have been, ) 
and only good care, and lots of tar, kept it in place until the voyage was ; 
ended. 

We now began to make preparations for Cape Horn. The north star 
sank out of sight, the southern cross appeared on the horizon, and a few . 
Magellan clouds were discerned. Schools of porpoises played around the 
bow of the ship, and the old man used to go out on the martingale, and dart 
irons at the fish, and fasten to them, but the rapid motion of the vessel al- 
ways ture out the harpoon, and the captain would come in on deck, and 
growl at his bad luck; but one day he drove an iron clear through a por- 
poise, and it appeared to be clinched, or bent, on the opposite side. As the 
ship was not going more than six knots an hour, we run the prize up out 


[ 


On Land and Sea. 


43 


of water, got a bowline over its tail, and then hoisted it in on deck, and a 
mighty proud man the captain was for the rest of the day. So happy that 
he told the steward to give the people some of the meat for supper, and to 
let us have a sea-pie the next day, while the same night the steward made 
fritters for the cabin table, mixed with flour, and the brains of the fish. I 
did n’t think they were very good, for that bad boy, Lewey, stole two of 
them from the galley, and gave me one, and had they not been stolen I 
don’t think I should have cared much for them, for they tasted soggy and 
brainy. I told my chum if he must steal to take something worthy of his 
great talent. He said that he took all that he could lay his hands on, but 
that some boys were never satisfied, and I had better do my own stealing 
in the future. This frightened me so much that I apologized, and then 
shook hands with the French lad, to prove that I did not hold any animosi- 
ty toward him. The same night, to show that he could be generous and 
forgiving, like the noble-hearted son of France that he was, he abstracted a 
quart of dried-apple sauce from the galley, and shared the plunder with me, 
in the middle watch. This time I did not rebuke him, as I should have 
done, for my good words and example made no’impression on him. But 
the apple sauce was delicious, and the old man scolded the steward at table 
for not making more, so that he and his passenger and mates could have a 
taste all round. The third officer did not get as much as a smell, as he had 
to eat last, and take the leavings, if there were any. 

One forenoon, when we were in latitude about 30 deg. south, English 
Jack and I were sent aloft to sew on a mat to the foot of the fore top-gallant 
sail, where it chaffed against the foretop-mast stays. We stood on the top- 
sail yard at work, Jack sewing, and grumbling, as usual, when all at once he 
stopped his labor, and his eyes grew large and greedy, as he said, — 

“ May the devil fly away with me if there is n't a big school of sperm 
whales off our weather bow, and not a single son-of-a-gun of a blubber- 
hunter in sight. Just my blanked luck.” 

Jack had been in a spouter, and knew the various species of whales, so 
I was sure he was correct. The wind was light, and we were not making 
less than four knots an hour, and, as the fish were not more than two 
cable’s-lengths from the vessel, from my elevated perch I had a fine chance 
to see them. 

“There ’s a school of sperm whales off the weather bow, sir,” Jack cried, 
hailing the deck. 

“ Well, keep on with your work, and they won’t hurt you,” was Mr. Pren- 
tice’s reply, showing how much a merchant sailor cares for such things, 


44 


On Land and Sea. 


while, had we been a whaler, the officers and crew would have become fran- 
tic with delight at the bright prospect befcre them. 

We did make a pretense of doing the work we had been sent aloft to 
perform, but at the same time we paid more attention to the monsters than 
sewing on the mat. The sight was, indeed, one to watch with interest. 
There were about twenty whales in the school, and one of them was an old 
bull, a massive fellow, which Jack said would “cut in ” all of eighty barrels, 
at least, and that he should like to be fastened to him, with a good boat’s 
crew at his back. He would make the “old sojer” soon spout blood, and 
“turn him up” in less than half an hour, all of which I believed, as I did 
not know how difficult it is to kill a sperm whale, especially a fighting one, 
that wages war with flukes and teeth, and crazed with rage and pain. 

Some of the females had calves by their sides, as we could tell by the 
tiny spouts, and the way they sported around their mothers, and the interest 
the latter took in their offspring, was as wonderful as it was to see the huge 
monsters stand on their heads, and wave their flukes back and forth, as 
delicately as a lady waves her fan at an evening’s entertainment, when the 
air is close. Once in a while one, more circusly inclined than the others, 
would breech, throwing most of his form out of water, and sending up spray 
and foam many fathoms high, and then another, to show that he could do 
even better than that, would make a mighty effort, and out of the water go 
full length, and when he came down we could hear the concussion quite 
plainly. Then the old bull, as though astonished at the noise and tumult, 
would thrust his huge, square head out of the sea, two fathoms long, or 
more, whirl around, to get a view in all directions, and see that no one was 
approaching. Even from our elevated position, we could get a glimpse of 
the little eyes of the whale, and were satisfied that it would have been diffi- 
cult for a boat to pull on him, and escaped detection, small as the eyes really 
were. 

The animals, or fishes, just as you please to call them, did not appear to 
be disturbed at the near approach of the vessel, or to care for us. They 
played and gamboled around while we were close to them, but at last we 
heard a rifle shot from the quarter-deck, for the old man, who was an excel- 
lent marksman, had been unable to resist the temptation, and planted a ball 
in the old bull’s head. We could almost hear it strike, we thought, then, as 
if by magic, the massive jaw sunk out of sight, and, in a few second’s time, 
there was not a whale to be seen. Every one had disappeared below the 
surface of the ocean, and when they came up again, half an hour afterward, 
they were far away to the windward, and going at the rate of ten knots an 


On Land and Sea. 


45 


hour. That was the last we saw r of sperm whales until we were in the wa- 
ters of the Pacific Ocean, near the line. 

The next day we raised a sail ahead, and gained o» her all the forenoon. 
The old man was anxious to compare longitude with some one, as he was a 
little doubtful of his chronometer, the latter and his lunar observations dis- 
agreeing. He was desirous of seeing which was correct. We did not 
make any additional sail, for we had all that we could carry, with the wind 
about one point free, and the way we walked toward the stranger gladdened 
every heart. When about two miles astern of the fellow, he hoisted Eng- 
lish colors, put up his helm, and edged away, as though he did not want to 
speak us. We saw that the vessel was a whaler, for she had three boats on 
her port cranes, and we wondered at the lack of courtesy, as a whaler will 
chase a vessel all day for the sake of a gam. We showed our American 
colors. The stranger responded by hoisting the stars and stripes, but still 
edged away from us, and then the old' man got mad, and that was not a dif- 
ficult task when he was crossed. 

“Take a small pull at de vedder braces, Mr. Prentice,” the captain said. 
“ Ve vill see if he runs away from us some more.” 

We checked in the yards, and then the Admittance jumped, while the 
whaler, finding that he could not run away from us, luffed up, backed his 
maintopsail, and awaited our approach. He knew that we were a merchant 
ship, and had no time for gamming, and, perhaps, that was the reason he 
did not desire to speak us. 

“ Vot ship is dat ? ” hailed Captain Peterson, with an air that seemed to 
say, T am a crack Indiaman, arid you are nothing but a blubber-hunter, 
any way.” 

“The Amethyst, of New Bedford, seventy four days out. What ship is 
that, pray ? ” 

“ The Admittance, of Boston, fifty-one days out.” 

We had backed our maintopsail, and luffed up to the windward of the 
whaler, for we were going too fast to have a long chat under full sail. 

“ Vot is your longitude ? ” roared the old man, who cared more for that 
than he did for compliments, just at that time. 

“ Forty-six, seventeen, west,” was the answer. “ What is yours ?” 

“ Forty-six,” making a difference of some miles between them, and the 
joke of the matter was, neither would know for some time which was right, 
and both would fear being wrong, and they could worry the heavenly 
bodies every night, until the truth was developed, or by sighting some well, 
known point of land, where the latitude arid longitude were well defined. 


4 6 


On Land and Sea. 


The Amethyst had touched at St. Catherines for fresh provisions, and 
was bound to the Sandwich Islands, picking up sperm whales by the way 
if they could be found. 

“ There is another whale ship just ahead of us,” the New-Bedford man 
said. “ It is the Arab, bound around the Cape. You will have hard work 
to overhaul her, as she is a fast vessel.” 

“ Ve vill try,” our captain answered, and waved his trumpet, but just then 
he happened to think of something, and said, “ I run through a school of 
sperm vhales yesterday forenoon. There vas a dozen or twenty of dem. 
Thought you vould like to know.” 

“ Sperm whales ? ” in tones of anxiety from the whaleman. 

“ Yes, and big ones, too.” 

“ Put your helm hard up,” the whaleman said, to the man at the wheel. 
“ Square in your cross-jack yard. Haul that jib-sheet flat aft. I ? m off for 
those whales. If you speak the Arab don’t mention the matter, if you 
please.” 

The skipper of the Amethyst waved his speaking trumpet, his ship turn- 
ed short on her heel, and away she went on another tack, in search of oil 
and wealth, while we resumed our course, hoisted a foretop-mast studding- 
sail, checked in the yards a little, bounded along, and at eight bells, or 
twelve noon, we raised the Arab from the foretop-mast head, and at eight 
bells in the afternoon we passed her, a mile to the windward, for we were 
making over eleven knots per hour at the time, and the Arab about seven, 
but we had a press of sail, even to the main royal, and drawing like the 
little pony that it was, while the whaler was content with topsails, and main- 
top-gallant sail. Her captain was in no hurry. Time was no object to him. 
We exchanged signals, and at dark the New-Bedford ship was far astern, 
and that was the last we saw of her. 

The nights commenced to grow cool, and the days longer. It was now 
the nineteenth day of December, and I began to think of Christmas, and 
stockings, and nice presents, but feared that 1 should come short. How I 
envied the people in Boston, as I imagined the cheer that they would en- 
joy, and once, when I confided to Lewey that if I was at home I should 
have lots of mince pies, and cake, and a glass of wine for dinner, he bade 
me be comforted, for, if there was any good grub for the captain, he would 
see that we had a share, even if he had to foreswear Catholicy, and embrace 
Methodism, under the spiritual guidance of the black doctor, and while I 
told the bad boy that it was disgraceful to steal, yet I promised to aid him 
in his designs on the cook, unless the old man came down with plum duff, 


On Land and Sea. 


47 


and a sea-pie, the latter we hoped to be made from one of the eight pigs in 
the pen on the fore hatch. 

I may as well say that the captain did the handsome thing, but there were 
no plums in our duff. However, Lewey obtained a handful of raisins while 
the steward was picking them, for the cabin pudding, in the galley, by pre- 
tending that the old man was calling for a light for his cigar. While the 
steward was absent the raisins disappeared, and, at dinner, we would take 
a mouthful of duff and two plums, and imagined that we were having a roy- 
al feast. If the master had suspected us we should have remembered that 
Christmas Day for a long time to come. But Lewey was very skillful, and 
very adroit in his manipulations, having studied the art of legerdemain at 
school, and could do many curious things with packs of cards, handker- 
chiefs, balance plates on sticks, and make them whirl like an experienced 
: juggler, while he could keep six round balls of wood, which the carpenter 
had turned for him, in the air all the time, and never let one fall to the deck 
ji unless the ship gave a sudden pitch, or heavy roll. He was a very valuable 
j boy to have for a chum, or messmate, especially as he was honest in his 
i! dividends of the spoils, and took most of the risk. 

About this time Mr. Cushing, the passenger, finding time irksome in the 
cabin, with the stiff dignity of the old man to contend with, and no one to 
talk to but the mates, naturally desired a little more life and jollity, so, dur- 
ing the dog watches, between the hours of six and eight o’clock in the even- 
ing, he would slip down in the steerage, and have a nice time skylarking 
with the boys, or those whose watch was below. The captain did not dis- 
cover it for some weeks, and then he put a stop to the fun. But while the 
visits lasted we found them very entertaining and instructive. He gave us 
the latitude and longitude of the ship each day, all the petty gossip of the 
cabin, the old man’s peculiarities, the mates’ notions, and all about our voy- 

I age. 

It was then that we learned, for the first time, that there was a large ship 
on the coast of California, belonging to the same owners as the Admit- 
tance, — Messrs. Appleton & Hooper, — and that she had to be filled with 
hides before we could load for home. We had got to collect for this vessel, 
— the Barnstable, Captain Hatch, — and it was stated that she could carry 
j forty thousand skins, full as many as our ship, and that, unless cattle were 
plenty and fat, we should be a long time on the coast. All of this was far 
from pleasant news, for we supposed we had no one but ourselves to look 
j after, and that the Mexicans would struggle among themselves to see how 
quick they could load us. Lewey suggested that, in case hides did not 


48 


On Land and Sea. 


come to us as fast as desirable, he would borrow one of the ship’s old mus- 
kets, —terrible looking things, and awful dangerous work to those who 
handled them, — go on shore, and shoot a few thousand bullocks a day, 
just as a matter of sport, to help the voyage along. We all applauded that 
idea very much, and determined to broach the subject as soon as we got on 
the coast, if the old man would listen to us, and give us powder and lead. 

Then Mr. Cushing would state what he intended to do as soon as we ar- 
rived. He said that there was a man on the coast, named Henry Melius, 
the owner’s supercargo, who did all the buying and selling, and who had 
grown rich. He would be pushed aside in the course of a few months, and 
perhaps he (Mr. Cushing) would have full charge, and would then boss the 
captain just as he pleased, and it was probable he might marry some rich 
man’s daughter, and take his wife on board to keep him company, while 
cruising up and down the coast. 

We thought that would be pleasant, and rather encouraged the idea. We 
looked upon the young fellow as a great man, whom it was well to keep on 
good terms with, for he might promote our fortunes as well as his own, if 
he had a chance. Alas for all our bright hopes. When we arrived at Cali- 
fornia, we found that Mr. Melius (the same gentleman who went out with 
Mr. Dana in the Pilgrim) was not the kind of person to yield his position 
in behalf of a clerk, and poor Cushing’s dreams were over. He had much 
trouble with the supercargo, the captain, and every one he came in contact 
with, and at last was sent home as useless. 

But we really enjoyed the young man’s society, for he gave us something 
to talk and think about. He was a rattle brained fellow, and made things 
lively in the steerage, while he had the chance. Once in a while he would 
smuggle into our quarters small quantities of soft-tack, taken from the cab- 
in pantry. He was not a bad boy naturally like Lewey, but had no desire 
to play second fiddle to any one, hence his trouble on sea and shore. He 
had been sent to “ grow up with the country,” but he grew faster than Cali- 
fornia, and, as he could not speak Spanish, and would not learn it, he did 
not aid Mr. Melius much, or Mr. Frederick Teschemacher, another assis- 
tant supercargo, whom we found on the coast (he was for several years 
mayor of San Francisco when the latter became a city), and a very pleasant 
young gentleman we boys found him, for he was always polite, and saved 
us youngsters as much trouble as possible, when boating, or up the creeks, 
in the neighborhood of Yerba Buena, as San Francisco was formerly 
called. 

During all the passage the boys in the steerage had been terribly annoy- 


On Land and Sea. 


49 


ed with the groans, moans, and shrieks of anguish of the cook. He would 
sit in his galley until near ten o’clock at night, eating salt horse, or cabin 
fare, just as he could get it, humming softly to himself religious hymns, or 
plantation melodies, and then turn in, and his conscience, or indigestion, 
would trouble him badly. We always thought that the family he was sup- 
posed to have murdered appeared to him, and stuck pins in him, for he was 
usually grateful if a stick of wood hit him fairly on the head, and awoke 
him, or a tin pot of salt water was correctly aimed in the dark. But we 
were nearly frightened out of our wits sometimes in the middle watch be- 
low, to wake up out of a sound sleep, and hear the doctor yell, — 

“ O de Lord, de debil hab got me now, sure ! Oh, let go, and hab mer- 
cy on dis old nigger, and he neber do so no more.” 

As I have said, the doctor was very superstitious, and had rather a suspi- 
cious eye toward the carpenter, one of the best old fellows that ever lived, 
and who would not have injured a mouse. But he was a Swede, and a 
Swede is half Fin, in the opinion of some mariners, and I have known 
black cooks to refuse to sail in a vessel on which they knew a Norwegian 
had shipped. Our doctor always had his suspicions of Chips, because, as 
he contended, a Fin could bring all manner of disasters on us, if he was so 
disposed. He could cause head winds, calms, gales, and rarise the deuse 
generally, unless he had his own way, and the cook related several in- 
stances of the magical workings, and the power of certain foreign sailors he 
had known, all of which we boys listened to, and half believed. But we 
had no fear of o'd Chips, for he was always our friend, and drank our water, 
and told us stories that were amusing, and seldom indecent. 

But at last we determined to do something that would frighten the doctor 
out of the steerage, and give us a quiet life for a while, at least. One even- 
ing, when Cushing was with us, he made a suggestion which delighted the 
heart of that bad boy, Lewey. It was nothing less than to personate a 
ghost, a frightful-looking monster, that would make the doctor turn white 
with fear, and leave us in peace. 

Lewey claimed the part of ghost at once, and agreed to get up the most 
devilish-looking mask that any boy had ever seen, and all that he required 
Mr Cushing to furnish was a white sheet from the cabin, and a bit of phos- 
phorus from the medicine chest. The things were promised, and the French 
lad set to work, in the dog watches below. He made from some thick, 
cotton-duck canvas a mask, with monstrous ears, and then, from a paint box 
which he owned, and used occasionally to produce a representation that he 
would label a ship, or a man, although it was difficult to tell one from the 


5o 


On Land and Sea. 


other, marked out the most terrible eyes, mouth, beard, and eyebrows, 
while, with spun-yarn, he arranged springs, that connected with the ears, 
and could thus work the same, causing them to flap up and down in a man- 
ner that reminded one of the ears of a mule, when flies are plentiful, and 
the weather is warm. There were four of us in the secret, Cushing, Lewey, 
Tom Butler, and myself, for we did not dare to let the rest of the boys 
know of our enterprise for fear they would inadvertently let fall some words 
that would betray us to the doctor, or the officers. 

After a few days the preparations were completed, and we were all ready 
on the night of the twenty-third of December. The larboard watch was on 
deck from eight to twelve, and our watch be’ow from twelve till four in the 
morning. It was blowing a gale at the time, and we were under close-reef- 
ed topsails, foresail, foretop-mast stay-sail, and main spencer, and the ship 
was just humming along, with the wind free, and our course southwest by 
south, in latitude 43 deg., heading almost directly for the northerly part of 
Staten Island. It was a good night for our experiment, as the ship groan- 
ed, the timbers creaked, and the wind howled through the rigging, as if to 
warn us of the trouble we were to encounter before we got to the other side 
of the land. The doctor was so happy, under the influence of the gale, that 
he sat a long time in his galley, toasted his shins, ate at intervals, sang his 
usual songs, and then went to the steerage, and turned in. 

By eight bells the doctor was on the full tide of his night-mare. He was 
groaning, and yelling, and calling upon the Lord to save him, when we went 
below. Instead of treating him unkindly we let him yell, and waited for 
Mr. Cushing to make his appearance. He came at last, gliding down the 
steps, and reported that the old man was snug in his berth, snoring fearful- 
ly, and that the second mate was aft, looking to the helmsman, to see that 
he steered small, and that we could go on with our circus as soon as we 
pleased. He produced the sheet, and a small bottle of phosphorus, while 
Lewey commenced operations. He put on the mask, arranged the sheet, 
and then rubbed the fiery compound on the canvas, until he looked as un- 
earthly as a disgusted human being can look, and not be a devil. 

As we knew that no ordinary noise, or kicks, or cuffs, could awaken the 
doctor, Cushing proposed to light a match, hold it to his nose, and thought 
that it would start him, while I was to stand at the foot of the steps, and 
groan in an agonizing sort of way, and keep watch that the second mate did 
not come near us, and interfere in our business, as he might do. 

“ All veddy,” whispered Lewey, as we put on the last of the phosphorus. 
I must confess that the boy did not look inviting as he flapped his mon- 


On Land and Sea. 


5i 


strous artificial ears, and opened his fiery mouth, and exposed a tongue, six 
inches long, and red as paint could make it. 

“ Afore de Lord dis nigger neber do it agin,” groaned the cook, and just 
then Mr. Cushing struck a match, and held it to the doctor’s nose. 

He gasped, struggled, groaned, kicked, and muttered, half-asleep, — 

“ De debble got me now. I smell de sulphur, sure,” and, rolling over in 
his bunk, his astonished eyes fell upon the apparition by his side. 

Lewey flapped his ears, and groaned, as he exhibited his flaming tongue, 
and then Cushing and I uttered the most discordant of sounds. 

“ O de Lord, now the debble hab me,” and, with a yell that could be 
heard on deck, the doctor bounded from his berth, tore up the steps, rush- 
ed forward, and fell on his knees, in the midst of the startled watch, assem- 
bled around the windlass. 

Mr. Davidson heard the scream, and saw the doctor dart forward. He 
followed him to see what the row was all about, and then Mr. Cushing took 
advantage of the second mate’s absence to seize the sheet, rush up the 
steps, and gained his stateroom, while Lewey stowed the mask under his 
mattress, and then bolted into his berth, and I followed his example. Har- 
ry and Chips had not awakened during the noise, so there was no fear of 
their betraying us. 

“Say, boys,” cried Tom, whose watch was on deck, coming half way 
down the steps, “ Peter is up, and wants to know what the devil the noise is 
all about. Keep mum. The doctor is in a fit.” 

The boys sometimes very irreverently called Captain Peterson “ Peter,” . 
but never when he was near enough to hear it, it is useless to say. 

It was blowing so hard we could not hear the old man’s voice, but, after a 
while, we saw some one coming down the steps, with a lantern in his hand, 
and in an instant Lewey began to snore in French, and I gave a very good 
specimen of American hard sleeping. From one corner of my eyes I saw 
that the visitor was the captain. He flashed the lantern in my face, and 
there observed nothing but angelic peace, and sweet innocence. He look- 
ed a little suspicious, as though disposed to doubt my external signs of 
goodness. However, at length he moved away, thank fortune,, or I should 
have laughed in his face in a moment. Then he turned the light of the 
lantern on that bad Lewey, and no wonder he hesitated as to whether the 
boy was as innocent as he seemed. At last, satisfied that no one could 
snore as the French lad was snoring, and be awake, he looked over Harry 
and Chips, then stood, and thought of the matter, holding on by an iron 
stanchion. 


On Land and Sea. 


52 


“ I vonder,” he mused, “ if dem boys has been up to some of der tricks. 
No, I guess not. Dey all sleep sound. De cook must be crazy. I ’ll lam 
him if he vakes me up again,” and up the steps the old man went, then 
walked the deck for half an hour, and, after the doctor had revived, by the 
aid of a bucket of cold salt water, the captain cross-questioned him, but 
could learn nothing, except that the devil had appeared to him, tried to car- 
ry him off, and that he believed the ship was haunted ; all of which so dis- 
gusted the old man, that he swore that he would rope’s .end the negro if he 
made another such row in the night, or at any other time, and then the doc- 
tor asked permission to sleep in his galley for a while, which was granted, 
and we had no more midnight cries during the passage, for, if the doctor cut 
up rough in his galley, the mate would order a bucket of water to be dashed 
through the cracks of the door, and that would bring the old fellow to his 
senses. 

Our secret was well kept, and the next day the mask was pitched over- 
board, and thus all trace of our work was lost. 

On Sunday, December 25, we did not wish each other a “ Merry Christ- 
mas,” for the weather was quite cold, a thick fog was all around us, the 
decks were wet and slippery, and there was only a slight breeze blowing, 
but it was fair, and we made some progress. Our latitude, by dead reckon- 
ing, was 47 deg. south, and our longitude 62 deg. west. At noon, as it was 
still foggy, the captain ordered a cast of the’deep sea lead, or “dip’sey lead,” 
as the sailors call it for short. The ship was brought up to the wind, the 
maintopsail thrown aback, so that the vessel would remain stationary, and 
then one of the men took his station on the lee cat-head, with the lead and \ 
half a dozen fathoms of line in his hands. 

“ All ready,” cried the captain from the quarter-deck, to the mate. 

“ All ready, sir,” answered Mr. Prentice, and took his station in the miz- 
zen-rigging, with a snatch block over his head, so that the line could run 
out freely. 

“ Heave,” the captain shouted. 

“ Heave,” yelled the mate. 

V Watch, O watch, and heave,” bellowed the sailor on the cat-head, and 
he pitched the heavy, thirty pounds of lead forward, as far as he could, ■ 
and let the line fall from his hands. 

“Watch, O watch,” shrieked English Jack in the main-chains, as he let i 
go the few flakes of line which he held, and then grumbled at such lubberly j 
work, when there was no bottom to be found at a depth of five thousand j 
fathoms, as he declared. 


On Land and Sea . 


53 


“Watch, O watch,” mildly cried the third mate, in the mizzen-chains, for 
the old man was looking at him, and it would not answer to be boisterous in 
his presence. 

They the mate held the line, up and down, for a moment, raised it once 
or twice, and made a motion to the second mate to haul in. 

“Bottom, sir, at eighty fathoms,” Mr. Prentice reported, and then all 
hands clapped on to the line, and stamped along the deck with it, while one 
man coiled it down. 

If any one thinks it is easy to haul in a deep-sea lead, with eighty fath- 
oms of line attached, when it is cold and freezing weather, let him try it, 
and then he will alter his opinion. It is about as disagreeable work as a 
sailor can be called upon to perform, and every one on a ship is glad after 
the duty is over, unless it is when you are homeward bound, and near the 
American coast. 

In the afternoon the sun came out, and then all hands commenced to get 
the ship ready to weather Cape Horn. The flying jib-boom was run in, 
the royal yards sent down, — the boys had that job, — the fore and mizzen 
topgallant-yards followed, and then down came the long and tapering spars, 
royal-masts and topgallant masts being one piece, and the new cotton-duck 
topsails were got ready to bend the next day, and the heavy foresail and 
mainsail were overhauled and examined. We had work enough for the 
crew of a man-of-war, instead of a merchant-man. 

Mighty tired we all were when we knocked off labor at four bells, or six 
o’clock, and got our suppers, and that night a gale sprung up from the 
southerd and westerd, and we had to be called during the middle watch, 
and close reef the topsails, and afterward furl everything except the close- 
reefed maintop-sail, the foresail, and the foretopmast-staysail. Oh, there ’s 
lots of fun going to sea, but I have never yet been able to discover the 
point of the joke, especially in cold, wet weather, and in the vicinity of 
Cape Horn. 

The next day the two quarter boats and pinnace were taken in on the 
poop deck, and securely lashed, and now farewell to ail who fall overboard, 
for there is no hope for them. The boats are not available for use under 
an hour’s hard work, and what man could live in such a sea as we encoun* 
tered day after day, dressed in heavy clothing, and thick boots on his feet? 
For a few hours we squeezed the rigging a little harder than usual while 
going aloft, and then became as careless as ever, and did not give the mat- 
ter a thought. 

December 30 we sighted the bleak and inhospitable shore of Staten 


54 


On Land and Sea. 


Island, about twenty miles distant. We were to the eastward of it, between 
the Falkland Islands and Staten Island, and for a while it did seem as 
though we should get around Cape Horn without much delay, for the ship 
was going along at the rate of twelve knots an hour, under single-reefed 
topsails, but, as we drew toward the southern end of the island, the wind 
headed us, then died away to a calm, and all the afternoon we were close to 
the land, and rolled and pitched until it seemed as though the motion of the 
ship would jerk our heads off, and some of the boys and men were seasick. 

We could see on the island mountains covered with snow, great ravines 
filled with ice, rough, ragged rocks, on which the surf beat white with foam, 
and, while I was at the wheel, because the ship did not have steerageway, 
Captain Peterson came aft to take his bearings for the night, and said, — 

“Veil, Thom, how would you like to land there?” 

“Very much, sir,” I answered. 

“Veil, you von't, not this trip,” and the old man smiled, and I smiled in 
return, and when I mentioned the incident to Lewey he said that he would 
like to have the captain on shore all alone, with plenty of snowballs near at 
hand, and then he winked in a mysterious manner, and I laughed, as I 
thought how surprised the master would be if a good hard snowball should 
hit his head, and how Lewey would howl when the old man took him across 
his knee. 

About eight bells, or four o’clock in the afternoon, we noticed at the edge 
of the horizon, in the southwest, a black cloud, not larger, it appeared, than 
the one Hamlet saw. The captain watched it carefully, then the mates, 
then the men, and of course the boys. All knew what it meant, or at least 
that portion of the crew who had been around Cape Horn, and were accus- 
tomed to its pranks, and the course of its gales. 

In ten minutes the cloud was the size of the State House. In twenty it 
seemed about as large as Boston Common, and then the voice of the cap- ' 
tain was heard, hard and strong, — 

“ Knock off vork, Mr. Prentice, and muster all hands to take in sail. 
Haul down de jib, and furl it, and see that extra gaskets are passed around 
de sail and boom. Brail up de spanker, and haul up de mainsail, and stow 
it securely. Let the topsail yards down on de caps, and haul out de reef- 
tackles. Up vith de foresail, lively, men, and put a reef in it. Lay aloft, 
and stow de mainsail, and put three reefs in de maintopsail. You boys, up 
you go, and put two reefs in de mizzen-top sail, and then furl it snug, so * 
that it von’t blow avay.” 

Here was plenty of work, but we went at it with a will. Even Mr. Cush- 


On Land and Sea. 


55 


ing and the steward were called upon to help us lads on the mizzen-top-sail 
yard. As we ran up the rigging I turned my head to look at the dark cloud 
in the southwest. It had grown wonderfully in the last few minutes, but 
there was not a breath of air stirring aloft, and I fancied that I could hear 
the roaring of the surf on the rock-bound coast of the island. All around 
us were Cape-Horn pigeons, and huge, majestic albatrosses, which came 

- close to us, and then set their expanded wings, and examined each person 
on deck, or aloft, their sharp, piercing eyes seeing the most minute particle 
of'grease on the surface of the water, while away off in the distance I could 
hear the hoarse calling of a penguin, as it made its way toward the land, to 
rest for the night, and escape from the coming gale. The Cape pigeons 
screamed, and seemed elated at the prospect of a stiff breeze, for it is little 
they care for wind, or snow, or sleet. They can defy all, and never seem to 
tire while on the wing, night or day, diving for a bit of refuse matter from 
the ship, and then skirting off before the breeze to eat the morsel in peace 
if able to escape pursuit from envious companions. 

All this I saw at a glance, but I had no time for poetry or day dreams. 
The old mail had one eye in our direction, and another on the main yard, 
and his voice was heard all over the ship. 1 got to one of the ear-rings, 

- with Lewey at the dog’s-ear, and Tom Butler and Harry were at the other, 
and the way we gathered up the. sail, and put in the two reefs, and then 
furled it, in a ship-shaps manner, would have done honor to the crew of a 
ten-gun brig-of-war, the meanest thing a man could sail in in those days. 
There are none of them now afloat. Most of them went to the bottom. 

We lay down, after we had finished our work, and were rewarded by a 
grim smile from the old man, and a “ Veil done, boys,’-’ a compliment that 
we appreciated, for he would flatter no one, and never praise unless it was 
deserved, all the time I was with him. But of late, as he has grown in 
years, although his heart is as young as ever, he has repeatedly said that I 
was the best boy that he ever saw. I fear that his intellect is not as strong 
as it was forty years ago, unless his memory has failed, for when he alludes 
to my early boyhood days, I try to blush, and turn the conversation. Ah, 
old shipmate and friend, many a gam have we had together in past years, 

| on shore, but I doubt if ever we knew how contented we ought to have 
I been on that California expedition, when we all grumbled so much, and 
j wished ourselves home ten thousand times a week. 

“ Up there, lads, and put a close reef in the foretop sail, and then furl it,” 
i cried Mr. Prentice, and away we went, with two able seamen -to look after 
i the ear-rings, and, by the time we had finished, a streak of cold ,tir struck 


56 


On Land and Sea. 


us, and a crop of rain fell. I glanced down on deck, and saw Chips disap- 
pear in the steerage. He had scented water, and gone after his tin quart 
pet. 

“ Put a reef in the foresail before you come down,” roared the mate, and 
we piled on the yard, and gathered up the sail, and then there was another 
little puff of cold air, and more drops of rain. 

“Be lively, lads,” the mate called out from the deck. “This south- 
wester is coming butt-end foremost.” 

We worked like sailors and men, and then came a strong blast of wind, 
cold as the Antarctic regions could furnish for that time of year, and a few 
flakes of snow fell on our hands, and some hait-stones followed the snow, 
and the ship began to feel the influence of the breeze, to yield her sides 
to the steady pressure, and to forge slowly through the water, heading to 
the southerd and eastercl. We put in the reef, and got on deck just as the 
hail-stones began to rattle about our heads, and on our hands, bare and un- 
protected, for you can’t work aloft with mittens, as every finger has to be a 
fish-hook to hold on with, or overboard, or on deck, you go, either drowned, 
or broken bones being your fate. 

We boarded the foretack, and hauled aft the sheet, and then got a good 
pull on the weather braces, to support the yards, and, when we had finish- 
ed all of the hard work, i . was four bells, or six o’clock, and plenty of day- 
light, for it was not dark until after nine in the latitude in which we were at 
that time of year. 

Then the gale struck us fairly, and made everything surge in its fury. 
Hail, snow, rain, and wind poured down upon and almost blinded us. -We 
had to get under the shelter of the bulwarks, and could not even look to the 
windward. The ship had too much sail, and I feared the canvas that was 
already spread would tear, away from the bolt-ropes, but it was new and 
stout, and stood the test very well, indeed, better than was expected. 

“ Man the weather main brace,” roared the old man. He saw that the 
ship was overweighted, but did not dare to start tack or sheet, for the 
sails would have flapped to rags before we could have secured them. 

He waved his hand to the man at the wheel to*put the helm hard up, and, 
as the main topsail was rounded in, the ship fell off, like a pilot boat in a 
smooth sea, and we were racing before the wind, and huge waves roaring 
after us, and threatening to come on board, fill the decks with water, and 
poop the ship. The Admittance was a splendid sea-going craft, and she 
slipped from under the billows like a duck, and away we went, due north, 
until we were once more under the lee of Staten Island, and then, very 


On Land and Sea. 


57 


carefully, the ship was rounded to, and we were again on the wind. Still 
it was blowing a fearful gale, and the foresail had to be taken in, and furl- 
ed, and the old man gave the order, — 

“ Clew up de foresail, Mr. Prentice, and be careful how you start de 
tack and sheet, or it vill get avay from you. Better take de lee clew first, 
and smother de sail vith de buntlines afore you let go de fore-tack.” 

“ Ay, ay, sir,” was the response, although the old man could not have 
hedrd it. As the chief mate was a good sailor he mustered all hands to 
the clewlines and buntlines, then eased off the lee sheet very carefully. 
Although the canvas flapped, and the foreyard quivered, up went the sail, 
was held in place by the clewline and buntlines, and then the fore-tack was 
started, and we gathered it in, and the job was done, without so much as 
the breaking of a rope-yarn. 

But, although the sail was clewed up, it was not furled. It was all to the 
leeward, and slatting furiously, so a dozen hands were ordered aloft to se- 
cure it. We found this no easy job, for the wind pinned us to the rigging, 
and the cruel hail beat on our faces, and cut our hands, and the stiff, frozen 
canvas tore off our finger nails, and mauled us with the bolt-ropes. The 
second mate was in the bunt with Old Jones, the third mate and Scotch Jack 
were next to them, and they worked as men have to work in a gale up aloft. 
I was on the weather yard-arm, wishing that I was at home, and in bed. I 
did not have much to do where I was, but helped to pass a strong gasket, 
and then turned my back to the blast, and watched the cape pigeons, and 
the albatross, as they sailed near us upon wings that were outstretched, and 
immovable, caring nothing for the hail or the gale, and shrieking their de- 
light at every fresh squall of snow and sleet that showered down upon our 
heads, and wet us through and through. 

But we conquered at last, and, as we reached the deck, English Jack, the 
grumbler, said, with an oath that would not read nicely, — 

“ Well, this is the last time I ever set mv foot on salt water, and I ’ll mur- 
der the man who ever asks me to ship for another voyage around Cape 
Horn. This is the bloodiest old hooker that ever sailed the ocean, and not 
a drop of grog to keep out the cold. The last ship I was fn we had the 
main-brace spliced every time we reefed topsails, but here a man might die, 
and not get a smell of rum, and blank me if I don’t cut at the first port.” 

He would have said more, but was called away to help put fresh lashings 
on the spars, the galley, the pig-pen, and other objects that were likely to 
be moved by the seas coming on board, and it was not until seven bells, or 
half-past seven o’clock, that the mate proclaimed everything all right, and 


58 


On Land and Sea. 


told the doctor to give the people their supper, and glad enough we were to 
get it, for we were cold and hungry, tired and wet, bleeding and faint. 

The ship was now “ lying to,” as easily as a pilot boat, under the lee of 
the island, and the seas did not break over her as much as when we were 
exposed to the whole sweep of the South Atlantic Ocean, and so the night 
wore away; but still it blowed heavily, and the next morning there was no 
abatement of the gale. A sail was sighted to the windward, coming down 
on us like a race-horse, a big lump of a ship, with close-reefed maintopsail, 
and reefed foresail and fore-top*mast-stay sail. She was a noble sight as 
she buried her nose in the ocean, clear up to the night-leads, taking on 
board tons of water at every plunge, and then settling her stern down until 
it was lost to view, and a mighty wave would seem to threaten to sink the 
vessel out of sight. She appeared to slide along quite easily, just escaping 
the avalanche of water, and the next minute show her bright copper, and 
nearly her keel, as she rolled from side to side. 

Two men were at the wheel. We could see them very plainly as the 
ship passed, about a cable’s-length from us, directly astern, and we read on 
the quarter-boards the name Edward Everett, the very vessel I afterward 
owned an interest in, and in which I went to California the second time, in 
1849. She was homeward bound, freighted with copper ore, from Chili, 
and her master was making her walk as sh^ had never walked before, since 
her keel was laid. She was loaded very deep, and steered wild. The men 
at the wheel had discarded their jackets, and stood in their shirt sleeves, 
cold as it was, and I had no doubt but that they found their task a warm 
one. The least carelessness of the helmsmen would have caused the ship 
to broach to, and then away would have gone her masts, and the ship to the 
bottom. 

The captain of the Edward Everett read our name on the stern, and 
waved his hand to us, and Captain Peterson returned the salute, and mut- 
tered, — 

“ By dunder, he had better mind his eve, or down he goes,” but no acci- 
dent happened to the noble ship, as she arrived safe and sound, and report- 
ed us near Cape Horn, in a gale of wind, making good weather of it. 

Now we had watch and watch, because we could not be kept at work on 
deck, but the mate’s vivid imagination found something for us to do. He 
had the men whose turn it was to be on duty down in the steerage, and set 
us to work ripping up old sails, and patching good ones, and doing many 
things which we could do under shelter. This was to keep the sailors oc- 
cupied, and prevent them from grumbling at the weather, the ship, and the 


On Land and Sc' a. 


59 


grub. Idle men are always unhappy, and busy ones have no time to think 
of hard fate and fare. 

But at last the gale abated, and we made sail, only to be again driven 
back to the shelter of the island, but we gained at last, mile by mile, and 
one morning we were near the Diego Islands, off the very pit of Cape Horn. 
On one of them I have a brother buried, he having lost his life while seal 
hunting, and was interred on that bleak, barren, and inhospitable spot. 
The poor fellow was injured while turning over a surf boat, one of the 
thole-pins striking his side, near the heart, causing a wound which occa- 
sioned his deadi, as he bled internally, and there w?s no help for him with- 
in two thousand miles. His relatives sent out grave-stones, with name and 
age cut on them, by an uncle, the master of a sealing schooner, from Ston- 
ington, Connecticut, but wemever heard if the stones were set up, for the 
uncle died in a South-Atnerican port, on the passage out, and the rest of 
the officers seemed to have lost all interest in the matter. If they were 
erected over the remains, it is probable that time, and the warring elements, 
have destroyed all traces of the marble tablets. Perhaps some retired seal- 
er, who has passed a few months on the largest of the Diegos, hunting for 
seals, may know something of the subject and give me the information so 
much desired. 

I looked long and earnestly at the bleak spot, and thought of my brother’s 
death, and, while Captain Peterson was examining the island by the aid of 
the ship’s glass, I was called aft to coil up some ropes, and asked him if he 
could see any signs of grave-stones. 

“ Vot de deuse do you mean, Thom ? ” he demanded, looking at me in 
astonishment. 

“Because sir, I have a brother buried on the island, and his parents sent 
out grave-stones, and I did n’t know but you could see them.” 

The old man did not speak, but he took a long and earnest look at the 
shore, and then said, in a very gentle tone, — 

“ No, Thom, I don’t see de stones. Poor fellow, to be shelved dare, vere 
de storm is raging from one year’s end to de other. Ve can’t all be buried 
vere ve vish, but your brother sleeps just as quiet dare as he vould in Mount 
Auburn, vid roses at his head, and a veeping villow at his feet, and ven de 
Judgment Day comes along, he von’t be forgot out here any more den he 
vould at home. Now go and get a squilgee, and scrape de voter off de side 
of de quarter-deck, and be lively about it.” 

I have no doubt but that he gave the order, in his usual stern tone, to di- 
vert my thoughts from the dead, and, perhaps, he did, for I had no recol- 


6o 


On Land and Sea . 


lection of the lost brother, he having died when I was too young to remem- 
ber him. At any rate, the squilgee was used with effect, and all that forenoon, 
while we were becalmed, I had frequent glimpses of the island, and I was 
not sorry when, at twelve bells, a light breeze sprung up from the south- 
east, and we were soon running before the wind, with squared yards, and, 
as the breeze increased, the old man and the rest of us grew more and more 
anxious, for fear that it would chop around to the southwest, and head us 
off our course. 

“ Never mind de dinner, Mr. Prentice,” cried the captain. “ Set all hands 
to vork making sail. Out vid de studding sails, alow and aloft. Be lively, 
for ve must gain all that ve can vid this vind.” 

The ship was headed due northwest, and, as we set the topmast studding- 
sails, we found that we were likely to have lively work before night, for the 
wind continued to gradually increase, and the ship to tear through the wa- 
ter at the rate of ten knots an hour. 

“ Never mind dat lower studding-sail, Mr. Prentice',” the old man said. 
“ Ve vill have all the vind ve vants afore long, for the barometer is falling 
fast.” 

We did have a fresh gale, and it carried us clear around the Cape, away 
into 40 deg. south, before it left us. We were just twenty- one days in at- 
tempting to get into the Pacific from the Atlantic, with bad weather all the 
time. 

As soon as the cold and storms would permit we sent up our tall, slender 
spars, crossed royal, and topgallant yards, and once more all hands were on 
deck during the long afternoons. We had the usual number of heavy 
rains, when the carpenter caught gallons of water, and thanked Heaven for 
his good luck, and then we struck the southern trades, and, with all sail 
spread, alow and aloft, we glided quietly toward the line, and in the three 
weeks of pleasant weather, like paradise, we changed sails, painted the ship, 
inside and out, masts and spars, tarred down, and put the vessel in the most 
perfect order for port. Chips, under the old man’s direction, built a store- 
room in the steerage, with shelves and counters, to accommodate the Mexi- 
can people who would come on board to trade, and all hands were kept 
busy from morning until night. 

About this time Lewey conceived a brilliant idea. Every evening a doz. 
en or more boobies would alight on our yards, and go to sleep, and the 
French lad became convinced that the birds could be domesticated, and 
made useful. I agreed to assist him in the experiment, and each night we 
made a raid on the slumbering boobies, capturing quite a number, and cou- 




On Land and Sea. 


6 1 




fined them in the empty hen-coops stowed in the long-boat, with the mate’s 
consent, although we had to promise that he should have one of the fattest 
for the cabin table, as soon as the fowls were in a proper state to kill and 
dress, and Mr. Prentice’s black eyes danced with fun, as he exacted the 
conditions from us, while we expected to have fresh poultry in our mess 
for the remainder of the passage. How our experiment ended I will tell in 
the next chapter, for we did not reap the benefits we anticipated, after all 
our labor and pains to improve the booby stork by close feeding and gener- 
ous treatment. For once we were baffled by a stupid lot of sea-birds, that 
did n’t know when they were well off, and in what Christian hands they 
had fallen. 









' 




“ THROW DEM OVERBOARD.” 


PART THIRD. 

LEWEY AND I TRY THE POULTRY TRADE, BUT THE CAPTAIN BREAKS UP 
THE BUSINESS. — A RAIN-STORM. — THE TREE AT SEA. — ARRIVAL AT 
MONTEREY. — THE U. S. SLOOP-OF-WAR DALE. — SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. 
— LIBERTY ON SHORE. — HOW SUNDAY WAS PASSED. — DRUNKEN MEN, 
AND FIGHTING SAILORS. 

L EWEY and I caught our boobies in the first watch, and, in spite of 
some fierce resistance, hard pecks and scratches with powerful beaks 
and claws, generally brought our prizes down, and exhibited them to the 
mate, who would gravely feel of their bodies, and declare that we must be 
very particular in our feeding if we hoped to fatten them before we arrived 
in port. We had ten at one time in the hen-coops, but the stupid things 
did not seem to appreciate the kindness which we evinced for them, for 
they refused to eat pilot bread or salt pork, or anything that we laid before 
them. The old doctor was very kind, and gave us scraps from his coppers, 




Ori Land and Sea. 


63 


but the boobies did not take hold with much of an appetite, and grew more 
fierce and gaunt every day, and would peck at our hands when we went near 
them, and then try to vomit, as if seasick Still the mate would laugh, and 
encourage us to persevere in our laudable pursuit. The hen-coops were in 
the long-boat, out of the way, and one day the old man, who did not know 
that we had gone into the poultry-raising business, had occasion to visit the 
launch for some purpose. He thrust in his hand to pull out a piece of can- 
vas. The next moment he uttered a yell, and a loud, emphatic word, and 
jumped more than six feet, then looked at one of his hands, rubbed it, and 
glanced over the deck to see if any one was laughing. 

Mr. Prentice and Mr. Davidson immediately went forward, and had 
something to look after in the bows, while the third mate found business in 
the steerage. Lewey and I feared that the old man would seize all the 
boobies for the cabin table, by force of arms, and our hearts sank at the 
discovery. 

“ Vot de divil is dat ? ” roared the captain, rubbing his hand, and address- 
ing his conversation to no one in particular. 

There was no answer. 

The old man poked his head into the boat, and the smell and sight al- 
most convinced him that he had struck a guano deposit of unusual richness, 
and that a fortune awaited the excavator and owner. 

“ By blank, vot is all dis ?” he asked, as the boobies pecked at him with 
one accord, and smelled far from sweet. “ Come here, somebody. Rouse 
out dem coops. Let us see vot all dis is.” 

Some of the men, trying to look sober, lifted out the coops, and the boo- 
bies stood, or squatted, before him. 

“Veil, vot one owns all dese?” the captain asked, perfectly amazed at 
the sight. 

“ No one responded. 

“ Mr. Prentice,” the old man roared, “ vere did dese come from ? ” 

“They b.long to Thom and Lewey, sir,” was the answer. 

“ And vot do dey vant to do vid dem ? ” 

“ I believe they mean to fatten them, sir, for eating,” the mate answered, 
with a grin, which the old man did not see. 

“ Veil, veil, veil, of all de blanked fools dem boys is de vorst. Dey is up 
to someding all de time. Here, you monkeys, you just pitch dem dirty 
dings overboard, and if you catch any more boobies I ’ll booby you. Dis 
ship is not in de guano trade just yet,” and the captain walked away, and 
ten minutes afterward was laughing with Mr. Cushing, and relating the 


64 


On Land and Sea, 


poultry-yard experiment with great satisfaction, for the old man did like a 
little fun, if it was not at his expense. 

We had to pitch our beloved birds overboard, and they flew off as though 
rejoiced at their escape, and did not owe us. thanks for a week’s board and 
tender feeding, but the same night some of them returned to the ship, and 
roosted on the yards as usual. The other boys wanted to know why we did 
not again make a raid, and keep on in the poultry line. 

The fact is, Frank felt a little sore at the joke Lewey, Tom, and I had 
played on him while we were near the island of Juan Fernandez. The cap- 
tain was not sure of his chronometer, and had run toward land to see which 
was correct, his lunar observations, or the instrument. We sighted the 
island one morning, just after daybreak, and shaped our course, with a fresh 
southerly breeze, to run between Masafurea and the celebrated spot where 
Robinson Crusoe resided so many years, or is supposed to have lived, and 
which all boys have an ambition to see once in their lives, especially those j 
who have read De Foe’s immortal work, and who has not perused it? But 
the author’s knowledge of navigation and seamanship was not equal to his 
imagination, for the book does not mention going around Cape Horn, or ; 
through the Straits oi Magellan, and there is no other way of reaching Juan ' 
Fernandez from this side of the land, by water, unless the Cape of Good ' 
Hope is doubled, and that is a long route, and out of the way. 

I saw the bold, rugged shores of both islands, and had a great desire to 
land, make an exploring expedition, and at breakfast expressed my ideas ^ 
quite freely. 

“ Yes,” said Lewey, “ I vould like it mine self berry much, but I don’t 
vant to ax de ole man. Dis berry mornin’, vile I vas swabbin’ down de 
quarter-deck, de capen say to de mate, * I like to stop, and get fresh grub, 1 
but I can’t unless some of de men ax me. If any von vould come aft, and 
say run in and drop anchor, I vould do it.’ ” 

Frank was below at the moment looking for his sheath knife, or some- ' 
thing else, to pass away the time, it being his watch on deck, and he prick- 
ed up his ears at the information. 

“ Do you mean to tell me that the ship would run in and come to anchor, 
if some one should ask the old man to do so? ” he demanded. 

Lewey winked at Tom and myself as he answered, in a careless tone, — 

“ Oh, yes, de papers of de ship speak all dat. You no read ’em ? By 
gar, me do, and see it all plain. But I no say nothin’. I poor French boy, ,V 
and no one mind me on Yankee ship. S’pose I American and set here and 
sa ; l by Crusoe Robinson’s home ? No, sir, niver. Parbleu.” 


65 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Then you ’ll find one person on board who will ask the old man to stop 
over for a few days, and that person is me,” Frank said, in a determined 
tone. 

“ Oh, don’t let us delay the voyage,” we all cried, and that was enough for 
Frank; He wanted to be on the opposition side, and up the steps he went, 
for the captain was on the quarter-deck, and looking at the islands through 
his spyglass. He felt quite good-natured, as he had corrected the rating of 
the chronometer, and knew to a second how much it had gained since leav- 
ing Boston, and he also found that his lunars were right, another cause of 
congratulation to a man who prided himself on his navigati®n, and the cap- 
tain seldom got left when observations of the heavenly bodies were in or- 
der. Therefore the master was all smiles, and good tempered, as Frank 
approached him, and took off his cap. 

We hurried on deck, and got to the leeward of the long-boat, to see the 
interview, for we expected it would be rich and emphatic, and were not dis- 
appointed. 

“ Veil, my lad, vot is it now? ” asked the captain, as Frank stood near 
the capstan, waitmg to be spoken to. 

“ If you please, sir, I ’d like to have you drop anchor at Juan Fernandez,” 
Frank said quite boldly. 

The old man grasped at the maintopsail halyards, and nearly dropped his 
spyglass, he was so astonished. He turned red and then white, and seem- 
ed a little confused in his upper works, as he slowly asked, — 

“ Vot did you say, my lad ? ” 

“I would like to have the ship stop at the island, sir,” but the tone was 
not quite as confident as at first, for the boy began to feel very uncomforta- 
ble. 

“ Veil, I ’m blanked ! ” the old man cried. “Vot vons tells you to come 
and ask dat ? ” 

“ Lewey, Thom, and Tom, sir, said that you ’d anchor, sir, if any one re- 
quested you to do so. They said it was in the ship s papers, but I did n t 
read ’em, sir.” 

The old man slowly took from a belaying-pin several coils -of the main- 
royal halyards, and the proceeding looked ominous for Frank. We three 
boys laughed until we had to put our heads in the long-boat,. for fear the 
captain would hear us. 

But the old man changed his mind, restored the rope to the pin, and 
merelv said, — 

“ You goes for’ard to your vork, and don’t ever come to me vid such a 


66 


On Land and Sea. 


request again. Dem boys fools you,” and, as Frank walked forward, the 
captain remarked, — 

“ Mr. Davidson, you calls dem boys up, and keeps dem on deck, and at 
vork, all de forenoon. Dey is so funny dat ve vill take some of it out of 
dem,” and the old man bolted into the cabin, and when Lewey and I came 
to take an account of stock we found that we had not made quite as much 
as we expected. 

But our punishment was of sl^prt duration. Before one bell the second 
mate told us to go below, turn in, and get some sleep, and not to have any 
more nonsense, if we knew what we were about. It is probable that the 
captain sent the orders for us to be relieved, as soon as he recovered from 
the surprise, and shock to his dignity, for the second mate would not have 
dared to take the responsibility of ordering us below unless he had re- 
ceived directions from headquarters. 

For several days we did not boast of our sell on Frank, for we did not 
see where the joke came in ; and that was the reason we received no sym- 
pathy from him when our poultry farm was broken up, and the business 
ruined. 

Next we turned our attention to a frigate or “marlin-spike ” bird, as most 
sailors call them, because their tails are like that nautical instrument, much 
used on ship-board on many occasions, from knocking a man down, to 
splicing a rope. One had hovered around us for several days, as we neared 
the line, and perched on the main-royal yard one night. A frigate bird has 
a small body, but large wings, and can out-fly anything that lives in the air. 
Its speed is like a rifle ball, rapid and untiring. It can breakfast on the 
Gallapagos Islands, and then take a little gentle exercise, and sup on the 
coast of Peru ; start the next morning, have a look at Chili, cruise around 
Juan Fernandez for a few hours, then return home, and not feel as though 
it had been a good day for flying, after all. 

The mate encouraged us to catch the frigate bird, but, after two unsuc- 
cessful attempts, we did not think it worth while to continue the pursuit, or 
waste our time, and so gave it up. 

On the seventh of February we drifted across the line, in longitude 
99 deg. west, just one hundred and three days from Boston, a quick 
passage, and such as is rarely equaled, even now. It was calm all day, and 
I should remember the date, even if I did not have Captain Peterson’s dia- 
ry to refresh my mind, for it rained from eight o’clock in the morning until 
four in the afternoon. It seems to me that I never saw such floods of wa- 
ter pour down as on that occasion. The scupper-holes could not carry it 


On Land and Sea. 


67 


off fast enough, and so it run over the planksh^ars, and even then it was six 
inches deep on deck. Old Chins was the happiest man on Doard. He 
drank all that he could hold, and then filled ten three-gallon demijonns, and 
would have used more, but the mate swore ihat he should not load the ship 
down by the stern taking in so much water. We filled half a dozen casks 
before the rain ceased. Some of us stripped, and washed from head to foot, 
the first good scrubbing since leaving Boston. Even our teeth were thor- 
oughly cleaned by the aid of castile soap, and wood ashes. Lewey, joking- 
ly, wanted to borrow my tooth-brush, but friendship has its limits, and 1 
firmly declined to yield to his request, so he used a piece of sail-cloth, a 
good substitute for bristles. Then we got all of our soiled clothing on 
deck, and washed it, and our heavy blankets, also. At this time there was 
not a breath of wind. The ship headed to all the points of the compass, 
and the yards were kept square all day. While we washed and scrubbed, 
and filled water casks, the old man kept close to his cabin, and played the 
most doleful music on his accordion, and once or twice he attempted that 
popular and well-known air (at the time) called “ Wood Up,” a quickstep, 
admirably adapted for the accordion, as it has a bugle solo, and when the 
captain struck that portion of the piece he tried to imitate a cornet; and 
broke down, and would return to the charge, time and time again, never 
despairing of final success. Lewey, who was rather inclined to be profane, 
and rarely said his prayers, like some good boys on board of the ship, 
whose names are not worth mentioning here, now grew frantic, and he knelt 
down in the scuppers, where the water was the deepest, and just prayed 
that a worse flood might come, and that it would sweep aft, and drown cap- 
tain and accordion at the same time. As he uttered his orisons in pure 
French, and no one comprehended him, except what little I did, the boy 
was not interfered with, and, if he had been understood, I think all hands 
aft would have ranged alongside of him, and shouted “Amen ” to his ap- 
peals to the throne of grace. Of all the terrible tormentors that ever were 
invented to drive nervous people frantic, a fully equipped accordion is the 
worst, even excelling the harmonious drum, in the hands of a young school- 
boy, home for a vacation. 

But while we had the flood it did not penetrate the cabin, or drown the 
old man, and at last the rain ceased, the sun came out strong and warm, 
the decks and sails were quickly dried, and we got a gentle breeze from the 
eastward. We braced up, headed north by west, and worried along until 
we took the northeast trades, in latitude 14 deg. 30 min., and, as we had 
them strong, we got all that we could stagger under. It was clew up royals, 


6S 


On Land and Sea. 


and fore and main top-gallant sails, day and night, and the taking in and 
making sail was the occasion of the first break between Captain Peterson 
and Mr. Prentice. They did not understand each other, and would not 
take the trouble to do so. Both were good men, excellent seamen, proud 
and quick tempered, so it is not to be wondered at that they failed to get 
along together. A few words of encouragement, or explanation, would 
have made them fast friends, and good shipmates. But it was not to be, 
and the Admittance was ultimately deprived of the services of the mate. I 
liked both men, so speak impartially, for each had faults, but, even at this 
late day, I can see how they might have been overcome. 

We had been informed by Mr. Cushing, before the old man put a stop to 
his visiting the steerage, that our destination was Monterey, the capital of 
California, the only port of entry on the coast, where the governor resided, 
and all the court officials. For four nights before we sighted land, the boys 
in both night watches had been kept at work, running up and down the 
rigging, furling and loosing the royals, for the weather was squally and un- 
settled. When our watch was called one night, at twelve o’clock, we went 
on deck, and found that it was dark and drizzling, and the light sails wete 
stowed. We had been on deck not more than one bell when it lightened 
up a little, and the three boys were sent aloft to loose the royals. We did 
so, and they were set. We came down on deck, thought we should find 
time for a little caulking, and, just as we closed our eyes, the breeze fresh- 
ened, and down came the royals on the caps, but we did not clew them up, 
waiting five minutes, or more, to see what the weather was likely to be. 
Findi- g that the breeze increased, Mr. Prentice ordered us to clew up, and 
lay aloft, and furl the sails. Then some of the ordinary seamen were sta- 
tioned at the top-gallant halyards, to let go if necessary. We furled the 
royals, returned to the deck, and, just as we reached it, the wind died away. 
Then who should come out of the cabin but the old man. He was always 
on the alert, and you never knew when he would make his appearance, 
night or day. He looked to the windward, sniffed a little, and after a wh le 
said, — 

“ Mr. Prentice, de royals vould help her a little.” 

“ I did not like the looks of the weather, sir, and just took them in,” was 
the reply. 

The old man sniffed some more, and then went into the cabin. The 
wind did not increase, but still looked threatening, and the mate gave no or- 
ders to make sail, for which we boys blessed him, as it is not an easy job 
to climb to t^e royal yards half a dozen times during a four-hours’ watch. 


Oa Land and Lea. 


69 


In the course of ten minutes the captain came on deck again, and this time 
he was cross. We knew that by his tones. 

“ Mr. Prentice,” he said, “vy is not de royals set?” 

“ Because, sir, I don't think it quite safe,” was the answer. 

I was at the maintop-gallant halyards, and could hear and see the chief 
actors in the quarter-deck row, but I wished with all my heart that I was 
somewhere else, out of sight of the parties, and the sound of their voices. 
But the discipline of the ship would not permit me to leave my position 
without orders, so I remained, and mentally regretted that two such noble- 
hearted men should quarrel for a trifle. 

“ Ven I tells you to make sail I vants you to do it,” the old man said, in 
an indignant tone. 

“ If you direct me to make sail, sir, while you are on deck, I shall do so, 
even if the masts go over the side ; but as long as I have charge of the 
watch I am responsible for the safety of the ship. I shall make and take in 
sail when I think it is proper. If you remain here, and assume the lisk, no 
one shall excel me in crowding the ship, but at the present time I do not 
think it desirable to give her the royals.” 

This was said by Mr. Prentice in a calm and firm tone, but the old man 
did not quite like it. It was not the style of talk to make the captain feel 
pleasant. A conciliatory word would have brought the captain down from 
his high horse in an instant. But that word was not spoken. 

“ You vill loose dem sails dis instant,” was the reply. “ Mr. Goodhue,” 
to the third mate, who had gone as far forward as the main tack to get out 
of hearing, “send dem boys up, and let dem loose de royals. I vill keep 
de vatch myself, but I vill have de ship’s duty carried on in a proper man- 
ner.” 

“ No one can say, sir, that I have not carried on the ship’s duty as a 
chief mate should, ever since we left Boston. But a 3 you want to be cap- 
tain, and chief mate also, I have no objection, only there can’t be two first 
officers on board.” 

No one had ordered me to leave my station, so I stuck to it, and heard 
all the rest of the conversation that passed. An ordinary seaman, Simple 
Davy, as we called him, went up the main-rigging, and Lewey and Frank 
forward and aft. 

“ I don’t vant two first mates, but I vants von, and dat von must be alive, 
and look arter de interests of de ship all de time. I have been mate, and I 
knows vot a mate’s duty is, and dat duty is to carry sail ven it can be done 
vid safety,” the old man said. 


70 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Then, sir, I suppose that I am off duty? ” said Mr. Prentice in a quiet 
tone, still leaning on the capstan. 

“Yes, you is off duty, and you von’t go on till you promises to do better,” 
was the reply. 

“ Very well, sir, I am willing, but I hope that as soon as we drop an- 
chor you will grant me my discharge. I can do a sailor’s duty, or a mate’s, 
and even know enough for a higher position, if the chance should offer,” 
Mr. Prentice said, and then he walked to the lee side of the deck, lighted a 
match, and smoked a cigar, quite composed, and apparently indifferent. . 

“ Sheet home main-royal,” shouted Simple Davy. 

“ Sheet home fore and mizzen royals,” cried the boys aloft, and then I 
left my station, and lent a hand to set the sails, and, when the watch had 
finished the job, the old man was still pacing the quarter-deck, like a raging 
lion, and Mr. Prentice was looking over the rail, and did not seem to be 
particularly broken up because he was off duty. The boys were constant- 
ly wishing the old man would go below, so that they could steal forward, 
and become important personages by relating to the men all that had trans- 
pired on the quarter-deck, and then have a good hour’s caulking on the 
main-hatch, or under the lee of the long-boat. 

But the old man showed no signs of retiring. He kept walking back and 
forth, and squinting to the windward ; but in less than one bell there was a 
pretty lively squall, and up went the royals again, down came the yards on 
the caps, and the ship had to be kept off her course two points, or until the 
blast was over. Once more we had to drag our tired limbs aloft to furl the 
light sails, and, when I came down on deck, the captain and Mr. Prentice 
were standing in the weather-waist, and having a pleasant chat. The former 
was spinning yarns about California, and California life, and the mate was 
laughing at some joke, just as though he had never heard it before, and 
that was the ending of the first disagreement on the quarter-deck. 

Now I know, just as well as the reader, that according to all real nautical 
writers, the captain, as soon as he had deposed Mr. Prentice, should have 
said to the third mate, — 

“Send dat boy Thom aft here. I vish to speak to him.” 

And Mr. Goodhue would have found me near the windlass, spinning a 
long yarn to the admiring tars, who were gathered around me, and that he 
shoid 1 have led me aft, by the lobe of one of my ears, and then been aston- 
ished by hearing the old man say, — 

“-Thom, I have long noticed your course on board of de ship, and I take 
pleaiiue in saying here, cn de quarter-deck, on dis dark night, just before 


On Land and Sea. 


7 1 


ve makes port, dat you is the most splendid specimen of a Christian boy 
dat I ever sees in all my life, and dat you vould die afore you vould steal, 
and dat no von ever knowed you to tell a lie. As a sailor I never saw a 
boy your equal, and now dat de chief mate is off duty I offers you his place. 
Take it, for I knows dat you is vorthyof it, Mr. Goodhue, call all hands 
aft, so dat dey can see de new chief officer, and salute him.” 

Then all hands should come aft, and give three cheers for the young 
chief mate, and swear that they ’d follow him through fire and water, and 
never grumble at his commands, and I should order a tot of grog all around, 
and then take charge of the deck, with Old Jones always near to advise me 
what to do when in a tight place. 

But, confound it, nothing of the kind occurred, and I don’t believe that 
the captain ever thought of me as an officer, or knew whether I was a 
Christian boy or not. He has since said that my actions were not exactly 
orthodox on many occasions, but the captain is getting old, and his memo- 
ry, I fear, is not as good as it was, so I won’t tell a lie by saying that I was 
put over my shipmates, as I might do very readily. I am writing a biogra- 
phy and not a romance, remember. 

But we were all pleased at the reconciliation, and went below at four 
o’clock feeling quite cheerful. The next forenoon work went on a little 
more lively than usual. About five bells we saw evidence of land, in the 
shape of a huge, red cedar-tree, roots and all, that was floating directly in 
our course, so we had to luff a little to pass it. It was an immense piece 
of timber, and was covered by sea fowl, which struggled and fought for a 
resting-place on the trunk and branches. The captain told Mr. Cushing, 
that he had no doubt plenty of fish could be caught near the floating mass, 
but that he had no time to fool away on that kind of amusement. The tree 
had probably been uprooted during a gale, and fallen into the water, or 
some very high tide had floated it from the shore where it fell. It showed 
we were near land. 

We now grew anxious for a view of California after sighting the tree, and 
on the night of the third of March, 1843, we were l n latitude 37, and lon- 
gitude 123 1-2 west, and at midnight the old man came on deck, and order- 
ed the foresail and mainsail hauled up, the flying-jib furled, and the main- 
topsail backed, and thus we remained stationary all the rest of the night, 
for the captain was certain lie had about run out his longitude, and, -on 
sounding, we found bottom at thirty fathoms, a pretty good indication that 
land was not far off, and sure enough it was, for at daybreak we saw the 
long, sandy shore, at the south of the bay of Monterey, with the white surf 


On Land and Sea. 


72 


beating on the beach, and the dark forests, and high hills, in the rear; and 
there was Point Pinos, or the Point of Pines, with its black, rugged rocks, 
and the green pine-trees extending nearly to the edge of the water, while 
off our larboard bow was the high bluff called Ano Nuevo, or New Year, 
close to Santa Cruz, where a bad surf is always raging, and which we had 
occasion to remember for many and many a day, and if curses could have 
sunk the town it would have been buried years and years ago. I am told 
that it is now a fashionable watering place. It used to be a watering place 
for us boys, but there was not much fashion about it in 1843. 

There was no work for us that forenoon, except to get the ship in apple- 
pie order for pork The anchors were already on the bows, and the chains 
bent, and a range before the windlass, but there was a dead calm, and we 
could not see the city of Monterey, for it was hidden from sight by Point 
Pinos, but we could note the curve of the bay, like a crescent, and the white 
sand, and the surf breaking on the shore, and once we noticed a horseman 
riding along the beach, driving a lot of bullocks at full gallop. 

The old man had made a good landfall, and now he fumed because the 
want of wind prevented him from getting into port. We ate our dinners 
at twelve bells, and had just finished when cat’s-paws came over the water, 
from the northeast, and away we went for the bay, and, as we drew up to- 
ward the Point of Pines, with a fresh breeze, we. saw a solitary ship lying 
at anchor in the harbor, and the American flag at her peak, and a piece of 
blue bunting on her bowsprit. 

“ A Yankee man of -war,” exclaimed every old sailor on board. 

She was a small sloop-of-war, but her name we could only guess at, as 
war-ships don’t often exchange signals with merchantmen, unless in dis- 
tress. It is not dignified enough. If a flag at the peak is shown, it is con- 
sidered sufficient honor. 

Then, as we drew further and further into the bay, we saw a Mexican en- 
sign on the side of a hill, a short distance from the Point. We had no time 
to notice more, for it was haul up|he mainsail, the foresail, furl the royals, 
and flying-jib, while fhe mate impressed upon us that we must give each 
sail a harbor furl, no ’longshoreman bungling for him on that occasion, and 
old Chips took an awful drink of water, and went to the wheel. We were 
all as active as monkeys, and every one was cheerful at the prospect of get- 
ting into port. 

The captain had mounted a white shirt, a blue suit of clothes, with short, 
round jacket, and all hands had donned clean togs, and a better looking 
crew never went into Monterey harbor thap that in the Admittance, on the 


On Land and Sea, 


73 


afternoon ot March 4, 1843, just one hundred and twenty-eight days from 
Boston. 

We braced up sharp, run past the bows of the sloop-of-war, which made 
Mr. Prentice wink both of his eyes, at what he considered disrespect to the 
navy, then luffed up sharp, hauled down the jib, pulled aft the spanker- 
sheet, rounded in on the weather-head braces, and the ship scooted up into 
the wind’s eye, hung for a moment, as though uncertain what to do, show- 
ed a disposition to make stern-way, and then down went the right-bower 
and the topsail yards at the same time, and the Admittance was at anchor 
in the harbor of Monterey. 

Although many years have passed since that eventful time, I remember 
all as if it was but yesterday, and, as we weather-bitted the chain, I heard a 
ringing blast from a couple of trumpets, and, looking toward the hill, close 
to a ravine, just ahead of us, saw an adobe fort, and a company of Mexican 
soldiers, dressed in blue cotton cloth, with red facings, being put through 
the manual by a fierce little sergeant, who yelled at his command so that lie 
could be heard all over the harbor, and his “carambas ” were hurled at the 
heads of his men on every occasion presentable, and for all extra blunders 
there were two “ carambas.” 

Lay aloft, men, and furl all three topsails at once,” cried the mate. 
“ The lads take the mizzen, the larboard watch forward, and the starboard 
to the main. Show the man of-war that we can do some things ship-shape, 
if we are light-handed.” 

And up we went, and rolled the sails on the yards, and made nice bunts, 
then stowed the topgallant-sails, mustered on the fore and main yards, and 
handed the courses, furled the jib and staysail in cloths, laid down and 
coiled up the ropes, and then a cutter from the sloop-ot-war came alongside, 
a midshipman pranced over the rail, the old man received him on the quarter- 
deck, and gave him late papers, and we learned from the crew of the cutter 
that the sloop-of-war was the Dale, of sixteen guns, Captain Downing, and 
also that California was a bloody hole any way, and not worthy of a sailor’s 
notice ; that all hands would be mighty glad when they up anchor, and went 
to a civilized place, where there were Christian articles to be obtained, such 
as rum and tobacco, and I have forgotten what the other commodities were 
at this late day. 

We learned from the man-of-war’s men that the adobe building on a ledge 
of rocks, just in front of the town, was the bloody greasers’ custom house 
and, as several persons were standing in front of it, on a platform, wav- 
ing serapas and blankets, to attract our attention, it was supposed that the 


74 


On Land and Sea. 


gentlemen had business with us, and wanted to come on board, for, wonder- 
ful as it may seem, the port officers of Monterey did not own a boat for the 
purpose of boarding vessels that traded with the people. 

The antics of the crowd at last attracted the attention of the old man, and 
he ordered the starboard quarter-boat to be lowered, and then and there 
the mate made me coxswain of it, and Tom Butler was given charge of the 
larboard one, and we held the position for many long days and weeks. We 
had to keep them clean, and in order at all times, to carry the captain, su- 
percargo, and purchasers, back and forth, from ship to shore, and shore to 
ship. As Mr. Cushing wanted to go in the boat for a change, the captain 
gave his consent, with directions to bring all on board who desired to come. 

The boat’s crew consisted of Lewey, F rank, Harry, and myself, and, as 
we pulled for the shore, we wanted to cheer, so glad were all to think that 
we were to see new faces, and hear strange voices. We sought for a land- 
ing-place, for we did not care to strike the beach, where the surf was rolling 
in, not more than two feet high, but the water looked cold, and we had on 
shoes and stockings, as the air was quite chilly, even if it was in early 
March. One of the men in front of the custom house beckoned us to come 
to a little cove just in front of the building, but the rocks looked threaten- 
ing, and we feared to stave the boat, because then we knew that we should 
catch it. 

“ Quedado marineros, venir aqui,” one man shouted, and pointed to a 
ledge of rocks, on which the waves broke very lightly, just below him. 

“ What does the old lunatic say? ” demanded Mr. Cushing. “ Why don’t 
the blasted idiots talk English, so that we can understand them ? ” 

And then Lewey, who had no sense of propriety, spoke up, and freed his 
mind. 

“ You dink you mighty smart ’cos you speak de vile English, but you no 
understand nothin’ else. Thom, you tell him vot de men say.” 

I did inform Mr. Cushing that the Mexican had pointed out a place 
where he and his gang could enter the boat, and not wet their feet. If 
there is anything a Mexican detests it is water, or to get wet. It is a very 
good fluid to drink, he thinks, or to make the grass grow, but is useless to 
him as an article to cleanse the hands, the body, or wash the face. Such a 
thing as a bath-tub was never heard of in California until the Americans 
took possession of the conntrv, an 1 there -e-e not mar." owned even t u en, 

■ ivi’.i/ition appeared in the form of wo oen. 

We backed theboat up to the rocks, and the Mexican crentlemen filed in- 
to tiie stern-sheets, and all saluted us politely with, — 


On Land and Sea. 


75 


“ Buenos dias muchachos,” and, to their delight, Lewey and I responded 
with the next Mexican interrogation, in regular line, as with us, — 

“ Como sd va,” or “ How do you do?” 

“ Where did you boys learn to speak Spanish ? ” asked a gentleman, 
whom we supposed to be a Mexican, as he was dark and thin, a man about 
forty years of age, I judged, with a slight stoop to his shoulders, dressed as 
a European, except that he had a bright-colored serapa around his neck, 
and a broad-brimmed sombrero, with a silver cord, and two little silver tas- 
sels hanging down over the rim. 

“We might retaliate, Yankee like, by asking where you learned to speak 
such good English ? ” I answered, laughing, after we had stowed our cargo 
so that it would not tumble overboard, and drown, for Mexicans have such 
a holy horror of water that they seldom learn to swim. It is the half castes 
who do the diving and swimming, when there is occasion for such perform- 
ances at the pearl fisheries. 

“ Oh, I ’m a Yankee,” was the reply. “ I have been a resident of Mon- 
terey for the past ten years or more. My name is Thomas O. Larkin, and 
I am a native of Charlestown, Massachusetts.” 

He appeared to be a little deaf, and held one of his hands back of his ear 
when he saw that you were disposed to speak to him, yet there were people 
who said that he could hear as well as any one when there was occasion to 
be alert and vigilant. He said that he owned a store in the town, and we 
afterward learned that he was considered the richest man in Monterey, and 
did the most business. I don’t suppose that there was another man in Cal- 
ifornia who performed so much, and got so little pay, for keeping the Gold- 
en State out of the hands of the English, as Mr. Thomas O. Larkin, who 
was afterward appointed United-States consul for the whole country. He 
defeated every British plot to seize California, before the Mexican war, and 
it was by his advice that American men-of-war looked into the ports every 
few months, and let the Mexicans and English agents see that we were a 
power at that time on the ocean. He was a liberal, hospitable man, and al- 
ways entertained strangers and sea captains with the best that his house af- 
forded. He had in his library a complete set of Scott’s works, and, it may 
not be believed I know, but still it is quite true, when he learned that I 
was fond of reading, lent me two or three of the works at one time, to pe- 
ruse while we cruised up and down the coast, and continued to loan the 
hooks until T hM rrn- 1 yT ' p: <••• ^ • h •=••• < vfut I v s 

cf them, will never be known, now that the an id-hearted ciu gent;ernan ;s 
dead. 


76 


On Land and Sea. 


Many the glass of wine, plate of frijoles and tortillas did he give me, 
when I was sent to his store, or house, while we were in port. He lived 
near the plaza, in the most pretentious building in Monterey, and was the 
leading American of the country, and the man whom the Mexicans always 
applied to when a government loan was desirable to suppress a revolution, 
or stir one up, and they had them quite often in California, as will be no- 
ticed by the reader if he has patience to finish my story, for, during one of 
them, Lewey and I played an important part, and did wonderful things in 
the way of scaring the Mexicans into convulsions of fear and despair, hope 
and joy. 

We were quite rejoiced to learn that one of the gentlemen in the boat 
was an American, and, as we pulled on board, he told us that trade was 
very dull on the coast, that there were more ships than hides, that the rains, 
had not been profuse, and the grass had not grown as it should have grown 
to fatten the cattle, and that he feared we would have a long sojourn on the 
coast, if we waited to fill up with hides, but that he would do the best he 
could for us, as he liked our owners, and supercargo, Mr. Henry Melius, 
who was in San Francisco, and would have to be sent for by a special 
courier, and that he could not get to Monterey for four days, at least, ride 
as hard as he would. If our captain desired a messenger could be sent at 
once. 

This was far from encouraging, but we were too delighted to get into 
port, to feel the whole weight of Mr. Larkin’s remarks, and then Lewey, 
who was a bold lad, and never abashed, asked who were the scarecrows in 
his company. The Mexicans did look a little mixed, as they were all thin, 
bilious, wrinkled, and dark featured, with big black eyes, dark hair, and 
small hands, w r ith much real estate under the finger nails, and teeth that 
were badly stained with tobacco, and had never known ihe pain of a tooth- 
brush. All were smoking, and making cigarettes from powdered tobacco, 
and the husks of corn-stalks, and, as soon as one was consumed, another 
took its place, fire being produced by flint and steel. The tinder was a 
long string of cotton, covered with light calico, to keep it dry and intact. 
Matches were not cheap enough in those days to be in general use by the 
aristocrats of California. 

All the men were dressed alike. Dark cotton-velvet trousers, opened at 
the sides as far as the hips, trimmed with bell-topped silver buttons. The 
opening in the garments revealed drawers that were once white, but time 
and constant wear had so changed their hue that no chemist could have de- 
cided positively as to the original color, and no washerwoman had ever 


On Land and Sect . 


;; 


grumbled over them in the wash-tub. Short velvet jackets, not large enough 
for a school boy, adorned their shoulders, but, as they revealed about six 
inches space between trousers and coat, there was a most wonderful dis- 
play of shirt, in front and rear, the whole trimmed with a red sash of silk, 
except one fellow, who had nothing better to keep up his trousers than a 
red cotton handkerchief. The shirt fronts were all embroidered in an elab- 
orate manner, and looked clean, as they had been put on for the purpose of 
making a visit to the ship one of great ceremony. 

As soon as the people returned home the adorned shirts would be taken 
off, and laid aside for another occasion, equally as important as the one 
they were now engaged in. To cover their heads all wore stiff felt sombre- 
ros, of immense size, and ^11 had gilt hat bands with tassels. 

Mr. Larkin smiled at the French lad’s question. As the Mexicans did 
not understand a word of English he could afford to do so, but he simply 
asked, — 

“ Who do you think these gentlemen are, my boy? ” 

“ Veil,” answered Lewey, “ dey all looks like second-class stage pirates, 
and dey smells like Paris chiffonners.” 

Lewey was always thinking of pirates and other disagreeable subjects, 
and he spoke his mind quite freely at times. 1 used to caution him, but it 
was of no nse. However, there was some truth in the lad’s remark, for the 
Mexicans did pose like bandits in “ Fra Diavolo,” and they smelled of a 
mixture of garlic and onions that would have turned the stomach of a house 
dog, and when one of them put his hand on my shoulder, and grinned in my 
face, I fell back on Lewey, as though I had been shot. The stench was 
too powerful to be resisted, for garlic and onions were a favorite article of 
food with Mexicans in California, in those days, and they had eaten of the 
strong-seasoned vegetables until their whole systems were impregnated, and 
the scent issued in clouds from the pores of their skins and their throats. 

Mr. Larkin, perhaps, did not readily catch what Lewey had said, for he re" 
plied, — 

“ One of these gentlemen is the collector, and the other is the captain of 
the port, another is a colonel in the army, only we have no army, simply a 
company of soldiers up there in the fort; this one is the alcaldaof the town, 
and the rest are retainers of the custom house, and will watch to see that 
you do no smuggling while in port.” 

“ Don’t you boys ask any more questions,” growled Mr. Cushing, who 
had received but little attention, and did not like being treated with indif- 
ference. 


78 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Oh, let the boys alone, and talk all they want to,” Mr. Larkin said ; but 
Mr. Cushing was on his dignity, and replied stiffly, — 

“ I ’m in command of this boat, and the boys will mind me, and not you, 
sir.” 

Mr. Larkin put his hand up to his right ear, so that he could hear all 
Cushing said, and then asked, — - 

“ Pray, sir, who are you ? ” 

“ I have come out here as assistant supercargo of the Admittance, sir,” 
was the prompt reply. 

“ Oh, have you indeed ? Excuse me, but I really thought that you were 
the steward’s clerk, or something of that sort,” and the hard, dry face of the 
merchant did not even smile at the joke, and then the old gentleman, in a 
quiet way, related in Spanish as much of the conversation as he thought 
prudent, without hurting the dignity of the officials. 

They all laughed, and one, the colonel in the army, muttered, — 

“ Mucho Gringo,” which meant that Mr. Cushing was very fresh to the 
country, and had much to learn, and indeed he had, and the rest of us also, 
as we soon discovered. 

By this time the boat was alongside. The mate did the honors of the 
gangway, welcomed the visitors, and pointed out the old man, who was all 
smiles, and terrible Spanish, and who gave Mr. Larkin a warm welcome, 
for they had met many times before, when the master was chief mate, with 
Captain Arthur, of the old ship California. 

We could hear “ caballeros,” “ senors,” “ bueno,” “ tel vez,” “ muchos 
gracious,” “cundo,” “ comida,” “comer,” “euros,” “feliz,” and “amigos 
todas tiempo.” Mr. Larkin acted as interpreter, and then the first serious 
question was asked by the collector of the port. 

“ Why had the Admittance put into Monterey?” 

Every sailor knows that it was formerly the custom of people, trading in 
the Pacific, to leave their consciences at Cape Horn, and pick them up on 
the return home, if they could be found, and if not conveniently at hand, 
when wanted, it did not matter much, as men who have cruised on the Pa- 
cific coasts do not suffer seriously if the article of conscience is never seen af- 
ter once disposed of. This is not original with me, as it has always been a 
source of remark ever since I sniffed salt water, so the old man equivocated 
a little as he said, — 

“ Oh, ve just comes in here for vood and vater, as ve is bound to the 
Sandwich Islands.” 

This was to make the Mexicans get up and tear their hair, and implore 


On Land and Sea. 


79 


the captain to remain, but they did nothing of the kind. They had been 
treated to just such remarks before, and knew as well that the ship was in- 
tended for trade on the coast as the captain. A Mexican can lie as readily 
as an American trader, and I am not sure but that the former is a little su- 
perior to the latter in cool, downright story-telling when it suits him, and he 
can do it in such a calm, indifferent manner that an ordinary, lively Yankee 
gets frantic at the thought of getting outwitted and deceived on all impor- 
tant occasions; and deceived our supercargo was quite often in the way of 
trade. 

Just at this time Americans were not remarkably popular in California, 
simply because a few months before we arrived in port, one of our national 
ships had run into Monterey, and compelled the town to surrender, on the 
supposition that war had been declared between Mexico and the United 
States, a mistake which mortified the captain of the man-of-war so much 
that he saluted the Mexican flag when it was once more hoisted over the 
fort, and made some humble apologies ; but the Californians were rather a 
proud and lazy race, and did not relish summary proceedings. To be sure, 
the fort was armed with four long, brass nine-pounders, the handsomest 
guns that I ever saw, all covered with scroll-work and figures. One was 
appropriately named the Apostle Paul, another was called St. John, a third 
St. Jose, and the fourth bore the name of a lady, the sacred Santa Barbara, 
although why she was sacred 1 never learned. The guns were mounted on 
ruined and decayed carriages, and two of them were pointed toward the 
planet Venus, when in sight, and the other two were so much depressed 
that, had they been loaded and fired, the balls would have startled the peo- 
ple on the other side of the hemisphere like a clap of thunder. Therefore 
it is no wonder that when a demand was made for a surrender, by a man- 
of-war, the request was complied with immediately, and that the soldiers 
left the fort, and took to the woods, remaining there until hostilities had 
terminated, when they returned to the fortification, much to the relief of 
the rancheros, who had farms and cattle in the vicinity, and were rather 
jealous of their wives. 

Just at the point when Captain Peterson told the Mexican officers that 
he was bound to the Sandwich Islands, good Mr. Larkin stepped in as a 
peace-maker. He said that, as the vessel was consigned to Mr. Melius, it 
would be as well to see what he had to say on the subject, before coming to 
any decision, and that a messenger should be despatched for him that very 
night, and to all of this the Mexicans readily agreed. Then they entered 
the cabin, and eagerly drank cheap Boston sherry, ate all that there was on 


8o 


On Land and Sea. 


the table, and put in their pockets and sombreros as much pilot bread as 
the old man thought advisable to give them at one time. 

As soon as the collation was finished the custom-house officers put seals 
on the hatche-s and bulk-heeds, shook hands, and threw their arms around 
the captain, and squeezed him, but he did n’t look as though he liked it. 
One fellow, the man with a handkerchief around his waist instead of a sash, 
made a motion to kiss the old man, but that was more than he could en- 
dure, so he drew back, and evaded the chaste salute, and it was just as well 
that he did, for this very Mexican was left on board to watch us, and see 
that we did no smuggling in the course of the night. But we might have 
unloaded the ship for all that the keeper knew, as he got hold of a bottle of 
sherry wine, and that finished him for a while, so he coiled up on the deck, 
in the steerage, and went to sleep, and did not awaken until seven bells on 
Sunday morning. 

We pulled the custom-house officials on shore, and by the time they were 
landed it was sundown. The Dale fired a musket from her quarter-deck, 
hauled down her flags, and a fife and drum played the “ Star- Spangled Ban- 
ner.” We got our suppers, hoisted up the boat, and then an anchor watch 
was set. I found that I had to be on deck from ten to twelve, and, as I 
was tired, turned in, and slept until I was awakened by the doleful cries of 
Fred the Dutchman. He had comedown in the steerage to call me, but 
blundered, in the dark, against a bulk-head, where there were official seals, 
and had broken off every one in his desperate attempts to open a door 
which he should not have touched, or gone near. He was half asleep, and 
did not stop to think. 

“Officer, officer,” he said, “ I break de seals. Vot skall I do ? Mine 
Gott, dey all smash, and I did not dink dey vas dere. Officer, tell me vot 
skall 1 do?” 

We roused up, struck a glim, and then the genius of Lewey came to the 
front. He told Fred to hold his tongue, flashed the light in the Mexican 
officer’s face, saw that he was in a deep sleep, and not shamming, gathered 
up the pieces of sealing-wax, heated them by the flame of the lamp, and 
stuck them on the door so that no one would have suspected they had been 
removed, or tampered with, and no one did know the truth, much to the joy 
of Fred, who imagined that he had committed some kind of crime that 
would be the means of sentencing him to hard labor in a chain-sano- for 
life. 

As soon as the damage was made good the boys turned in, Fred repaired 
to the forecastle, while I went on deck, and had full charge for the time 


On Land and Sea . 


81 


being. It was a calm, quiet night on the water, but in the town it seemed 
as though every family owned a dozen dogs, and that they were all barking 
at the same time, in answer to the short yelps of hundreds of coyotes, as- 
sembled on the hills just back of the city, and waiting for something to turn 
up, so that a supper could be procured. 

How the people managed to sleep in such a din was more than I could 
imagine. It was said that no noise could disturb a Mexican’s slumbers, 
and that the more dogs a poor family owned, the better rest the people en- 
joyed. Only a few lights could be seen in the town, and those quite faint 
and feeble, as if struggling for existence, while near the fort a bold-eyed 
warrior paced his weary rounds, or went to sleep, as best pleased him, and 
once in a while shouted out, in a long-drawn-out cry, the single word, — 

“ Vigilante.” 

And a soldier posted in the ravine close to the fort, a very safe place for 
boats to land, in case one wanted to carry the place by storm, would wake 
up, roll and light a cigarette, and shout out in response, — 

“ Vigilante,” and then finish his smoke, and go to sleep, quite well as- 
sured that he had done his duty, and earned all the money the Mexican 
government would be likely to pay him for his years of service, as the Mex- 
icans can do more promising and less performing than any nation on the 
face of the earth, except the Spaniards. 

The only sound that I could hear, beside the dogs, the coyotes, and the 
soldiers, was the mournful roar of the surf, and that grew monotonous at 
last, and seemed to have a sleepy influence upon me, and more than once I 
nodded. To keep awake I went over to the starboard side, and looked at 
the sloop-of-war Dale, lying not more than half a cable’s-length from us, 
dark, stately, and grand, with not a light to be seen on her decks. Her 
bells were struck regularly, and the sound reverberated all over the harbor, 
and caused the dogs to renew their yells with additional freshness and vig- 
or, if for a moment they were unintentionally silent. While I was looking 
at the ship I heard some one on the deck, and, turning, saw that the captain 
had come out of his cabin to take a survey of the situation, and see that the 
anchor watch was awake, and doing its duty. 

“Veil, Thom, vot does you think of Monterey?” the captain asked, 
throwing off his dignity for the time being, when he saw who had charge of 
the deck. 

“ I have n’t seen enough of it as yet to form an opinion. I suppose that 
it is a pleasant place, to judge by the looks of the town from the harbor, 
sir.” 


8 2 


On Land and Sea. 


“Yes, it is de most important city on de coast, and much trade is here. 
Ve vill see enough of it afore ve is ready to leave California,” and, bidding 
me be very careful, and not let the Mexicans board the ship, and carry her 
off, he retired into the cabin, and left me to my solitary watch. I did not 
think the people of the town would be likely to come off to the vessel when 
they did not own a single boat, so I lighted my pipe, listened to the surf, 
and the dogs, and my watch was out before I realized it, and, when I went 
below, slept until the second mate called us at five o’clock to turn out, wash 
down, and get the ship all ready for Sunday visitors. 

We went on deck, and, although it was Sunday morning, found enough 
business for all hands. The lower boom was gyed out, and the quarter- 
boats lowered, made fast to it, and Tom and I were ordered to wash 
and put them in good order for the day. Then a gang of men scrubbed the 
decks, and another party went over the sides, and cleaned the paint, and, 
when all was neat and sweet, Mr. Prentice went to work on the yards, 
squaring them by lifts and braces. So particular was he that he got into 
one of the quarter-boats, and, in man-of-war style, went some distance from 
the bows of the ship, and looked all over the vessel, and motioned when to 
haul tight, and when to slack up a little, until at last the Admittance was in 
tip-top condition, and nearly as neat and trim as the Dale, with one hundred 
and seventy five men, and nothing to do but holystone the decks, and keep 
out of each others’ way. 

Then we had some breakfast, and were discussing if the old man would 
give us liberty, as it was Sunday, when the mate passed the word that the 
starboard watch could clean up, and go on shore for the day, but to he on 
the beach at sundown, or there would be no more liberty for the men who 
disobeyed. 

Then there was scrubbing and cleaning, shaving and hair cutting, new 
flannel shirts, and duck trousers, stockings and shoes, and two dollars in 
silver given to each person, except the boys, and they were presented with 
two reals each, or in other words a quarter of a dollar, as it was feared the- 
youngsters might have an ambition to buy the town, and every one in it, so 
it was deemed advisable to restrain them from such a laudable desire. 

As my watch was not to have liberty, I did not take much interest in the 
tumult, but Mr. Prentice said that our turn would come on the next Sunday, 
and we should have a nice time, because we would know the people better, 
and perhaps appreciate them. I had about one hundred Mexican dollars in 
my chest, and no one knew it, not even Lewey. I brought the money with 
me in case I should need funds to get home, if discharged. After breakfast 


On Land and Sea, 


S3 


I broke out my chest, and took a couple of pesos from my hoard, and put 
them in my pocket. When the liberty men were ready we pulled them on 
shore, and left them near the custom house, all quarreling as to where they 
should go, and what they should do, and who should treat first. 

Near the beach, about half way between the custom house and the town, 
was a rough shanty, one story high, and just large enough to hold about ten 
sailors. It was known as Cook’s Pulperia, and a very valuable man Cook 
was to ship-masters, for if a sailor ran away Old Cook could always tell 
where he had gone, and for ten dollars would bring him back in less than 
forty-eight hours. The liquors he sold were auguardiente, a native species 
of rum, and California wine. To drink two glasses of the former was suffi- 
cient to make a sailor desire to fight his best friend, and clean out the offi- 
cers of the ship, and any one who drank half a bottle of the wine had an ir- 
resistible impulse to steal a horse, murder some pious family, or commit 
suicide. 

The Indians from the Mission Carmel, some four miles from Monterey, 
where a few of them were still under the restraining influence of the padres, 
used to come into town every Sunday, with two or three beaver or deer 
skins, sell them to Cook for drinks of auguardiente, swallow the fiery liquid 
in hot haste, and then go to the plaza, and yell and howl for hours at a 
time. Generally some caballero would be awakened from his afternoon 
siesta by the noise, get up, look out of his door, mount his horse, — every 
Mexican had an animal fastened near his house, so that if he wanted to 
cross the street, and see a friend, he could ride, being too lazy to walk, — 
arrange his riata, put spurs to his horse, dash down upon the Indian who 
was doing the most howling, swing the lassoo, encircle the head, arms, or 
legs of the native, and then gallop around town with the poor devil in tow, 
and when he was released there would be some life in him, but not much. 
Pieces of skin and flesh were scattered all over the roads, and the dogs 
would feel as though they had had one good feast during the day. Such 
cruelty was not rare, but then Indians did not amount to much in those 
days. After the Mexican caballero had given his horse a little gentle exer- 
cise, he generally released the native, returned to his house,- and finished 
his siesta, while the Indian would crawl home to the Mission, heal his 
wounds, and come into town, and get some more auguardiente, when he se- 
cured the skins to pay for it. 

The Dale, at eight bells, hoisted her flags as usual, a marine fired off his 
musket, the drum and fife played “ The Star-Spangled Banner,” and cutters 
were piped away to take the officers on shore for a day’s enjoyment. 


8 4 


On Land and Sea. 


As soon as we landed our liberty men, the second mate informed us that 
a bullock was expected to arrive on the beach, and that we were to dress it 
for the benefit of the ship’s company, and, as the rancheros had not arrived 
with the animal, he went up to the pulperia to tell Cook not to sell our men 
any liquor. Then he came back, and safdown on the rocks, and Old Jones 
and English Jack also started off to interview Cook, and were gone a long 
time. When tiiey returned Jones looked like a different man from the for- 
mer quiet old sailor. He appeared to be excited, and said that he could 
lick all the blanked, blanked Mexicans in town, with one of his arms tied 
behind his back, and English Jack intimated that of all the bloody holes he 
was ever in Monterey was the worst, but that the rum, for real stinging qual- 
ities, stuff that you could feel all over you, took the palm, and he would like 
a barrel of it, and nothing to do but drink all day long. 

After waiting an hour or more, two rancheros came toward us, mounted 
on splendid horses, with immense heavy saddles and blankets, driving a 
very cross bullock, but, when the animal was near the beach, one of the 
wild-looking horsemen threw his lassoo, and caught a hind leg of the brute, 
and the other ranchero cast his reata over the head of the bullock, and then 
it was rolled over on the sand, while the horses straightened the lassoos, 
and stood like statues, immovable. Then the riders got off, and limped to- 
ward us, the immense size of their spurs, as large as silver dollars, prevent- 
ing them from walking fast, so they had to tip-toe, as it were, to clear the 
ground. 

“ Here ’s yer bullock,” said one of the men, in English. “ Knock it on 
the head, and we ’ll be off.” 

The fellow was dressed in regular California costume, — broad sombrero, 
gilt band, slashed trousers, short jacket, and red sash, with a huge knife in 
a sheath, fastened to his boot. He was an American, owned a ranche some 
few miles from Monterey, and had been in the country for ten years, had a 
Mexican wife, become a good Catholic (and, while stating this fact, the man 
winked, and run out his tongue), and liked the country, and the life that he 
was leading, although the priests bothered him a little, as they did not have 
much confidence in his religion, and the permanency of his conversion. 

Mr. Davidson suggested that, as bullock-killing was new business to us, 
the ranchero should do the job, but to this the Americanized Mexican re- 
plied, — 

“ You ’ve just got to learn, Mr. Mate. All your bullocks will come down 
on Sundays while you are in port, so go ahead, and let us see you take your 
first lesson.” 


On Land and Sea. 


The rancheros sat down, lighted cigarettes, and smoked quite composed- 
ly. Mr. Davidson took an axe, and called to me to come and hold the poor 
thing’s head, but Lewey and I were examining the trained mustangs, and 
wishing we could ride them, and have a scamper over the hard beach, 
stretching all around the bay to Santa Cruz, so pretended not to hear him. 
We did not like the job, and were ready to decline it without thanks. 

But Old Jones volunteered his services, and we heard a crunching sound, 
but did not turn our heads, for it made us sick, but before we left the coast 
we got accustomed to such things For a boy who wanted to be a pirate, 
and make the old man walk the plank, Lewey had rather a sympathetic 
heart, and did n’t mean to be cruel, or'hurt anything, if he could help it. 

Then the rancheros mounted their horses, and said that they would be 
down at the same hour next Sunday, with a lively bullock for us. They ad- 
vised Mr. Davidson to cut the dead animal's throat, which he did, and then 
went up to see Old Cook, and tell him not to sell our men any liquor, and 
Jones and English Jack said they must have a drink of water, and went up 
and asked Cook where it could be obtained, and when they returned Jones 
said that he could lick every blanked Mexican on the whole coast, one after 
the other, and that he would like to do it, and English Jack stated* as his 
candid opinion that the bloody country was not worth a blank blank, except 
the rum, which was good, and also said that he was the best sailor on boaTd 
the Admittance, and could turn his hand to any job, alow or aloft. That 
made Jones mad, and he intimated that Jack would not be rated even as an 
ordinary seaman on board of some ships he had sailed in, and just as they 
were going in for a fight, the second mate said they must stop quarreling, 
and strip the “ two ” bullocks on the beach, and take them on board with- 
out delay, and so we went to work on the “ one ” and did the job after a 
fashion, for we had to be very careful and not cut the skin, as hides were 
worth one dollar and a half in cash, and two dollars in trade on board the 
ship. 

But it was a slow process, and more than one of the Dale’s crew, some of 
them on liberty for the day, came toward us, and wanted Jones and Jack to 
go and make a call on Old Cook, and they would have gone, but the second 
mate knew that there would be trouble on board if he permitted the two 
men to get drunk, so put his foot down, and saved himself and the sailors 
from a scolding, if nothing worse. 

We skinned out the tallow, for tallow was a merchantable article in Cali- 
fornia at the time, and so many pounds could be exchanged for so many 
hides, the grease going to Callao, or Chili, or the Sandwich Islands, where 


Ui 


86 


Ort Land and Sea. 


it was needed more than skins, and we even saved the heart, liver, and 
tripe, nice little tid bits for the cabin, and the Mexicans who dined there. 
To be sure the tripe was cleaned most thoroughly, that is, we rinsed it in 
salt water, and the cook soaked it over night in his beef barrel, and then 
served it up fried and stewed for the cabin, but I never saw a large plateful 
going aft, all nicety browned, but I experienced some such feeling as was 
manifested on the first day of our voyage, when my stomach was rebellious, 
and needed rest. It did not find repose at the sight of the tripe. It was 
the only thing that Lewey would not steal from the galley, showing that all 
things have a certain aim, and that California tripe was prepared expressly 
for the purpose of keeping the lad honest. 

After the beef was dressed, the second mate had it loaded into the boat, 
and then told Lewey and I that we could run up and see the town for just 
ten minutes, and we went with a rush. We saw some of our men in Cook's 
grog-shop, and they shouted to us to come and have a drink with them, 
but we declined the invitation, and they were not offended at the refusal, as 
we were boys, but had we been messmates they would have felt slighted, 
and expressed a desire to fight, and punch our heads. 

We took a hurried look at the town, and found that the houses were built 
around the plaza, in a struggling, disconnected sort of manner, all of adobe, 
and with tiles on the roof to keep out the rain, but the residences of the 
poorer class were thatched, and not nearly so imposing as they might have 
been. Most of them were of one story, but Mr. Larkin’s, and the govern- 
or’s place, were quite pretentious, and had upper rooms. We saw the gov- 
ernor for the time being, Don Juan B. Alvarado, sitting at a window, in his 
shirt-sleeves, smoking a cigar, and a sentry was pacing before his door, 
musket in hand, to keep people at a distance. 

Just as we reached the plaza, there was a wild, discordant clash of bells, 
which were hung on a frame in front of the church, and we saw that two or 
three Indians were pulling at the tongues, and making all the noise they 
could, regardless of harmony. They were calling the pious to mass, before 
the real serious business of the dav was commenced, such as cock-fisrhtimo 
horse-racing, and bull-baiting. The Monterey people went in for keeping 
the sabbath in the real old Spanish style. Religion first, and then secular 
pursuits, such as were calculated to calm the mind, and impress the public 
that a benevolent government was watching over the rights of the people, 
and giving them their money’s worth, but as no one paid taxes, if they could 
be avoided, it did seem as if the Mexicans had ought to be happy, and not 
get up a revolution every few months, for the sake of the few hundred dol- 


On Land and Sea . 


*7 


lars that hide-droghers paid into the public treasury in the shape of duties, 
and cheated the custom-house authorities outrageously at that, not half of 
the cargoes being entered as a general thing. Even in our ship, concealed 
under fifty or sixty tons of salt, stowed in bulk, were valuable articles, kept 
out of sight until brought to light at San Diego, where we landed the salt, 
and took in stone ballast in its place. 

Lewey and I had but little time to look at the strange sights, and the In- 
dians, picturesquely dressed ; that is to say, with long, black, coarse hair, 
hanging down their backs, a small piece of cloth around their loins, in the 
shape of a breech rag, and nothing more. It seemed remarkable to see 
dozens of them stalking about the streets, and delicate, pretty Mexican se- 
noritas not even blushing as they passed and repassed the houses, all with 
doors thrown open, so that the whole family could be seen. It was not un- 
common for an Indian, six feet tall, stout in proportion, to enter the rooms 
in nature’s costume, pitch on to the table a plate of frijoles, and remark in 
deep, guttural tones, — 

“ Comida.” 

Such was the family cook, the drudge, and that was the way he announced 
that dinner was all ready, and served. Then each member of the circle 
would gather around the table, if they had one, and dip in, with a bit of 
cold, or hot, tortillas as a spoon. If the beans were not forthcoming, there 
was an olla, or stew, and then wooden or iron spoons had to be improvised 
in some manr er, and perhaps the Indian cook would find them, and some- 
times not. It depended upon where he had left them. 

But naked Indians was the custom of the country, and, after a few weeks’ 
residence, no one noticed them, any more than the unclothed children tum- 
bling around in the mud and dust, and with not a rag on their bodies to 
to cover their nakedness. 

In the houses of the foreign residents there was some show of comfort, 
but few of the native Californians cared for nice beds, or good clean cooks 
and food, and articles necessary to set a table. The most refined family on 
the whole coast, of Spanish descent, and who were ladies and gentlemen in 
all that appertained to social and domestic life, was that of Don Noriego, of 
Santa Barbara, and I shall have much to say of him and his youngest daugh- 
ter, whom I several times had the pleasure of carrying in my arms through 
the surf, and I thought her then the most beautiful girl that I had ever seen 
in the world, and still have the same opinion as a man that I had as a boy. 

She was unmarried at the time, and not more than fifteen years of age. 

I often wonder if she is alive, and retains a portion of that beauty, so glori- 


88 


On Land and Sea . 


ous and noble in 1843, when I saw her, on the beach of Santa Barbara, 
rpady to go off to our ship, and pass the day in trading. 

But let us return to Lewey and myself. We finally dodged the man-of- 
war's men, and our own crew, fast getting in fighting trim, and drinking 
more auguardiente, at one real a glass, than was good for them, and, on our 
return to the Boat, were stopped by an old, neatly dressed Scotch woman, a 
resident of the place, who invited us to enter her house, near Cook’s, and 
gave us some milk, and then sold me a champagne bottle full of the same 
for two reals, or at the rate of twenty-five cents a quart, and it was cheap at 
that price, for the vender had to first catch the cow, tie her head and heels, 
and then milk the best way she could. It was no small task, as a Vermont 
farmer can well imagine. 

We carried the bottle to the boat, and when Jones and Jack saw it they 
wanted to take it away from us, under the impression that it contained liq- 
uor for strong men, instead of milk for babies, and their disgust was ex- 
treme when they learned what its contents really were. They had no love 
for milk. 

We pulled on board, and hoisted in the meat, and had some boiled for 
dinner, and after that, unless we were at sea, had fresh beef for breakfast, 
and the noonday meal, until we longed for salt junk, as the epicure desires 
a new dish to satisfy his sated palate. 

In the afternoon the captain dressed in his best clothes, put on his white 
beaver hat, always reserved for great occasions, the quarter-boat was called 
away, and we pulled him on shore. Then he gave us our first instruction 
in landing through surf, and we soon improved on the lesson, but it was 
cold work, as the water was like ice, and we had to go bare-footed, as no 
leather could stand the wear. Soon Harry gave away, and then Bill was 
tried, but he caught crabs with his oars, and -would not learn to row, and 
then Frank was trotted out, but a few days’ boating cured him. He had a 
habit of ripping out the seat of his trousers, and when we had gentlemen 
in the boat, and he was called upon to stand up, and fend off, as he pulled 
the bow oar, he would bend over more than was necessary, and people 
laughed at him and his trousers. Mr. Prentice used to scold, and ask him 
why he did not mend his dothes, and Frank would say that he had no time 
except Sundays, and that his parents were religious, and always opposed 
his working on the sabbath. 

So Frank was removed, and he used to spend his spare time on Sundays 
in casting lead fish-line sinkers, lead pipes, and making candle-moulds, so 
he did some good, for we made our own candles, stealing the tallow and the 


On Land and Sea. 


89 


wick from the doctor, when he was asleep, and could always have a light in 
* the steerage in the evenings. 

Then Mr. Prentice told me to pick out an ordinary seaman for the bow 
oar, and I chose Simple Davy, giving as a reason to the delighted mate 
that Lewey, Tom, and I could fall upon him, and hurt him, unless he did 
what we desired when on shore. We wanted him to stay by the boat while 
the rest of us wandered off, to see the people, and get into houses, and eat 
frijoles. 

And so our boat’s crew was settled on at last, and we stuck to the work 
all the time we were on the coast, and mighty lively scenes we had occa- 
sionally, up and down California, known to all, and always well treated by 
the inhabitants with whom we were brought in contact. 

As evening drew on, that first Sunday, we went on shore for the old man 
and Cushing, and, as we waited on the beach, our pinnace landed to take 
the liberty men on board, and down they came, with the sailors of the Dale, 
all roaring drunk, and defiant of discipline and order. I must confess that 
we boys enjoyed the excitement, for it was something new to hear men give 
back answers to their officers, and to tell them that they could have a good 
stand-up fight if they wanted one, while the truth was not one sailor out of 
a dozen could walk upright without support. Our men were not quite as 
bad as the Dale’s crew, but there was an immense amount of embracing and 
slobbering over each other, and the naval officers were very patient, all 
things considered. At last the sailors were stowed away in the cutters, and 
then there was another fight, and so the boats were pulled toward the ship, 
and our men were helped in the pinnace, before the captain came down. 
He had heard of the row, and looked a little cross, as though he had hoped 
for better things on the first liberty day on shore, in California. 

When we got on board, and hoisted up the boats, the crew were all quiet, 
for Mr. Prentice had sent the drunken men to the forecastle, and kept them 
out of sight of the old man. The mat* 1 knew what sailors were capable of, 
as soon as removed from all restraints and discipline, and did not blame 
them as much as he might have done had he been master of the vessel, and 
felt the whole responsibility on his shoulders for the success -of the voyage. 

But what had grieved Captain Peterson the most, as I could tell by his 
face, was to have his beloved white beaver hat insulted. He took pride in 
that hat. He had bought it as a mark of respectability, in Boston, just be- 
fore we sailed, and tended it with care during all the passage, and had 
mounted it only on the occasion of the visit to the slaver. This Sunday he 
had worn it on shore, and felt proud of it, for there was not another such 


go 


On Land and Sea. 


sombrero in all California, so fresh, so fluffy, the fur turning in all directions 
at every puff of air, and all the Mexican doncellitas had admired it, and pass- 
ed their little brown hands over the sides, and wondered how it was put to- 
gether, and all the senors had made remarks about that hat, and had exam- 
ined and asked the price of it, for it was so light and airy that it took their 
fancy, and many would have ordered like styles had there been a stock on 
hand to select from. But there was not, and so the old man was pleased, 
because he was all alone in his new fashion. Imagine then his surprise and 
disgust, as we were pulling off that night, and passed one of the Dale cut- 
ters, the sailors still fighting, to have the man of-war's men stop their pugil- 
istic encounters, and yell out, at the top of their voices, — 

“ Trice up that hat, and make a wind-sail of it, cap’en.” 

And then another sailor, in defiance of orders from a midshipman, cried 
out, — 

“ Take a double reef in that sombrero, cap’en, or you’ll carry away your 
bobstay,” and all the boat’s crew laughed so heartily that the oarsmen 
caught crabs, and tumbled into the bottom of the cutter, and had to be 
helped up, as they could not assist themselves very readily. 

The old man’s eyes flashed. If the sailors had belonged to his own ship 
he would have waded in, and flogged every one of them, single handed, for 
there were but few men who could stand before him when he was in his 
prime. Now he had to submit to the insults, and, although Lewey was 
nearly bursting, he wanted to laugh so much, we managed to keep sober 
faces, as the captain said, — 

“Give vay, lads, and get out of hearing of dese unmanly cubs,” and we 
bent to our oars, and left the cutter to continue its slow course toward the 
Dale, fighting and quarreling still going on. 

The next morning all hands were called at five o’clock, to wash down the 
decks, and the men who had been on shore the day before, with aching 
heeds, and languid steps, were compelled to go to work like the rest of us. 
Still they boasted of the jolly time they had had, and how they would like 
some more of the same soft as soon as ] ossible. 

Just as eight bells were struck on board of the Dale, and our own ship, 
but after breakfast, and we were “ turned to” for the forenoon, Mr. Pren- 
tice saw r an Irish pennant on the starboard lift of the maintopsail yard. It 
was not more than two or three inches long, but the quick eye of the mate 
had caught sight of ir, and he sent me aloft to remove it, and see if the lift 
wanted new “ serving.” ^ 

I went up the rigging at a leisurely pace, for I was fast becoming accus- 


07 t Land and Sea . 


91 


tomed to a sailor’s life, and, just as I straddled the yard-arm, I saw a com- 
motion on board the Dale. She was lying not more than a third of a cable's- 
length from the Admittance, and, as there was not a breath of air, and the 
sun was shining quite brightly, I could look down from my lofty position on 
the guns of the sloop-of-war, and see all that was going on. Officers were 
mustered on the quarter-deck, in full uniform, with swords by their sides, 
and stood in groups, and talked in low tones, while the men were gathered 
on the top-gallant forecastle, around the foremast, the booms, and the 
launch. They looked very solemn, and there was no skylarking going on, 
or loud talk. The sailors glanced anxiously toward their superiors, as 
though to read the expression of their faces, and judge what was passing in 
their minds. Something of a serious nature was to take place, but what it 
was 1 could not divine. No one was dead, for the ensign was not half-mast- 
ed, but fluttered at the peak as a light puff of air from the shore touched its 
graceful folds, and then passed on, and left it listless as before. 

Suddenly up to the foremast head went a flag, and I heard Mr. Prentice 
call to the second mate, who was below with a gang of men, and say, — 

“ Come-on deck, Mr. Davidson. The Dale has hoisted a flag for punish- 
ment, and we can see it all. Some of the men have got to catch it this 
morning for yesterday’s drunk.” 

The flag meant that no strange boats or visitors were allowed alongside 
until it was lowered. Outsiders were not wanted just then. 

Suddenly the boatswain of the ship stepped into the waist, put his silver 
pipe to his mouth, uttered a shrill “ tweet, tweet, tweet,” and then 
shouted, — 

“ All hands muster aft to witness punishment. Tumble up from below, 
and be lively about it. Do you hear ? ” 

Some of the sailors were to be seized up, and flogged, and I wanted to 
see the affair, if I could, so kept still, and waited for the cruel work to com- 
mence. I had read of such punishment, but never witnessed it on ship- 
board. It was brutal and horrible, but it was the custom of the navy, and 
merchant vessels, also, at that time, and continued until the law stopped it 
some years ago. 



LEWEY TRIES AN EXPERIMENT. 


PART FOURTH. 

PUNISHMENT ON BOARD A MAN-OF-WAR. — MAKING SPREAD-EAGLES OF 
SAILORS. — A GALE OF WIND. — THE SHIP’S AGENT, — IN THE SURF. — 
LANDING CARGO. — LIBERTY ON SHORE. — A FETE DAY WITH THE 
MEXICANS IN MONTEREY. — LEWEY’s FIRE-CRACKERS. — HOW WE 
WALTZED WITH THE GIRLS. 

T HE boatswain had hardly uttered his shrill pipe, and hoarse shout 

of,- 

“ All hands muster aft to witness punishment,” than the two boatswain's 
mates, on each side of the launch, repeated the disagreeable cry, sounding 
their pipes very shrilly for several seconds. Then the crew, after a mo- 
ment’s hesitation, surged aft, as far as the mainmast, and there halted, 
while the soldier-like marines paraded the quarter-deck, near the capstan, 
and stood like statues, with their muskets at a carry, and when the captain 
of the ship came on the poop they presented arms as one man, and then re- 
turned to their old position, and kept their eyes on the sailors, as though 
they feared that the latter would make a sudden rush, and wrench the mus- 
kets and bayonets from their hands, and take possession of the ship, v hich 


On Land and Sea. 


93 


they might have done had not fear of those in authority kept them under 
subjection. 

Presently there was a stir among the sailors, and the master-at-arms, with 
his assistants, came on deck, and led aft two men, whom I had seen drunk 
and fighting the evening before, on shore and in the cutter. One of the 
prisoners was a young fellow, not more than twenty -three years of age, an 
American, and the other was an English man-of-war’s man, a person about 
thirty-five, with a hard-looking face, and devil-me-care air, as though he had 
no shame for the position in which he found himself placed, while the Amer- 
ican seemed a little abashed, and sorry for what he had done. 

I saw the captain open a paper, and read from it, and I supposed it was 
the articles of war. Then he said a few words which I could not hear, 
waved his hand, turned and walked aft, and seemed to be looking across the 
bay, as though the scene on deck had no attraction for him ; but it had 
great interest for me, and I was glad that Mr. Prentice had forgotten my ex- 
istence for the moment. 

The master-at-arms and his assistants hurried the American sailor to the 
gratings at the main rigging, and then some one said, in a harsh voice, one 
single word, and that was, — 

“ Strip.” 

The sailor slowly pulled off his blue flannel shirt, as though he did not 
care for the job, and then his belt was removed, so that the trousers would 
fall well down on his hips, and the man’s white flesh was exposed to view. 

“ Seize him up,” was the cruel command, and the man’s wrists were se- 
cured- to the gratings, the arms stretched up, and wide apart, making a 
spread eagle of the man, and then his ankles were fastened, and the sailor 
was helpless, and at the mercy of the captain. 

“ Boatswain’s mate, give the man one dozen,” was the stern command, 
and then many of the officers looked up aloft, or in any direction but toward 
the spot where a human being was to be punished like a brute, just because 
he had drunk some of the accursed shore auguardiente, which Old Cook 
had furnished him. 

One of the boatswain’s mates, a powerful man, stepped forward, run his 
fingers through the several tails of his cruel cat, then retreated a step, and 
looked at the officer who appeared to be giving orders. One of the lieuten- 
ants who had turned his back to the scene, caught sight of me, perched on 
the yard, and made a motion for me to “laydown,” but I was not under his 
authority, and so refused to stir. I wanted to see all that there was to be 
seen, like the boy at the bull fight. 


94 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Do you® duty, boatswain’s mate,” the captain said, in a cold, stern 
tone. 

The petty officer raised his terrible cat, and let it fall with cruel force on 
the bare back of the sailor, and I saw blood follow the blow, and large, red 
ridges appeared on the skin. 

“ One,” cried some person, who appeared to keep tally. He spoke so 
that all could hear, fore and aft. 

“ Oh,” from the sailor, and he shuddered. 

“ Two.” 

“ O God ! ” moaned the poor fellow. 

“ Three.” 

“ O Jesus ! ” and the sailor’s head was turned imploringly toward the of- 
ficers. But there was no pity for him on their faces. 

“ Four.” 

“ Oh, oh, oh ! ” and a struggle to tear his arms loose from the grating. 

“ Five.” 

“ O God, have mercy on me ! ” 

“ Six.” 

“ Please, cap'en, spare me.” 

“Seven.” 

“ I 'll never do so again if you ’ll forgive me.” 

“ Eight.” 

“ O my God, where are you ? ” 

“Nine.” 

“ Mercy, mercy, mercy ! ” 

“ Ten.” 

“ O damnation, don’t ! ” 

“ Eleven.” 

“ Curses on the whole of you ! ” 

“ Twelve.” 

“ O mother, mother, mother ! ” and the poor fellow’s head fell on his 
breast. He had fainted under the lash. 

“ Cast him loose,'’ was the stern command, and then the master-at-arms 
severed the lashings, and the sailor fell into the arms of his assistants, quite 
unconscious. 

The surgeon of the ship stepped forward, and felt of the insensible man’s 
pulse. He was silent for a moment, turned to the captain, saluted, and said 
something in a low tone. The captain waved his hand, the fainting 
man’s shirt was thrown over his shoulders, bruised and bleeding, and then 


On Land and Sea. 


95 


he was led forward. As he passed his messmates he recei y quiet 

jeers of contempt, because he had not shown more pluck, en his 



punishment without a murmur, or a single groan. VT 

“ Next,” cried a stern voice, and the master-at-arms appeared with the 
second person to be punished, an Englishman, as I have said, an old man- 
of-war’s man, yet young in years. He had a smile on his lips, as he faced 
the quarter-deck, and all the officers, as though he did not care for them, or 
the disgrace which he had brought upon himself. 

“ Drunkenness and fighting,” said the captain. “One dozen. Strip.” 

The fellow pulled off his shirt with an air of profound indifference, as 
coolly as if he was about to turn in for the night, with the prospect of a 
good sleep before him. He tossed his shirt to a messmate, removed his 
leather belt, so that his trousers would drop down to the hips, and then 1 
could see that the man’s back was already seamed and scarred, by previous 
punishment, before he had deserted from the English service, and entered 
the American navy. 

“Seize him up,” was the command, and the fellow was made a spread 
eagle of, as the previous man had been. 

“ Boatswain’s mate, do your duty, and, blank you, if you spare him 1 ’ll 
disrate you,” was the encouraging order. 

The second boatswain's mate stepped forward, a very powerful man, six 
feet tall, all bone and muscle. He looked as though capable of knocking 
down a bullock, and then eating him in the course of a day. 

He run his bony fingers through the tails of the cat in a dainty manner, 
like a lady playing with her lover’s curls, or the ears of her favorite dog, 
and drew back his powerful right arm. 

“ One,” cried the person who kept the run of the blows. 

The cat whizzed through the air, and fell upon a naked back, but the 
sailor did not flinch, or utter a moan. 


The cat again descended, and, as it struck the flesh, I had to grip the top- 
sail lift quite hard to prevent falling off the yard, so much was I affected by 
the terrible blows. 

Not a word, a sigh, or struggle from the victim, as the tails of the cat 
fell, and spread over the man’s back. 


“ Three.” 


The sailor even turned his head toward his shipmates, and made a ges- 
ture of contempt. The captain saw it, and was angry, for he growled 
out, — 


9 6 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Blank you, boatswain’s mate, you are not doing your duty. You would 
not brush a fly from the man’s back. Put some strength in \our blows, or 
I ’ll disrate you, as sure as 1 live.”’ 

The petty officer did not reply, but he threw back his arm as though he 
meant to have blood, and, when the blow did descend, it seemed as though 
the cat would cut the sailor’s body into two pieces* 

“ Four.” 

It was terrible, but the fellow did not utter as much as a murmur, or even 
struggle to free his arms from the lashings. 

“ Five.” 

Down fell the pitiless cat, and the blood flowed in great drops, trickling 
along even to the deck. 

The man set his teeth together, but still there was no cry of pain, not 
even a groan, How he could endure it, and not yell and shrink, was more 
than I could imagine. 

“ Six.” 

Still no signs of flinching. 

The assembled crew began to be interested, and a hum of admiration 
swept through the crowd, like a ripple of applause at a theatre, when a good 
point has been made by some favorite actor. They admired the sufferer's 
pluck, and wanted to encourage him to endure all to the end, without flinch- 
ing. 

“ Seven.” 

The blow might as well have fallen on a block of marble, for all the ef- 
fect it produced. 

“ Eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve,” and all without a murmur. 

“ Cut him down,” was the command, and, as the saiior was releaved, he 
actually turned and smiled at the officers, took his shirt from his mess- 
mate’s hands, and then once more faced the commander. 

“ Go forward, and don’t let me hear of your drinking and fighting again,” 
the captain said. “ If I do you will get four dozen the next time instead of 
one. Pipe down, boatswain. 

The pipes sounded, the men ranged forward, talking of the pluck of one 
man, and the weakness of the other, but all agreeing that it was confounded 
hard to flog a man for having a good time, and getting drunk, while the com- 
missioned officers could be parbuckled on board, full of wine and rum, and 
not a word of condemnation would fall from the lips of those in command. 
Then at eight bells, or twelve o’clock, noon, the boatswain’s pipes sounded, 
shrill and long, and I could hear the hoarse cry of, — 


On Land a7id Sea. 


97 


“Grog, oh, grog ! Tumble aft, and splice the main brace,” for in those 
days rum was served out to the men every day, at twelve o’clock, and some- 
times oftener, especially when hard work was performed, such as reefing 
topsails, and in heavy gales, and cold weather. 

The two men had been punished for drinking, and in three hours and a 
half after they were cut down, they could muster aft, and take their gill of 
liquor. All were expected to drink it at the tub, or carry it off in tin pots, 
and trade it away with messmates for tobacco or clothing. I have known 
man-of-war’s men to purchase exemption from punishment by giving a ship- 
mate a month’s allovvance of grog, to confess that the real perpetrator of a 
crime was innocent, and the innocent guilty. 

Many years have elapsed since serving out grog and flogging were abol- 
ished in the navy, and it is too late to argue for or against the practice, but 
I have heard old seamen declare that they preferred the United-States ser- 
vice when the cat was supreme, as no good man would be punished unless 
he deserved it, and that there were always a lot of scoundrels, drunkards, 
and thieves in the navy, who got no more than they deserved when they 
received their one, two, three, or four dozen, while the stopping of the grog 
rations drove from the service hundreds of good men, who liked rum, and 
remained in the navy because liquor was served out regularly. The old- 
school sailor is dying out, and now we have coal-heavers, and engine 
greasers, instead of marline-spike and tar bucket seamen. It may be for the 
best, as the wooden walls of Uncle Sam, and the men who defended them, 
are gone, and will never return. The ideal sailor is obsolete. Even his 
ghost is only occasionally seen on our steam frigates and iron clads. 

But all of this time I sat astraddle of the maintopsail yard, and been for- 
gotten. I had removed the Irish pennant from the lift, but was dizzy and 
sick at heart, after witnessing the scene on the Dale. From my stupor I 
was aroused by the stern voice of the mate. 

“ You Thom,” he shouted, “ what the devil are you doing up there all of 
this time? Have you gone to sleep? How long does it take to remove a 
bit of spun yarn ? Lay down on deck, and be lively about it.” 

I knew Mr. Prentice was just shouting for effect, and that he had permit- 
ted me to remain aloft so that I could witness the punishment, but the old 
man had come on deck, and it was necessary to make a show of being alive 
and active. 

“ Ay, ay, sir, just coming down,” I answered, and, as I gained the deck, 
the captain, with a look on his face of the deepest disgust, was saying, — 

“ Mr. Prentice, get de pinnace under de bows, and put a kedge in her, 


^ n 

9 ° 


On Land and Sea. 


and fifty fathoms of line. Den man de windlass, and up anchor. Ve vill 

hedge avay from dat floating . She vill corrupt all of my mens in 

less den a veek,” and we did run out a line, and kedge away from the Dale, 
taking up a position a little nearer the custom house, and half a cable’s- 
length further from the national ship, the first time in the history of the 
merchant marine that a trading vessel had to shift her anchorage for fear of 
the corrupting influence of a man of war, and an American one at that. 

The reason the Dale’s crew were so irrepressibly ugly, and regardless of 
discipline, was because the time of most of the men was out, and they should 
have been homeward bound longbefore, but were compelled to wait for the 
United-States ship Ceynne, from Mazatland, and she was expected every 
day. California was even then considered as too important to be entirely 
deserted by our national ships, and given up to the English, who were mak- 
ing great exertions to win the good will of the Mexicans, but did not suc- 
ceed, because the John Bulls could not change their politics and religion as 
rapidly as the Yankees. Our people would marry into the best families, if 
possible, and sometimes regardless of the fact that they had wives at home, 
while the Englishmen did not understand the system of union, so went 
wifeless. Then again, the Americans did not care whether they worship- 
ped in the Catholic or Protestant form of religion, so long as they had some- 
thing to swear by, and this pleased the priests, the wives, and the Mexicans, 
consequently all was lovely, while the natives of Great Britain, who would 
not, usually, learn Spanish, or the customs of the country, wanted to argue 
before being converted, and so lost ground on all occasions, as might be ex- 
pected. When you desire to get a State away from its inhabitants, it won't 
answer to be too particular over a little matter like conscience. Our agents 
regarded the advice they had received from the State department, — “ Be 
anything and everything so that you keep out the English until we are 
ready to take the country,” for the Mexican war was even then brewing, aud 
was only a question of months; as was expected at the time, but was delay- 
ed for several years, for certain political’ "reasons, which Texas politicians 
can even now answer and explain. 

But, as though the heavens desired to frown upon the flogging scene, the 
sun became obscured after twelve o'clock, black clouds passed over us, the 
wind piped in fitful gusts from the northeast, and drops of rain began to 
fall, to the intense delight of Chips, who brought his nine three-gallon demi- 
johns on deck, so as to be all ready in case there was a shower, arm he 
rubbed his hands, laughed and joked, as the drops fell thick and fast, and 
said, — 


On Land and Sea . 


99 


“ I dink I skall like de kountry. Only doo days here, and now it rains. 
Dat is good.” 

Down went the royal and topgallant yards of the Dale, as the puffs in- 
creased, and our captain put on his oil-cloths, and sou’wester, and sniffed a 
gale. He knew what the change of weather meant. We were in a com- 
paratively open harbor for a northeaster, as Point Pinos was the only break- 
water between the ship and the ocean, and already the heavy swell set into 
the bay, and the white surf broke with a sullen roar over the black rocks of 
the point. 

Our cable began to taughten, and then down came our royal yards, and 
we dropped a second anchor, and payed out more chain, but still the wind 
increased, and the rain poured down in torrents, and the old man walked 
the deck, and told Mr. Prentice that it was good weather for all of us. 

“ De more rain, de more hides and tallow,” he said. “ Let it come down. 
I ’m glacl to see it.” 

And it did come down in torrents, and the gale increased, and a heavy 
swell set into the bay, and the surf began to grow, and break on the beach 
with a continuous roar, and mount higher and higher as the afternoon wore 
away, and at last there came a blast that made us feel as though a California 
northeaster was something to be respected, as our chains were as straight 
as bars of iron. Then we saw the Dale drop a second anchor, and pay out 
cable, and we also gave our ship a longer scope to ride by. The gale now 
came down upon us in furious gusts, and the rain was like the one we had 
experienced in crossing the line, a few weeks before. 

Chips filled his demijohns, and swore that he would never leave the 
country, and he drank water until he was swelled up like a man with the 
dropsy, and wanted to imbibe more, but there was not room for it, so he 
had to look on, and see the water run out of the scuppers, going to waste, 
although we filled all of our empty casks, for the gale lasted twenty-four 
hours, and the rain forty-eight, tapering off in hard showers. Then the sun 
came out, and the captain ordered the quarter-boat ready, for he wanted to 
go on shore, and see if there was any news of Mr. Henry Melius, our super- 
cargo. 

The surf was rolling very lively on the beach, fearfully, 1 thought, — but 
I did not know as much as I did afterward about California surf, — and the 
first thing the captain did was to order the. rudder and yok<S*aken from the 
the boat, a long, powerful steering-oar shipped in their place, and then he 
told us to shove off, and we pulled toward the shore. 

“Now,” he said, as we neared the beach, “ I vill give you annuder les- 


too 


On Land and Sea. 


son in boating. You vatch me, and see how I does it, and den you vill 
knowhow. Now lay on your bars. * You see dare is three big rollers com- 
ing in, one. arter the other. Ve vill vait a minute, and ven I says, pull you 
rows like dunder.” 

We waited. The surf was not more than five feet high, but it did look 
formidable to me, and I thought we should be swamped, certainly, but our 
boats were constructed expressly for such work as we had before us, sharp _ 
at both ends, broad and light, built of the best of cedar. Something like a 
whale boat, but not so long, and more beam, and full as buoyant in a heavy 
sea. 

“ Now give vay,” yelled the old man, and we bent to our oars, and went 
on the beach with a rush. 

“ Overboard vid you, you monkeys,” roared the captain. “ Now grab de 
boat, and up vid her. Be quick, or dat roller vill catch us. Never mind de- 
oars. Dey vill come on shore. Dat is good. Very veil done. Now turn 
de boat round, so ve goes off bow on ven ve is ready. Put de oars across 
so dat you has dem all handy. I tells you de rest ven I comes back,” and 
he walked toward the town, leaving us wet to the hips, but rather proud of 
our achievement, and still more proud when one of the Dale’s cutters pulled 
toward the shore, with three officers as passengers, and they’ did not dare 
to land in their square-sterned boat, with a rudder, which was perfectly use- 
less in such a surf as was raging at the time. 

The water was cold, and the sand like ice, but we kept moving, and so re- 
mained comparatively warm. Beside, we busied ourselves by throwing 
stones at the hundred or more turkey buzzards that were assembled on th * 
beach, with drooping wings and heads, pecking, in a disconsolate sort of 
manner, at the bones of the bullock we had killed on Sunday. They were 
huge, disgusting looking birds, and did not move even when we were with- 
in a fathom of them. Of course we could plump them every time, but they 
were tough, and did not seem to mind the stones very much, and we should 
have continued the sport, had not a Mexican rode up to us, and said, — 

“ Mai muchacho marineros. No mas,” intimating that we had better 
stop that kind of fun, and we did, for the Mexicans protected the garbage 
bird, as it acted as scavenger, and cleaned the streets and fields of all the 
remains of bullocks that were left untouched by the Indians. After a buz- 
zard and an Indian had gone through with the entrails and bones, there was 
not much for the coyotes to feed on. 

As soon as we had stopped stoning the buzzards, in obedience to the 
Mexican’s command, we turned our attention to the Dale’s cutter, and 


On LancL and Sea . 


ioi 


hoped it would enter the surf, and be capsized, as we wanted to see the of- 
ficers ducked. But the dignitaries had no idea of wetting their feet if they 
could help it, and so refused to land, but one of them stood up in the stern- 
sheets of his boat, and hailed us. 

“ Ahoy, the Admittance boat,” he said. 

“ Ahoy, the cutter of the Dale,” I answered back, and our boys rolled 
over and over on the damp sand, in an ecstasy of delight at my boldness 
and assumed confidence. 

“ Can't you come out here, take us in your boat, and land us ? ” was the 
next question. 

This was a stumper, but we did not like to acknowledge that we were 
only gringos in the surf, and that bad boy, Lewey, in an eager tone, whis- 
pered, — 

“ V^e do it, by gracious, and hab lots of fun. You say yes, vik” 

I did not like the job, but shouted back that we would come off, and do 
the best we could for them, and then we run the boat off the -beach, tum- 
bled into her, and pulled for all we were worth, and, to my surprise, we got 
outside of the rollers in safety, and alongside of the cutter. The three of- 
ficers entered our boat, and one of the lieutenants took the steering-oar. 

“ You will have to be very careful, sir,” I said, “ or we shall all be spilled 
out.” 

I wanted to impress upon the minds of the officers that I was well up in 
all kinds of boating, and did impose upon some of the officials, for two of 
them said, — 

“ Oh, let the lad beach the boat. He knows all about it, and you don't.” 

“ Don't I ? ” cried the lieutenant. “ I ? 11 show you how it is done. Give 
way, boys.” 

“ Regardez vous,” said Lewey to me in French, and a grin spread over 
his handsome face. He suspected what was coming, as the naval officer 
did not wait for a good chance to run in, or mind the surf. 

We dipped our oars in the water, and pulled hard. A huge roller came 
racing after us, raised the stern of the boat high in the air, the bow sank 
down, the lieutenant made a desperate dip with the steering-bar, but failed 
to touch the water, and the next instant the boat was on its b:am, scooting 
along the beach at the rate of ten knots an hour, and then a monstrous roll- 
er swept over us, and we were buried three feet deep in foam and sand, and, 
when we came up to the surface, the officers were struggling to get their 
breaths, and their undress uniforms were a sight for man and boy to laugh 
at, for there was not a dry thread in the whole crowd, and that bad Lewey 


102 


On Land and Sea. 


was just rolling on the sand, and shouting in French, Spanish, and Eng- 
lish, his »lee at the catastrophe. 

“ Blank you, stop your noise, you brat,” cried one of the officers, spitting 
the sand from his mouth, and wringing his coat sleeves. “What blanked 
fools we were to come on shore in this way. By Jove, Mason, you don t 
catch me in a boat with you again, where there is a surf. I was positive 
you clid n't know how to handle her. The lads could have done better.” 

“Well, you see,” explained Mr. Mason, “the bojs did not give way hard 
enough, and that confounded roller caught us, and here we are, wet and 
nasty.” 

“ The boys were all right. They gave way when you told them to. Don't 
throw the blame on the lads. They only obeyed orders, and see what a 
mess they are in, as well as ourselves. Here, lads, is a dollar for your 
trouble and wetting, and now you will have to take us back to the cutter, 
for we can't call on any pretty senoritas in this rig. They would laugh at 
us, and, confound it, this is no laughing matter, for the water is like ice.” 

We cleared the boat of sand, picked up our oars, turned the bow to the 
rollers, and took the officers to the cutter, and they went on board the 
Dale, sadder and wetter men than when they left her half an hour before. 

By watching a good chance we beached the boat without accident, and 
waited for the captain, who did not come down until nearly six o'clock, and 
the only way we could keep warm was to play leap-frog, and make Davy 
act the part of stump, over whose broad back we jumped, to the intense de- 
light of Mr. Prentice, who was watching us from the quarter-deck, by the 
aid of a spyglass. He was always looking after the boys, and did not ob- 
ject to all the fun they could find, provided discipline was not encroached 
upon. 

We got the old man through the surf without wetting his feet, and he was 
kind enough to grin when we told him about the accident to the naval offi- 
cers. I think that he rather enjoyed the account which we gave him, but 
he told us that we must always be careful, and not wet the Mexicans who 
came off to buy, as they did not like water, and, if they were soused, they 
would not trade, and so we should miss getting our share of hides, and this 
impressed us so much, that we said we should be very polite to our custom- 
ers, and be careful of their welfare, promises which we forgot in less than a 
week, for we did like to see the natives squirm when the surf was high, and 
the water cold. But when we had ladies in the boat I was always very par- 
ticular and careful, and all the young and pretty girls I used to carry to dry 
land in my arms, and make Lewey take the old and fat ones, and, when he 


On Land and Sea. 


io 3 


would mutiny and rebel, I usually designated Simple Davy, and he always 
obeyed orders, for he had not a sensitive nature for beauty, like the French 
lad, Tom, and myself. 

But 1 had my crew in very good subjection, and, to encourage them, and 
keep them up to their work, I would let them carry in their arms, or on their 
backs, all the fat priests and Mexicans who honored us with their pairon- 
age, and 1 told Lewey that, as he was a Catholic, it might be the means of 
saving his soul from everlasting perdition, but, to my surprise, he did not 
seem grateful, and said that if he could take the pretty doncellitas the holy- 
fathers might go to blazes for all he cared, and that I had better give the 
padres a lift on my own account, and see how I liked it. He was a very pe- 
culiar boy, was Lewey, and would rarely listen to my wise counsel. He 
was extremely selfish about the pretty senoritas, because he knew that, as 
coxswain of the boat, it was my place to take charge of and see that no ac- 
cident happened to them, and that, after all, I cheerfully yielded to him the 
wives of a certain sort, and all the priests. There are some boys who are 
never satisfied, do as much as we can for their welfare. 

That very afternoon, after we had got on board, changed our clothes, 
hoisted up the boats, and were eating supper, I had a long and confidential 
talk with Lewey. I told him of the flogging on board of the Dale, and that 
I hoped he would live such an honored life that our captain would not make 
a “spread eagle ” of him during the voyage, and how grieved I should be 
if such was the case. He listened very attentively to all I had to say, and I 
hoped I had made an impression on him, but when I concluded, he threw 
an arm around my neck, and brought his mouth close to my ear. I feared 
he was so melted that he was about to kiss me, a thing I detest on the part 
of a masculine human being, for I had rather be kissed by a hundred wo- 
m£n than one man, but he merely whispered, — 

“ Thom, old chum, de doctor is frying doonuts for de cabin. I se # d ’em. 
You talk to de cook on one side of de galley, and I steal ’em on de udder. 
Come on.*’ 

“ Doonuts ” was about as near as he could come to “doughnuts.” Now 
doughnuts were rare on board, but the steward did make very nice ones, 
and we had never been invited by the old man to eat one. Tlv/s was tyran- 
ny in our eyes. I looked at Lewey very sternly. He smiled, and extend- 
ed his arms. I shook hands with him, and we went on deck. It was 
growing dark, and the men were in the forecastle eating supper. The doc- 
tor was turning out doughnuts at a rapid rate, and they smelled and looked 
beautifully. There was a large pile in a dish on the stove to keep them 


104 


On Land and Sea. 


warm. I sat down on a spar near the galley door, and spoke to the black 
cook in a sober tone. 

^Doctor,” 1 said, “ California is a good place for people who believe as 
you do in religious matters.” 

“ Golly, what does yer mean by dat, child ? ” he asked, and turned his face 
toward me, and, as he did so, I saw a hand, at the other door of the galley, 
dart forth like lightning, and grab a big, fat doughnut. 

“ Why, doctor,” I replied, “ we are baptized every day in cold water, and 
that ought to make us good.” 

“ Well, honey, it would take all de water of dis country to do dat, I ’m 
thinkin',” and the doctor laughed, and returned to his work, but Lewey had 
secured another temptir g prize, and made motions that he wanted more. 

“ Do you think, doctor, that infants should be baptized ? ” 1 asked, start- 
ing: one of Ids favorite hobbies. 

“ Well, now, honey, dat depends on de fadder and mudder. If you was 
de fadder of a child I should n’t dink dat baptizin’ would save ’em. But — 
Golly ! where all my doughnuts go to ? Blame me if some of dem blasted 
boys ha’n’t been around here, sure as fate. Dey would steal de teeth 
right out of a nigger’s head. Go away from here, boy, and don’t come talk- 
in’ nonsense to dis child. I ’spects yer all de time.” 

I retired from the conference, and then Lewey blamed me for not keeping 
the doctor interested until he had cleared the plate. But we divided the 
spoil, and had a feast, although the steward did grumble at the total result 
of his afternoon’s work, and threatened to report to the captain unless cabin 
fare panned out better in the future. 

On the 9 ’di of March some one, on the steps of the custom house, waved 
a signal that. a boat was wanted, and we pulled on shore to bring him off. 
Mr. Cushing went with us, as he had nothing to do, and the old man desired 
to get him out of the ship, even for a few- moments, as they did not agree 
together very well, and the clerk gave himself airs that were not very be- 
coming to a person in his position. He had not found his proper level, and 
had an undue idea of his own importance, the captain thought. 

We pulled to the custom house, and found a gentleman waiting for us. 
He was dressed in half Mexican and'half American style of costume, had a 
fresh, healthy face, blue eyes, and was rather a good-looking man, with 
strong, square shoulders, and a muscular, well-knit form, as though capable 
of enduring great fatigue, as indeed we afterward found that he could, as he 
was able to ride from one end of the country to the other, and never com- 
plain of being tired. 


On Land and Sea. 


105 


“ Well, boys,” he said, as he stepped into the boat, “ I am Mr. Henry 
Melius, your supercargo and agent. Are you all well on board the ship ? ” 

“Quite we’l,” answered Cushing, extending his hand. “I am glad to 
see you.” 

“ And who are you, sir?” asked Mr. Melius, for he was not inclined to 
shake hands with every one. 

“ I am Mr. Cushing, and came out as assistant supercargo of the Admit- 
tance,” was the reply. 

“ Oh, did you ? ” was the cool response. “ Shove off, boys, and pull on 
board.” / 

Mr. Cushing chatted on quite freely, and told what he had done, and pro- 
posed to do, in the way of arranging the store room, and the agtnt seemed 
to be amused, and, at the same time, an indifferent listener, for he was busy 
scanning the proportions and appearance of our ship, as he said, — 

“ A nice-looking vessel, and very fast, I should judge. You have made 
the best passage that was ever known from Boston to California,” and not 
another word did he utter until we were alongside, and the mate swung the 
man-ropes, but, to our surprise, Mr. Cushing seized them, and went on 
deck, thus taking precedence of his superior. 

Mr. Melius smiled, and his red face flushed a little more vividly, as he 
was evidently annoyed. He did not speak, but went up the steps very com- 
posedly, saluted the mate by touching his hat politely, and then Mr. Cush- 
ing said, — 

“ Mr. Melius, allow me to introduce you to Captain Peterson,” another 
blunder which the agent did not fail to notice, for the captain should have 
been presented to Mr. Melius, as he was the superior. 

“ I need no introduction to Captain Peterson,” Mr. Melius said, in his 
calm and pleasant tones. “We have met quite frequently on the coast in 
former years.” 

“ Oh, have you?” asked Cushing. “I didn’t think of that. Now, if 
you will step below, I ’ll show you what I have done to display the cargo 
when it is ready.” 

“ Mr. Cushing,” said the agent, “ will you be kind enough to go to the 
store-room, and remain there until I call for you ? I have private business 
with the captain, and do not need your services just at present.” 

Poor Cushing took the hint, and went below, but it required more than 
that one rebuke to put him down, and keep him in his place. However, it 
was done at last, and most effectively, for Mr. Melius was a decided man. 
Even he and the captain did not always get along nicely together, and I did 


io6 


On Land and Sea. 


not wonder at it, for we had to do all the drudgery and dirty work, while the 
Barnstable, a ship belonging to the same owners, escaped scot free, and had 
easy times. 

The next day the Admittance was entered at the custom house, and we 
hoisted out the long-boat, carried many tons of goods on shore, and landed 
them on the beach, and then rolled the heavy boxes up the steep rocks in- 
to the building, where the cloths and silks could be examined at leisure by 
the Mexican officials. Luckily, Mr. Melius had enough influence with the 
custom-house people to induce them to consent to a partial look-over on 
board. It must have cost him several hundred dollars to do so, putting 
the money where it would do the most good, and those who have traded 
on the coast of California in early days, know what that means, without 
further explanation. 

It w’as cruel and wet work. We were “ turned to ” at four o’clock in the 
morning, before daybreak, and did not cease labor until six in the evening, 
with only half an hour for breakfast, and the same for dinner. No wonder 
English Jack grumbled, groaned, and swore that he would run away, and it 
required all the vigilance of the officers to keep the men, when on shore, 
from wandering toward Old Cook’s pulperia, the doors of which stood open, 
sending forth the aromatic odors of auguardiente, enough to drive a sailor 
crazy with desire for drink. Wet, hungry, and tired, we would knock off 
work in the evening, and then curse the man who discovered California, the 
people who inhabited the country, and the cattle that were raised there, and 
the owners who sent ships to gather hides, and the curses were sincere, 
and came from the very bottom of the tired men’s hearts. 

Yet the boys, who manned the quarter-boats, did not have such a hard 
time as the sailors. We were required to dress something after the style of 
man ol-war’s men, — blue flannel shirts, with white stars on tire collars, blue 
cloth trousers, leather belts, and bare feet. We could not be in the water 
all day and wear shoes and stockings, and very cold our toes used to be un- 
til warm weather set in, and then we liked the water, and the freedom of 
our costumes. We carried passengers from shore to ship, men, women, and 
children, all desirous of seeing the latest styles of goods from Boston, and 
all anxious to buy, and to have their accounts charged, to be paid for at 
some future period in hides and tallow, and when asked about the time the 
cueros would be forthcoming, the Mexicans would close their eyes, shrug 
their shoulders, and say, — 

“ Quien sabe.” 

They did n’t know, and never cared, when their debts would be paid. If 


On Land and Sea. 


io 7 


the rains were plentiful, and the grass strong and good, the cattle fattened, 
and in the spring-time were killed for the hides and tallow, and the debtor 
would send us one or two hundred of the former, and a lot of the latter, or 
despatch all to some rival ship. It made but little difference to the Mexican 
who got the prizes finally, as he owed every vessel on the coast, and was in 
no hurry to pay his debts. There was no way to compel a native to do so 
unless a large amount of bribery was resorted to by the Europeans, or 
Americans. Once in a while a rich man, like Don Noriego, of Santa Bar- 
bara, one of the best-hearted and most honest grandees of the country, 
would send us five hundred hides, at one time, but the occasions were rare. 
He always paid his debts very promptly, and it was a pleasure to sell his 
family goods, for he did n’t ask for six years’ credit, and then repudiate his 
obligations. 

It would not answer to refuse even the meanest ranchero what he desired, 
for if we did he would throw distrust on the ship, and prevent his neigh- 
bors from trading with us; or, perhaps, our agent might want to stop at his 
house some night, when riding through the country, and then where would 
his body be in the morning? As the Mexicans say, “Quien sabe.” Mr. 
Melius did not want to run any risk, and so, very considerately, charged 
the rich for what the poor took, and thanked the saints that the wants of 
the rancheros, in the way of luxuries, were few and far between, and not 
expensive. 

Some of the ladies we carried on board were extremely pretty, but most 
of them were rather pass£, old, wrinkled, and smelling of cigarette smoke. 
All the married women smoked, but I never saw a fashionable doncellita 
use tobacco in any form in public, although she might have done so in pri- 
vate, but, if she did, it was not considered comme il faut by good society, 
and she knew it, and so avoided being tabooed. The married senoras could 
smoke, and make corn-stalk leaf cigarettes all day, and not excite remark. 
It did not look badly, after a while, to see a pretty woman puffing out voB 
umes of smoke through nostrils and lips, in delightful freedom. As she 
never expectorated while indulging in the masculine pleasure, it was not so 
offensive as it might have been. 

We found lots of fun in transporting the ladies, for sometimes we had as 
many as seven young senoritas in the boat at one time, and I used to get 
very tired carrying them in my arms, and depositing them in the stern- 
sheets, so that they would not wet their feet, for we had to keep the boat 
head to the surf, and on each side a boy to hold it steady. I only found re- 
lief as soon as an elderly female approached. Then I would waive my 


io8 


O/i Land and Sea. 


rank, and tell Lewey and Tom to tackle her, but, when they rebelled, I had 
to fall back on Simple Davy, and it did not matter much to him, as I said 
before, whom he carried. One woman was as good as another, in his estima- 
tion. 

How those Monterey girls did chatter, under the careful charge of an old 
duenna, to keep them out of mischief, and the men at a distance. Lewey 
and I would pretend that we could not speak or understand a word of Span- 
ish, a d then they would let their thoughts run wild, and say things which 
they would not have uttered had they suspected that we were deceiving 
them. Their tongues did go as though hung in the middle, and, as they all 
talked at once, like their sisters of the Great Republic, and every other 
country, and in the usual high key, a flock of chattering magpies would 
have been distanced by those lively Mexican girls. As they were pretty 
we liked to hear them. 

They usually approached our boat very cautiously, and the old duenna 
would say, by way of introduction, — 

“ Buenos dias, muchachos.” 

This was put out as a feeler, but I would remove my hat, bow very polite- 
ly, and say, — 

No entender, senoritas.” 

I Then the old lady would try again, and exclaim, — 

“ Como sa va ? ” or “ How do you do ? ” 

To this we would, with one accord, reply, as before, — 

“ No entender, senoritas.” We did not understand. 

“ Oh, come along, girls,” the old lady would exclaim. “ These boys are 
gringos” (greenhorns), “ and don’t understand a word we say. We can 
talk before them without fear.” 

And they did, for they would boast of what they intended to buy, and did 
not care if they never paid for the articles purchased. Perhaps one or two 
might be contemplating marriage, and wanted to go on board to get the 
wedding finery, and then we heard some tilings that would startle us, and 
several times that bad boy of a Lewey, in his confusion and delight, would 
catch crabs, and tumble off his thwart, into the bottom of the boat, and 
laugh until I feared he would burst a blood-vessel, while the ladies would 
wonder what was the matter with the lad, and I excused him by tapping mv 
forehead, and whispering, — 

“ Poco loco,” or meaning that he was a little cracked, or crazy, and they 
never once suspected that I could speak more Spanish than they gave me 
credit for, until we landed them safely on the beach, and then Lewey, Tom, 


On Land and Sea. 


109 


and I would remove our fancy straw hats, with Admittance on the ribbons, 
and salute the pretty little dears with, — 

“ Buenos dias, senoritas. Salve todas, y venir usted aqui otra vez,” 
which was not the best of Spanish, but it answered our purpose at the time, 
and made the young girls giggle like boarding-school misses, and to scoot 
off home, and tell their female friends how they had been shamefully de- 
ceived by the gringos, and'yet all we said was, — 

“ Good-by, ladies, and may God bless you, and we hope you will come 
again.” 

The men would chat with us quite freely, and set us right when we made 
mistakes, which was very often, do all they could to instruct us, and never 
laughed at our blunders, as Americans do when foreigners try to speak 
English. They were too polite for that, even if they were not educated up 
to our standard of smartness. 

Mr. Dana has stated in his interesting book, that the real Mexican ladies 
were grossly immoral, but I think he unintentionally misrepresented s6me 
of the handsomest women in the world, for, during all the time I was on the 
coast, I never heard of a single case of domestic unfaithfulness on the part 
of the rich senoras, and such a thing as a young girl being led astray was 
not known, except in one case, and that was repaired by a speedy marriage. 

The Indian half-breed women were not patterns of goodness, but no one 
cared whether they were or not. The ladies were too carefully guarded to 
flirt with the opposite sex^and death would have avenged an insult, had 
one been offered by an unprincipled adventurer My testimony is not of 
much account, I know, but I have given it for what it is worth, and to do 
justice to some nice ladies of other days. 

And so the days went on, and we found ample opportunities to cultivate 
acquaintances. We had much work, and it was light and agreeable, but 
when Mr. Prentice found that we had some spare time on our hands, and set 
us to laboring on the cargo, or other matters, we grew discontented, and re- 
belled. We* refused to wear our boating suits while in the hold, or at other 
work of a dirty nature, for suddenly we would be called to man the boat, 
to carry traders on shore, and then we did not have time to change our cos- 
tumes, and the old man grumbled at our tarry suits. I told him we were in 
the water day and evening, and that we could not tar down rigging, paint 
spars, and slush topmasts, and keep neat at the same time. He saw the 
justice of the complaint, and told the mate to let us have as much time as lie 
could, and, after that point was settled, we got along very well. 

A few days after the ship was entered at the custom house a bag of a 


no 


On Land and Sea. 


thousand silver Mexican dollars was lowered into the boat, and, when we 
landed, Mr. Melius told me to shoulder it, and follow him. It was some- 
thing of a load, but I carried the burden to Don Alvarado’s house, which we 
found guarded by a wild looking, half-starved soldier, armed with an anti- 
quated musket, that I should not have dared discharge under any consid- 
eration. 

“ No venir aqui,” shouted the scare-crow, as he brought his musket to a 
charge to prevent our approach. He feared we had bills against the gov- 
ernor. 

“ Quedo amigo,” responded Mr. Melius. “ Este mucho plata,” or in other 
words, “ Be careful, friend. Here is much money.” 

The eyes of the soldier gleamed like those of a hungry wolf. He thought 
that there was a prospect of his getting some of his back salary out of that 
. bag of silver, but in this he was probably disappointed, for the Mexican of- 
ficials paid no one but the revolutionists, if possible to prevent it, and the 
governor could not afford to fool away money on soldiers, unless in a state 
of revolt, and they were most of the time, just because they could not ob- 
tain their wages, and were tempted by revolutionary chiefs. 

The soldier lowered his musket, and we passed into the house, where 
Don Alvarado, a good-looking man, in uniform, smoking cigarettes, wel- 
comed us, or, rather, the agent, and pointed to a table on which I was to 
dump the dollars, and, although the governor’s fingers were itching to get 
hold of the silver, he managed to appear quite calm, and to talk of the 
weather, and the news. 

“ You can go, Thom,” said Mr. Melius, although I should have preferred 
remaining, and taken a light and graceful part in the conversation between 
the gentlemen. 

I made a polite bow, and passed out, and at the door encountered the 
soldier sentinel. 

“ Holy virgin, sailor, how much money was there in that sack ? ” he ask- 
ed eagerly. 

“ A thousand dollars,” I answered. 

“ May the saints have me in their keeping, but I hope 1 shall get some of 
it,” was the exclamation, and it came from his heart. 

“ How much does the government owe you ? " I asked. 

“ Santa Maria, more than a year’s pay. But I will have some of that mon- 
ey, or know the reason why.” 

As there was no revolution for a month or two, I ’m inclined to think that 
the soldier received a few dollars as his share of our money, the first install- 


On La7id and Sea. 


m 


ment of the seven thousand which our agent had to pay in the shape of 
duties. 

The next Sunday the larboard watch was allowed to go on liberty, and all 
were cautioned not to get drunk, and to come off at sundown, under the 
most direful pains and penalties. As it was a saint’s day there were great 
preparations on land to celebrate it in a becoming manner. St. Anthony, 
or St. Peter, was to be honored, and we had been told that there was to be a 
bull-fight, and that a party of Caballeros were out near the Mission Carmel, 
hunting for grisly bears, to bait the bulls, and afford the inhabitants the 
usual amount of innocent amusement to which they had been accustomed 
all their lives, whenever a fete day was on the calendar, and they came very 
often in that country, in old times. 

Lewey was just wild to get on shore, and, so particular was he that no 
black mark should appear against his name, he even gave the galley a wide 
berth, for fear the temptation would be too much for his inclinations, and he 
might get caught, and kept on board as punishment. 

On Sunday morning, as soon as the decks were washed down, the brass 
work cleaned, and the ship put in tip-top condition for the day, the mate 
went forward, and told his watch to get ready for going on shore for liberty. 
Then there was the usual scrubbing and cleaning, and new clothes were 
got out, and each man received two silver dollars to pay for his enjoyment. 
It was not a large sum, but Old Cook had most of it before sundown, as a 
matter of course. We boys were each given the munificent donation of 
two reals, which made us feel like bloated bond-holders of the present day, 
but, as we had picked up some money during the week, and I had a little 
fortune, in the shape of nearly a hundred dollars, to draw on, we did not 
grumble, for our whole thoughts were centred on the fun we were to have, 
and the liberty we were to enjoy. 

We despatched our breakfast in a hurry, and dressed. I had a little bet- 
ter wardrobe than Lewey, and, among other articles, six pairs of very nice 
white cotton stockings. As the French boy looked at them with longing 
eyes I gave him one set, to his intense delight. We did not dare to dress 
as well as we could have done, for fear our shipmates would think we were 
putting on airs, so all the boys in the watch contented themselves with blue 
shirts, silk handkerchiefs around their necks, blue trousers, and very neat, 
low shoes, well calculated to show to advantage our clean white stockings. 
On our heads we wore sennit hats, with broad ribbons, and Admittance on 
them in gold letters, in humble imitation of the man-of-war’s men. 

At ten o’clock we passed over the side, and were pulled ashore in the 


On Land and Sea. 


1 12 


pinnace, and the last words Mr. Prentice said to us, in a tone of voice that 
was well calculated to make us feel pleasant and comfortable, were, — 

“ If you boys get into any mischief I ’ll skin you alive when you come on 
board,” and then he grinned, as if he really believed his warning was ef- 
fectual. 

As soon as the boat touched the beach we jumped on shore, and walked 
toward the town, and even at that early hour we could see that preparations 
had been made for a magnificent Sunday demonstration. The main street 
was full of Indians, dressed with long hair, and not much else ; elegant and 
graceful-looking caballeros were dashing up and down on spirited horses, 
giving the numerous dogs no peace or rest, while from the plaza came the 
ding of bells, summoning the good people to mass and prayers, as a slight 
relish tor the feast that was to come afterward. 

“ Hullo, boys,” shouted Old Cook, as we passed his pulperia, and the 
seamen could not withstand his cordial salutation. “ Come in, lads, and see 
me for a while.” 

They hesitated for a moment only, for they had heard that Cook’s augu- 
ardiente, at a real a glass, had more fight in it than all the rest in town, and 
that it could burn the throat and stomach quicker than any other brand. 
They went in, and anchored, but Lewey, Tom, Davy, and myself kept on, 
after declining an invitation to take a glass with the rest, just to set us up 
for the day. 

All around the plaza were groups of Indians, squatting on the ground, 
and gambling with sticks. We stopped, and watched the game with some 
curiosity, but could not make head or tail of it. One buck would take a 
number of short sticks in his hands, manipulate them rapidly back and 
forth, before and behind, and at the same time utter grunts like this : — 

“ Ugh ! ugh ! ugh ! ugher ! ” 

Then he would stop, and some one pointed with his hand, and the ma- 
nipulator showed the sticks, and he had lost or won, I could not tell which, 
but there was always a shout, and a whole avalanche of howls and gutturals. 
I should have enjoyed seeing more of the game very much, and learning 
what it was all about, but Lewey, in his usual quiet way, drew four fire- 
crackers from his pocket (he had a dozen bunches in chest, on board, for he 
was fond of fire works, or feu d’artifice, as he called them in his French 
tongue), lighted all by the aid of a cigarette, and threw the smoking emblems 
of Chinese mischief under the haunches of the biggest and fattest buck of 
the party. 

There was a cracking discharge, a loud yell, and one Indian jumped into 


On Land and Sea. 


“3 


the air as though shot out of a cannon, and, clapping his hands on the after 
portion of his body, bounded over his companions, and passed out of sight, 
around the corner of an adobe house. 

The others answered the yell, and scattered in all directions. They 
thought that a new revolution had broken out, and that the soldiers 
were impressing the Indians for the purpose of serving in the army, and do- 
ing all the fighting, as was customary in the country. 

I should have rebuked Lewey, but I could not just then, as I wanted 
some of the crackers, so he shared them with me, and said, — 

“ Did you see him jump ? Oh, my goodness, I dinks I dies laughin’.” 

We left the vicinity as rapidly as possible, and then found that we were 
near the chapel, in front of which were six Indians, all pulling at the raw- 
hide ropes connected with the bell-clappers, and summoning the faithful to 
prayers. We went in, removed our hats very reverentially, and saw some 
old women and men on their knees, repeating pater-nosters, or their beads, 
but, as there were no pretty girls present, we did not care to remain. There 
were three or four oil paintings hanging near the altar, and a fat priest was 
repeating the services in Latin, and condemning every one who did not con- 
form to the true religion, and contribute liberally to the church. Lewey 
crossed himself with a few drops of holy water, taken from the font at the 
door, and then said that he was good for a year at least. His ideas of good- 
ness and consistency were rather vague, I am afraid. 

As we left the chapel the Indians gave a stiff peal, as though making one 
last, frantic effort to get the people to turn out, and come to mass. The 
perspiration streamed down their backs and faces, and they smelled so 
strong that we were glad to get to the windward of them, while watching 
their labors. All of a sudden the fellows ceased, as if by common consent, 
squatted on the -ground, and commenced gambling with sticks, and their 
gutturals were mingled with the chants of the priest. After a refreshing 
game the Indians dropped their sticks, jumped to their feet, and rang in 
such a peal that even the dogs howled in chorus at being awakened. 

“ I ’d like to,” muttered the French lad, and put his hands in his pockets, 
but I knew that there was danger in using too many fire-crackers thus early 
in the day, like a boy on the morning of the Fourth of July, so I dragged 
him away. I should like to have seen those Indians jump as they labored 
at the bells, but I put the temptation out of sight, for the time being. 

We wandered along, and came to Mr. Larkin’s house, and saw him and 
the old man sitting on the piazza, having a comfortable smoke, and talking 
over trade, hides, and tallow. 


On Land and Sea. 


1 14 


Mr. Larkin beckoned us to come toward him, while the captain survey- 
ed us with pride’, proud to think that he had three such noble, nice-looking 
boys under his command. Of course we did not count Davy as one of us, 
for he was an ordinary seaman, and not a boy, being over twenty-one years 
of age. At least we thought the captain had some such reflections, for he 
said, as we approached the piazza, — 

“ If you boys get into any scrapes I ’ll skin you alive tomorrow.” 

The very words Mr. Prentice had used when we left the ship, showing 
that one of them must have plagiarized, and we never knew which was en- 
titled to the original remark. It should have been copyrighted, for we 
heard it often enough during the voyage. 

“ Oh, let the boys alone,” said Mr. Larkin, with a pleasant smile. “ I ’m 
sure they are good, honest boys, and mean to enjoy themselves on this their 
liberty day on shore.” 

“ You does not know dem like me,” was the captain’s answer. “ Dey is 
in mischief all de time.” 

“ Oh, they are nice lads, and an honor to any ship,” Mr. Larkin said. 
“ Now, boys, when you get hungry at twelve o’clock or so, come here, and 
I ’ll give you a dish of frijoles and bread. My cook will tend to you.” 

We thanked the kind-hearted gentleman, and then roamed around the 
town. Mr. Cushing and a party of midshipmen rode by on horse-back, 
and Lewey once more offered to give us an exhibition of the power of fire- 
crackers, by putting a couple under Cushing’s horse, and see if the animal 
would not run away, and break the young fellow’s neck. 

But I coaxed my chum not to do so, as it might be the means of injuring 
the horse. Beside, the midshipmen were more numerous and stronger than 
our party, reasons which convinced him that it was advisable to take my 
advice, and restrain his fun for the time being. 

In front of the poorer houses we saw families seated, enjoying the de- 
licious fragrance of the air, for the hills were covered with green grass, and 
the valleys filled with wild flowers, hundreds of different varieties being 
seen within the space of an acre, and the pine-trees were odorous with their 
balsams. The sun shone down warm and bright, and the place seemed a 
paradise to me then, and I thought I should like to live there forever, and 
do nothing but ride horse-back, and dance with the pretty doncellitas. All 
the Mexicans greeted us pleasantly, and invited us to enter their houses, 
but we did not have time to accept every invitation. 

At last we heard the twanging of a guitar, not a very musical one, and 
then the notes of a woman, a shrill, falsetto-like voice, not sweet or soft, 


On Land and Sea. 


US 


and we entered the house where she was singing, and saw a fat, oily, frowsy 
female, with a dilapidated guitar in her lap, which she was strumming in a 
languishing manner, and howling, with eyes rolling upward, the words, — 

“ Que se yo, que se vo, que se yo? 

Caro amor, caro amor.” 

Which in English meant, “ How do I know, dear love ? ” 

We thought she was old enough to understand all of its mysteries, and 
big enough, but we did not say so, only clapped our hands, and murmured 
in subdued tones the simple word, — 

“ Bueno,” and the tender little thing stopped singing, and said that we 
were good and polite boys, and that she liked us very much, but we could 
not be pursuaded to remain and hear another song, although her husband 
asked us to do so, and the lady seconded the appeal, with a sentimental 
glance that would have melted the heart of an old battered man-of-war’s 
man, had he been present. 

The next house that was entered we found a guitar and harp in full blast, 
and a group of old women ranged around the room. The floor was of earth, 
beaten hard, and swept clear of litter, and on the floor were half a dozen 
young people enjoying a fandango, the national dance of the country. The 
girls did not move about very lively, but shuffled their feet, and held their 
arms down at their sides, in a stiff and constrained manner, and did not 
look at their partners at all, but the men made amends for the coldness of 
the women, and cavorted all around them, and struck some very graceful 
attitudes, as they advanced and retreated, now repelled, and again encour- 
aged, by the fickle girls, while every moment the old ladies would lift their 
hands, and clap them together, and shout out, at the top of their voices, — 

“ Bueno, bueno ! ” 

We joined in the cry, and also clapped our hands with the rest, and that 
pleased them, for two young girls came toward Lewey and myself, and, be- 
fore we were aware of their intention, they had snatched the hats from our 
hands, put them on their heads, and retired to the other end" of the room. 
Then all laughed at the challenge, for it was an invitation to waltz, as near 
as we could judge. 

We were anxious to recover our hats as soon as possible, for certain rea- 
sons. We had cockroaches on board, and since we had anchored at Mon- 
terey large numbers of fleas, but we did not care for another kind of brand, 
as we had seen some of the poorer class of young girls seated at their 


On Land and Sea. 



1 1 6 


doors in the morning, examining each other’s heads, and the act looked a 
little suspicious, for we did not know but they might have found something. 
But we could not refuse a challenge from two good-looking young females, 
even if they did not belong to the aristocracy of the place. 

“ By gracious, I goes for von of dem,” said the impetuous Lewey, and I 
took the other laughing girl. 

The musicians struck up a dreamy, old Spanish waltz, and I put my arm 
around the waist of a flashing, black-eyed, dark-haired little girl, and she 
cuddled up to me, and murmured in my ear, as her form began to sway, — 

“ Mas fuerte, muchacho,” just like one of our modern belles, when her 
partner does not hold her tight enough to please her ideas of what is proper 
and graceful. 

I put on the pressure, and round we went, to the intense delight of the 
old ladies, for it is quite probable that they had never seen an American or 
French boy waltz before. I had taken some lessons when I little suspected 
that I should ever exhibit my best steps to an audience of Mexican men 
and women. Where Lewey learned to waltz I did not know until some 
months afterward, when he revealed his history, and then I discovered that 
he was no ordinary sailor, but one born in affluence, and had great love for 
travel and adventure. Now he is an admiral in the service of the French 
Republic, and during the Prussian war did most excellent duty on land 
even if his fleet remained inactive on the water. He has a title to his name, 
and is not ashamed to use it, if he did sail in the American merchant marine 
when young, for there is no part of his life that he looks back to with more 

pleasure than his California experience. The Count de G has no cause 

to feel degraded by his career, except when he refused to listen to my ad- 
vice, and to be guided by me in all matters that related to his good and mor- 
al welfare. 

Now I know that my readers will say that I am romancing, and that such 
a thing as a young and noble-born French boy serving as a sailor on an 
American vessel could not have taken place, but is it more improbable than 
the simple fact that on the 17th of July, 1879, j ust thirty-six years from the 
time I was carrying hides on my head at San Diego, the nephew of one of 
the owners was married to my only daughter ? and at the wedding were Cap- 
tain Peterson and his wife, the same dark-eyed lady he used to sigh for 
when captain of the Admittance, now grown to be a handsome and stately 
matron, very tolerant of her husband’s yarns and tobacco smoke, and, at that 
same wedding, the captain put his hand on my shoulder, and told the as- 
sembled guests, to my modest surprise and delight, — 


On Land and Sea. 


”7 




“ This gentleman was with me as a boy on the coast of California, and I 
want to say this, to prevent any misapprehension, that he was the best lad I 
ever had with me, in any part of the world, and now let us drink to the 
bride.” 

Alas, I fear that the captain was romancing, or that the champagne had 
caused his memory to become a little defective, for I would have sworn that 
I did give Tiiixi some trouble and anxiety when we sailed together, many 
years ago. 

Now one romance is no more singular than the other, and I can vouch as 
to the wedding, and also regarding Lewey, for in this biographv I confine 
myself to facts, and not fiction. It will be noticed that the captain’s Eng- 
lish has improved, for he has now forgotten his mother tongue, and speaks 
as well as a native born. But I have always felt a little sorry that he 
praised me so earnestly in the presence of company, for it made me very 
vain for several weeks, and more than once has it been intimated to me that 
if I was so good when I was a boy, it is a great pity that I should have out- 
grown it as a man. It is useless to mention the one who speaks so sarcas- 
tically, because I am married, and do not wish any discussion on the sub- 
ject. 

But all this has nothing to do with the Mexican half-breed girls, whom 
Lewey and I were waltzing with, little thinking of the future, or caring 
about it, as long as we were enjoying ourselves, and in the company of 
young girls, and very handsome they seemed in our eyes, even if they were 
stockingless, and had only light slippers on, just large enough to hold two 
toes, and how they could keep them on their feet, and waltz, was a mystery 
which no savant has endeavored to explain. Even the most famous of 
scientific men have avoided the subject, as though it was too complicated 
for investigation. 

The girls were not elaborately dressed, wearing but two garments, an in- 
ner one, the name of which I have forgotten, and a skirt, descending from 
the waist as far as the ankles, or a little above them, when the movement of 
the music was somewhat more lively than usual. The inner garment, which 
the French, I think, call chemise, was without sleeves, and cuFso low in the 
neck, that even a fashionable, ball-room young lady would have been envious, 
and my modesty, during that waltz, caused me to look up instead of down, 
as is the modern custom of dancing. How we did enjoy that valse, and, 
amid the clapping of hands, and the shouts of the old women, the young 
girls would place their lips close to our ears, and whisper, — 

“ Fuerte, marineros,” when the fact of it was we were holding them as 


On Land and Sea. 


118 


firmly as possible, and could not have squeezed a pound more to the square 
inch had our lives depended on the result. 

“ Bueno, muchachos, bueno, muchachas,” roared the old women, in an 
agony of delight, expressing themselves to the effect that we were good 
boys, and good girls. 

Tom and Simple Davv caught the infection and the spirit. They threw off 
their hats, dashed into the open space, and commenced a double shuffle. 
Then all the men joined in the shouts which the old ladies uttered, and the 
clapping of hands was something to be remembered for many long da)s. 
The perspiration streamed down the faces of the girls, and their breaths 
came quick and hot, and the pores of their skin threw off a musk-like odor, 
but we cared for nothing but the fun we were having, and round and round 
we whirled, until we were brought up all standing by hearing a harsh voice 
at the door saying, — 

“You, boys, jist valk yourselves out of dis. I should be ashamed of my- 
self if I vas a boy, to do such dings. I sends you on board de ship if you 
does not keep out of dese places, and sich company,” and there stood Cap- 
tain Peterson, with an awful look of disgust on his face, examining us from 
the doorway. 

We wished the old man miles away, or in some comfortable warm place, 
and then stopped the waltz, as we could not disobey orders, but we wonder- 
ed how the captain would like it had he been interrupted at a dance, and 
they were very frequent in California. Once, at Ranche Refugio, one Sun- 
day, the captain made me waltz with a pretty little girl, only twelve years 
old, but then girls were married at that age in California, and were grand- 
mothers at thirty, or less. 

Once I asked the captain why he objected to our dancing with the young 
girls who wore only two garments, and no stockings, and he was quite in- 
dignant, as he answered, — 

“ Ven I tells you to dance it is vid a nice lady, and not vid de scum,” just 
as though Lewey and I cared who we danced with, as long as we had livelv 
partners, and they were girls with black eyes. We were not afraid of being 
corrupted. In fact, we defied them to do it. We were perfectly confident 
of our own goodness, and thought the old man ought to let us alone, but he 
did not, for he would hunt us from one end of the town to the other, and at 
last we had to put Davy on the watch, outside of some house, where 
dancing was going on, and when he saw the captain heave in sight, he 
would put his head in the door, and whisper, — 

“ Here comes Peter,” and then we would light out at the back windows, 


On Land and Sea. 


1 19 


and lie in ambush until all danger was passed. His rigid ideas of propriety 
caused us to act deceptive parts, very much against our will and honest in- 
clinations. 

We dropped our charming little partners, and walked out of the building, 
but not until I had slipped into the hands of the young ladies two four-real 
pieces, and they received them with many thanks, and express invitations 
to come again as soon as we could. At the same time they consigned the 
captain to a place not worth mentioning just at this moment, for his inter 
ference in our pleasures. 

We walked along a short distance, the captain leading the way, when sud- 
denly I missed Lewey. He had dropped behind for some purpose, and, 
when he regained our party, he was out of breath with running, and had a 
guilty look on his flushed face. 

“ Where have you been ? ” I asked. 

“ Oh, no vere, not much,” he answered, and then I happened to glance at 
his feet, and saw that he was stockingless. The bad boy had hurried back 
to the house, pulled off the white socks which I had given him in the morn- 
ing, and presented them to the girl he had danced with. He looked a little 
abashed as soon as he saw that I had made the discovery of his generosity, 
but he murmured, in his usual hearty way, and in bad English, — 

“ I no help it. She ’em vant berry much, and she dance so booful, and it 
long time ’fore I had a valse like dat. Ah, mon ami, you me pardon, vill 
you not ? ” 

“ Certainly, Lewey,” and I had half a mind to run back, and give my part- 
ner my stockings, also. But then, I paid her for her trouble in the dance. 
“ You shall have another pair from my chest as soon as we get on board.” 

“ Ah, merci, mon bon ami,” the lad said. Then he made a face at the 
captain’s hat, so ludicrous that we all roared with laughter, and the old man 
turned around, and wanted to know what little game we were up to ? Lew- 
ey pointed to a drunken Indian, who was rolling in the street, and yelling 
himself hoarse, as the cause of our mirth, but it was the captain’s white hat 
the noble beaver, in which he took so much pride, that had excited Levvey’s 
sudden mirth. As it was a fete day the captain had mounted- it in honor of 
the occasion, to the intense surprise of the Mexicans and Indians. 

As it was now twelve o’clock, we felt as hungry as boys with good appe- 
tites usually feel at that hour of the day, and recollected Mr. Larkin’s invi- 
tation to dinner. As the captain was going to the merchant’s house, we all 
followed in his wake, and refused the importunities of men and women to 
enter their humble abodes, and see what they were like. We passed Mr. 


120 


On Land and Sea. 


Prentice, who was wandering about in a disconsolate manner, not good 
enough for the merchants, and not equal to the captains in position. Chief 
mates did not, as a general thing, enjoy themselves on shore. They could 
not associate with the masters of vessels, and would not mix with the men, 
at the grog shops, and there was no chance for amusement anywhere else, 
so, as a general thing, the first officers of ships were glad enough to return 
on board, and blank California to the other mates, when they met. 

When we arrived at Mr. Larkin’s that gentleman told us to go into the 
kitchen, and his cooks would give us something to eat, and they did. We 
had frijoles, the best bean that ever grew, it seems to me at this late date, 
tortillas, bread, real soft-tack, and a bottle of native wine, a little better than 
Cook’s, but to its influence we must attribute all of our misdeeds that after- 
noon, and they were many, when we think of them at this late day. 

No one could have ventured to predict at this time that California would, 
under the careful cultivation of Germans and Americans, raise enough 
grapes to manufacture a sufficient quantity of wine and brandy to supply the 
whole of the United States, and part of Europe. Grapes, in 1843, were 
cultivated at Santa Barbara, and at Pueblo Los Angeles, but there was not 
much science or patience devoted to the vines, and irrigation was almost 
unknown. It is said that the wines of California, at the present day, equal 
the best in the world, and we hope the report is true, but in olden times the 
native liquors were harsh, and far from palatable, and on that account Mr. 
Larkin made a mistake in giving us a bottle of wine with our dinner, for 
we were not accustomed to it, and it stimulated us to deeds of daring we 
should not have thought .of at other times. He meant all for the best, but 
discovered his mistake before the close of the afternoon. 



THE CAPTAIN CAUGHT UP THE LADY IN HIS ARMS, AND RAN. 


PART FIFTH. 

LIBERTY ON SHORE AT MONTEREY. — DINNER AT MR. LARKIN’S. — THE 
EFFECTS OF A BOTTLE OF NATIVE WINE. — THE BOYS HAVE A LITTLE 
FUN HORSE-BACK RIDING. — SOME MORE FIRE-CRACKERS. — THE CAP- 
TAIN AND THE BEARS. — HE TALKS SPANISH. — ARRIVALS. — SAIL HO. 

X T fE did enjoy our dinner, thanks to the kindness of Mr. Larkin, and we 
* * ate all that was set before us by the surprised cooks, who feared a 
corner in beans and tortillas, so sharp were our appetites. But the wine 
did the business for us, as I have said, and had it not been for that bottle of 
vino we should have been an honor to the ship, and joy to the captain’s 
heart. As I stated before, a person who drank a bottle of native California 
wine, as made in those days, felt a strong inclination to steal a horse, or 
commit some terrible, depraved deed, and we were no exception to the gen- 
eral rule, for, as soon as we finished the liquor, we had a strong desire to 
return, and conclude our waltzes with the young ladies, but were prudent 
enough to know that the captain had his eye on us, and would be displeased 
if we disobeyed his commands. We did not care so much for his frowns as 
at the idea of being caught, and deprived of liberty for some Sundays to 
come. 



122 


On Land and Sea. 


Now some high-toned boys, who had been accustomed to dining in com- 
fortable mansions, eating off of china, and with a servant at their backs to 
help pass the dishes, would have turned up their noses at the idea of feast- 
ing in the kitchen of a Mexican house, and in the company of half-civilized 
Indians, but we were not that kind of boys. We were prepared to take all 
the good things that fell in our way, and not grumble and find fault at the 
manner in which they came, as long as we got hold of them. I have read 
of impulsive, proud-spirited sailors, who refused to associate with cooks, but 
we were never haughty when we could get something good to eat, in the 
kitchens at Monterey, or Santa Barbara. 

I have sat down to many a well-loaded table, where wines, old and costly, 
flowed like water, and where governors, senators, lords, and rich men were 
present in abundance, in this country, and in Europe, but I don’t believe I 
ever enjoyed a dinner as much as I did that Sunday afternoon at Mr. Lar- 
kin's, and I wish that he was still alive to read this tribute to his praise, and 
the rude skill of his cooks. We had just arrived, after a long passage, 
lived on salt junk and hard-tack, and now that we were ashore our relish for 
fresh food was something to be remembered, even to this day. 

After we had concluded our modest repast, we thanked Mr.. Larkin, and 
went off in quest of further adventures, for the wine had made us impatient 
for more fun. The first persons we met were rancheros, mounted on splen- 
did horses, who had come to town to see the sights, dance fandangos, and 
end by getting drunk, and having quiet little fights among themselves, in 
which they used knives, and their heavy spurs, with commendable dexteri- 
ty, often slashing each other’s heads and faces in a very picturesque man^ 
ner. One of the rancheros, the most villainous-looking of the party, offer- 
ed, in a hospitable manner, to let us ride his horse, and Lewey accepted 
this act of kindness in the same free and frank manner in which it was prof- 
fered. The boy mounted, after being cautioned about using the cruel curb, 
a bit so powerful that a horse’s jaw could be broken even by a gentle pull, 
if desirable. 

The French lad was elated. He was not much of a rider, like many of 
his sailor countrymen, but any one. could ride a California broncho in those 
days, for the pace was a gentle lope, and the saddles were deep and heavy, 
and the stirrups huge blocks of wood, with holes for the feet, and there was 
an iron pummel, over which the reata was coiled, a rope made of horses’ 
hair, or rawhide well plaited, and nearly as strong as steel wire of half the 
size. 

“ Me off,” shouted Lewey, as he crawled into the saddle, and settled his 


On Land and Sea. 


123 


feet and person firmly, and there was a smile of satisfaction on his good- 
looking face. 

“ Vamous,” shouted the ranchero, and he struck the noble horse on his 
flank, and away he went, and Lewey’s hat fell off at the first rush, and the 
animal dashed down toward the plaza at a rapid gait, to the intense delight 
of the little naked children, who were around, with stomachs distended and 
bloated-like balloons. Both sexes fared alike in regard to clothing, for all 
were destitute of even a long head of hair to cover their bodies, mothers 
finding it much easier ta pursue certain investigations when the hair was 
sawed off by the aid of dull case-knives, or blunt razors. 

“ That cursed heretic will kill somebody if he is not careful,” a Mexican 
growled, and I feared that he would, but then I knew Lewey was a very 
considerate boy, and always had his wits about him, and, when I saw an old 
woman almost under his horse’s feet, and yet, wonderful to relate, escape 
unhurt, only losing her siippers, and a coarse mantilla, I was aware that 
confidence in my chum was not misplaced, and I felt more proud of him 
than ever^ and his wonderful accomplishments. 

On he dashed, then turned his horse suddenly, and swayed in the saddle, 
but clung to the pommel, and was saved from falling. He came toward us 
at full speed, and without the slightest regard for those in the street, like the 
careless, good-natured boy that he was, and the Mexicans, just as though 
there could be danger where Lewey had the management of affairs, began 
to take shelter in the nearest open houses, and to shut the doors, and then 
look out of the windows, the only safe places, they seemed to think, and 
they were right. 

“ Mira, mira,” shouted an old Mexican. “ Adios, yo vamous muy vivo,” 
which meant, if I know anything of Spanish, that we were to look at the 
sailor, that God would have to watch over us, and he meant to take the first 
chance and get out of the way. I don’t pretend to be a Spanish scholar, 
but I am under the impression that it is what the man meant, as far as I can 
recollect at this late day. At any rate he dodged behind the nearest adobe- 
house corner, and looked out from his safe retreat for the final catastrophe, 
which he was sure would come. 

But how the people misjudged the lad. He did not pretend to guide the 
horse, because he did not know that it was necessary to press the rein on 
the neck, instead of tugging at the bits, and, although several scurvy-look- 
ing curs rushed at the animal, and barked, Lewey paid no attention to those 
which he did not ride over, but came in all of a glow, and the horse only 
stopped because his owner made a sign, which was well understood, thus 


124 


On Land and Sea . 


Lewey’s shipmates were saved being mangled through the sagacity of the 
spirited brute. 

“ Dat bery good,” said the boy as he dismounted. “ I ’d like to ride all 
day same as dat,” but, as the Mexican feared that the census of Monterey 
would show a decided decrease in the next returns, if Lewey was allowed 
to continue his equestrian exercise, further indulgence was prohibited, but 
the ranchero intimated that I could have a chance if I wanted to, and I 
was very willing, for it appeared to me as though Lewey was inclined to 
assume an air of superiority after he had charged through the streets of the 
town, and nearly maimed a dozen old women, and several big-bellied chil- 
dren, not counting the dogs killed and badly wounded. 

Just as I was climbing into the saddle, Tom said, — 

“ Hurry up, old fellow. Here comes Peter, hat and all, on the dead run.” 

I looked up the street, and saw our respected captain bearing down upon 
us, and waving his arms in a frantic manner, as though brushing aside a 
number of vivacious hornets. We thought he was encouraging us to have 
a little more equestrian exercise in the crowded streets, and that he was 
glad his boys were having so much enjoyment on shore, but, for fear we 
might be mistaken, Tom and Lewey thought it expedient that I should not 
stand upon the order of my riding, but ride at once, and listen to his words 
of praise afterward, when he should interview us, and tell in plain language 
what he really thought of our doings on shore. 

“ Away you go,” said Tom. « Peter is yelling himself hoarse, he is so 
pleased with us,” and away I did go, and, as I went off on a lope, I glanced 
over my shoulder, and saw the rest of my messmates dodging around adobe 
buildings. The old man had stopped, removed his beaver hat, and was 
wiping his heated brow with an intensely red silk handkerchief, and looking 
after me and the horse, with admiration and respect beaming from his blue 
eyes. But I did not quite understand why he should shake his fist at me, 
unless it was the custom of the country, and the usual method of showing 
great appreciation of certain acts, very difficult to perform by ordinary peo- 
ple. 

As I did not dare to go through the town after Lewey’s exploits, I rode 
along the fine beach, as the tide was low, and the sand smooth. I knew 
that I could not run over any one there. The horse liked it, and I liked it, 
and we kept on until I came to an old wreck, blown ashore during some 
northeaster, and there I turned, and walked the animal slowly back to the 
town, and by this time the captain had disappeared; gone back to Mr. Lar- 
kin’s quite probably, to boast of the goodness of his boys, while Lewey, 


On Land and Sea. 


125 


Tom, and Davy came out of their hiding-place, and rejoined me, full of con- 
gratulations. 

I relinquished the horse to the care of the ranchero, and was walking off, 
after profuse thanks, when the fellow halted us, and held out his hand, with 
an angry expression of countenance, and said, — 

“ Dos pesos,” which meant that he did not let us have his horse for noth- 
ing, and wanted two dollars. 

“ No entender,” we replied, intimating to him that we did not understand 
his Mexican lingo, and continued to move off, for we did not like his looks 
and gestures. 

“ Dos pesos," shrieked the fellow, as he danced after us, walking on the 
tip of his toes, his spurs being so large that he could not put his heels to 
the ground. 

“ No entender,” was our response, and this only increased the greaser’s 
rage, for he stooped down, and, by a quick motion of his hand, unbuckled 
his huge spurs, and came toward us as though he meant business, and no 
doubt he did. 

“ Que quiere usted ? ” I asked, although I knew he wanted two dollars, a 
disagreeable surprise to us, for we thought we were having a little fun with- 
out expense. 

“ Caramba, dar mio dos pasos,” yelled the Mexican, and rushed at us 
with his spurs waving in the air, and showing every disposition to strike me 
with the ugly-looking instruments of torture. 

There was no one near to protect three innocent little boys from the fierce 
brute’s violence. We should have been glad had Captain Peterson hove in 
sight just at that time, but he was probably relating numerous instances of 
his boys’ gentleness and goodness, and did not suspect that we were in 
trouble. 

“ He ’s an ingrat,” muttered the French boy, meaning that the greaser 
was ungrateful, and we thought so also, although we did not express it in 
such choice words. 

“Caramba,” howled the Mexican, “ ladrones, marranos, gringos, malea- 
dors,” meaning that we were thieves, cursed hogs, greenhorns, and a bad 
lot altogether. 

“ Usted muy jocoso,” I replied, meaning that the greaser was funny, and, 
instead of taking it as a compliment, the fellow made a lunge at me with his 
spurs, and I narrowly escaped a dangerous wound on the head. 

“ Prenez garde,” said Lewey in French, meaning for me to be careful, and 
then he suddenly stooped, picked up a stone, and launched it full at the 


126 


On Land and Sea. 


head of the Mexican. It struck him just over his nose, right between the 
eyes, and he went down as if shot through the heart, and laid on the ground 
bleeding like a stuck pig, quite senseless. 

“ Vamous,” I cried, and left the man where he fell, and some persons 
must have lifted him up, and carried him home, for we saw no more of him 
that afternoon. 

We were wandering along, after that little episode, and wondering what 
we should do next, when a big Indian, half drunk, swaggered toward us, 
and, in an impudent manner, demanded some tobacco. To my surprise 
Lewey said that he would supply the fellow’s wants, and, to our great joy, 
pulled out one of his cherished fire-crackers, and handed it to the native, 
who put it in his mouth, thinking that it was some kind of cigarette, of re- 
cent Yankee pattern. He then made a motion to give him a light. Lewey 
struck a match, and touched the slender thread that led to the powder por- 
tion of the cracker. 

The Indian sucked away with drunken complacency, but when the fuse 
fizzed he appeared a little surprised, and was still more astonished when the 
explosion occurred. He uttered a howl tint made the Mexican army trem- 
ble with fear, under the impression that the Indians had revolted, and were 
about to begin a work of extermination. The beggar of tobacco gave a 
mighty bound, ran yelling down the street, and joined his friends, and 
we began to think that we should have rather a dull afternoon on shore un- 
less something turned up to amuse us, and while thus ruminating we saw a 
cock-fight going on, with the principal men in. town surrounding the ring, 
and betting their pesos and reals with all who would cover tlieir stakes, va- 
quaro or Indian, merchant or sailor, it made no difference as long as there 
was a chance to win money. 

We stood and watched the sport for some time, but did not find it very 
lively, and were thinking of going away, when two large and fierce cocks 
were introduced, and all the interest of the hour seemed centred in them. 
We learned from the murmurs that passed from one to another that these 
were the boss fighters of Monterey, and that large sums of money were 
wagered on their respective qualities. Their heels were armed with steel 
gaffs, sharp as needles, and there was blood in their eyes as they were 
placed opposite to each other in the ring by the attendants. 

Bets were made freely on the black or brown bird ; but just as every one 
had staked his last dollar, and the cocks were squaring off at each other, 
some person threw half a bunch of fire-crackers in the ring, and the birds, 
with shrill cackles of astonishment, flew to the roofs of neighboring adobe 


On Land and Sea. 


127 


houses, and there crowed defiance at each other, and the swearing crowd. 
I believe that all bets were declared off by the umpire, but we did not stop 
to wait for his decision, as every one was asking, in the most bewildered 
manner, the natural question, — 

“ Que este ? ” or “ What is it ? ” and I did not blame the Mexicans for 
feeling astonished, for the crackers sounded like a fusillade of musketry, and 
men thought that another revolution had surely broken out, for the purpose 
of getting possession of the few hundred dollars at the governor's house, or 
among the merchants, quite an inducement for some enterprising leader of 
the people to lift up his voice for the people. 

We skipped away from the crowd, unnoticed and unmolested, as all 
the Mexicans were talking at the same time, and trying to account for the 
phenomenon that had deprived them of a chance to make or lose a few dol- 
lars. The priests debated if they had not better preach a sermon on the 
event, and so get up a revival. 

As we wandered around, we saw, near the edge of the plaza, two country 
carts, rude and strong vehicles, with wheels made from the solid trunk of 
some hard-wood tree, with round holes in the centre, to admit the axles. On 
these carts were extended two large bears, of a dirty gray color, and each 
animal must have weighed at least five hundred pounds. They had been 
lassooed the day before, near the Carmel Mission, by a band of expert 
horsemen, and brought to town to afford amusement to several wild bulls, 
and the people generally. 

Here was something that was worth studying. We were all fond of nat- 
ural history, and even Simple Davy was stirred up enough to say, — 

“ By gosh, them is busters, a'n’t they ? Darned if I ever seed anything 
like ’em in old Vermont, in all my days.” 

The hunters had made “spread eagles ” of the bears, by extending their 
enormous paws and legs, and bound them to the frame of the cart with 
strong lashings of rawhide, while the heads of the savage animals were se- 
cured in such a manner that they could not move, or use their powerful jaws 
on their enemies, as we almost hoped they would, for the cruel strips of 
hide had cut into the flesh of the bears, and blood was flowing from their 
wounds quite freely. The pain must have been intense, to judge by the 
moans and groans of the animals. 

After we were assured that the bears could not escape, and tear us, like 
the Bible fable, we punched the bodies with our hands, and felt of the fur, 
and even patted them on their heads. Lewey wanted to try the effect of a 
fire-cracker on them, but gave up the idea when he saw that they were suf- 


128 


On Land and Sea. 


fering, and could not retaliate in any way, except by low growls, and flash- 
ing eyes. 

“ By gracious, here comes Peter, with a senorita on his arm, and a cap 
on his head,” cried Tom, and, sure enough, we saw the captain sailing down 
the street, shaping his course for the bears, and playing the agreeable to a 
mighty pretty little girl, a relative or daughter of Don Pio Pico, a gentleman 
who was for some time governor of California, and who gave our forces 
considerable trouble during the Mexican war. He was one of the most 
able and valiant of all the old residents, and very much of a gentleman, as 
he had some regard for his word, when it was pledged, while Castro cared 
neither for his pledges nor his honor. 

We felt a little envious of the captain. He had prevented our dancing 
with the half-breed girls, on the ground that they were the scum,” as he 
called them, and yet here he was making himself agreeable to a little beau- 
ty, and we could not rebuke him. In our eyes a girl was a girl, and a real 
girl was just as good as any other girl, and there was no more to be said on 
the subject. Argument was finished on that point, and laid away, until we 
grew up, and knew better. 

The captain was escorting Miss Pio to see the captives, and, for the time, 
he had forgotten the young lady at home, and his accordion, and all the 
hardships of a sailor’s life. It was well understood that the captain of a 
merchant ship was a great person in California, in the year 1843, and could 
have taken his pick from some very nice ladies, provided he had any Prot- 
estant religion to repudiate, and become a Catholic in good standing. Most 
of those who married on the coast did not have enough piety to hurt, and 
so could change from side to side in an expeditious manner, and feel none 
the worse for it. But the captain was an exception, and remained true to 
his first love, and passed all along the coast as the bachelor captain, who 
did not want a wife. 

We stepped one side when the captain and young lady approached, as in 
duty bound, but the doncellita did not as much as cast a look of interest at 
our young and innocent faces, yet, at the slightest sign, we would have fall- 
en down and worshiped her as a goddess, and kissed the ground on which 
she walked, for she had beautiful black eyes and hair, and a complexion 
that was clear, and flushed with health and pure blood. For the time being 
the master had laid aside his beloved beaver hat, and shipped a cap, as be- 
ing more convenient, and not liable to attract the attention of rude men-of- 
war’s men, who were on shore in large numbers. 

Lewey whispered that it would be a good idea to kill the captain, seize the 


On Land and Sea . 


129 


lady, put her on horseback, and escape with her into the back country, but 
gave up the idea when he reflected that there was no horse near, that he 
could not ride very well, and the old man would not stand still and be killed, 
and we did not know anything about the region two miles from Monterey. 
Then the French lad wanted to know what I thought of the pirate dodge, 
and said he would play cards to see who should possess the girl, but when 
I hinted to him that there was a man-of-war in port he gave up all hope, and 
meditated a more fiendish outrage. 

The captain was all smiles and bows, and the lady appeared to be much 
interested in the specimens of natural history before her, but, like other 
men, the old man wanted to be still more attentive, so commenced trying to 
talk Spanish, the very thing he should have avoided on that occasion, had 
he been wise. 

“ Este,” and here he stuck, as he pointed at the brutes, and we waited in 
silence for the next sentence, a regular lecture on the habits and customs of 
bears. 

“ Si,” said the lady, encouraging him with a word, and waiting for more 
pretty talk. 

The captain looked a little puzzled, and then turned to Lewey. 

“Here, you ,boy,” he asked, “vhat is bear in Spanish ?” 

“Borrico,” answered that bad boy, giving the name of the first animal he 
could think of, and that was a mule. 

“ Este borrico,” said the captain, but the young lady laughed, and clung 
to the old man a little tighter than necessary, and I thought that Lewey 
would burst, he tried so hard to keep from grinning. 

The captain looked a little suspicious, and just then Lewey recovered 
enough to say, in a rapid and distinct manner, so that I could understand 
him, and the young lady at the same time, — 

“ La mujer del capitano le gusta la vista del este oso.” 

Or in English, “ The captain's wife would very much like to see this 
bear,” thus intimating that the old man had one wife somewhere, while he 
was passing himself off as a single man among the pretty girls of Monterey. 

Miss Pio slipped her hand from the captain’s arm, looked somewhat sur- 
1 prised, and a little suspicious, while the master, who did not comprehend 
what was said, although he afterward acquired a good knowledge of Span- 
; ish, glanced first at Lewey’s face and then at my own, as I answered quite 
i earnestly, — 

“ Si, mucho.” 

“ Vot de deuse you boys talking about ? ” asked the captain, but, before 

u -> 


On Land and Sea. 


130 

we could frame a response, there was a shout in the plaza, and a dozen 
voices took up the cry of, — 

“ El toro ! el toro ! ” and sure enough we saw a wild, black bull charging 
down the square, and half a dozen vaqueros galloping after him, and swing- 
ing their reatas, and yelling like fiends, while one, more venturesome than 
the- rest, dashed forward, caught the bull by his long tail, and almost cast 
him end for end. Then another horseman launched his lassoo, and it fell 
over the horns of the bullock, and the next instant the latter was rolling in 
the dust and mud. Every one was so much occupied in watching the scene 
that the bears were forgotten for the time being. 

But Lewey and the rest of us boys were quite as much attracted by the 
bears as the bull. We pitied the sufferings of the one we were near, for he 
groaned and sighed, and the straps cut his flesh, clear into the muscles. 
Lewey looked at me, and then at Tom, and made motions to the knife 
which he wore attached to his neck. 

We understood him at once, and nodded. He glanced at the old man 
and the pretty girl. Neither was looking at us. No one was, except a 
drunken Indian, who wanted to go to sleep on the street, and did not know 
whether it would be safe, as he might lose some of his clothing, the piece of 
cloth around his loins, or his head of hair. 

“ Now,” motioned Lewey, and three sharp knives made short work of the 
lashings on the fore paws and head of the beast. The grateful animal 
raised itself partly up, but could not get off the cart, as its .hind feet were 
fastened so securely. Then, in the joy of its partial deliverance, it uttered 
a roar that made us quake with fear and consternation. 

“ Santa Maria,” cried Senorita Pio, “ el oso libre,” and she made a plunge 
that nearly took the captain off his feet, in her efforts to escape. 

“ Blank dem boys,” roared the captain, but he did not stop to say more 
just at that time, as he caught the lady up in his strong arms, as though she 
was but a child, as indeed she was, as far as years were concerned, and 
made all haste to gain the shelter of the nearest house, while we thought it 
best to escape as soon as possible from the vicinity, fearing we might be 
suspected of doing something wrong, as the innocent are sometimes ac- 
cused, and most unjustly. 

Somehow the town did not seem to have many attractions for us after 
that incident with the bears, so we wandered down to the custom house, 
and heard the loud shouts of the Mexicans with perfect indifference, as we 
knew that we were safe at all events. We passed Old Cook’s pulperia, 
and saw Jones and English Jack fast anchored inside and discussing 


On Land and Sea. 


t 3 r 


the relative merits of a stick or knife in defending one’s self against 
a Mexican attack. There seemed to be a difference of opinion re- 
garding the utility of either weapon, and while one favored a stick, the other 
fancied a knife, and we left them to settle the matter, refusing to drink a 
glass of auguardiente, as we feared that it would cause us to get into troub- 
le, and so injure our reputation in the town. We wanted to stand well with 
the people, in the hope of furthering the voyage, and thus benefiting the 
owners, and ourselves at the same time. 

It wanted two hours of sundown, and we did not know what to do until 
that time, as we desired not to lose a minute of our liberty. We saw some 
Indians pass us, coming from the Point of Pines, with strings of pearl shells 
which they had pried off the rocks, for they were very plentiful in those 
days, but I suppose there are none now, there was such a demand for them 
a few years ago. The Indians used to put the shells on a fire, and cook the 
tough, indigestible substance that was found inside. These shells adhered 
to the rocks as though riveted there by nails of steel, and cost some efforts 
to get them off. 

We thought that we could have time to go and gather some of the shells, 
and hoped that the captain would like them td adorn his cabin, and take 
home to his friends. We were then disposed to be very friendly with the 
old man, and to encourage him when necessary. Beside, we feared that he 
would suspect us of the bear episode, and so blame us, until we had made 
our explanation, and proved how humane we were. 

We started at once, although Simple Davy did not like the notion, but tve 
took him along, for fear he would get into mischief in case we left him 
alone. We passed the broad ravine, climbed the bank, and entered the fort, 
defended by one solider, who was standing guard, and smoking cigarettes, 
all of his companions having gone up town to see the fun, and kill the Indi- 
ans, if necessary, to prevent a rising. 

The defender of the honor of California put dowm his musket, old and 
rusty, and held out his hand for a piece of tobacco. As w'e supplied his 
wants he was quite pleasant, and let us look over the fort at our leisure 
and to examine the superb brass guns, of real Spanish make, but when we 
proposed to load one, and fire it point-blank at the Dale, the Mexican re- 
fused to comply with our terms, because he said there was only about a 
pound of powder in the magazine, and that must be kept on hand in case of 
an emergency, such as a sudden revolution, or something of the kind. 
There had not been one, the soldier said, for three months or more, but 
there was no telling how soon fighting might break out, and, if it should 


1*2 


On Land and Sea. 


happen along, the army would do its duty, or perish to a man, although he 
did not know which side he should be on, for or against the government. 
It would depend on circumstances, which we supposed meant money, as the 
one who owned the largest funds had the most circumstances in his favor, as 
a general thing. But we thought the Mexican very brave, and told him so. 
He seemed to like the compliment, and asked us to give him some more to- 
bacco, which we did, and then left the fort, and went to the rocks on the 
Point of Pines. Here we found a large number of pearl oysters, and we 
hacked them off with our knives, and had hard work to do so. At last we 
came across one monstrous big shell, that we were anxious to secure, but it 
adhered so close to the rocks that our knives made but little impression on 

it. although we did start the upper edge, and could just get our fingers in 

trying to pry it off. Our strength was not sufficient, and at last we called 

upon Davy to lend us a helping hand, but we had to scold him before he 

would arouse himself to act with us, and we did not think it very kind on 
his part after all we had done to amuse him during the day. 

“You take holte here,” Lewey said to Davy, “and den off it go quick. 
Now den, ve pry vid de knives, and you pull.” 

Davy exerted all of his strength, and just then my knife slipped out, and 
Lewey’s followed suit, and the shell closed up, and the ordinary seaman’s 
fingers were caught, and held as if in a trap, and, in spite of his exertions, 
he could not free himself from the firm grip of the shell. 

“ I say,” cried Davy, “ this hurts. Let me out of it.” 

“ Oh, pull the shell off,” we all exclaimed, and went in search of some 
others that we saw, and which we thought we could get without much 
trouble, and entirely disregarded the sailor’s cries for help. 

We were quite successful in our explorations, and secured twenty very 
nice shells, which we strung on a vine, and were heading toward the land- 
ing when we suddenly remembered Davy, and went to look for him, as he 
had been silent for a long time. We found that the tide had come in while 
we were busy, and the water was up to his knees, but he had got mad, and 
would not shout, not even if he was “ drownded,” a* he forcibly expressed 
it. 

We kicked off our shoes in a hurry, rolled up our trousers, and jumped 
into the water, hacked away at the large shell, and, after a while, succeeded 
in releasing Davy from his imprisonment, but his fingers were bruised and 
bleeding, so strong had been the pressure upon them. 

“ Think yer mighty smart, don’t yer ? ” Davy asked, as he rubbed his fin- 
gers, and looked at them a little sorrowfully, yet the good-natured fellow 


On Land and Sea. 


133 


dicl not exhibit a sign of anger for the cruel trick which we had played on 
him. 

“ Vhy you no sing out, you fou ?” demanded Lewey, in his usual impul- 
sive way. 

“ Sing out ? ” asked Davy ; “ did n’t I sing out as loud as I could, and yer 
never minded me. Think yer funny and smarties, don’t yer?” and into his 
mouth went his fingers. 

No, we did n’t think anything of the kind, for we had not intended to in- 
jure the best-natured man on board the ship. It was only forgetfulness on 
our part. 

“If I had been left till the water covered my head, I would n’t have 
squawked agin,” Davy said, with firmness. “ But I should have seen all you 
boys hung at the yard-arm for murder, that ’s what I should.” 

How the thing was to be accomplished he did not explain, and we were 
so sorrowful for the wrong we had inflicted on the poor fellow that we 
promised him a glass of auguardiente, or wine, at our expense, if he would 
keep quiet, and say no more about it, and he consented to make no com- 
plaint. 

As the sun was getting low, we shouldered our shells, and made the best 
of our way to the landing-place, as we saw the quarter-boat and pinnace com- 
ing on shore for the liberty men. 

The quarter-boat was left under our charge, to pull the old man and Mr. 
Melius on board, when they got ready to go, and then the members of the 
larboard watch came rolling down to the beach, in company with some of 
the Dale’s crew, and there was the customary embracing, and vows of eter- 
nal friendship, and the usual rows, one or two fights, and Mr. Goodhue, the 
third mate, was called some hard names, but he did not retort, as he knew 
that it would do no good. As English Jack stepped into the boat he de- 
livered a long benediction on California, and Monterey in particular, and the 
last words that I heard, just before he tumbled into the bottom of the pin- 
nace, were, — 

“ It ’s a bloody hole, and no place for a sailor. The rum is the only- 
good thing in the country.” 

Then the boat pushed off, and was rowed to the ship, and the men par- 
buckled over the side, had their suppers, a few quarrels, one or two fights, 
and all was quiet as the mate could expect by seven o’clock, and at that 
hour the old man hove in sight, and he looked very thoughtful as he told us 
to get the boat ready, and, when we had launched it, so that it floated at the 
bows, but was aground astern, thus enabling the captain to step into the 


134 


On Land and Sea. 


stern-sheets without wetting his feet, we gave the customary shove, tumbled 
in, and bent to our oars. 

For a moment there was an ominous silence, like the calm before the 
gale. Then the storm began, just as we feared it would. 

“ Dis is de last day dat you boys has liberty on shore Sunday while you 
is on dis coast,’' he said. 

We pulled on in silence. We felt as though some terrible calamity was 
near at hand, like an earthquake, or a typhoon, or a volcanic eruption. The 
captain continued, — 

“ You goes on shore, and I tells you to act like young gentlemen, and 
vhat does I see ? ” 

As we did not know what he had really seen we held our tongues, but we 
breathed hard, and Davy muttered something about shells, and sore fingers. 

“I tells all de peoples vot nice bojs I has, and dey believes me,” the 
captain continued. 

We wanted to thank him for the compliment, but he did not seem to ex- 
pect us to reply, so remained silent. Modest merit is always shy, and we 
had much merit, but were not so shy as we might have been. 

“Now vot does de peoples say?” asked the captain, after a breathing 
spell. 

We continued silent, but we hoped they appreciated us, and our efforts to 
amuse them, and to have their fete day go off with becoming success. 

“ Dey say dat you is de wust boys dat ever vas on shore in Monterey,” 
the captain said, and he seemed to imagine that there was some truth in the 
assertion. We did not think that the people of Monterey possessed much 
judgment in their estimate of distinguished visitors. 

“You puts dem blanked crackers under de haunches of de Indian,” the 
old man continued. 

“ Ve vanted to see him jump, sir,” Lewey said, in very humble tones. 

“ Veil, he did jump, and de peoples dinks dat a revolution burst out,” the 
captain remarked, with ill-suppressed wrath. 

“I should like to see a revolution, sir,” I said. “ Hope they will have 
one before long.” 

“ Den you dances vid de scum of de town, and no good boys vould do 
dat,” the old man went on, not noticing my candid remark. 

We had our doubts on that point, but did not think it prudent to argue 
the subject with our superior. It is not good policy to discuss matters of a 
public nature with the master of a ship, unless you are on shore, and free 
from his authority. Then if he gets mad you can laugh at him. 


On Land and Sea. 


135 


“ Ve thought dey vas de belles of de town,” Lewey ventured to suggest, 
in a mild, humble tone, alluding to the dark-eyed girls. 

“ Belles of de devil,” roared the captain. “ Dey vas no good for boys to 
dance vid. Don't let me see you do dat agin.” 

We promised that he should not, if we could avoid it, and meant it. 

“ Den you rides horseback, and runs over all de old vimmen in de town, 
and you kills some dogs, and de peoples talks to me about it,” Captain Pe- 
terson continued. 

We wondered if the Mexicans had also praised our horsemanship. As 
for the dogs, we knew they could be spared. There were enough of them in 
the town. 

“ Den you breaks up a cock-fight vid some blasted fire-crackers, and all 
de fust peoples in de town is mad.” 

“We wanted to discourage such immoral practices on the sabbath,” I 
ventured to hint, thinking the point a good one, but it did not carry any 
weight, and I wondered if the captain had bet on the wrong bird, and lost 
money. 

“ Den you tells me dat ‘ borrico ’ is de name of bear in Spanish,” the cap- 
tain said, and that appeared to make him more angry than anything else ; 
“and dat young lady laugh.” 

“ She vas von beautiful fille,” Lewey cried. “ I sees no von like her in 
dis place.” 

« Den some von cuts de lashing of de bear. Vich von does dat ? ” thun- 
dered the old man. 

We were discreetly silent. At length Lewey attempted an explanation. 

“ I sees an Indian vid aknife' in his hand. He vas drunk, and he might 
hab done all dat. Ve goes on shore to hab some fun, and it has been von 
very dull day for us.” 

“Yes,” I remarked, before the captain could regain his breath, “if our 
liberty days on shore don’t amount to more than this one, we should prefer 
to remain on board, and study navigation,” a favorite hobby of the captain’s, 
and one which he endeavored to impress upon our minds at all times, for 
he wanted to make us skillful navigators, and really took much trouble to 
lend us books, and a quadrant to experiment with. We made some prog- 
ress, but did not have time to do more than take the sun at noon, and work 
dead-reckonings when we were forced to. 

“You goes on shore no more on liberty until you learns to behave your- 
selyes,” was the last word the captain said on the subject. “ In vid your 
bow oar. Vay enough. Hook on de boat, atid hoist it up,” and the old 


0?i Land and Sea. 


136 


man seized the man-ropes, and went on deck. He must have forgotten his 
threats, for we heard no more about restricting our liberty, except when we 
were ready to enjoy it, and then we were merely cautioned to be good, and 
we were, as a matter of course. 

The next day, in spite of aching heads, and sore bodies, we were roused 
out at four o’clock in the morning, and set at work removing goods from 
the custom house, and returning them to the ship. All the heavy boxes 
had to be rolled down the steep bank, and over the rocks, then loaded into 
the launch, and hoisted on board. It was cruel work, and the men grum- 
bled, but it had to be done, and, when the quarter-boat was not engaged in 
carrying off traders to the ship, we had to tow the launch back and forth, 
and help load it. 

Once in a while a lot of hides would come along for us, and we soon 
learned how to handle them, and carry them on our heads, through the surf, 
so that they would not get wet, but we were not cheerful under the thought 
that every hide we gathered was for the Barnstable, instead of the Admit- 
tance. 

One day in the latter part of March some one cried out, “ Sail ho,” and 
round the Point of Pines appeared a nice-looking ship, with the American 
flag at the peak, and we wondered who she could be, but Mr. Melius came 
on deck from the store-room, and said that it was our consort, the Barnsta- 
ble, and he was right. She ran in close to us, clewed up her topsails, drop- 
ped anchor, and then her men went aloft, and furled all her topsails at once, 
laid down and stowed the courses, and in a short time the ship was in tip- 
top condition. The yards were squared by lifts and braces, and a boat was 
lowered, manned by four boys, and the master, Captain Hatch, came on 
board of us, and remained to dinner. He sent the boat back to his ship, 
much to our regret, for we wanted to interview those boys, and see if there 
was any fun in them, and on the coast of California. 

But on the same evening Mr. Prentice paid a visit to the mate of the 
Barnstable, and we pulled him on board, and then went down into the 
steerage, and saw the boys, but there were only four of them, and they did 
not seem to have much animation, so we slipped forward into the forecastle, 
and found a very nice crew, all good seamen, but most of them Englishmen, 
and some had served in first-class frigates and line-of-battle ships. 

They did not give us a good account of California. They had left San 
Francisco the morning before, where they had been gathering hides, and 
were now bound to the leeward ports, to discharge what they had collected 
at San Diego. They had been on the coast most eighteen months, and want- 


On Land and Sea. 


137 


ed to get home as soon as possible, and they hailed the arrival of the Ad- 
mittance with great delight, as she would help them in the arduous under- 
taking of doing most of their dirty work. All united in pronouncing the 
country the most God-forsaken hole that was ever known to man, and not 
one of the men would live there, they said, for all the hides and tallow that 
were gathered on the coast in a year’s time. Monterey, they stated, was a 
paradise as compared to the other parts, and San Francisco the meanest 
place that the sun ever shone upon, for the people were bloody greasers, 
and not worth a white man’s notice, or a Christian’s regard. They also de- 
clared that we would catch it before the voyage was ended, and were other- 
wise cheered and encouraged. 

Then they boasted of their vessel, and the good time the ship’s crew had, 
and intimated that the Barnstable could sail round and round the Admit- 
tance, and we did not know but that she might, as both of the vessels were 
constructed at Duxbury, Mass., and by the same builders, but later, after 
the crew had seen our ship under way, the boasting suddenly ceased, and all 
bets were declared off, for the only thing in which the Barnstable was supe- 
rior to us was in her bulwarks, which were very high, her rigging, and new 
sails, while ours were old and rotten, and had to be handled with tender 
care. 

To all of the boasts we remained discreetly silent, even Lewey refusing 
to brag a little for the honor of his craft, and, after the men had blanked 
California to their heart’s content, a brawny old fellow, bearded like a Turk, 
was called on for a song, and, instead of pitching on the sea for a theme, 
actually sang of the delights of a soldier’s life. I wish that I could remem- 
ber all the ballad, but I can think of but one verse, and that ran like this : — 

“ Their horses were capering and prancing, 

Their accoutrements shone like a star. 

From the plains, as they were rapidly advancing, 

She saw young Edwin, her gallant hussar.” 

Then the song went on to say that the young lady, noble, rich, and with 
a title to her name, had fallen in love with the good-looking soldier, sent for 
him, and made him an offer of her hand and heart, and all her fortune, to 
make the thing more perfect and romantic. As Edwin did not appear to be 
a fool, he accepted, left the army, and lived on the lady’s estate, quite hap- 
py in the thought that he had done his duty to queen, and to love. 

This song was received with rapturous applause, but I thought I could 


138 


On Land and Sea. 


detect a shade of disappointment that the soldier had not been a bold tar, 
who had roamed the ocean blue, and seen many countries. But the sailors 
were generous, and did not repine at the good fortune of the hussar, who- 
ever he was. 

Then an old man-of-war’s man, who always boasted that he was a boy 
on board the line-of-battle ship, Bellerophon, that carried Boney to the 
Island of St. Helena, and was fond of telling just how the great man looked, 
what he said, and how he would pinch the ears of the lads who came near 
him, piped his tunes to a different lay, and sang a love song, the whole of 
which 1 have forgotten, except one verse : — 

“ My dark-haired girl, whose ringlets I ’ve caressed, 

With form erect, and lips I ’ve pressed 
Oh, no, I would not for the crown of an earl, 

Forego the love that I cherish for my dark-haired girl.” 

This was the favorite of the evening. I did not dare to hint that earls 
never wore crowns, but coronets, when they desired to make guys of them- 
selves in the house of lords, and elsewhere. I should have been frowned 
down. 

A grisly old fellow, whose voice was husky and cracked, then removed 
a huge quid of tobacco from his mouth, and intimated that he wanted to i 
take his turn at the bellows, and, as soon as silence could be obtained, | 
howled out a ballad called “ The Roving Sailor.” I can only remember a -■ 
few lines, and those were, — 

“ Says I, ‘ My dear, be of good cheer, 

I will not leave you, do not fear.’ 

Straightway to bed she did repair, 

To dream of her roving sailor.” 

Shrieks of applause greeted the last song, which was the most funny, it . 
seemed to me, of the evening, and the old fellow received all the praise be- % 
stowed upon him in a modest, but complacent manner, as though he de- -J 
served it for his excellent vocalism. 

There were no vulgar songs that evening, so the boys were not corrupted, y 
and I was sorry when the third mate of the Barnstable came forward, and, 
shouted down the forecastle, — 

“ Away Admittance,” and we went on deck, but not ur til I had received 
from the man-of-war’s man a promise to tell me, at some future time, all 


On Land and Sea . 


139 


about Boney, how he looked and conducted on board of the ship that car- 
ried him to his last barren home, where he died a chained eagle, that all the 
crowned wooden heads of Europe feared, and at whose name, even at this 
late day, some Frenchmen shed tears. 

We pulled to the Admittance, and then returned to the Barnstable with 
Captain Hatch, who had stopped on board our ship to spin yarns with Cap- 
tain Peterson, and, after the boat was hoisted up, turned in, and growled as 
usual when we were called to stand anchor watch. 

The next day we transferred all the hides we had collected to the Barn- 
stable, as she was going down to San Diego, and then learned that we were 
to sail very soon for San Francisco, were we expected to remain six weeks, 
or more. 

During the week the bark Tasso, Captain Hastings, arrived from the 
windward, and the harbor of Monterey presented quite an animated appear- 
ance. The Tasso was a bluff, old-fashioned vessel, hailing from Boston, 
and owned by Messrs. Bryant & Sturgis, and could sail about six knots an 
hour, if she had a leading breeze, and plenty of it. She was a roomy, com- 
fortable craft, and the crew did not have very hard times. The four boys 
on board of her were clever little fellows, but did not seem to have the vim 
in them that was desirable, so they were not such favorites on shore as the 
lads of the Admittance, for we were so well known that wdien some of the 
greasers saw us coming they would enter their houses, and shut the doors, 
if they had any to close, apparently fearful that our conversation might 
fascinate them to such an extent that they would forget to take their usual 
siestas. Sometimes a native, more daring than the others, would thrust'his 
head out of a window, or a place where a hole had been punched in the 
adobe wall, for the purpose of placing a window at some distant day, when 
there was plenty of leisure, and look at Lewey with a glance of admiration, 
mingled with fear;- and then shout, — 

“ Fizz! bang ! ” and disappear in the recess of his private apartments, to 
appear no more until we were safely on board, or at a distance. He was 
thinking of fire-crackers. 

It was very flattering to be so well liked, and we felt proud of the many 
attachments we had formed at Monterey, but, after we commenced placing 
fire-works under the heels of the bullocks that drew the rough carts to the 
beach, loaded with hides and tallow, just to see how fast California cattle 
could run, when in earnest, some meddlesome fellow complained of us, and 
we had to pretend that our stock of fire wwks was all gone, and even our 
word was not taken by the mate, for he searched our dunnage, to see if we 


140 


On Land a7id Sea. 


spoke the truth, and then apologized for doubting our honor. We had sus- 
pected the visit, and coaxed Chips to stow the crackers away in one of his 
tool chests, which he always kept locked, and he was too clever a man to 
give us away. 

But the young ladies of the place, and Heaven bless all of them in every 
part of the world, for they are the true friends of real nice boys, stuck to us, 
and made us welcome whenever we called upon them, and smiled upon us 
in a truly fascinating manner, as though we were good enough game to 
practice on, in the absence of older parties. But the elderly ladies did not 
like us, and spit at us like cats, simply because Levvey dropped two of them 
in the water, where it was a foot deep, and very cold, just as though the 
P'rench lad could help it, tired as he was. I never believed it was done out 
of spite, because I monopolized the girls, that is all the pretty ones, as I 
had a right to, being coxswain of the boat, and having charge of it, and re- 
sponsible to the captain for the safety of the passengers. 

When we passed the houses of those doncellitas whom we had often 
pulled on board, they would hail us, tell us to come in, and give us a little 
fruit, if they had any, or, if not, a dish of tortillas, or frijoles. We would 
thank them in the most grateful manner, and then they wq^fd turn to their 
mothers, or aunts, and say that we were just about as good as we could be 
and live, while the unromantic senoras would spit out some spiteful remark 
about our being little devils, and heretics at that, and were certain of being 
cursed, some time or other. I shall never forget the kindness of the young 
ladies of Monterey for standing by us when we were under a temporary 
cloud, and could not speak, and explain matters as we should like to have 
done. But the time came when we had full justice done us, but that was 
during a sudden revolution, the fortieth or fiftieth, I have forgotten which,, 
while we were on the coast. Then those same anciano senoras were triad 
to call Lewey and I angels of goodness, and beg us not to drop them in the 
water, while fleeing for supposed safety to our ship, and from the blood- 
thirsty revolutionists, who had made a desperate attack on the government 
forces, and nearly killed a soldier by mistake. Then we had ample revenge 
for the slights we received, and one motherly lady, with a beard and a 
strong breath, wanted to kiss me out ©f gratitude for the service I rendered 
her. But I declined the kiss. 

One day a schooner drifted around the Point of Pines, just as we were 
rowing the old man on board. All the ensigns were displayed in honor of 
the new arrival, and even the Mexican flag was run up at the fort, an unusu- 
al event, as bunting was not plentiful in the Mexican army or navy. As we 


On Land and Sea. 


141 


passed the Barnstable Captain Hatch hailed Captain Peterson, and asked 
him to come alongside, and take him in, and go on board the stranger. 

“ That is the schooner California, Captain Cooper,” the master of the 
Barnstable said. “ It is the only man-of war the Mexicans have in the Pa- 
cific. If she should bring her broadside to bear on the Dale, down the lat- 
ter would go. Let us hurry on board, and welcome Captain Cooper in a 
ship-shape manner.” 

We ran alongside, took Captain Hatch in, and then headed for the terri- 
ble vessel that could sink one of our sloops-of-war at a broadside. There 
was a five-knot breeze blowing. It was fair for the schooner to enter the 
harbor, and she had all sail set, yet the Mexican appeared to drift slowly 
toward the anchorage, and there was not even a ripple at her bow. 
She was one of those crafts that could neither sail on the wind, before the 
wind, nor with the wind free, and sometimes she would tear the water all to 
pieces under her bow, and seem to be doing wonders, yet not make three 
knots an hour, even with the current in her favor, and when hauled up 
sharp on the wind, would drift to leeward so fast that sometimes the com- 
mander would have to drop anchor, for fear of going on a lee shore, and 
I wait until the wind changed to get away from his perilous position. 

At such times, as soon as the anchor was down, all hands would go to 
| sleep, and wake up when they were hungry, and, if it happened to be in the 
night, would get something to eat, such as a mess of cheque, or dried beef, 
melt or thaw it, for it is terrible in its hardness and dryness, put in an 
onion, a pepper, a few potatoes, and there was a dish thrt commanded re- 
specr, if no other was to be obtained. 

After eating the crew and officers would retire for anc .her c?p, and wait 
until morning. The vessel was employed in carrying stores and troops 
from California to Mazatland, and, as a large number of the soldiers usually 
j pegged out on the passage, the government did not object to the long voy- 
ages, as it was not called upon to pay the salaries of the men who died, a 
matter that need not have given Mexico the slightest uneasiness, as it never 
paid any one if it could help it, unless there was a revolution, and then the 
; loyal troops were given a dollar or two each, on account, just to encourage 
them to be faithful, and kill their opponents, or frighten them. 

Captain Cooper was an American, from Massachusetts, a half brother of 
Mr. Thomas O. Larkin, and the head of the Mexican navy, on the Pacific 
coast. He had become a naturalized citizen of California, married a Mexi- 
can wife, and taken up large tracts of land in various parts of the country, 
but his home was at Monterey, when on shore, and there OS enjoyed him* 


142 


On Land and Sea. 


self, and dispensed a liberal hospitality to all who were honored with his ac- 
quaintance, and who that traded on the coast of California in 1843 did not 
know him, and respect him ? 

The captain was an elderly man, a thick, stout old fellow, nervous and 
abrupt in His movements, and had a peculiar habit of biting one of his 
hands — the one that was withered — when in a passion, or laboring under 
excitement. No matter who was near him, or what he was saying, if sud- 
denly vexed up would go his hand to his mouth, and he would take a cruel 
nip at the member, and then seem satisfied that he had done his duty, and 
cool off. 

Once his man-of-war was captured by one of our ships, after a desperate 
struggle, in which a kanaka, a member of his crew, was punched by a boat- 
hook, and blood nearly drawn. The old fellow nearly chawed himself up he 
was so mad at the outrage, and he deeply regretted that he had not saved 
one of the halyards of the fore and aft sails as a well-rope, which he wanted 
more than anything else. But the vessel was restored to him, and an apol- 
ogy made. Captain Cooper did not seek revenge for the insult by attack- 
ing the United-States ship, and sinking her, as she was lying at anchor. 
He might have tried it, but the only armament he had on board was an old 
rusty Queen Anne musket, that had not been discharged for five years, 
and no one dared to handle it, so it was not known whether it was loaded-or 
not. 

His first mate, or lieutenant, as he should be called, was a young man 
named Willard, a practical printer, and .belonging in Salem, Mass. He was 
a clever fellow, and had become a naturalized Mexican, like his superior, for 
the purpose of taking up some thousands of acres of nice grazing land, on 
the banks of the Sacramento River. He was unmarried, and therefore en- 
abled to devote all of his time to the duties of his profession, which were 
not very arduous, as his crew numbered one able seaman, Scotch Jim, and 
three natives of New Zealand, the latter all tattooed in a hideous manner on 
the face, and various parts of the body, enough to frighten away a boat’s 
crew of boarders, had the kanakas but shown themselves in time. One of 
the natives was cook, and another acted as steward, but when entering or 
leaving port all hands were called to do duty. After the vessel was fairly 
under way she required no attention. She had been on the coast so long 
that if the mate put the tiller midship, and mentioned the name of the port 
the captain wanted to go to, she would drift there in the course of time 
without any further effort. At any rate this was the report on the coast, 
but I did not believe it, and had occasion to prove it false, some years after- 


On Land and Sea. 


143 


ward, for Lewey and I took passage in her to Mazatland, and arrived there 
safe and soifnd, although it was a wonder, for half the time there was no 
watch on deck nights, and when there was one it was asleep, and the vessel 
hove to. 

We pulled alongside the California, and were most hospitably received by 
Captain Cooper, who was not in uniform, and did not own one. He had 
been up to San Francisco for a load of flour for the troops, and the people 
of Monterey, and thought that he had made a good passage, as he had been 
but four days on the way, and a fair wind all the time. Our captain offered 
to tow him in with our boat, but the naval officer thought that it was not 
worth while, as he should get in some time during the night, if the wind did 
not head him, and he thought it looked as though it might stand. As he 
was less than half a mile from the anchorage we did not think that he would 
be required to remain out over night, and so left him to his slow course, 
but by four o’clock the old schooner dropped anchor inside the Dale and 
the fort, and we looked for the usual man-of-war courtesies. To my sur- 
prise the United-States ship did not fire a gun, or send a boat on board, to 
offer the usual congratulations on a safe arrival, and ask if any assistance 
was required. The Dale and her officers ignored the Mexican man-of-war 
as completely as if it had not existed, and Captain Cooper did not seem in 
the least provoked at all the snubbing, but bit his hand, and went his way, 
and appeared not to care for the sloop-of-war in the least. Knowing the 
strength and magnitude of his vessel he could afford to be magnanimous to 
a power that was none too friendly to ?dexico at the time. 

In the course of a few days the ship California, Captain Arthur, arrived 
from San Francisco,, bound south. She belonged to a Boston firm, and 
had been on the coast so many years that it was related of her at one 
time the owners proposed to send the vessel to Europe, but the old craft re- 
fused to move out of her usual course, and, in spite of helm and sails, 
poked her nose around Cape Horn, and did not stop her rapid progress of 
five knots an hour, until she dropped anchor in the harbor of Monterey, and 
then seemed to recover her senses, and was like all other vessels, ready to 
answer her helm, and go from port to port as her commander desired. She 
had, like a spirited old family horse, taken the bits between her teeth, and 
gone home, regardless of all efforts to control her, or direct her course. 

I never quite believed this story, but it was stated to be true, neverthe- 
less, and Captain Arthur never denied it. I recently asked Captain Peter- 
son if he had faith in the yarn, and he refused to commit himself, one way 
or the other. The most he would say was that ships, like women, were 


144 


On Land and Sea. 


very notional, and you never knew where to find them, or what they would 
be up to next, showing very plainly that his wife had tabooed all accordion 
playing in the house, since he retired from the sea, an evidence of her good 
sense which cannot be too highly commended by people with nerves, and a 
desire to sleep. 

The harbor was now so full of vessels that the commandante of the presi- 
dio sent word that we had got to stop such foolishness, as his flag was 
about worn out, hoisting it day after day, in honor of arrivals, and that he 
had no other to raise in case of a sudden revolution. The wind had de- 
stroyed all of the bunting except the turkey-buzzard, and that threatened to 
leave the next time there was a stiff breeze. There was some talk of get- 
ting up a subscription, and presenting the commandante with a new flag, 
but, at a meeting of the masters of the vessels, for the purpose of taking ac- 
tion on the subject, the captains got to playing loo, or poker, and those who 
lost swore they would not give a real, and those who won declined 
to contribute, on the ground that they might lose the next time, and so, 
unfortunately, the project fell through, and the presidio had to get along 
with its tattered ensign until a requisition could be made on the national 
government, and, as that only took from five to ten years, the Mexican war 
closed all requirements in that line. 

The company that now visited the Admittance every day was so large 
that the steward had to have assistance, and the boy Bill was transferred 
from the steerage to the cabin, and made an aide. He seemed to like the 
change at first, but the rest of the boys made life a burden, by waylaying 
him, on his course from the galley to the cabin, with food, and uttering the 
ever plaintive cry of, — 

“O Bill, give us some," and the boy, instead of responding in a mess- 
mate-like manner, would tremble with fright, and say, — 

“ O Lord, do you want to ruin me ? Don’t you see Peter is looking right 
at us ? ” and he imagined that such was the case, even if the old man was 
on shore, and dancing a fandango with some nice-looking girls and 
wild captains. I don’t write this to cause domestic unhappiness, because 
women must not imagine that even if they are engaged to naval officers, 
and masters of merchant ships, their fiancdsdo nothing but sigh and mope 
for their enslavers, while in port, where black-eyed houris reside, and use 
their fans to partially conceal inviting glances. I have always contended 
that seamen should never marry, because they imperil their souls by the 
lies they have to tell their wives when they return home, as to how they 
have passed their time while absent. If I knew that I should be believed I 


On Land and Sea . 


145 


would state that our ship was an exception to the general rule, but all sail- 
ors would pronounce the yarn false, and so I will let the matter pass. 

We saw much of Captain Arthur, a plain, bluff sailor, who resembled a 
farmer in prosperous circumstances. He had the reputation of being a good 
and kind master, and his crew liked him, and spoke well of him. Captain 
Peterson had sailed with him as chief mate two voyages, and so looked up 
to his old master, or, rather, looked down on him, as our skipper was six 
inches taller'than Arthur, and much more robust in every respect. It was 
quite pleasant to see the deference with which our captain treated the cap- 
tain of the California. 

One morning in April the merchant ships up anchor, and sailed south, 
leaving only the Dale, the schooner California, and the Admittance in port, 
and, the very day after they left, on calling all hands at daylight, it was dis- 
covered that the pinnace was missing, and that it was lying on the beach, 
broadside to the surf, and that the assistant steward, Bill, and the boy 
Henry, were absent, having left in the course of the night, but in whose 
watch it was impossible to tell, as all hands denied that they had gone while 
they were on deck. 

The old man was informed of the desertion, but he merely came on deck, 
snorted around for a while, and then ordered us to man the quarter-boat," so 
that he could go on shore, and look after the pinnace, and tow it off to the 
ship. Then he proceeded up town, to throw out a few hints that he should 
like to recover his bOys. 

“ Let dis impress upon your minds de vickedness of running avay,” the 
captain said, as we pulled toward the beach. “ Only bad boys runs avay. 
De good lads stays on board, and grows up vid de vessel, and gets to be 
S mates, and den masters.” 

“ Dat is jist vot ve vants to be,” Lewey said. “ Ve tries to be good all de 
time.” 

The old man looked at the French lad as though there was room for im- 
provement on his part, but said nothing. 

, The captain headed for Old Cook’s pulperia, and, as the latter had been 
doing an immense business for two weeks past, but was now quite sober, he 
listened to the account of the desertion with calm interest, and promised 
that the boys should be on board at eight bells the next morning, and all for 
the small sum of five dollars per head. He was as good as his word, for 
I Bill and Harry were brought to the landing at the time agreed upon, in the 
! charge of two black and villainous-looking rancheros, and, when the lads 
were pulled on board, they did not look happy. They had gone off with a 


146 


On Land and Sea. 


vaquero, in the hope of growing up with the country, and passing their days 
in riding horseback, and lassooing cattle, but when the villainous, half- 
breed scoundrels learned that a reward was offered for the lads’ arrest, they 
sold them to Old Cook, and pocketed half the money, a very common prac- 
tice in California in 1843. 

The old man received the runaways with freezing coldness and polite- 
ness. 

“ You dinks you gets avay ? ” he asked. 

There was no response from the boys, but they did not meet his glance of 
displeasure. 

“ Now let me tells you dat no von can leave dis ship and not get catched. 
Let dis be a varning to you. Now go to your duty, and don’t you do sich 
dings agin, or the vurst for you,” and that was all the captain said or did. 1 
He could threaten, like a scolding woman, but he never carried out his in- 
tentions, as far as punishment was concerned. He had a good heart, after ; 
all, even when he blustered the most. 

Harry was not of much use to us after that. He injured himself some- 
how, and could only do light duty, such as cleaning the brasses, the cap- 
stan, and man-rope stanchions, the bells, and other bright work. He swelled 
up, like a balloon inflated with gas, and used to go about deck, and ask us ■ 
to put our hands on his stomach, and feel how he was increasing in size, 
and felt offended when we refused to gratify his whim more than once a 
day. He took a certain pride in his deformity, and boasted of it, and was 
quite willing to do all his messmates a good turn. The boy who had threat- 
ened to throw us from the mizzen-top-gallant yard, the first twenty-four 
hours from Boston, and bullied us, now entreated us to let him bring from 
the galley pots of tea, or coffee, nights and mornings. As we had no hard 
feelings on the subject, and always liked to be waited on, we graciously con- 
sented, and a very good fag Harry made, and we seldom had to reprimand | 
him for neglect of duty. 

The surgeons of the Dale and the Ceynne examined the lad, and one of 
them said that, as a boy on board the ship, he would never amount to much, 
but that as a buoy for the anchor he would be a success, as he was so much 
extended with gas that he could not sink. This was intended as a joke, 
rather a cruel one, however, but, to understand it, it is necessary to state 
that in olden times no captain thought he could come to anchor unless he 
had a spar-buoy to mark the position of the mud-hook, so that it could be 
picked up in case of accident. They are rarely seen now. 

The captain declined to use Harry as the surgeon suggested, and, after 


On Land and Sea. 


1 47 


prescribing compressions, and internal remedies, the doctors gave up the 
case. The lad had to be sent home eventually, as he could never be cured 
on the coast. I do not know if he ever recovered, or what became of him. 

One morning a stiff southeast gale sprang up, and the rain fell in tor- 
rents, to the great delight of Chips, who marshaled his demijohns in gallant 
array, and then filled them, and himself at the same time. There was no 
boating to be done, for the surf was bad, and the Mexicans did not want to 
get wet with salt or fresh water. I was -on deck, on the lookout, while the 
men were at work in the hold, when suddenly I saw a gallant ship pass the 
Point of Pines, and at her peak fluttered a small American flag, while her 
side showed a line of port-holes and frowning guns. 

“ Sail ho !” I shouted, and the old man came on deck, in spite of the 
heavy rain, to see who the stranger was, and what she looked like, for it 
was blowing a gale of wind, off shore, and it was no easy matter to enter 
Monterey harbor under such conditions as those. It was a dead beat to the 
windward, and against quite a heavy head sea, circumstances that test a 
vessel and her commander. 



THE SLOOP-OF-WAR CEYNNE BEATING INTO MONTEREY HARBOR. — SAIL- : 
ING OF THE DALE. — EXCHANGE OF CHEERS. — A NAVAL CAPTAINS \ 
KIND WORD. — A DEER HUNT. — A ROW ON BOARD. — HOW IT WAS] 
QUELLED. — A DONCELLITA’S SWEET LIPS. — LEWEY AS A COOK, AND 
HOW HE FAILED. — UNDER WAY. — A RACE WITH THE CEYNNE. 

T HE man-of-war that appeared off the Point of Pines was a splendid | 
specimen of naval architecture, and it seemed to me that I had never 
seen a more beautiful ship. It was blowing a stiff gale from the southeast, 
and the rain was falling in torrents, but, as the wind was off shore, we did 
not feel it much where we were lying, and had no occasion to drop a second 
anchor under foot. However, the vessel in the offing had all she wanted to 
do in her attempts to beat up to the anchorage. 

“ It ’s de Ceynne,” said Captain Peterson to Mr. Melius, after he had 
taken a long look at the stranger, through the ship’s glass. 

We knew that she was expected from Mazatland, to relieve the Dale, and, 


On Land and Sea. 


1 49 


as we had heard a great deal of the vessel, and her sailing qualities, I was 
more interested than ever in the ship, and was glad that I was on deck, and 
had nothing to do but watch the vessel, dodge the old man, and see the rain 
fall in torrents, to the intense delight of Chips, and all who were interested 
in fat cattle and hides, for the more water the more euros and tallow, and 
the sooner home. 

I got under the lee of the topgallant forecastle, with my oil-cloth suit on 
to keep out the wet, and watched the ship dashing the water from her bow, 
as she plunged through the heavy seas, throwing the spray high over her 
foreyard, and burying her lee gun’s muzzles entirely out of sight, as she bent 
to the blast. She was under double reefed topsails, reefed foresail, and 
spanker, and her jib was also reefed, or else the bonnet was off, for it did 
not appear very large, yet sometimes I could see even the lower part buried 
out of sight, as the vessel struck a wave greater than usual. In each top 
were many men. I even saw them shelter themselves under the lee of the 
mast-heads, to get out of the rake of the wind and rain, as they howled, and 
wet all they came in contact with, or who were not sheltered by the high 
bulwarks of the ship. 

The vessel was about a mile to the northerd of the Point of Pines, and 
would be compelled to make several tacks before she could get to the an- 
chorage, and under the shelter of the land. I was quite interested to see 
if the sloop-of-war could go in stays under double-reefed topsails. But few 
vessels can do so in a heavy swell, and if the Ceynne failed she would have 
to wear ship, run out to sea, and wait until the gale abated. 

She stood well over toward Santa Cruz, so that she could feel the full 
force of the flood tide, which had begun to flow quite strong, and then I saw 
that the helm had been put down, that the topsails were shaking, the jib and 
fore-top-mast-staysail slatting furiously, and the great ship came up into the 
wind, very slowly, and for a moment she seemed to hesitate, like a girl who 
does not know whether to accept or reject a good proposal of marriage, but 
at last bows her head in token of assent, and is almost swallowed up in an 
embrace, with an avalanche of kisses and tears of pleasure. So the sloop, 
of-war bent her stately bows to the waves and gale, and then a great green 
sea leaped on board, and it seemed as though it would beat her back, and 
compel the commander to shift his helm, wear ship, and go out to sea once 
more. 

It was a moment of intense suspense, and Mr. Prentice, who had come on 
deck, and stood beside me, said, — 

“ She can’t do it, Thom. No ship can under the sail she carries. Even 


ISO 


On Land and Sea. 


the Admittance would mis-stay if she was out there,” thus paying a high 
compliment to our ship, and the sloop-of-war at the same time. 

But the topsails, after fluttering a moment, caught aback, the spanker 
sheet was hauled well aft, the head yards were checked in a very little, and 
then the ship slowly turned toward us. She had passed the critical point, 
and was safe, heading on the other tack, well up toward Point Pinos, and 
the green waves were dashing over bows, and sheet anchors, and flooding 
the deck, fore and aft. 

“ By blank,” shouted the mate, “that was well done,” for, like the able 
seaman that he was, he could not repress his admiration at the difficult 
manoeuvre that had just been performed before his eyes, and by a national 
ship. 

“ Up vid de bunting, Mr. Goodhue,” our captain cried. “ Ve vill show 
dat fellow dat ve knows a good ding ven ve sees it,” and the old man’s face 
glowed with admiration, and drops of rain at the same time. 

The Ceynne now bent to the work before her, and headed toward the 
land. As she keeled over we could see her burnished copper, and the nine 
heavy guns, as they frowned on us from the half-closed port-holes. She 
was an eighteen-gun sloop-of-war, and, at the time, one of the best in our 
navy, as regards discipline, and good sea-going qualities. 

The commander of the war vessel saw that he must no longer trust to 
luck, and good seamanship, if he would get into port before the gale arrived 
at its height, and it was evident that he meant to give his ship more canvas, 
for we saw the men in the maintop lay out on the mainyard, and commence 
casting off gaskets, to loose the sail. 

“ She can’t stand it,” said Mr. Prentice. “It will take the sticks out of 
her. She has more canvas now than she had ought to carry.” 

But the sail was loosed, having been reefed when furled, and soon the 
main tack and sheet were brought down, and aft, by the strength of a hun- 
dred men, or more, or the aid of capstans, we could not tell which, for we 
did not see the deck, the bulwarks were so high, and then the vessel 
plunged into the surging seas as if she would disappear from sight. She 
was sailing almost on her beam-end, and the muzzles of the dark and grim 
guns on the weather side were elevated to an angle of sixty degrees. The 
ship seemed to leap almost out of the water, as she rose on the waves, and 
the spray flew higher than the foreyard, and the white foam gathered 
around her bow, and then swept over the topgallant forecastle, until it 
looked like a flood of milk. 

In ten minutes the Ceynne was so near the rocky point that she had to 


On Land and Sea. 


IS! 


tack, and down went the helm, and up into the wind came the vessel, then, 
when the mainsail flapped, it seemed as though the yard, or mast, must go, 
and I could almost see the great hull quiver with the enormous strain. 
Rut into the wind’s eye came the strong prow, and the headway of the ship 
was so great that she gracefully turned, and started on another tack, and, in 
an hour’s time, the sloop-of-war was almost under the lee of the land, where 
the waves were less fierce, and the gale not so strong, and then up went 
the mainsail and foresail, as if by magic, and thirty men were on each yard, 
rolling the canvas into a compact mass, and the gaskets were passed in a 
hurry, and then the vessel rounded to between the Dale and ourselves. Up 
and down were clewed topsails, tore and aft, and, as the anchor was dropped, 
over a hundred men swarmed up the rigging, as lively as cats, and all the 
sails were furled in less time than it takes to write this sentence, and then 
was heard the sharp whistles of the boatswain’s mates, as they called out 
in hoarse tones, — 

“ Square the yards by lifts and braces,” and, when this was done, and the 
topgallant yards were sent down, like the sticks of exploded rockets in their 
descent, so rapid were the movements, and all the ropes had been coiled 
down in their places, there came another hoarse growl, after shrill pipes, 
of, — 

“ All hands muster aft, and splice the main brace,” an order that was 
obeyed with great alacrity, we could see, for the men were wet and cold, and 
did not know that a tot of grog was unwholesome under such circumstances. 
It has taken years to convince them of the fact, and some of them are not 
converted to this day to that idea. 

In spite of the heavy sea in the bay, and the strong gale, now raging like 
a fiend, and the falling rain, — to the intense delight of Chips, who swore 
that it was the loveliest country he had ever seen, — the cutters of the two 
war ships were piped away, and there was much visiting, asking of ques- 
tions, and letters delivered, and invitations to dinner. So the day wore on, 
but no one came to see us. However, word was passed, fore and aft, to 
get ready letters, if we desired to send them home, as the Dale was to leave 
the next day for Mazatland, and our messages would be forwarded from 
that port, over-land, by the way of Mexico. 

I spent the evening in writing to my respected guardian, telling him what 
a good boy I was, and what a favorite I was with the captain, and officers, 
and cook, and all the Mexicans on shore, and I thought, if the Lord ever 
permitted me to get home safely, that salt water would know me no more, 
as I had had enough to last me a lifetime. I said that California was a 


152 


On Land and Sea. 


very expensive place, and that the captain required his young gentlemen — 
as I accidentally stated he called us — should dress at all times so that we 
could be ready to mix in the very best society, and take a hand at monte, or 
glide through a waltz, or pose while performing in the difficult mazes of a 
fandango, the fashionable dance, and only indulged in by the £lite of the 
place. To keep up our style, and make an appearance that would do credit 
to the ship, I found required more clothes than I possessed, and he might 
send me one hundred dollars in silver, by the first vessel that sailed from 
Boston for California, as I could buy all that I needed on the coast better 
than at home as the costumes of the country were very peculiar, and the 
habits still more remarkable, but high-toned and agreeable ; that American 
boys were in demand at all the seances, and were looked up to with much 
respect, and almost reverence ; that we had very little use for money, as 
all doors were open to us (I forgot to state that some of the houses had no 
doors, but it did not matter, my guardian having no more idea of California 
than he had of the Nile and its sources), but it was necessary to make a 
few presents, once in a while, to the children of our friends, just to show we 
appreciated the kindness that was showered upon us from all directions, 
when on shore. 

It was a very nice letter, and when I read it over to Lewey he was de- 
lighted with it, and praised it so highly that I felt quite proud of my literary 
ability. My friend could only suggest one alteration, and that was to ask 
for two hundred dollars instead of one. After mature deliberation I feared 
to make the change, as I did not know but that I should fail in getting what 
little I asked for, so thought I would be reasonable. By being so candid 
and honest I did obtain the money. It is always best to be square with 
your guardians, if the latter are square with you. Many of them have pe- 
culiar ideas of honesty when the day of settlement comes around, and the 
final accounts are audited. 

The letter was despatched, and reached home in safety, and had such a 
peculiar effect, that I got the money, and a long missive from a most esti- 
mable gentleman, in which he exhorted me to be ambitious, and always 
seek the top instead of the bottom of society, and actually wanted me to 
thank the Mexicans of California, in his behalf, for their kindness toward 
me. How astonished they would have been had I read that letter to them, 
and explained its contents. The money was put to a good use, but all was 
not expended in buying slashed trousers, short monkey jackets, and broad- 
brimmed sombreros, with gilt bands and silver tassels. But there was not 
so much as a real wasted, and I might have used a few dollars more to 


On Land and Sea. 


153 


great advantage, at least Lewey said that I could, and he shared to the last 
peso, while the old man was constantly asking the mate, — 

“ Vere de debil do dem boys get der moneys ? ” for mine had been sent 
in a close package, as I had stated in my letter that I did not want the cap- 
tain to know that I was to receive funds, as he usually insisted on paying 
.all of my expenses, and would feel offended unless he could continue the 
privilege during the voyage. So the silver did not betray its presence 
when it was handed to me, with a collection of books, stockings, trousers, 
and pocket handkerchiefs. The latter articles were curious things to send 
to California, as no one used them there, the corner of a serapa, blanket, or 
the sleeve of a coat, or even, in case of great necessity, the hand was very 
dexterously employed, but in the latter instance it was always best to be to 
the windward of the Mexican who stuck to nature, and ignored art, and the 
cotton trade, for silk handkerchiefs were only used by the very rich, and 
then only on occasions of great rejoicing, or to tie around the head like a 
turban. 

The next day the weather was pleasant. The sun shone out warm and 
bright, and a soft breeze rippled the surface of the bay. We all expected 
the Ceynne would salute the fort with the customary number of guns, but 
the commandante of the presidio sent a message to Captain Stripling that 
he was short of powder, and could not indulge in glorifications unless the 
captain would lend him a keg, but the matfer-of-fact commander returned 
word that he was not lending much powder just at that time, and so the sa- 
lute was omitted, much to my regret, for I wanted to see the ceremonies, 
and hear the noise. 

However, the Dale fired a gun, hoisted the usual signal for sailing, and at 
ten o’clock we heard the shrill pipes of the boatswain’s mates, and the 
hoarse shout of, — 

“ All hands unmoor ship,” and then the fife’s music commenced, and the 
men manned the capstan with a will, for they were now homeward bound, 
and in came the chain with a rush, the sails were loosed, and sheeted home, 
all at once, and well done, for the officers and crew were watched by a rival 
ship, and it would never do to be slack with keen eyes on all the move- 
ments, and ready to criticize unfavorable evolutions. As the sails were 
mast-headed, the yards properly braced, the anchor was tripped, and the 
Dale gracefully turned its bow toward the outer bay, and then her men 
sprang into the rigging, until shrouds and tops were black with human be- 
ings, and, waving their caps, gave three cheers for the Ceynne and crew. 

In an instant the pipes of the latter ship were heard, and up from the 


On Land and Sea. 


154 


spar and berth decks leaped one hundred and fifty men, as good sailors as 
ever hauled out an earring, or furled a topsail ; into the rigging they jumped, 
raced up as far as the tops, and then returned the Dale’s salute with a roar, 
that sent half the people of Monterey to the plaza, under the impression 
that a new revolution had broken out, this time for sure, and that some one 
would get killed unless very careful. 

Back from the Dale came an answering yell, the Ceynne responded, and 
then the Dale gave a parting cheer, and the men were piped down on both 
ships, and discipline was once more in force, and all was silent on the 
Ceynne as a country church-yard on a winter’s evening, except the clanging 
of the bells, as they struck the half hours, or the piping away of a cutter, to 
convey some officer to the shore for a friendly visit. 

Captain Peterson, in the course of the forenoon, pulled on board of the 
sloop-of-war, to pay his respects to Captain Stripling, and we left Davy in 
charge of the boat, and went on deck, and admired the neatness of every- 
thing that would be likely to attract a sailor’s eye. The brass work shone 
like gold, the ropes were coiled in circles, and the decks had been holy- 
stoned until not a speck of dirt or rust could be seen. In every available 
position forward of the mainmast were boxes of clean white sand for the 
men to expectorate in when their mouths were full of tobacco juice, for to 
have unloaded on the white deck would have been a sin so great that a 
week’s punishment, on bread and water, or the stoppage of grog for a 
month, would hardly have recompensed for the disgrace. 

I admired all that I saw, the men and spars, but, while I was leaning on 
one of the forward guns, and looking aloft at the large masts, and the great 
hoist of the topsails, a voice, that had been used with effect in many stiff 
gales, roared in my ear, — 

“ Get off that gun, and be blanked to you ! ” and, turning, I saw a grislv 
old fellow, who was wiping the cannon with a piece of soft leather, as affec- 
tionately, as if he had been a tender mother, and was dressing her first born 
for a party, where she was sure it would excel all other children, of what- 
ever age or sex. 

“ Beg your pardon, sir,” I said, for I was always polite to aged people, 
“ did you speak to me ? ” and I did not move from my easy position, but 
continued to gaze aloft as if in rapt admiration at what I saw. 

“ Speak to you, you blanked, blanked, loblolly boy,” roared the old man. 
“ Of course I spoke to you. Get off that gun, and be blanked to you.” 

“ Beg pardon, sir, for asking the question,” I answered, removing my 
gaze from aloft, and allowing it to fall on the old man, who was looking at 


On Land and Sea. 




me with such an expression of rage that I feared he would become extreme- 
ly profane unless he cooled off, “ but will you be kind enough to tell me if 
you own this gun ? and what it cost you, cash down, you know ? ” 

“ Well, of all the blanked idiots that I ever seed you is the wusser,” roar- 
ed old grisly. “ Why, blank your infernal skin to blankness, I ’m the cap’en 
of this gun.” 

“Is it as good a berth as being captain of the ship?” I asked, in the 
most innocent tone that I could assume, and Lewey nearly went into con- 
vulsions, he was so pleased at the question. 

The gunner was so beside himself with rage that he had to get hold of a 
belaying-pin to prevent his falling, and what he would have said next I can- 
not imagine, but just at that moment one of the midshipmen, a little fellow 
about my own age, or a trifle' younger, came forward, and asked, in a pert, 
chipper tone, — 

“ Which of you boys is named Thom ? ” 

The captain of the gun suspended his peppery remarks to hear what was 
wanted. His curiosity overcame his desire for profanity. 

“ Dat is him,” said Lewey, and pointed to me. 

“ Boy,” said the little fellow, in a patronizing tone, “ Captain Stripling 
wants to see you in his cabin. What have you been doing? Committing 
murder, 1 should judge, by the looks of your face, or mutiny, or some terri- 
ble crime.” 

“ Regardez vous petit moineaux,” said that bad boy Lewey, in French, 
and then made up a frightful face at the little midshipman, so that the latter 
could see it. 

What the French lad said was simply “ Look at the little cock-sparrow,” 
but, as the midshipman did not know the language, he thought it was some- 
thing much worse, and swelled up at once. 

“ What the devil do you mean by speaking your foreign lingo on this 
deck? ” the little fellow asked. “ Jabber in English if you want to talk.” 

“Did n’t you say that the captain was anxious to see me?” I asked. 
“ He sent word this morning that he wanted my chum and me to dine with 
him. Say, little one, what is he to have for dinner ? Something good, I 
hope.” 

The look of horror that passed over that midshipman's face will haunt 
me to my dying, day. The idea that the captain of a crack ship-of-war 
should invite two common. sailor boys to his table was so absurd and pre- 
posterous, that the little officer was speechless, and could only glance*at us 
in a helpless sort of way, and wink his eyes to see if he was awake, or 


On Land and Sea. 


15 6 


dreaming. Midshipmen, in those days, had less assurance than now, but I 
think they were better sailors, because they had practical experience on the 
ocean, and not theoretical teachings. For once that little fellow could not 
answer back, as his nature prompted, but at last he managed to gasp out, — 

“ The captain wants to see a boy named Thom, in his cabin, if you are 
the one follow me, but I "d like to have you on the Ceynne for a short 
cruise. L ’d warm you, you had better believe.” 

“ You a’n’t big enough to handle a powder-monkey,” I said, and followed 
the officer aft, wondering what the deuse the captain wanted with me. I 
could think of nothing except that I was to be arraigned and tried for killing 
some of the old women on shore the Sunday that Lewey rode horseback. 
He had made a mistake, and confounded a good, nice boy with a bad one, 
and would feel sorry when he discovered that he was mistaken, and then 
apologize. 

I followed the midshipman aft with many misgivings, and imagined if I 
should be shot, or hanged at the yard-arm, and if Lewey would come for- 
ward at the last moment, and say I was innocent, and that he was the guilty 
party. The officers all looked at me a little suspiciously, as though I was 
a criminal, but, conscious of my integrity and goodness, I marched by 
them, passed the marine that stood guard at the door of the captain’s cabin, 
and was announced by the midshipman in these words : — 

“ Captain Stripling, here is the boy you desired to see, sir.” 

Captain Peterson was seated at a table, and on that table were decanters 
and wine-glasses. The old man had taken one or two drinks with the cap- 
tain of the Ceynne, for his face beamed with pleasure, and he actually 
smiled on me, as the naval officer said, to my surprise, — 

“ Thom, my lad, I received, while in Mazatland, a letter from my old Bos- 
ton friend, Mr. Gagena, your guardian, asking me to give you a hail if I 
should run across you, stating that you were in the Admittance, Peterson, 
master.” 

I bowed quite politely, and wondered if he would ask me to take a glass 
of wine. I also noticed that he did not say Captain Peterson. Merchant 
captains are masters in the opinion of naval officers, not captains, as we 
usually call them. 

“It was very kind of my guardian to refer to me,” I said, and mentally 
thanked the old gentleman for his thoughtfulness. 

“ Now, my lad, I desire to do you any favor that I can consistently, out 
of friendship for my old acquaintance,” the captain of the Ceynne said. 
“ Are you tired of sea life ? ” 


On Land and Sea. 


157 


“ Well, sir, I don’t think that I shall want any more after this trip,” I 
replied. 

“ But you are quite satisfied as you are, hey ? ” 

“ Oh, yes, sir, I am very much pleased with my ship, and officers,” and, 
as I uttered the words, my captain beamed on me, and said, — 

“ He is de best boy on my ship. Ve could n’t get along vidout him.” 

This was very flattering from the old man, who had more than once de- 
clared that Lewey and I were young scalawags, and ful\ of mischief. I was 
glad to be endorsed in the presence of such a gentleman as Captain Strip- 
ling, and began to think that we were not as bad as Captain Peterson would 
have us believe. 

“ If there is anything that I can do for you, while on the coast, don’t fail 
to come and see me,” and the naval officer bowed, as if to intimate that the 
interview was ended, but suddenly thought of something, and said, “ Will 
you have a glass of wine, my lad ? ” 

“ Oh, no, sir,” I answered, with an innocent air, so becoming to a good 
boy. “ I don’t think that wine is suitable for lads like me.” 

“Thom is von of dem boys vot never drinks vine,” the old man said. 
“ He is a very trusty lad, and is much liked for his honesty.” 

With this parting shot from my captain, I passed out of the cabin, and 
was looked at by the officers and men as a living curiosity, for all wondered 
what in the name of common sense the captain of the Ceynne could have to 
say to a boy like me, and even the old captain of the gun, when I sauntered 
forward, said, in a gruff whisper, — 

“ If you wants to lean on that gun a little while you can, but don’t soil 
it.” 

“ Thank you,” I said, and, to his intense disgust, continued, “ I fear that 
I might get some of the blacking on my shirt. The gun does n’t look any 
too clean.” 

He growled a benediction on my head, and went off to keep watch of his 
beloved carronade, and see that no one ventured to touch it. Gunners are 
a little tenacious on such subjects sometimes. 

Lewey was anxious to learn all about the subject of my visit, and when I 
told him was delighted. 

“ If ve ever turns pirates,” he said, “ and de Ceynne should overhaul 
us, de cap’en let us go ’cos he is your friend. Now vere can ve find a ves- 
sel to cruise in ? ” 

Just at this important point in our conversation Captain Peterson came 
out of the cabin, with the commander of the Ceynne, and we boys hurried 


I S 8 


On Land and Sea. 


into, the boat, and just as we took our places eight bells struck, and the 
boatswain’s mates piped out, — 

“ Muster aft for grog.” 

Lewey wanted to return on board, and get a tot, for it was an act of cour- 
tesy to ask all visiting sailors to go to the grog-tub, and share with the 
crew, but I told him the old man had vouched for our reputations as good 
boys, and it would not do to destroy all that he had said, for the sake of a 
little rum. This hardly satisfied him, but he submitted, and just then the 
side was piped for the messenger boys, and our captain came down the 
steps, and took his seat, and we shoved off, and pulled to our own ship, 
but, as we arrived alongside, the old man said, in a very mild and pleasant 
tone, — 

“Thom, 1 ’m going arter deer this arternoon, and you may go vid me.” 

I was delighted at the chance, and thought that, after all, it was not bad 
to have the friendship of a naval officer on the coast of California, for Lew- 
ey spread the news that Captain Stripling was my uncle, or father, I have 
now forgotten which, had called me into his cabin, and then and there of- 
fered me the position of midshipman on the Ceynne, and intimated that if 
Captain Peterson did not release me from the Admittance he would send a 
file of marines on board, and take me by force out of the vessel, that I had 
nobly declined to accept of the offer, stating, in positive terms, that I was 
too much attached to my own ship, and crew, that I could not go unless 
Lewey went with me, and was also appointed an officer. I forgave my 
French friend for misrepresentation at the time, and I see no reason why I 
should not at this late day, for I was treated with more consideration than 
ever, and pointed out to captains and shore people as the lad who did not 
want to be a naval officer, and wear a uniform. I can’t remember that I de- 
nied the report, and, if I had, it could not have been of much use, for no 
one would have believed me, as all liked the idea. But, at any rate, the old 
man smiled on me quite blandly at times, and said that all of his boys were' 
young gentlemen, that is, until we did something more outrageous than 
usual, and then he would say with anger that we were “ de wuss little 
scamps dat he ever did see, and dat ve vould all live to be banged by de 
neck,” which was encouraging for the lads, who were straining every nerve 
•to be just as good as they could be, and live. 

After dinner when the Ceynne and Admittance had furled their dried 
sails, which had been loosed to get the sunshine, I put on a pair of shoes, 
— they did not feel good, I had been bare-footed so long, — and prepared 
to accompany the captain on his deer hunt. I hinted to the master that it 


On Land and Sea. 


r 59 


would not be a bad plan to let me take one of the ship’s muskets, and some 
powder, and balls, but he refused to comply. 

“ I vants to live a few years longer,” he said, when I broached the sub- 
ject. “ I dinks I should like to see Boston vonce more. I don’t takes you 
vid me to fool around a gun, and shoots me in de back, ven I is not lookin’,” 
and from this I inferred that he did not have perfect confidence in the 
ship’s muskets. They were a poor lot, take them all and all, and liable to 
burst at any time, if inexperienced persons handled them?* He must have 
thought that I was unaccustomed to fire-arms, by his refusal. 

We landed at the ravine near the fort, where the sand was white and 
firm, and almost frightened the soldiers into a panic when they saw the tall 
form of the old man, rifle in hand, advancing upon them. They had just 
about decided to take to the woods, when I shouted out, in response to their 
challenge, the simple word, — 

“ Amigos,” or friends, and they dropped their muskets, came toward us. 
and welcomed us with the customary greeting of, — 

“ Dar me tobaco,” which, I am very sorry to state, the old man responded 
to with the polite salutation of, — 

“ Go to the devil,” and paid no more attention to the defenders of the 
government, but, as the soldiers failed to understand him, it did not matter 
much what he said to them. 

We struck into the pine woods just back of the fort, and wandered in- 
ward in search of game. As I had to keep some few paces in the rear of 
the captain, out of courtesy, I felt that our luck in shooting would not 
amount to much. The master had entirely original ideas about deer stalk- 
ing, and I did not deem it quite proper to suggest new ones. He thought 
it necessary to warn the deer that we were in the forest for the purpose of 
shooting them, and the sooner they showed themselves, and were killed, the 
better it would be for them and us. Consequently, the captain, when he 
■desired to ask me certain questions, as to the best way to extricate a ship 
from an impossible position, would not turn his head, and speak in a whis- 
per, but roared out the interrogations in a kind of Cape-Horn tone, that 
must have edified every deer within ten miles of us, and when he put his 
foot down, and it is not a very small one by any means, he did not seem to 
care if he cracked a dozen dry sticks, as long as the feet did not slip from 
under his heavy form. The dead leaves we met were very attractive, for 
the captain always waded through them, and kicked them one side, as if he 
was not certain but a deer might be concealed beneath them, and be ready 
to pop out if thoroughly scared by our invasion. 


i6o 


On Land and Sea. 


I enjoyed the walk through those pine woods, with their fresh, delicious 
odors, and watched the flight of birds as they flew from tree to tree, and 
heard the heavy, monotonous booming of the surf on the shore, south of 
the Point of Pines. Once in a while the old man would cry out, — 

“ Do you see anything, Thom ? ” and I would answer, — 

“ Not yet, sir. But we must see deer before a great while,” and resume 
my occupation of watching the birds, and a great golden eagle, that was 
up in the air, and looking for a supper on the dull earth beneath him. 

My words seemed to encourage the captain, and he would crash through 
some decayed twigs, and make such an infernal noise that the eagle scream- 
ed in fright, and mounted upward many fathoms, to get away from the 
earthquake that he thought was raging beneath him, and all the turkey 
buzzard^, for a mile in extent, came toward us, under the impression that a 
vaquero was having a desperate tussle with a wild bullock, and that there 
would be refuse matter for them before long. 

We wandered around until we reached the shore, where the heavy surf 
was booming on the white, sandy beach, and a beautiful sight it was in those 
days. I should like to see if it is the same now that it was in other times, 
and to sit on that identical sand hill, and look off across the bay, and have 
my memory carry me back to boyhood’s days, with my old captain by my 
side, and hear him talk of the great changes that have taken place in the 
last forty years, or since we were shipmates, and, if I live long enough, and 
ever get sufficient money, I will again visit Monterey, and look at the place 
where so many boyish pranks were played on the good people of the town 
by Levvey, Tom, and myself. 

We sat down, and the old man talked long, well, and earnestly of his 
early life, hardships, and the struggles he made to get promotion. For an 
* hour we remained there, and the positions of boy and man were forgotten 
for the time, but, just as we were about to resume our tramp, and frighten 
the denizens of the forest toward the southern part of the country, I hap- 
pened to look up, and there, within ten fathoms of us, stood a majestic 
buck, with a noble pair of horns, and head thrown high in the air, sniffing 
at 'up, and wondering who we were, and what we were after. The deer of 
California, in those days, was not the timid creature of the present period, 
for the Mexicans were too lazy to hunt, even if they had owned good rifles, 
which they did not, and so the game multiplied, and only an American trap- 
per, from across the Rocky Mountains, took a shot at the bucks and does 
that abounded in the woods. I have seen at one time, on a hill, just over- 
looking Monterey, and within sight of the dogs, and sound of the church 


On Land and Sea. 


161 


bells, seven noble deer. They seemed to care but little for my presence, 
only looking at me in wonderment, and without alarm. 

The captain was about to make a movement, but I stopped him with a 
whisper and gesture, and nodded my head in the direction of the buck. 

The old man turned, saw the prize, and reached out his hand for the rifle, 
but he trembled so much, having a touch of the buck ague, that I feared he 
would miss, and we should go back to the ship deerless. With an effort, 
however, he steadied his nerves, brought the rifle to his shoulder, as he sat 
on the sand, took a steady aim, and fired. 

The buck gave a mighty bound, ran for a few fathoms, and tumbled over 
dead. He was shot directly through the heart, and did not move after he 
fell. 

The captain uttered a shrill yell, and ran toward his prize, and then we 
had the pleasure of seeing two does, which had been concealed in a thicket, 
bound out of sight. We might have secured one of them had we remained 
quiet, and re-loaded the rifle. But one was enough for that day, the master 
said. 

We cut the deer’s throat, removed the entrails, and then found that the 
dead buck was more than I could stagger under, for it weighed one hundred 
and ninety-five pounds, after it was dressed, so the captain had to shoulder 
and carry it to the boat, while I took the rifle and powder flask. 

We got on board at five o’clock, and a nice haunch of venison was 
despatched to the Ceynne, for Captain Stripling, and a fore-quarter to the 
ward-room officers, while Lewey and I obtained our share from the galley, 
in a mysterious manner, or we should have missed our portion, through a 
little oversight on the part of the cabin officials, no doubt. 

That evening .t sundown, as the quarter-boat was called away for the 
shore, to bring on board Mr. Melius for the night, Mr. Prentice came to me, 
and spoke very low, as though he was in trouble. 

“Thom,” he said, “I want you to do me a favor, and not let any one 
know it.” 

“ Certainly,” I said, wondering what he was driving at. 

“ The fact of it is,” he whispered, “ I have been suffering for some days 
with a terrible pain in my stomach. I fear it is a cancer. Now take this 
dollar, and bring me off a bottle of Old Cook’s auguardiente. Keep it out 
of sight until I call for it. I hope it will do me good. Wrap the bottle up 
in your monkey jacket, so the captain won’t notice it.” 

“ Certainly, sir,” I replied, and went on shore, got the liquor, and stowed 
it away in the stern-sheets, and delivered it safely. 


f 


On Land and Sea. 


162 


The next night, just before I started for the shore, the second mate also 
came to me, looking very serious. 

“ Thom,” he said, “ take this dollar, go to Old Cook’s, and get me a bot- 
tle of auguardiente. I have a terrible pain in my stomach. I fear it is can- 
cer. Don’t let the old man or Mr. Prentice see the bottle. Wrap it up in 
your monkey jacket, and keep it until I call for it. I can’t stand this pain 
much longer without going on the sick list.” 

“ Certainly, sir,” I answered, and, when we pulled on board, the old man 
sat over my jacket, in which was concealed a bottle of native rum. 

The next night the third mate also took me one side, just before I went 
on shore, and whispered softly, — 

“ Thom, I am in terrible pain, and fear that J have a cancer. Take this dol- 
lar, and get me a bottle of Old Cook’s auguardiente, and don’t let the old 
man, or the first and second mates, see it. Wrap it up in your monkey 
jacket, and hold on to it until I call for it.” 

“ Certainly, sir,” I answered, quite readily, and began to wonder if can- 
cer was a contageous disease. It was no business of mine, however, if I 
did not catch it. I wanted to oblige the officers, for the more I aided them, 
the more they would aid me, by giving me light jobs. 

When the boat came off that night the captain did not suspect that there 
was a bottle of poison in the little locker in the stern-sheets. If he had 
there would have been an explosion, and I should have lost my position 
as coxswain. I would never have told him who the liquor was for, as that 
would have made trouble for the officers. 

However, Old Cook was delighted with his increased trade, and even 
thought of taking a wife on the strength of his large sales, but, just before 
the ceremony was to take place, got drunk, and swore that he could lick St. 
Peter, or St. Anthony, with one hand tied behind his back, and the priests 
said that his catholicy was not even skin deep, and refused to unite him in 
the bonds of holy matrimony with the half-breed woman. She was so much 
disappointed that she went to live with a trapper, and did not even ask the 
blessing of the holy fathers on the union, or pay the usual fees, about a dol- 
lar, I believe. The priests cursed Old Cook, and when he got drunk he 
would curse them in return, and so they had a square thing between them, 
and no one to this day knows which got the best of it, and we probably 
never shall, for I don’t believe Cook ever went to heaven, and as for the 
others, we must wait and see, and hope for the best. 

But the officers’ internal cancers were never cured, I am inclined to think, 
for they were always troublesome when we were in Monterey, but did not 


On Land and Sea. 


163 


ache at other ports. However, I escaped all such jobs as slushing down 
the masts, tarring the rigging, or painting spars, and so was inclined to 
bless the diseases to which sailors in California were subjected, in those 
early days. 

One afternoon, while the captain was on shore, and the mate was in 
charge of the ship, we had something that looked like a mutiny for a while, 
in spite of the close proximity of a United-States naval sloop-of-war. Our 
men had become dissatisfied with constant work, and the daily use of fresh 
meat, instead of that staple dish called salt-junk. Beef boiled, fried, and 
stewed, did not suit them, and, led on by Charley, the Dane, there was an 
outbreak, and we boys clustered forward to see and hear all that transpired. 
Anything for a change. 

Charley was an ugly fellow, always grumbling and growling when he had 
work to do that did not suit him, for he only wanted dandy jobs. He was 
not liked by the men, yet, for a time, did lead them. As for us boys, we 
detested him for the airs that he put on, and really hoped that some day he 
would be humiliated, and brought low. There had long been a little ill- 
feeling between Mr. Prentice and the Dane, and it culminated by Charley 
refusing to do some work that the mate had ordered him to perform. The 
man uttered a few impudent words, and walked forward. Mr. Prentice did 
not lack courage, but he would not precipitate a row when the captain was 
on sTiore, for he intended the old man should take a hand, if there was any 
necessity for it. 

The old sailors, to a man, rallied around the Dane, and seemed inclined 
to support him by deeds, but the ordinary seamen, although collected near 
the foremast, merely looked on, and took no sides, for or against the officers 
of the ship. They knew if they did, one way or the other, that they would 
gain nothing, so were disposed to hold off, and see the fun. 

Mr. Prentice went forward, when told that the men were inclined to be in 
a mutinous state, and was followed by the second and third mates, as a sup- 
porting staff in case there were hard blows exchanged. 

“ Well, men,” asked the mate, “ what is the trouble with you ? Why 
don’t you turn to, and go to work ? ” 

“ Ve has had enough of dis bloody old hooker, and de grub ve gets,” was 
the answer of the Dane, with an impudent smile, and a look of defiance. 

“ Then complain to the captain, and not to me. I do not command the 
ship, or regulate the labor. I am told what to do, and see the work car- 
ried on,” Mr. Prentice said, in a mild but firm tone, and with no show of 


anger. 


164 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Ve does no more duty on dis hooker till ve has less vork, and better 
grub,” was the sullen answer of Charley, the spokesman. 

“ Do you all agree to that? ” asked Mr. Prentice, appealing to the crew. 

Three or four said that they did, while others, including English Jack, 
looked at the sloop-of-waf in an ominous manner, and remained silent. 
They knew that, at a signal, a boat-load of marines from the Ceynne would 
be landed on our decks, and all hands put in irons, and punished if neces- 
sary. 

“ Men,” said the mate, in a determined tone, “ I have been in the fore- 
castle as well as you. I worked my way aft. I know a sailor’s duty as 
well as an officer’s. I do not want to be hard with you. I have not been. 
You must go to work, and lay your grievance before the captain. If you re- 
fuse I shall run up a signal of distress, and in five minutes a cutter from 
the Ceynne will be alongside. I have served in the United-States Navy 
three years, and know that with the captains of that service there is but lit- 
tle sympathy for mutinous sailors. Will you turn to ? ” 

“ Blank de navy, and all de cap’ens in it,” was the growl of Charley. 

“ Ve knows our rights, and vill stick to ’em. Ve vorks no more till ve has 
salt beef and pork. Ve is sick of fresh grub. You can’t frighten us by 
callin’ on man of-vars.” 

The mate took one step forward, and I feared that he would strike the 
Dane, but he thought better of it. I will give Charley the credit of saying 
that he did not flinch from the encounter, but paced the deck in front of the 
mate, with a scornful smile on his face, and his hands in his beckets, as if 
daring Mr. Prentice to provoke the conflict. He thought his supporters 
would not permit Mr. Prentice to use violence. 

“ I shall send for the captain,” the mate said, after a moment’s reflection, 
“and not for a cutter from the Ceynne. All who are not with Charley turn 
to.” 

Ten of the men responded, leaving six to sit on the windlass, smoke, 
and discuss their plans. Old Jones and English Jack Went to work. They 
had served in the English and American navies. Scotch Jack would have 
joined them, but had been drinking a glass of auguardiente, obtained in 
some mysterious manner, and was ugly, and wanted to fight. 

“Thom, man the quarter-boat, and go on shore for the captain,” the mate 
said. “Tell him that his presence is needed immediately, as some of the ' 
men refuse duty.” y 

Did you ever notice how delighted people are to carry bad news, or disa- 
greeable messages? Well, we boys felt just as though we had struck a bo- 


On Land and Sea. 


16$ 


nanza of trouble, and that the old man would be taken “all aback ” at the 
intelligence. It gave us something to talk about, to think of, to speculate 
on, and we were in high glee as we hurried our strokes toward the shore. I 
felt two inches taller as I trotted past the custom house, and started in 
search of the captain. 

I found him at last, chatting Spanish with a pretty little Mexican girl, the 
daughter of one of the old residents, who owned cattle on a thousand hills, 
and was always squeezed when there was a revolution. He was as thin in 
person as he pretended to be in purse, when a forced loan was required of 
him. 

I delivered my message in as subdued a tone as possible, to hide the ex- 
ultation that I felt, and the captain looked as though the news bored him, 
and I know it would have bored me had I been in his place. Then he shook 
hands with the lady, although there was no occasion for it, as we did not in- 
tend to sail for several days, and started for the beach, leaving me to follow 
as best I could. 

As he left the house I lingered behind for a moment, and then spoke to 
the lady in a hurried manner, in Spanish. 

“ O senorita hermoso,” I said, “ will you let me kiss your hand, or the 
ground on which you walk ? ” 

The lady actually laughed as she extended her pretty little brown hand, 
and said, in a voice that was like the tones of a French music box, such as 
is carried in one’s pocket, — 

“ Tomar uno, muchacho,” or that is, “ Take one, boy,” and, as I kissed 
her hand, I did not stop to ask if it had been washed quite recently, as 
some men would have done. 

I saw that the captain was under good headway for the beach, and that 
he had not turned to see what had become of me. The kiss on that dear 
little hand emboldened me, as I was rather inclined to be timid, and 
thought I would give a pound of pilot bread — my daily allowance — for a 
salute on her pretty thin lips. 

“ Uno otro beso? ” I asked, and made a motion toward her face, and if 
the little darling did not bend her pretty head, and kiss me as cheerfully as 
if I had been her brother. She looked upon me as a boy, and did not think 
that she was injuring herself or me by giving what I so much desired. 

Ah, well, years have passed since that innocent little kiss, but I remember 
it as vividly as if it were yesterday, for it was the first one that I received 
from a Mexican lady of position. Of course I did n’t count the few kisses 
poor girls gave me, in exchange for ship bread. Those did n’t amount to 


On Land and Sea. 


1 66 


much. But some months after I was enabled to render a service to the lit- 
tle maiden, and amply repaid her for her kindness. It was only to a boy 
that the kiss was given. But I felt so proud of her confidence that I walked 
on air all the way to the beach, and wondered if I had not better run away 
and marry the lady, and become a good Catholic, and a naturalized Mexi- 
can. I think that one more kiss would have made me a convert to any- 
thing that she desired. But she did not give me another until there were 
troublesome times, and then one night, in a burst of gratitude, took a 
rapid advantage of me, and made an effort to kiss my hand. Thank fortune 
she did not succeed, but shed tears when she found that she had failed 
to express her sense of joy at an escape from danger, through my exertions 
in her behalf. 

“Thom,” said the old man, as we walked toward the beach, turning 
around so suddenly that he almost caught me with a double grimace on my 
face, “ vot is de row on board ? ” 

I told him, as well as I was able, what had occurred, but he did not seem 
to be much moved by the information. We pulled leisurely on board, and 
Mr. Prentice and the captain had a quiet conversation on the quarter-deck, 
and then came the order, — 

“ All hands muster aft.” 

The men came to the quarter-deck very slowly, as though they did not 
relish the expected interview, but, as they grouped near the mainmast, the 
captain opened fire with a speech, and it was something like the follow- 
ing: — 

“ Mens, Mr. Prentice tells me dat you has not been good mens dis after- 
noon, and dat you refuses to turn to ven you is told to. Now let me hear 
all dat you vants me to hear, and be quick about it. Who is de man vot is 
to speak for you ? ” 

Charley stepped forward, but he did not seem quite as confident as when 
he faced Mr. Prentice an hour before. 

“ Ve vants salt beef for our dinners,” the Dane said. “ Ve is-tired of dis 
same old ding, — fresh grub. Beside, ve has more vork den is good for us. 
It is on deck at daylight, and not knock off till dark. Ve has no time to 
mend our clothes, except Sunday, and den ve vants to go on shore. Ve 
vishes some changes, and now is de time ven ve axes for dem. Less vork, 
and salt grub.” 

“ Is dere any other mens vot vishes to speak ? ” the old man asked in a 
subdued tone, but he looked dangerous. 

No one answered. 


On Land and Sea. 


1 67 


“ Come, tells me all at dis time, for I vants to settle dis ding here, now, 
and foreber. Speaks to me all de mens vot vants to.” 

“ I has spoken for dem,” answered Charley in an impudent tone, that 
would have enraged a better-tempered man than the master of the Admit- 
tance. 

“ You has, hey ? ” and the old man made a spring, and, before his coun- 
tryman knew what was going to happen, a strong, boney hand had him by 
the neck, and he was lying on the deck at the mercy of the captain. 

“You lets me up,” cried the prostrate sailor, but the rest of the men did 
not move to his rescue, or say a word. 

“ Yes, I lets you up ven I pleases,” was the answer, accompanied with a 
shake that made the Dane’s teeth rattle. “ You gives me back talk, vill 
you ? You tells me vot you vill do, and vot you von’t do, vill you ? Bring 
de irons, Mr. Prentice. I vill teach de mens dat I am master of dis ship, 
and dat no von talks back to me vhile I is in charge.” 

The handcuffs were ready, and soon slipped on the wrists of Charley, and 
then he was allowed to arise, but all the fight was not taken out of him, for 
he said, in a sullen tone, — 

“ You be sorry for dis, you sees if you is not.” 

“ I vill, vill I ? ” and the old man’s heavy fist was raised. If he had 
struck the sailor would have been badly hurt But the captain thought bet- 
ter of it, and let his arm drop. He would not take advantage of the Dane’s 
defenceless-condition to punish him. There were other ways at his dispos- 
al, and he knew how to use them, when the proper time arrived. 

“ Put dat man in de run,” the captain said, meaning the darkest and 
most disagreeable place on board the ship, and then turning to the crew, he 
dismissed them with these words : “Go for’ard, and do your duty, and let 
me hear no more of dis blanked nonsense. I am de cap’en of dis ship, and 
I means to be de cap’en, and I vill be obeyed, or de vust for you.” 

Every man went forward at once, and returned to his duty, and thus was 
quelled an incipient mutiny, that might have caused trouble to a man with 
less nerve than our captain. 

Charley was kept on bread and water, and in irons, for twenty-four hours, 
then released, the spunk all taken out of him, and from that day his life 
wa,s an unhappy one on board the Admittance. He had failed to gain his 
point, and the crew did not look upon him as a champion any longer. He 
had led them along, and been punished, and that was enough for his ship- 
mates. To be a leader in the forecastle a sailor must not fail at any time, 
and be ready to give harder blows than he receives. 


On Land ana Sea. 


1 68 


Charley strove to regain his supremacy, but Scotch Jack put in his claim 
and taunted the Dane for his want of pluck, and not being a fighting man. 
There was a short struggle over sea chests, tin pans, and pots, a few heavy 
blows; some blood, a black eye, and Charley was no longer of any account. 
A new king had arisen, and sat upon the throne. No inquiries were made 
about Jack’s black eye, or the Dane’s bruised face. The mates knew the 
meaning, and did not profess much curiosity on the subject. They were 
not sorry that Charley had fallen, and we boys were delighted. The next 
bottle of auguardiente I brought off for one of the officers, I pulled the 
cork, poured out two gills of the liquor, filled up with water, and gave 
Scotch Jack such a tot of grog one evening, he thought for a while that 
he was in paradise, and that I was a cherubim with wings. But the mate 
said that Old Cook’s auguardiente was growing weaker, and did not seem to 
hit his cancer as formerly, and he feared it would ultimately carry him by 
the board. 

As I have said, there was not a boy on the ship who did not hate Charley, 
and we were glad of his downfall, for he had been cross and overbearing in 
his course toward us, and spoke and acted as if he was an officer, instead 
of a foremast hand, while Scotch Jack was pleasant, and would always show 
us how to do fancy jobs, and make all kinds of curious knots. Beside, Jack 
was peaceable, except when he was drunk, and that was not often, for he 
could not always get liquor. 

And now commenced the delightful task, to the officers, of working up 
Charley’s “old iron,” as it is called on ship-board, a deliberate system of 
breaking down a man who is disliked by the people of the cabin. He had 
always been given the best of jobs, such as repairing sails, pointing ropes, 
making knots, and knew nothing of the drudgery of bringingoff hides from 
the shore, or of being in the water at all hours of the day and night. This 
was changed. He was called upon to perform the most degrading jobs 
such as ordinary seamen have to undertake. He was made to scrub the 
deck with brooms, pass water, use a swab, to tar down the rigging, beat the 
rust from the iron work, to wade in the water, carry hides on his head, and 
do a hundred things that must have galled his spirit, and made him nearly 
burst with mortification and rage. The mates would pile on the burdens 
with a calm indifference to his sufferings, for they had received orders to 
work up his “ old iron,” and they liked the job. 

Had the Dane refused to do what he was was ordered to perform it would 
have been mutiny, and then the captain could have made a “spread eagle” 
of the man, for in those days merchant skippers could tie up a sailor, the 


On Land and Sea. 


i6g 


same as on board a man-of-war, and inflict as many blows as they pleased. 
Charley knew all this, and did not dare to provoke a flogging, the most de- 
grading punishment a sailor can receive. He had aimed high all the voy- 
age, and had overshot the mark, yet he would have succeeded if he had not 
met a spirit that was more resolute than his own. He had grasped at a 
sceptre, at d failed to secure it. He was helpless. 

At last the fellow grew sick, or pretended to be ill, and could do no duty, 
as he said that he had rheumatism in his legs, from exposure to the weather. 
Still he was kept at work picking oakum, or knotting yarns, and there was 
no peace for him. Even the ordinary seamen grew so bold as to call him 
an “ old sojer,” men who had been compelled to wait for their food until 
the king had overhauled the kids, and selected such meat and duff as he 
pleased, regardless of the wants of others. Then the boys snorted at him, 
and mocked him, and the officers heard them, and rather encouraged the 
scamps to kick the man when he was down. Even Lewey had a fling at 
him, and wanted to know if he and his countrymen would like to surrender 
some more naval ships to the English, and help break down another Great 
Napoleon, forgetting that the Danes fought well to save those ships, and 
would have kept them, and licked the English out of their boots, had not the 
admiral of the latter asked for a cessation of hostilities, when getting the 
worst of the battle, and then moved his' vessels to good positions, and re- 
newed the fight to better advantage. 

I pointed out to Lewey his injustice, but the French lad was wild over 
Napoleon, and replied, — 

“ Dey got de ships, and de Danes should have knowed dat de English 
vould cheat ’em at last. Dat is de reason I laugh at Charley, and I hate all 
who do not love de name of de Great Napoleon.” 

Some few days after the episode with the crew, the black doctor gorged 
himself one afternoon with tripe, and other refreshing food, and had such 
an attack of the colic, that he howled like a negro at a revival. As it was 
evident he could do no work for several days, — although the captain gave 
him about a quart of refreshing salts, to stimulate his system, — the old man 
looked over his crew to see who should do duty in the cook’s place, and, by 
a happy inspiration, one of those ideas that come to a man only once in a 
lifetime, he fixed his eye on Lewey, laboring under the impression, like 
many other people, that, because the lad was French, he must be a natural- 
born cook. He thought it would sound well with the Mexicans to say that 
his mesa was supplied by a French cordonbleu, and that it would give his 
cabin an air of importance never before attained. 


lyo 


On Land and Sea. 


Levvey was called aft, and informed of the honor that was to be conferred 
upon him, and, although the boy assured the old man that he never cooked 
so much as a meal of victuals in his life, it made no difference. The cap- 
tain supposed it was the natural modesty of the lad that prompted him to 
decline the office, and, to my consternation, Lewey was ordered out of the 
boat, and into the galley, to get breakfast. 

To my surprise the French lad did not seem much dejected at the change, 
and I thought that he was a little ungrateful not to show more feeling at the 
parting, after all the favors I had shown, in permitting him to carry the old 
women and men to the boat, through the surf. But I consoled him with 
the suggestion that he could now supply me with all the little delicacies I 
desired, and not be under the necessity of stealing them. 

“The saints forbid,” the French lad said, as he laid a hand most affec- 
tionately on my neck. “ Don’t you eat anyding dat I prepares. You jist 
vait, and you see de kind of cook dat I am,” and the boy sighed, as he im- 
agined the style of messes he was likely to dish up. He was very deep 
and cool. 

The next morning Lewey went to the galley at an early hour, started a 
fire, and seemed to enter into the spirit of his new business with much zeal 
and energy, and when the hands were told to get breakfast, they carried 
their pots to the galley with much confidence to eat their usual supply of 
coffee, while the kids were filled high with fried meat, but it had a queer 
look, even if there was enough for all the men’s breakfast. 

Soon there was a howl and a roar from the forecastle, a yell and a scream 
from the steerage, a damn and a curse of magnitude from the cabin, and 
then a swift tramping of feet on the deck, and violent exclamations, 
and now the old man came out of the cabin, his nose as wrinkled as a ram’s 
horn, and each hair on his head standing erect, as though he had just 
heard that his best girl had married some swab of a landsman. As he 
emerged from his private retreat he was confronted with angry men, each 
with a tin pot in his hand, while the ordinary seamen carried the kids of 
smoking beefsteaks. 

“ Veil, vot in dunder does you vant now?” asked Captain Peterson of 
the crew. 

“We want to know what kind of grub this is for hard-workingmen?” 
Old Jones demanded, and handed his pot of coffee to the old man to taste. 

The captain took a sip of the beverage, and spat it out on the deek, with 
a look of deep disgust. 

“ By blank,” he yelled, “ it ’s salt water. Just vot ve has in de cabin.’' 


On Land and Sea. 


i/l 


“ And look at this grub for our breakfast,” Old Jones continued. “ That 
bloody Frenchman calls it beefsteak.” 

The old man examined a mass of white, raw meat, and a look of contempt 
passed over his^face, The new cook had fried the stuff in hot water, in- 
stead of fat, and not half cooked it at that, consequently it was parboiled, 
and stale, and wilted. Lewey had also forgotten to substitute fresh water 
for salt in the coppers, and the coffee was made of the latter, and not drinka- 
ble for those who like their doncoction of beans and chiccory without sea- 
soning. 

“ Send dat French scoundrel aft,” the old man roared, and Lewey came 
to the quarter-deck, not in the least cast down by his failure. The men 
looked threatening, and, had not the boy been a favorite, they would have 
cobbed him over the windlass, before they went to the captain, and com- 
plained. 

“ Vot in de debil is de meanin’ of dis ? ” roared the old man, pointing to 
the pots of coffee, and the kids of meat, as soon as Lewey made his appear- 
ance. 

The French lad did not lose a bit of his jaunty confidence as he an- 
swered, — 

“ Pardon, mon captain, I has made von grand mestake vid de coffee. 
You see I is all in de great hurry dis morning, as eberyding vos new to me, 
and I axes Thom if he vill fill de coppers vid de vater, and, by gar, I no tell 
him dat it is de fresh vater dat I vants, and he puts in de salt, and I is not 
avare of it, and dat is all I knows about it.” 

“ Thom, is that true ? ” asked the old man, turning to me, just as though 
I would deny anything that Lewey stated, and, although I knew nothing 
about the salt water or the coppers, I never admired Lewey so much as 
when he stood there facing the captain, and calling on a good boy to sus- 
tain him in his statements, as he knew that Captain Peterson would believe 
every word I uttered, and the officers also. 

I was about to speak, but Old Jones took the wind out of my sails by 
saying, — 

“Let him hexplain about the grub, sir. We will accept his statement 
about the coffee, but what has he to say about the meat? ” 

“ Ah, de beefsteak. Yes, I tells you all about dat. You see I forgets dr 
fat till it vas too much late. But for de dinner; oh, mon amis, you skall 
see de bon dinner I gets up for all hands. De booful bouillon, so rich and 
nice, and de beef so tender. Ah, you vill all cry out ven you taste him, ‘ De 
French lad is de cook for us all de rest of de vige, and crews of de ships 


V/2 


On Land and Sea. 


envy de Admittance, and vant to come on board of us and stay, just for de 
nice grub.” 

“ Blame me, if I believe they will,” Old Jones growled. “ Cap’en, we 
don't want any more of this Frenchman’s dog messes. We has to work 
hard, and we wants good grub. We believes the blamed scamp wants to 
pizen us all, so that he can turn pirate.” 

Lewey smiled in a cold and disdainful manner, but refused to reply to the 
wrong accusation. 

The old man sympathized with them. The wrinkles left his nose. He 
had had salt coffee in the cabin, but the steward had looked out for the 
breakfast, and a cup of tea usurped the place of coffee. He took one or 
two turns on the quarter-deck, and then his mind was made up. He would 
have to forego the pleasure of boasting of the services of a French cook, or 
stand the chance of being arrested for murder by some revengeful Mexican 
whose wife or father might be poisoned on board. He was ambitious about 
his mesa, or table, but he must drop all that, and confine himself to plain 
food. Fie sighed/and looked at Lewey, and the French boy looked at him, 
the former, so bright, so innocent, that I wanted to take him in my arms, 
and call him blessed. I felt proud of him that morning, more than ever. 

Then the captain stopped his promenade, and a soft look came into his 
face, as he said, — 

“ You scoundrel, you gets out of dat galley, or I kicks you out pretty 
quick. You don’t know enough about de cooking to serve up a dish fit for 
a greaser. You calls yourself a French cook. Bah! you makes me sick 
vid your blanked messes. You takes your place in de boat, and don’t you 
go near dat galley agin vile you is vid me.” 

A far-off, regretful look came into Lewey’s eyes, as he thought of the dis- 
grace of being dismissed from his position, but he kept back the tears man- 
fully, if disposed to shed any, and simply said, — 

“ Von’t you let me try de bouillon for de dinner, cap’en? Oh, de bonne 
soup dat I vill make. You vill all like him so much.” 

“ Blank you, and your blanked hog’s mess,” roared the old man, in a rage. 
“ If you go near dat galley any more I ’ll put a rope’s end over your back. 
Now, mens, go for’ard, and de steward vill get you some breakfast, and cook 
de dinner for you, and tomorrow de doctor vill be veil, as I shall give him 
another quart of salts dis mornin’. Mr Prentice, do not turn de peoples to 
till they has had something to eat. Now you goes for’ard, and be good 
mens,” and then the captain turned to Lewey, and uttered words that he 
has not forgotten, even to this day, for he repeated them to me the last 


On Land and Sea. 


T 73 


time I was in Paris, and laughed so loudly over the recollection, that the 
gar^on thought the admiral had taken leave of his senses, or was drunk, and 
get what the captain said was simply, — 

“ You calls yourself a good cook, does you ? You don't know how to pre- 
pare a beefsteak even for a Mexican. Don’t tell me dat all Frenchmen un- 
derstand how to cook. It ’s a blank lie. Clear out,” and then he told how 
we retreated to the steerage, and put blankets over our heads to prevent the 
shrieks of laughter that would find vent, while Lewey, as soon as I could 
command my voice, and speak to him words of congratulation on his escape 
from the galley, winked one of his blue eyes in a knowing manner, and said 
in French, — 

“ Rire vous de bonnet,” or “ Let us laugh in our sleeves,” or its equiv- 
alent in English. 

He had nearly poisoned the whole ship’s company, but escaped the 
heat, dust, and grease of the galley, and thought the risk a cheap one. Fie 
was never asked to cook another meal while in the Admittance, and con- 
tinued with me in the quarter-boat all the time we were on the coast. 

It was reported by Mr. Cushing, who had not yet sobered down, that we 
were to get under way at the same time the Ceynne did, and that’both ships 
were bound for San Francisco, where the sloop-of-war was to re-fit, and take 
in wood and water. We were to have a race, but, as we had to stop at 
Santa Cruz, we did not think that it would amount to much, Santa Cruz be- 
ing over the other side of the bay, almost due northwest from the anchor- 
age of Monterey, and about fifteen miles distant, although I am not sure as 
to a mile or two, more or less. 

On the 20th of April we got under way at eight o’clock, or as soon as the 
men had eaten breakfast, and bid farewell to Monterey, and all the pretty 
senoritas, and petty officials of the custom house, who had lived on iis for 
over a month, and saw us depart with regretful eyes. We manned the 
windlass with a will, and loosed and made sail as rapidly as our small num- 
ber of men would permit, but we were determined to show the officers of 
the Ceynne what a merchant ship could do, eyen if she did not have one 
hundred and seventy-five men on board. We hoisted and sheeted home all 
three topsails at once, covered the ship with canvas at the word “ Let fall,” 
and run up and down the rigging like monkeys, and, as we tripped the an- 
chor, the Admittance turned gracefully toward the north, and, with a light 
breeze from the west, stood over for our port of destination. As we passed 
near the stern of the sloop of-war. Captain Stripling and his officers raised 
their caps, as a parting salute to Lewey and me, or they may have intended 


On Land and Sea. 


174 


the courtesy for Captain Peterson, as the latter returned the compliment, 
and we did not, owing to our modest natures. As we drew ahead, and up 
toward the Point of Pines, we heard on the man-of-war the shrill whistle of 
the boatswain’s mates, and the hoarse call of, — 

“ All hands unmoor ship,” and then the sharp notes of the fife as the men 
stamped around the capstan, and in ten minutes the vessel was covered 
with white canvas, fore and aft, and the sloop-of-war standing in our wake, 
braced up sharp, and with royal-yards crossed, and royals set, and white 
foam at the cutwater, and bending gently over to the increasing breeze, like 
a graceful girl, while waltzing with a good partner, and the man she hopes 
to make her own, providing he is an eligible parti, and the old folks do not 
oppose him too much, and they are not likely to if he has money, as dispo- 
sition, goodness, and a correct moral character, are not so desirable as they 
were many years ago. 

We took extra pulls at the sheets and halyards, set our royals, trimmed 
the sails so that they would catch every breath of air, sent Chips to the 
wheel, and there was no occasion to tell him to steer small, for he was the 
best helmsman in the ship, put a gang of men into the hold to trim the 
vessel a little more by the stern, and then the race had commenced in ear- 
nest, naval vs. mercantile architecture struggling for the supremacy in a sail- 
ing match. 



A NARROW ESCAPE. 


PART SEVENTH. 

THE RACE, AND ITS RESULT.— WORKING SHIP TO WINDWARD. — SANTA 
CRUZ. — A DUCKING. — A FEAST OF STRAWBERRIES. — CAPTAIN GRA- 
HAM. — OFF FOR SAN FRANCISCO. — HOW THE TOWN LOOKED FROM 

TELEGRAPH HILL. — ARRIVAL OF THE CEYNNE. — CAPTAINS RICHARD- 
♦ 

SON AND SUTTER. — MILKING A COW. — SAN JOSE. — A HORSEBACK 
RIDE. 

I T was an exciting race we had entered upon, and the captain showed his 
anxiety by the frequent looks which he cast aloft, to see that every sail 
drew, and that the yards were braced up just enough to send the ship 
ahead at every heave of the long, heavy swell that we met, as we drew 
past the Point of Pines. The Ceynne was following directly in our wake. 
Her canvas had an immense spread, was new, and set like boards. She 
was deep in the water, drawing some two feet aft more than Lhe Admittance. 
As long as the breeze was light this was in our favor, but white clouds were 
gathering in the northeast, and we knew that more wind was certain to ap- 
pear before ten o’clock, and then we should have all that we wanted to hold 
our own, as the sloop-of-war would be enabled to carry sail longer than we 
could, and take it in quicker, if necessary. 

The breeze freshened, and headed us, but the Admittance began to go 


On Land and Sea. 


l 7 6 


through the water at a gallant rate, to throw the spray from her bows, and 
to settle down to her work, as if she knew' what was expected of her, and 
was prepared to meet our anticipations. We had never yet been beaten, 
except in the instance of the slaver, on the other side of the land, and we 
hoped that we should be successful in this, the most ambitious match that 
we had ever undertaken. 

The wind headed both ships at the same time, so there was no advantage 
to either party, and the noble sloop-of-war did not gain an inch on us. But, 
as the breeze freshened, and sang through the rigging, our ship bent over, 
and sent the spray all over the topgallant-forecastle, as we struck the long, 
heavy rollers of the Pacific. Our royals were pulling like ponies, and the 
masts bent and swayed, but still the old man watched them, and did not 
give the order to clew down and up, although at each halyard stood a boy, 
to let go at a moment’s notice. 

The Ceynne was following us with a huge bone in her mouth, laying 
down to her work, and sending the spray high in the air, as she plunged on- 
ward, but did not gain a fathom. In fact she rather lost ground as the 
breeze freshened, but at last the captain gave the order, — 

“ In vid de royals, Mr. Prentice, — all three at once. Ve can’t carry dem 
any longer vidout fear of de spars.” 

Down came the royal-yards on the caps, and before they were clewed up 
the boys were already aloft, and handing them in ship-shape style. Then 
the fore and mizzen royals of the Ceynne were stowed, and still the Admit- 
tance held her own, and gained a little at every jump, and the old man’s 
face looked like a bridegroom’s with a rich wife in tow, and no father or 
mother to stop the supplies, if the husband was extravagant. 

The wind still freshened, and hauled more to the northerd, so that we 
had a dead beat across the bay. As the breeze increased we began to look 
anxiously toward our topgallant-sails, and wonder how much longer the old 
man would dare to carry them, for the masts were bending and swaying, 
but the sticks and backstays were good, and stood the strain, as though 
aware that much depended on them in the race. But the time came when 
we could no longer carry so much sail with safety, and the old man reluc- 
tantly gave the order, — 

“ In vid de fore and mizzen topgallant sails. Send up de boys to hand 
dem, while dey are being clewed down.” 

Four of us boys sprang aloft, and stowed the sails, and, before we were 
ready to lay down, the maintop-gallant sail was clewed up. Then we had 
the pleasure of seeing the Ceynne hand her fore and mizzen top-gallant 


On Land and Sea. 


'77 


sails, but she still held on to her maintop-gallant sail, and carried it all the 
forenoon, although we expected to see her topgallant mast go over to the 
leeward at every plunge of the ship' into the heavy head sea. 

It soon became time to make a tack, and get under the lee of New-Year’s 
Point, where we would have less sea, and, as we were to work ship with our 
huge mainmast set, all the laggards were pressed into service, cook, stew- 
ards, and even Mr. Cushing being required to take a hand. As every one 
had stations we could labor to good advantage. The first and third mates 
had charge of the forecastle, and head yards, with some of the best men in 
the ship to help them, the cook at the foresheet, as usual, and the second mate 
at the lee main braces, and lee main sheet, while three boys attended the 
cross-jack yard. The captain overlooked everything from the quarter-deck 
and once in a while lent his great strength where it would do the most 
good. 

“ Stations for stays,” roared the old man, and we all took our positions, 
and waited for the next order. 

“ Put your helm down,” the captain said to the man at the wheel : “ hard 
down.” 

“ Hard down it am sir ” roared Old Chios who was wishing that he had 
a drink of water, and a piece of tobacco, but dared not ask for either, as he 
was so busy. 

44 Hard alee,” yelled the captain. 

“ Hard alee,” echoed the chief mate, from the forward part of the ship. 

44 Raise tacks and sheets ” thundered the old man. 

44 Raise tacks and sheets,” was cried fore and aft, and the tacks and sheets 
of the huge mainsail, foresail, and jib were let go, and slapped and cracked 
before the clew garnets could check them, by hauling up a little. 

The Admittance came into the wind like a prize yacht. The spray flew 
ever the cat and night heads, the bobstays were buried out of sight, as she 
plunged forward to meet the embrace of the head seas, the topsails flutter- 
ed, then caught aback, fore and aft, and just at the right moment the captain 
called out, — 

44 Mainsail haul,” and the heavy yards were swung around, and the ship 
was on the other tack. As we braced the after yards sharp up, men ran to 
the fore braces, and awaited the order of, — 

44 Let go and haul,” and round came the head yards, and, as they were 
swinging into place, the mate attended to them, and saw that they were prop, 
erly trimmed, while the old man looked to the after yards, and the rest of 
us led the main sheet to the capstan, and another gang clapped a watch* 


On Land and Sea. 


178 


tackle to the maintack, and boused it down, the weather braces were hauled 
taut, and the ship was headed for the shore, and throwing the spray high 
in the air as she shook the seas from her bow. 

The ropes were coiled up, and then we watched the Ceynne follow our 
example, and a very pretty sight it is to see a crack man-of-war, not one that 
goes by the aid of a teakettle and a propeller, but a regular sailing vessel, 
make and take in her canvas, or tack shj|^ There are so many men to do 
the work that it is mere play to swing the heavy yards, and haul aft sheets, 
and board tacks. 

The Ceynne did not disappoint our expectations. She made a beautiful 
sweep up into the wind, and came around like a t<^>, following our example, 
but her bow was a little to leeward of us, and we saw that she was out- 
sailed, for we made tack and tack all the forenoon, and at three o’clock 
P. M. we were a quarter of a mile to the windward. Then we ran in, and 
anchored under the lee of the land, and found that wi were at Santa Cruz, 
although not a house could be seen, nor a single inhabitant, but the surf 
was fearful. 

The Ceynne stood off the coast, to beat up to San Francisco, while we 
had to wait for hides, and sell the Mexicans big bills of goods, and trust to 
luck for payment. 

We anchored about half a mile from the beach, in the range of high sand- 
hills, and if ever men had occasion to curse a place, and condemn it to 
everlasting perdition, we were the ones, for here we had several times to 
raft off lumber and shingles, and up to our necks in water twelve hours a 
day, for a week at a time, owing to the greed of our agent, who cared noth- 
ing for the health of the crew, if money could be made for some one. It 
was cruel work, and no other ship on the coast would engage in the labor, 
even to oblige Mr. Melius. If our captain had put his foot down, and said 
that he would not permit his men to perform such unnatural work for a 
sailor, the whole thing could have been stopped, and the voyage made much 
more pleasant. But it was Mr. Peterson’s first trip as master, and he did 
not well know his rights until it was too late to remedy the evil. 

The beach of Santa Cruz did not appear inviting, as we surveyed it from 
aloft. The surf was breaking heavily, and it looked as though some of us 
would get ducked the next morning, when we landed, and our predictions 
were true, for, when we pulled ashore after breakfast, the old man at the 
steering oar, we had to wait outside of the rollers a long time before we 
dared to attempt to land, and, when we did give way, a big wave followed 
*s in, and broke over the stern of the boat, and the steering oar caught the 


On Land and Sea. 


m 


captain under the arm, and then I saw a long body, and all legs, in the air, 
and the next instant we were broadside on the beach, the boat filled with 
water and sand, our oars scattered in various directions, every one of us as 
wet as if we had been soaked in a tank of cold brine. When we had cleared 
our eyes of the salt, and spat out a few spoonfuls of sand, we turned our 
heads, and saw an angry-faced man in the midst of the rollers, and, after 
the owner of that face had gained the beach, he turned on us, and indig- 
nantly asked, — 

“ Vot de devil did you do dat for, you monkeys ? ” 

We thought this a very pertinent question, considering that we had noth- 
ing to do with navigating the boat, and had obeyed orders; but, for the life 
of us, we could not help laughing, and we did laugh loud and hearty, and 
that bad boy, Lewey, nearly burst a blood-vessel, he was so pleased. It 
would not do to acknowledge that the old man was the object of our mirth. 
That would be contrary to discipline, and, when the captain turned on Lew- 
ey, and, in a fierce tone, asked, “ Vot de devil you laughin’ at ? ” the French 
lad could do no less than point to Davy, and pretend that he was the one 
who excited his mirth, for Davy was at that moment scooping the sand out 
of his shirt and hair by the handful. 

“ Oh, it vos him you laugh at?” asked the old man mildly. “Veil, you 
laugh at him all you please. He does look very funny, now dat is a fact,” 
and the captain joined in with us, and then Lewey and I did roar, for, of 
the two, the old man presented the most ludicrous appearance, as his white 
shirt was limp, his blue clothes covered with sand, and the color had start- 
ed, and was showing its traces on hands and face. As we wanted all the 
enjoyment to ourselves, we did not call the master’s attention to such trifling 
matters. 

Mr. Melius here joined us, having ridden from Monterey on horseback, 
and said that there were five hundred hides to go off to the ship in the 
course of the day, and that quite a number of Mexicans would be down to 
be rowed on board, and we must wait for them. At the same time he sent me 
on an errand to a Captain Graham, who lived near the old Spanish Mission, 
and carried on the business of sawing out redwood boards from logs, there 
being plenty of large trees just to the northerd of the place. I started on 
my errand, but stopped to look at the old Mission on my way. It seemed 
to be gradually going to ruin and decay. The adobe walls, that inclosed a 
small garden, which must have been very handsome when the priests were 
a power in the land, were falling apart, and but few flowers and little fruit 
could be seen, where once there was an abundance of both. 


On Land and Sea. 


180 


The stillness of a church-yard prevailed all through the town. Three or 
four Indians were lying in the sun, and before some of the doors saddled 
horses were fastened, to be used in case any of the inhabitants should wake 
up in the course of the day, and desire to cross the street on an errand of 
life or death, for nothing else would cause them to move, or make haste, of 
a hot forenoon. 

As I stopped opposite the Mission Church, where all was so still and 
death-like, a small door opened, and a priest came out, clothed with loose 
robes, large hat, and bare feet. He saw me, and made a sign of recogni- 
tion, and then asked in Spanish who I desired to see, and where I belong- 
ed. He did not know that there was a ship in the harbor, but politely 
pointed out the course for me to take to find Captain Graham, and he 
crossed himself as he pronounced the name, for some reason or other, and 
then asked me if I would like some strawberries and bread. 

Of course I did not decline the offer. He beckoned me to follow him in- 
to the garden, and there was told to pick all I desired, and at the same time a 
half-breed Indian girl came toward me, and brought a few slices of coarse, 
dark bread, on a native plate of baked clay, such as the common people 
used. 

The strawberries were large, of fine flavor, and quite abundant. I wished 
that Lewey were with me, as I spread myself over the vines, and made both 
hands tell. After a while I formed a basket of some leaves, by the aid of 
the girl, who was very expert at the business, and gathered a quart of the 
delicious fruit. It seemed to me that it never tasted so good, as in the 
garden of the Mission, on that bright April day, with the good priest stand- 
ing very patiently near me, and rather amused at the verocity of my appe- 
tite. I forgot all about Captain Graham, and my message, and was only 
recalled to both when I could eat no more. 

Then, with a “ Muchos gracias, padre,” I left the Mission garden, and 
went off to search for the captain, and to tell him that the boat was waiting 
to take him on board to dinner. I afterward learned that Captain Isaac 
Graham was a very important political character in California. He was an 
American, and had been in the country some ten years, having crossed the 
Rocky Mountains with a party of trappers, and become a resident of the 
State. He had taken part in all the various revolutions, and was so dread- 
ed, that a whole company of Mexicans would break ranks, and run, if it was 
known he was with the opposition, for he was a dead shot with a rifle, and 
had the courage to face foes without shrinking. Once he had been cap- 
tured, and sent to the City of Mexico as a State prisoner, but proved that he 


On Land and Sea. 


1 8 1 


was fighting for the regular government, for a wonder, and was released, 
and his property restored to him, after a vexatious delay of some years. 

He was not a formidable-looking man, rather inclined to be reticent as 
far as his own deeds were concerned, but was so well thought of that all 
parties desired to have him on their side, instead of in opposition, for they 
feared the crack of his terrible rifle, as he never missed his aim when he 
had a fair sight. 

The captain received me very pleasantly, left his saw-mill and Indians, 
and accompanied me to the boat, where we found half a dozen Mexicans 
waiting to go on board, and terribly afraid of getting wet. We got through 
the surf without much damage, only filling the boat half full of water, and 
soaking the feet of the passengers, something that had not happened for 
many a day. 

The Mexicans must have been treated to a good dinner, and drank a lot 
of wine, for they bought liberally, and a job we had in landing the cargo the 
next day, and keeping it dry. But the worst was in carrying the boxes and 
bales up the sand-hills, and delivering them to the Indian drivers of some 
ox teams, as the lazy scamps squatted on their haunches, and never offered 
to lend us a helping hand, and, when we yelled to them to assist, they 
would drawl out, — 

“ Quien sabe,” and then looked across the bay, instead of at us, with a 
mournful glance, as though watching for the appearance of some liberator, 
who would free them from work, and give them all the tortillas and frijoles 
they could eat. 

We landed the goods by the 22d of April, and received all the hides that 
the people were disposed to part with, and were all ready for sea. I had 
one more attack on the strawberry-vines of the fathers of the Mission be- 
fore we sailed. I was ordered to carry a note to Captain Graham, and wait 
for an answer. As 1 had to pass the old Mission I filled my monkey-jacket 
pockets with ship-bread, and gave it to the Indian girl, with my compli- 
ments, for the kind priest, and also several cakes for her own private con- 
sumption. She was delighted, and led the way to the garden, and told me 
to go in, and fill myself, if I wanted to, and I did, and once -more carried a 
leaf basket of the fruit to my boat’s crew. I did not see the gentle father 
that visit, but met him afterward, and he was always kind to me, and made 
a point of giving me fruit, if there was any in his garden at the time I 
called on him. 

We got under way on the evening of the 22d, bound for San Francisco. 
As we stood out past New-Year’s Point, we met a heavy head sea, and a 


182 


On Land and Sea. 


stiff gale from the northerd. The ship rolled and pitched about so much 
that I felt a little squirmish while aloft, furling the maintop-gallant sail, the 
first time since I had recovered from my seasickness. 

The wind increased as the night came on, and at twelve it was blowing a 
gale, and we were under close-reefed maintopsail, and foretop-mast staysail, 
and standing off shore, but at daylight we wore ship, and headed once more 
for land, which was out of sight. The gale abated toward noon, when we 
found that we were just where we had started from, some fifteen hours be- 
fore, — close in to Santa Cruz. 

Then we made sail, and took a light land breeze, and ran along the coast 
all day, not more than a mile or two from the shore, where the surf was 
breaking heavily, and we could hear its roar and sullen boom even on 
board the ship. There were no farm-houses in sight, no ranches seen, 
nothing but green, wood-covered mountains, and fertile valleys, with a few 
streams of water coursing through them. Chips said that he should like to 
land there, and fill his demijohns, and have one good square drink of fresh 
water before he died. 

Toward night the wind died away, but left just enough air to keep the 
ship on her course, and at daybreak we got a few fresh puffs from the south, 
and, with studding sails alow and aloft, we worked our way toward the en- 
trance of the Golden Gate. At noon we caught a glimpse of the Farrallon 
Islands, looking white and lonely, with thousands of sea fowl hovering over 
them. Then the strong northeast afternoon wind set in, and we took in 
our studding sails, braced up, and headed for the high land, where no en- 
trance could be seen. There was a heavy swell on the bar, some few miles 
from the Golden Gate, and a man was sent into the main-chains with the 
hand lead, to give us the depth of water, but he did not find less than three 
fathoms, and so we soon passed the shoal, and, with a strong flood tide 
bowled along at a rapid rate. At three o’clock on the afternoon of the 25th 
of April, 1843, we saw right ahead of us Alcatraz Island, looking like varie- 
gated marble, with the deposits of sea birds, and the air full of shrieking 
and quarreling gulls, while on the rocks were a hundred or more old sea* 
lions, whose roars, as they fought or struggled for good places, were enough 
to chill the blood of those who did not know that the animals were harm- 
less, unless attacked, and brought. to bay. Off our larboard bow was a 
beautiful island, wooded and green, even to the water’s edge. This was 
Angel Island, in those days as lovely a spot as the eye needed to rest on. 
Off the starboard beam was the presidio, or fort, to guard the entrance of 
the Golden Gate, and containing two brass pieces, but, as neither was 


On Land and Sea. 


*«3 


mounted on a carriage that was capable of sustaining a discharge, it was 
evident that they were intended more for ornament than use. 

As we drew near the presidio a Mexican flag was run up, in answer to 
our signal, and then the solitary soldier, who seemed to have charge, think- 
ing that he had done his duty, pulled it down, put it away, lighted a cigar- 
ette, and went to sleep for the afternoon. 

We looked over at Saucelito, thinking to see the Ceynne, where she in- 
tended to remain at anchor, and re-fit, the best and most quiet place in the 
whole vast bay, but she was not there, so concluded that she was in front 
of Yerba Buena, hidden from our view by Telegraph Hill. The charts of 
the harbor had given the location of a sunken rock (Blossom Rock) directly 
opposite the point of Telegraph Hill, but no two maps agreed as to its lo- 
cation, or the depth of water on it at low tide. One said two fathoms, and 
another three. One chart staked its veracity on the rock bearing such and 
such a course, and another map took its Bible oath that it was two points 
more to the north. To make safe work of it Captain Peterson gave the 
sunken ledge a wide berth, and then we luffed up sharp, and saw a barren 
island off our port beam, which Mr. Prentice said was Goat Island, because? 
at some time or other, a goat had been seen there. We all laughed, as in 
duty bound, and then right before us was spread out the insignificant town 
of Yerba Buena, which is now the beautiful and prosperous city of San 
Francisco. 

We shortened sail as we rounded the point of Telegraph Hill, hauled up 
the foresail, in with the jib and flying-jib, and clewed up the topgallant sails, 
and, when we were about two cables’-lengths from what was afterward 
called Clark’s Point, the helm was put hard to port, and the Admittance 
shot up into the eye of the wind, and down came our topsails, and, as the 
ship remained stationary, we let go the right bower in six fathoms of wa- 
ter, and the best holding ground on the coast, for it was mud and clay, and 
lots of it. 

But the breeze was fresh, and the current running like a sluice, and in a 
few minutes the ship began to make sternway, and out over the windlass 
went the chain, in one sheet of flame, and sparks of living fire flew all over 
the forward part of the ship, as the stout cable revolved around the barrel 
of the windlass, and tore out of the hawse-hole as if the bows of the ship 
were to leave us forever. 

Every moment we expected to see the iron norman break, —an instru- 
ment that is passed through the windlass to keep the chain from fouling, as 
it runs out, — and, if it had, we would have had a mess in clearing it. The 


On Land and Sea. 


184 


old man came forward on the jump, and yelled for us to put handspikes 
under the chain, between the windlass and the deck, but they did but little 
good. The cable still scattered sheets of flame, and run out as fast as ever. 
The immense resistance, however, at last conquered, but not till eighty 
fathoms of chain had passed over the windlass, and a nice job we had in 
heaving it in after the sails were furled. The next time we anchored in the 
bay of San Francisco our chain was weather-bitted at sixty-five fathoms, 
and we were never again caught going astern in a five knot current, and a 
t breeze, and a heavy anchor ploughing up the mud under the 



As soon as the chain was secured, we looked around for the Ceynne. 
She had not arrived, and, although we had remained two days at Santa 
Cruz, yet we were the first to drop anchor in that vast bay, where not a ^in- 
gle vessel but the Admittance was to be seen. There was room for all the 
navies of the world to assemble, had they been disposed to do so, and the 
solitude seemed oppressive to us. 

We were glad to get our suppers at dark, and turn in, tired with our af- 
ternoon’s work, for it had been a hard job to furl sails, heave in cable, and 
moor ship. We had a huge swivel to attach to our chains, and thus prevent 
them from fouling, as the vessel swung with the tide and wind. 

In the evening the fresh breeze died away, and it was calm all night. 
During my anchor watch I could hear the huge sea lions on the rocks, roar- 
ing and grumbling, and all over the town, what little there was, the barking 
of numerous dogs. There were no lights in the houses, as every one 
seemed to have gone to sleep early, to prepare for the onerous duties of the 
morrow. Without sleep, and plenty of it, the Mexican’s life would not be 
a pleasant one. He can sleep easier and oftener than any people I know 
of, except his ancestors, the Spaniards. 

The next morning the old man ordered his boat manned to go on shore. 
We landed on a little piece of beach, at the side of Telegraph Hill, where 
there was a small ravine, or water course, and where we used to dry our 
hides in sunny weather, if any came on board wet from the various 
ranches. 

“ You vait for me,” the captain said, and that was just what we wanted, 
for I was desirous of seeing the place I had heard so much of, therefore, no 
sooner had the old man crossed Clark’s Point, and was out of sight, than 
Lewey and I left the boat for a ramble. 

The first building we came to was the poop-cabin of some condemned 
ship, hauled up on the shore, and made into a comfortable, though rather 


On Land and Sea. 


185 


contracted, abode. A kanaka whom we met — and there was a colony of 
them living on the beach, near the cabin — said that it was occupied by a 
Captain Spear, and his Mexican wife, and he intimated, by a gesture, that 
the captain was fond of a glass of wine, and, if it was native wine, I pitied 
his wife. The owner and his lady had not arisen, so Lewey and I could 
not call, and pay our respects, which must have hurt their feelings very 
much when they awoke, and learned what distinguished company had been 
near them. However, we saw them afterward nearly every time we went 
on shore, for, when the tide was up, we generally landed directly opposite 
the cabin, as it was nearer the town, and at high water we could clear the 
mud flats that ran out some twenty fathoms from the beach, and mean, 
sticky mud it was, extending downward for many feet, as builders afterward 
discovered. 

The kanakas, or Sandwich Islanders, were all seated in front of a rough 
shanty, which they had erected from pieces of boards, bits of sail-cloth, tar- 
paulins, beach-grass, and boughs of trees, and seemed to be taking life 
easy, having eaten breakfast, and were now passing around a huge clay 
pipe, with a stem not over an inch long. Each person took a pull, inflated 
his cheeks to their fullest extent, and, when strangulation seemed quite 
evident, slowly allowed the smoke to escape from his mouth, with a grunt 
of satisfaction, and a look of regret that his chance for another puff did not 
come again for ten minutes. Those whose cheeks were not distended 
were chatting in their musical tongue, like so many magpies, but they 
found time to bid us welcome, and to offer us a piece of smoked salmon, 
there being many large fish lying on the ground near the hut, which they 
had purchased for a hand of tobacco from some Sacramento-River Indians, 
who had been to the bay to trade furs, and salmon, and get a stock of augu- 
ardiente, which they valued more than anything else in the world, and, 
when they did lay in a supply, the noise which those same natives would 
make was enough to keep awake every one but a greaser. 

We sat down, and had quite a chat with the kanakas, who were waiting 
for a chance to ship on some vessel that was trading on the coast. They 
asked many questions about the Admittance, the officers, treatment, and 
food, for they knew that some of them would have to be engaged to pilot 
the boats up the creeks, to Santa Clare, San Jos£, Murphy’s Ranche, and 
other places, and they would not ship in a vessel that was not all right as 
regards grub, and treatment. They were a gentle and good-natured race, 
and had a perfect horror of harsh words or blows from quick-tempered of- 
ficers. Any one could get along with such men by kindness, but they 


On Land and Sea. 


1 86 


would not endure abuse. They were honest and faithful, and could get 
away with much hard work, if it was necessary. 

We found the smoked salmon very nice. I asked the price of one that 
weighed nearly twenty pounds, and the leader of the gang said that I could 
have it for two reals, or a plug of tobacco. I had a hand of the weed in my 
pocket, and willingly made the exchange, and then, having no more tobac- 
co, paid a quarter for a second salmon, nearly as large as the first, which I 
intended to present to the crew, but when the old man saw it, he admired it 
so much, that I generously made him a present of it, for the use of the cab- 
in, and he gave me four large hands of tobacco in return, so that my first 
visit to San Francisco resulted in a speculation that gave me several hun- 
dred per cent profit, for the next day I bought a third fish for a plug of 
mighty poor cavendish, and there was feasting fore and aft. Chips nearly 
killed himself drinking water, in the vain attempt to quench his thirst, in- 
duced by eating smoked salmon in large quantities. They were very nice, 
and not salt. 

We carried our fish to the boat, and, as the old man had not made his 
appearance, we returned to explore the town. We met no one in our walk, 
until we came to an old adobe building, about a cable’s length from Clark’s 
Point, and here we stopped, and looked in. It seemed to be a mill for 
grinding wheat, for there was a poor, disconsolate-looking mule, connected 
with a pole, and it would make two revolutions of the ring, and then stop, 
and turn around to see what was going on in its rear, or if any one was dis- 
posed to fool with its legs. 

A cross between a poor Mexican and an Indian, who seemed to have 
charge of matters, would yell out in the shrillest of Spanish, after each 
halt, — 

“ Caramba ! Diablo! Amigo! Malo! Vamous ! ” 

Then the mule, after hearing such frightful expressions, quietly dropped 
its ears, and went to sleep, and the Mexican w^uld roll a cigarette, strike 
fire with flint and steel, and squat down on his heels and haunches, and 
smoke quite contentedly for half an hour, then get up, and hurl some more 
bad words at his companion, and the mule would wake up, utter a frightful 
bray, as if in remonstrance at the enforced labor, move on for his usual 
two circles of the mill stop, and go to sleep again. The Mexican would re- 
peat his vile epithets, roll a cigarette, and then asked us if we had any to- 
bacco, struck a light, and smoked away quite contented. He was paid by 
the day for his labor, it was evident, and cared but little if he ground a 
bushel of wheat in the course of the usual working hours, say from nine to 


On Land and Sea. 


187 


four, with an hour for a siesta, and as much time as he pleased for his 
dinner. 

Lewey and I were so pleased with the exhibition, that we willingly gave 
the fellow half a hand of tobacco, and won all the gratitude that a greaser is 
capable of expressing, or feeling. This was the town mill, and ground out 
some very sweet but dark flour, such as we used all the time we were on 
the coast, as it was much cheaper, and more nutritious, than American 
brands. 

We left the Mexican and his mule, and wandered on, across lots, for there 
were no roads, or sidewalks, and came to the plaza, but the only building 
near it was a wooden, one-story structure, containing a dilapidated billiard 
table, the cloth torn and greasy, and the proprietor, an American, looking 
as though it would not take much to tempt him to commit suicide, as the 
Mexicans did not play billiards, and there was no vessel in port, except the 
Admittance. If living had not been cheap the fellow would have starved 
to death in a week’s time. He asked us if we had money enough to buy a 
glass of auguardiente, and we said that we had, but were not drinking much 
that morning, and the man groaned, as he exclaimed, — 

“Just my blanked luck, and went into his saloon, and fell asleep at 
once, for he had nothing else to do to pass away the time, when there were 
no vessels in port. I suppose the fellow committed suicide before the gold 
discoveries. I think that I could, even at this late day, pick out the very 
spot where the billiard saloon was located. 

There were several other buildings in the town, one a large one that had 
been erected by some trading company, but the owners had given up the 
property to ruin, and no one seemed to occupy it. The old man was still 
invisible, and we had seen all there was to be seen of the place, so Lewey 
proposed that we should climb Telegraph Hill, and take a view from its 
summit. We pushed on, and, after a short walk, stood on the top, and 
from our elevation could look all over the beautiful bay, and note the 
islands, and the rocks, covered with sea fowl and seals, and the low, sandy 
spit that ran out, like a crescent, with the end pointed toward Goat Island. 
In the rear of the town were vast sand mounds, ever changing, while at the 
foot of the hill, on the Golden-Gate side, was a large adobe house, and out- 
buildings, the residence and ranche of Senora Abarono, a rich widow, where 
I afterward used to go for milk every morning, unless off on boating duty. 
The lady and I struck up quite a friendship. She always welcomed me 
with a polite good-morning, and a drink of fresh milk, and then scolded her 
servants in a shrill voice, as though she desired to infuse in them much of 


1 88 


On Land and Sea. 


her own activity, which, for a Mexican woman, was something wonderful. 
If the men had had some of the energy of that buxom, dark-faced lady, Cal- 
ifornia would have been a prosperous State, even before it was annexed to 
this country, and we would have had to fight harder than we did to get 
possession. 

Away to the southerd of the sand-hills, on the border of a small creek, 
were the adobe walls of the Mission Dolores, once a power in the northern 
part of the State, and with thousands of cattle and Indians at its disposal, 
but now stripped of ail influence by the government. The fathers had 
nothing to do but hear confessions, and administer absolution to the sick 
and dying. Part of the Mission roof had fallen in, the walls were crumbling, 
and no signs of life could be seen near the place. 

Across the bay was the green and fertile district of Saint Leandy, with 
one solitary ranche, close to the head of a shallow creek, and near where 
now stands the prosperous city of Oakland, and the terminus of the Pacific 
Railroad. How little did I think, as I stood there, that morning in April, 
1843, what wonderful changes would occur within the next thirty years ; that 
at my feet would spring up a great and flourishing city, and that the now 
solitary bay would harbor thousands of vessels, from all parts of the world ; 
that noble piers would take the place of shallow water and mud in front of 
the town, and spacious hotels and warehouses, the lonely billiard saloon, 
and deserted store-house, and elegant residences the miserable adobe huts, 
with naked children playing in front of the places where it is customary to 
hang doors, in civilized countries. 

I hope that I shall live long enough to see this modern city, ior I have 
not visited it since 1849, when I anchored in the bay as one of the Edward 
Everett Gold Mining Company. Then part of Telegraph Hill was covered 
with tents, and all of Happy Valley was a seething mass of restless, anx- 
ious, wild-looking men, sheltered in huts, and under all kinds of canvas 
walls, and wading through mud, dust, and sand, cursing the country, be- 
cause gold was not picked up in the streets, or fortunes made at the turning 
of a card. 

I had no time for much more musing, for we noticed the Mexican flag hoist- 
ed at the presidio, and that signified a sail in the offing. Looking toward 
Seal Rocks we saw the sloop-of-war Ceynne, with the fresh morning breeze, 
entering the Golden Gate, with studding sails out, and royals set, making a 
beautiful show, with her white canvas, tall spars, and black, massive 
hull. 

We stood there, on Telegraph Hill, and watched the noble ship as she 


On Land and Sea. 


189 


rapidly approached the harbor, and then, looking down on the straggling 
town, saw the captain leave the adobe house where he had been visiting, 
and head toward the boat. We lost no time in getting to the landing place 
before him, so that he would not exert himself in having a fling at us for 
keeping him waiting, but, when we stated that the Ceynne was sighted, and 
on the other side of the land, his face fairly glowed with pleasure at the 
news. 

“ Veil, veil, is dat so ? ” he asked. “ Ve beats her bad dis time. Shove 
off. I vill go on board, and pilot her in, if de captain vants me to do so.” 

We stowed the salmon out of sight, in the stern-sheets, and pulled 
around the point, and were just in time to get on board, before the ship 
luffed up. Sail had been reduced, and there was a strong ebb tide, so that 
she was not moving through the water very fast. A rope was thrown to us 
from the sheet anchor, which we caught, and secured, and the old man 
went on deck, and told us to remain in the boat, which was very unkind on 
his part, as I wanted to see a man-of-war come to anchor. But perhaps we 
might have been in everybody’s way, and in nobody’s mess, as sailors say, 
so it did not matter much, after all. We could hear every order given, and 
by standing up, and holding on to a gun, could peer through the open ports 
and see the men at their stations. 

Captain Peterson was received quite cordially, and we heard some of the 
officers say, — 

“ Well, you beat us badly, but we met a heavy gale, and were blown off 
the coast.” 

They did not understand the system of land breezes at night, and our 
captain did, and that made much difference in the time of the two vessels. 

The position of Blossom Rock was pointed at, and, although it was 
down on the Ceynne’s charts, it was ten fathoms out of place. That is a 
dangerous error in a strange bay, and no pilot on board. However, the 
United States made short work of that rock, after taking possession of the 
country. A few hundred pounds of powder, or some other substance, re- 
moved the stumbling block to navigation, and ships are no longer required 
to give the point of Telegraph Hill a wide berth. 

The sails were taken in at the word of command, and without an unusual- 
ly loud order spoken. There was no seaman’s song, as on merchant ships. 
The boatswain piped when to pull, and when to belay, and there was no 
fuss of running from one part of the ship to the other. There were men 
enough to do all the work easily, for each had his station, and his duties, 
and was responsible for them, while the people in the tops attended to all 


190 


On Land and Sea. 


little matters aloft, such as furling royals, and topgallant sails, rigging in 
booms, and studding sails. 

“Stand by the anchor,” cried the captain of the Ceynne, as the vessel 
rounded the point, and headed toward the Admittance, and then the after 
yards were braced up, the spanker-sheet hauled aft, and, with a graceful 
sweep, the ship came into the wind, and, at a sign, down came the topsails 
on the caps, and up went the clews, the spanker was brailed, the jib hauled 
down, and, just as the vessel seemed stationary, the order was given from 
the quarter-deck, through a trumpet, — 

“ Let go the anchor,” and down it dropped, and the chain flew out with a 
rattle, and the ship swung with the tide. Then the shrill pipes of the boat- 
swain’s mates signified, — 

“ Lay aloft, and furl sails.” and, before the tweet, tvvoet, had died away, 
the rigging was black with men, and the canvas was rolled up as easily, ap- 
parently, as a lady folds her pocket handkerchief, and then down to the 
deck came the crew, all the ropes were coiled up, the yards squared, and in 
ten minutes there was not a movement on deck, except from the officers, 
looking with extreme disgust toward the town of Yerba Buena, and won- 
dering what the devil they could find to amuse themselves on shore, in such 
a God-forsaken place, as they tersely termed the village. They would n’t 
have any trouble at the present time, for San Francisco is a very hospita- 
ble place, I am told, and can produce more fun for visiting strangers than 
any other city in the union, as all doors are opened to welcome those who 
can bring good recommendations. When all else fails the people take 
their friends to the Chinese quarters, and the visit produces talk enough for 
a year. 

“ Ah,” said Lewey, as he watched all the movements of the man-of-war’s 
men, “next to being a noted and bloody pirate, I had radder be an officer 
of a national ship. It is grand, it is noble. Some day I vill vare a uniform 
like dem mens on de quarter-deck. You shall see me, mon ami, and dine 
vid me, and I vill tell all my messmates vot a bad boy I has for a shipmate 
on de Admittance.” 

I little thought that his predictions would come true, and that he would 
wear the uniform of an admiral before he died, or that I should live to see 
him on the quarter-deck of an iron-clad, and surrounded by half a hundred 
dazzling uniforms, the wearers all looking to the boy of the Admittance for 
orders, and a smile of approval. But he was the same Lewey to me as of 
old, and his high position did not prevent him from paying all due attention 
to his former messmate, only making one mistake in saying to his friends 


On Land and Sea. 


191 


that I was the' worst boy on the ship, when, in fact, he led me by several 
points, and I could not come within a mile of him in taking things from the 
cook’s galley, and downright impudence to all who offended him. 

We pulled back to our ship in time for dinner, and then hoisted out the 
launch, and the next morning four of us were sent in her, with the second 
mate, to fill some gang-casks at Saucelito, on the other side of the bay, as 
the water at Yerba Buena was bad, and very scarce, the Mexicans having 
no use for the beverage, except in the form of coffee, so but few wells 
were dug, and those were not over clean, in our estimation. 

We drifted out with the tide, and then took a slight breeze, and ran close 
to Alcatraz Island, where the sea fowl had built thousands of nests, and the 
guano was over a foot thick in some places. The sea lions raised their 
ponderous heads, and roared at us, but did not otherwise move, so tame 
were they, although we could have touched them with our oars, had we 
been so disposed, which we were not, as we were rather fearful of them, 
and did not know but that they would stave our boat, if disturbed. 

When we got over to Saucelito, the watering place, we found the spring 
was so obstructed by rubbish and filth, that it required a long time to 
cleanse it, and, as one man could do all that was needed, Mr. Davidson 
told Lewey and me that we might wander off for an hour or more, and we 
took advantage of the permission, and climbed a small hill near the beach 
and spring, and found the ground covered with wild strawberries, of de- 
licious flavor. We laid down on the grass at full length, and ate and ate, 
until we could consume no more, then picked a hatful, and carried to the 
second mate, and the rest of the men. As the spring was too roily to fill the 
casks, we again wandered off, and this time in an opposite direction, and 
came to a ranche, where we saw two handsome young ladies, who looked at 
us in wondering surprise, for they had no idea we were a poition of a water- 
ing party, supposing for a moment that we were deserters from some 
vessel. 

They spoke to us in Spanish, and asked us who we were, and where we 
belonged, and, while we were talking, a man came out of the adobe house, 
and addressed us in English, and said that his name was Richardson, that 
he was an early pioneer in California, and had married a iVlexican wife, arid 
was quite comfortably settled, owning thousands of acres of land, and many 
head of cattle. 

But his daughters had many attractions for our eyes, for they were very 
handsome, and Lewey and I fell in love with them immediately, and delib- 
erated whether we had not better run away, and ask them to marry us off 


192 


On La?id and Sea. 


hand, and then lead the life of a California ranchero. The ladies little sus- 
pected the impression they created on two young and susceptible hearts, 
and, if they had, would have laughed, for they flew at higher game than 
common sailor boys, as they had a right to, from position and beauty. We 
saw them many times afterward, when they visited the ship with their 
father, and they always had a pleasant smile for the French lad and myself 
and we were glad when we had them in our boat. They were rather diffi. 
dent about conversation, and knew their stations in life, and were well 
aware of ours, so we seldom ventured on familiar topics unless they 
led up to them by asking questions about our life and standing at home. 

Captain Richardson, as he was called, gave us some frijoles for dinner, 
and we bid the host and ladies a polite farewell, and returned to the spring, 
and passed water to the gang-casks until near sundown, before they were 
filled, and then we started for the ship, and were nearly swamped before we 
got under the lee of Telegraph Hill, the sea was so rough in the channel. 
The casks were hoisted out, and the next day the launch was despatched for 
more water, but 1 did not go, although I did want to have one more look at 
the dark eyes and faces of the Senoritas Richardson. 

Lewey and I were sent back to the quarter-boat for a few days, as the 
Mexicans came on board in crowds, and we were kept on the move from 
morning until night. The goods were sold rapidly, on credit, as usual. 
Here we were joined by a new assistant supercargo, a young man we had 
never before seen. He was named Frederick Teschemacher, a thin, dark- 
looking person, about twenty years of age, quiet and reserved, and very po- 
lite to us boys, when we pulled him on shore, or on board. He was a great 
contrast to Mr. Cushing, and got along with Mr. Melius very nicely, and 
also with the captain, who had considerable regard for him. This same 
Mr. Teschemacher, by a fortunate chance, years afterward, was chosen 
mayor of San Francisco for several terms, and I suppose that he made a 
good one, as I never heard to the contrary. 

One day a flat boat came alongside, manned by ten naked Indians, and in 
the stern was a white man. He brought us two hundred hides, and a large 
lot of beaver and other skins. When he came on deck Mr. Prentice told 
me the visitor was the celebrated Captain Sutter, that he lived a long way 
off, up the Sacramento River somewhere, and had ten thousand wild Indi- 
ans under his command, a strong fort, and employed all the white men who 
came in his way, but that the banks of the river were infested with a cruel 
and blood-thirsty race of cannibals, who preferred white men’s flesh to that 
of bullocks, and so murdered and ate all who attempted to join forces with 


On Land and Sea. 


193 


the captain. I believed all that was told me, and circulated the report 
among the crew. The story was started for the purpose of preventing the 
men from deserting, as it was feared they might do, after learning that Cap- 
tain Sutter harbored every one who had a good trade, like that of black- 
smith, carpenter, or mason. 

The captain was a short, stout man, with broad shoulders, large, full 
face, short, stubby mustache, a quiet, reserved manner, and a cold blue 
eye, that seemed to look you through and through, and to read your 
thoughs, no matter how much you tried to conceal them. He was a person 
who would have been noted anywhere, as something above the ordinary 
rank of humanity He must have had courage and coolness to live as many 
years as he did surrounded by wild Indians, yet keep them in perfect sub- 
jection, and ready to follow him to any part of the State, and fight as he dic- 
tated, when there was a revolution worthy of his attention, as the captain 
did not often mingle with the little affairs of the country. If he fought he 
w'anted something on the tapis that was worthy of a warrior’s steel, and not 
a few shots, and a retreat, and then a fiery proclamation from some defeat- 
ed military aspirant for power and plunder. In many respects he was the 
most remarkable man that ever settled in California, and the only one who 
laughed at all attempts to control his movements, and the men he had in his 
employ. What a dreary life the man must have led for so many years, in 
his fort near the Sacramento and American Rivers, with no companions but 
wild Indians. 

Captain Sutter remained all night on board. He was reported to be a 
Swiss by birth, and formerly an officer of the Great Napoleon’s army. 
When Lewey learned this he wanted to fall down and worship him, and he 
did succeed in exchanging a few r words with the gentleman, but the disci- 
pline of the ship prevented a long conversation. This was the man on 
whose land gold was first discovered in California, and it was the means of re- 
ducing him from affluence to poverty, for hordes of vandals ran off his 
stock, killed his cattle, and took possession of his farm, and mocked him 
when he remonstrated, for his wild Indians were scattered, and, if they had 
not been, the rifles of the miners were too much for them, and they fled to- 
ward the mountains, and Feather River, and the Yuba, and lived on acorns 
and grasshoppers, and shunned the white man as though he was an evil 
spirit, and good reasons they had for keeping out of his company, as it was 
not considered a crime to shoot at a buck, or squaw r , to see how near a bul- 
let could go, and not hit, or kill outright. On Feather River, in 1849, I 
saw a young, beardless boy shoot an inoffensive native, and there were but 


194 


On Land and Sea. 


few expressions of regret for the crime. I am sorry to state that the mur- 
derer was native of my own State, and born within ten miles of Boston. 

After the hides and skins were discharged the Indians rowed the flat- 
boat ashore, near the kanakas, built a rousing fire, cooked the hind- quarter 
of a bullock, had a great feast, smoked, and drank auguardiente, until they 
were in a fit state for howling, and yell they did, and danced around their 
fire, until near daylight, and then they went to sleep, while the people 
of the town felt of the hair of their heads to see that it was safe, and unani- 
mously turned to, and blanked Captain Sutter and his aids in no measured 
terms; even the inoffensive kanakas returned from the sand-hills where 
they had taken refuge during the night, and sat down to a breakfast of 
smoked salmon, and looked with wonder and dread at the naked savages, 
who were sleeping off their debauch, with many bows and arrows by their 
sides, all ready for use. Half a dozen resolute men, well armed, could have 
driven the whole crowd of barbarians into the bay, had they been so dis- 
posed. 

As Captain Sutter was a man of great importance in the northern part of 
California, it was determined to give him a breakfast that would reflect 
honor on the cuisine of the ship, therefore, as soon as all hands were called, 
I was ordered to take the cleanest deck-bucket that I could find, and, with 
Lewey and Tom, row ashore, and go over to Senora Abarono’s ranche for 
some milk. This was a welcome command, but, before we left the ship, we 
secreted two empty bottles in our- monkey jackets, intending to use them, 
if occasion should arrive, in obtaining a supply of leche for our own coffee, 
a luxury we had not enjoyed since I purchased some in Monterey from 
the motherly old Scotch woman. 

We pulled leisurely ashore, beached the boat at the little ravine, on the 
south side of Telegraph Hill, and then Lewey and I started for the ranche, 
walking bare footed over that portion of San Francisco which is now cov- 
ered with palace hotels, enormous stores, elegant residences, and substan- 
tial buildings, such as every first-class city possesses. How little I thought 
as I tramped through the damp grass, that such wonderful changes would 
occur in so short a space of time. If I had been the possessor of five hun- 
dred dollars at that moment, and become a good Catholic, I could have pur- 
chased the whole of Yerba Buena, and then had money enough left to have 
erected a spacious adobe house, but, as I did n’t have the money, or care 
for the future of the place, a fortune slipped out of my hands, like the man 
who could have bought the site of Chicago for a pair of boots, and would 
have done so, only he did n’t have the boots. In my tramps across the 


On Land and Sea. 


195 


town I have more than once encountered rattlesnakes in my path, and 
killed them with stones, taken from the ravine where the landing was usual- 
ly made. I always carried half a dozen rocks in my pocket for just such 
encounters, for it is not pleasant to meet a coiled-up snake, and have no 
weapon handy. 

Senora Abarono was already stirring when we reached her premises. 
Her shrill voice was heard from afar, scolding her servants, and urging 
them to do many things at the same time ; yet, when she saw Lewey and 
me, she gave us a smiling welcome, and pleasant good-morning, and inti- 
mated that we were the best boys she had ever seen, which was news to us, 
but exceedingly gratifying at the same time, for we were just vain enough 
to like compliments of that kind, we heard so many of a different character 
from the prejudiced people on board the ship, who did not think we pos- 
sessed virtues of an abiding character, for reasons beyond our comprehen- 
sion. It is all very well, at this late day, to say that we were good. A lit- 
tle praise during our youthful innocence would have stimulated us to re- 
newed exertions in the right path, and we were sure that we knew the cor- 
rect one, but we might have been mistaken on the subject. 

“ Ah,” the good lady said, as she beamed on us, “ you want milk for the 
captain and cabin, do you ? Well, you shall have it. Pedro,” she shriek- 
ed, “lassoo the milking cows, and be quick about it.” 

Pedro did not seem to think that there was any occasion for haste, but he 
took his reata, and started for the corral where a dozen wild-eyed cows, and 
their calves, were confined, and looked dangerous to approach. We fol- 
lowed the vaquero to note a real California milking operation, and it would 
have made a Vermont farmer wild to have seen the performance. To be 
sure that we were safe from the dangerous-looking horns, as they were 
jerked about in a careless manner, we climbed on top of an adobe wall, and 
sat there, and looked on. 

Pedro did not seem to have any fear of the cattle. He entered the corral, 
regardless of horns and heels, selected a cow, threw his lassoo over her 
head, and dragged her out of the pen, in spite of plunges and bellowings, 
and the shrill bleating of her calf. Then Pedro put up the bars, so that 
the stock could not escape, took a turn with his reata around a stout stump, 
dragged the plunging animal up to it, made all fast, and then secured the 
cow’s hind legs, and tail, with a lashing of rawhide, thus insuring some gen- 
tle milkmaid from being kicked clear through the adobe wall, and into the 
adjoining waters of the Golden Gate, for a cross California cow could kick 
like a mule, and fight like a bull, when so disposed. 


1 96 


On Land and Sea. 


When Pedro had accomplished his hard task, he looked at us, and gave a 
grin of satisfaction, wiped his forehead with the palm of his fragrant hand, 
kicked the calf in the rjbs, because it wanted to get an early breakfast, and 
could not do so as it was muzzled, then lighted a paper cigarette, and sat 
down for a comfortable smoke. In this state of perfect rest Senora Abaro- 
no found him. 

“ Dios gracias,” she screamed, “ what are you doing there? Smoking 
as though there was no work to be done. Up with you, ladrone of the dev- 
il, and milk the cows, so that they can be turned out to graze.” 

Pedro grinned, and, as he had concluded his smoke, got up, winked at us 
again, and went into the house for a pail. It was not a pail that he brought 
out, but something else, that did not look like a bucket in shape, size, or 
form, and it was not made of wood, 

Lewey gave one yell, and fell off the wall in a lit, and laid on the ground 
and laughed so long, that I feared he would burst, and die, before 1 could 
get him on board. The least thing excited his mirth, and he was such a 
funny boy, and saw matter for amusement where others would fail to discov- 
er anything of a ludicrous character. Like most Frenchmen, when he was 
cast down he was very low spirited, and, when the cloud had passed away, 
as light-hearted and gay'' as a kanaka, with plenty of tobacco, and little work, 
and pay going on. 

The lady seized the article, and squatted at the side of the cow. The an- 
imal gave a bellow, and made desperate attempts to kick, but could not do 
so owing to the stout lashings on the hind legs. Then the senora plunged 
at the teats, but the cow was stubborn, and refused to give down a drop of 
milk, and her eyes looked threatening, as she humped her back for a 
mighty leap. But the lady only smiled and scolded. She knew her busi- 
ness. 

“ Let the calf loose, Pedro,” she said, and the muzzle was taken from the 
struggling, impatient offspring, and, with a glad bleat, it ran to its mother, 
butted her, tugged away at the teats, and the obstinate feelings of the cow 
were overcome. Her eyes lost some of their wildness, her bucking ceased, 
and, with a bellow of satisfaction, she gave down milk, aid the calf com- 
menced to gorge itself, but just at this point Pedro stepped in, pulled away 
the glutton, and the lady took its place, and milked the unruly creature 
with perfect composure, or until the supply was exhausted, and then anoth- 
er cow was treated in the same way, and the first one was turned loose on 
the grazing grounds of the ranche, and so on until half a dozen had been 
milked. Just before the operation was completed I went into the house, 


On Land and Sea. 


19 7 


and found a tin pan, and begged the lady to use it to furnish our supply, or 
such as we desired for our bottles. She readily consented, although she 
asked in tones of astonishment what fault we had to find with the utensil 
into which a stream of milk had been falling. We could not make anv ex- 
planation that would have satisfied the lady, so said nothing, although Lew- 
ey swore that he would not touch a drop of milk that did not come from the 
tin, not if he went without leche all of his life, and I acquiesced in his de- 
cision, and thought that he was right, I have not altered my opinion to 
this day, although it is very probable that some of our own milkmen are 
quite as careless in selecting milking-pails as the Mexican lady, only we dc 
not know it, and that Is some comfort. California people were children of 
nature, and did many things which we thought out of place, and uncalled 
for, but education had not taught them that some dishes were not as good 
for one thing as another. How they managed to exist without many of the 
conveniences of life would have puzzled Solomon in his best days, or before 
he took to accumulating wives and other females. 

We were gratified by seeing our milk come from a tin, and we bottled it 
with a grin of satisfaction, as we thought what we got, and what the cabin 
was to receive. We kept our own counsel, and the old man never knew as 
much as he might have known had he questioned us. 

We thanked the bright, vivacious senora, and promised to come the next 
day, and get a fresh supply of milk, and we also agreed to give Pedro half a 
dozen cakes of ship-bread, something he was very anxious to taste, and 
when we returned to the vessel were scolded by the mate for being so long 
absent, just as though we could help ourselves, and, out of revenge for Mr. 
Prentice’s ill nature, we did not describe the milking scene to him, and the 
poor fellow died in ignorance, so it is just as well we kept silent. 

We had milk in our coffee that morning, and it did taste delicious. 
Chips swore that of all the shipmates he had ever met we boys were the 
best, and we rewarded him for so good an opinion, by bribing the doctor 
for an extra quart of coffee, which we geneiVusly presented to the car- 
penter, and received his Swedish blessings in return. 

That same day a wooding party was sent off, near the Mission Dolores, 
where there was a grove of oak-trees. Four men were detailed, and they 
took a week’s provisions, and one of the ship’s old muskets, to kill a bear 
or two, in case they came along toward the camp, and in the afternoon I 
was ordered to prepare for a week’s excursion in a large sloop-launch, 
called the Paul Jones, that had been left for our use by the ship Barnstable, 
and which was kept anchored at San Francisco all the year round, for the 


198 


On Land and Sea. 


use of the vessels that were owned by Messrs. Appleton & Hooper. The 
second mate was to go in command, and I was detailed to act as clerk, to 
give receipts, and deliver such goods as were demanded by the Mexicans 
who called for them. This was quite an honorable position, one of much 
responsibility, and I should have been delighted with the trip were Lewey 
included in the men of the sloop, but for some strange reason Mr. Prentice 
said that he needed one good boy in the ship, and that if an accident hap- 
pened, and two such valuable members of the crew as the French lad and 
myself were lost, the voyage would be broken up, just as likely as not. I 
think that he could not have been serious in what he said, as he grinned, 
and showed his white teeth in a peculiar manner. However, I tried to 
imagine that he was in earnest, and meant all for the best. 

We hauled the Paul Jones alongside, loaded her, and took on such stores 
as we would need for a week’s absence. The old man went on shore, and 
shipped two kanakas, one called Kanaka Charley, and the other Kanaka 
Jack, both natives of the Sandwich Islands, but quite different in style and 
actions. Charley was a silent, reserved fellow, a good pilot all over the 
bay, and a very fair sailor, using but few words, yet attentive and obliging. 
His cheeks were tattooed in red and blue India ink, and his hair was long, 
black, and coarse, but well oiled with cocoanut butter. He was also a good 
cook, and could fry steaks, and make gravies. I liked him on the latter ac- 
count, for a boy can never get all the gravy he wants, when camping out, 
and has a vigorous appetite, and good digestion. 

Kanaka Jack was not tattooed, but he was darker than Charley, with hair 
equally as black and coarse, vivacious and active, full of nervous energy 
and spirits, yet not nearly as good a man as his companion, or as trust- 
worthy. Beside, he was not so r ice a cook, and not acquainted with the 
mouths of the creeks in a thorough manner, for he did not notice objects 
and surroundings, or study over them, like Charley. 

Luckily Mr. Davidson had the latter detailed to accompany him, and the 
next morning, after breakfast, we three embarked in the Paul Jones, and 
set sail for the extreme southern part of the bay, San Jose being our desti- 
nation. 

Lewey shed tears of vexation because he could not go with us, but did 
the next best thing, went into the mizzentop, and waved a piece of canvas 
as long as we were in sight, or until Mr. Prentice discovered the boy aloft, 
and gave him a job that made him wish he was indeed a pirate captain, and 
had the mate in his power for just about an hour’s time. He thought that 
would be enough to satisfy his vengeance, because a person can walk a 


On Land and Sea. 


199 


plank very quickly, if there is no one to interfere* and pistols are pointed 
at his head. 

Kanaka Charley did not utter more than a dozen words during our pas- 
sage across the bay. When we asked him where San Jose was located, he 
would wave his hand, say “ I)ar,” and that was all. We had a spanking 
breeze, and passed over flats and shoals where the water was not more 
than three feet deep, and still we could not see the entrance to the San 
Jose creek, but just as we thought we should plump into a mud bank, we 
saw a narrow opening, and into it we run, and found ourselves surrounded 
by high tullies, and large flocks of wild ducks, which hardly took the trouble 
to fly or dive at our approach, so tame were they in that vast solitude. 

The wind died out, and leit us becalmed, and then the tide commenced 
ebbing, and we found that we could not stem it. Just as we were about to 
tie up to the bank of the stream, a ranchero, mounted on a splendid-look- 
ing horse, galloped up, looked over the rushes, and said that he would tow 
us to the landing if we desired. We did desire it, so he threw us the end 
of his reata, which we made fast to the mast, and then the horseman se- 
cured the other end to the iron pommel of his saddle, started his steed very 
gently, and up the stream we went, at the rate of two knots an hour, and in 
a short time the Mexican signified to us that we had reached our destina- 
tion. We found a nice clear space, where we could moor the sloop, dis- 
charge cargo, and look all over the country. The ranchero told us that he 
had been expecting us for the last forty-eight hours, and that the next day 
he would send down an ox team with some hides, and take away the goods 
we had on board. He stated that his name was Don Jesus, rather a funny 
cognomen, but there was a greaser at San Francisco who sported the full 
title of Don Jesus Christ, or Don Jesus Christo. The fathers and mothers 
who give such singular names to their children think that it is a mark of 
deep piety to thus honor their offspring, and there is no suggestion of pro- 
fanity in the act. 

As we had goods marked for the Don we supposed he was what lie 
represented himself to be, made him welcome, and invited him to dinnet. 
He lived at a ranche about a mile from the landing, the only house in sight, 
and requested us to call and see him, and said that he would supply us with 
all the beef and milk we needed while there. 

He was as good as his word, but the milk tasted so strong of wild onions 
that we could not use it, although the Mexicans did not seem to mind it in 
the least. The meat was good, however, and we had all that we wanted, 
but did not require much, as near the landing was a small, brackish lake, 


200 


On Land and Sea. 


and every night thousands of geese and ducks used to alight there to feed 
and rest, and the noise they made was something to be remembered for 
many a day. The first evening we were there Mr. Davidson loaded up an 
old ship musket, and offered to let me fire it off at the geese, but I said that 
I was not in the shooting line just then, and that he had better kill the 
game, and I would carry it to the boat He was as much frightened at the 
old gun as myself, but did not dare show the white feather after I declined 
to use it. Leaving Charley to get supper we crawled toward the pond, but 
there was no need of caution. The ducks and geese merely looked at us in 
simple surprise, quacked a little, honked at each other, and continued to 
feed. When we were within ten fathoms or less the second mate discharged 
the musket at a flock of geese, and killed sever, and wounded many more. 
I waded in, and secured the dead, but had to let the fluttering, injured ones 
escape. In ad that vast mob of fowl not one took to its wings, and sought 
to escape to safer quarters. 

There was no pleasure in shooting such tame game, and when we wanted 
to carry ducks and geese to the ;ship, being all ready to leave, we simply 
threw clubs at them, and knocked them over, and thus saved our powder 
and shot. I never saw so many wild fowl at one time before or since, and 
all we secured were just bursting with fat, in such good condition that the 
efforts to fly were a little fatiguing, we judged, by their refusing to take 
wing at our approach. A steady diet of goose flesh is not so desirable as 
one might think, and we soon tired of it, and returned to beefsteaks and 
gravy. 

I am told that San Jose is now a beautiful and prosperous place, and I 
suppose the creek is filled up, the adobe house gone, and the pond drained, 
and covered with houses, but I should like to see it as I saw it in April, 
1843, when the country was wild, and the Mission an important one for cat- 
tle, and the plain covered with them. 

The next day Don Jesus was on hand, and brought us two hundred hides, 
for which I gave him a receipt. We loaded his goods on the cart, for the 
Indians would not do the work, they were so lazy. We offered the Mexi- 
can Don two of our geese, but he laughed, and declined the tempting 
prizes, saying that his peons could load our sloop down in a single night, 
with game, if he wanted them to do so, but he did not relish geese. He 
had tired of them, and wished the ducks and the geese to a region that 
sounded very hot, although people do dispute on the subject, and say there 
is no such place. 

It was at San Jos£ that I came very near b^jng killed one morning, and 


On Land and Sea. 


201 


it happened through my love for horseback riding. Don Jesus had come 
down to visit us, and see to our wants, leaving his horse, a powerful, spirit- 
ed animal, standing near the Paul Jones, fastened to a peg driven in the 
ground. While I was admiring the steed the Mexican invited me to “ lomo 
de caballo,” or to take a ride, and I was only too glad to accept of the kind 
invitation. I cast off the reata, sprang into the saddle, gathered up the 
reins, but, unfortunately, made a mistake, and pulled rather hard on the 
powerful curb. The next instant the horse was on his hind legs, standing 
bolt upright, and then fell over with a crash on his. back. I saw the dan- 
ger in time, and slipped off, and one side, but I only avoided being crushed 
by an inch or two, and when I picked myself up the Mexican was rolling 
on the ground convulsed with laughter. I suppose that his merriment 
would have been just as keen had my arms and legs been broken. Luckily, 
I escaped all injury, and, as the horse stood quite still, after he had recov- 
ered his feet, looking a little dazed, or surprised, at what had taken place, I 
had no trouble in securing him, and once more mounted into the saddle, 
and galloped off ov&r the level country, reckless where I went as long as I 
was moving. 

Even to this late day I can vividiy remember that morning ride. It had 
rained a little the night before, and the air was filled with the scent of wild 
flowers, and the rich green grasses. The warm, bright sun, with not a 
cloud in the heavens, seemed to render the whole place a paradise for those 
who loved solitude, and retirement from the world. 

As I galloped along I saw half a dozen sneaking coyotes in the tall grass, 
and gave chase to them, but they suddenly disappeared in some hole in the 
ground. Near the ranche I met a black bear, at which the horse shied, and 
did not seem to care to come to close quarters, so I checked him, and 
watched the brute for a long time, and shouted to him just as he was in- 
clined to turn tail. Then he would halt, sniff at me with a look of con- 
tempt, and sit up on his haunches, and stretch out his arms, as though 
longing for an embrace, and daring me to come near him. At last the bear, 
with a final angry growl, waddled off, stopping every few minutes to watch 
if I was following him. The horse seemed to be much relieved to see the 
savage brute disappear, and to find that I was not disposed to follow. 

Then I saw two or three thousand wild geese feeding near the pond, or 
lake, and making much noise with their complaints and honks. I thought 
it would be fun to dash into their midst, and see them take to flight. But, 
to my surprise, they did not seem to care for me, or the horse, being accus- 
tomed to seeing the latter in immense runs, feeding on the plains. When I 


202 


On Land and Sea. 


was close upon them they parted to the right and left, and waddled out of 
the way, aided by their wings, and simply hissed at me for disturbing them 
in feeding, and would not move except for a rod or two. They could not 
have acted more stupid if they had been hatched in a barn-yard, in Rhode 
Island, and waiting for their daily supply of corn. 

For over an hour I was on that noble horse’s back, going at headlong 
speed at one moment, and then pulling up, and sitting still, enjoying the 
solitude, broken only by the quacking of ducks, and the gabbling of geese. 
At last, fearful that the Mexican would grow impatient at my long absence, 

I reluctantly headed for the landing, where I found ihe owner of the steed 
seated on the ground, smoking cigarettes, and trying to talk Spanish with 
Mr. Davidson, while the kanaka was sucking a short pipe, and picking a fat 
goose for dinner. 

To my surprise the Mexican merely looked up for a moment, asked why 
I had returned so soon, and to go and have a ride, while I was about it ; 
but I feared that I should abuse his kindness, so fastened the horse to the 
peg, then went on board the sloop, and got a cake of pilot bread, and en- 
deavored to coax the animal to eat it, but he was not accustomed to that 
kind of food, and refused, while the Mexican signified that he would take the 
bread, and be glad to carry it home to his wife and children. I added half 
a dozen cakes to the one I intended for the horse,' and the Don was more 
than satisfied. Every forenoon he would visit us with a different animal, 
and let me gallop off for miles, but I never found a horse that suited me so 
well as the first one that I mounted at San Josd, and which nearly cost me 
my life, owing to the unskillful manner in which I had pulled on the heavy 
curb. What splendid mustangs the country could boast of in those days, 
and they would lope all day long under a heavy load, and hot sun, without 
feed or water, and never seem to tire. I suppose the breed is nearly extinct 
by this time. 

We remained at San Josd six days, and very pleasant ones they were to 
me. Mr. Davidson permitted me to do as I pleased. Sometimes I was at 
the ranche, or watching the ducks and geese in their endless flights 
overhead, or splashing in the creek, close to the sloop. The hides came 
down very slowly, and I was always on hand to give receipts, so that there 
was nothing to do but dream away the day, the weather being just perfect, 
with only an occasional shower in the night time, and from those we were 
well protected by tarpaulins. Kanaka Charley did the cooking, and smoked 
his black, short-stemmed pipe all day long, while the second mate took sies- 
tas, and an occasional pull at a bottle of wine. 


On Land and Sea. 


203 


I had a long talk with him one day, and offered to teach him the art of 
reading and writing, but, while grateful, he declined the proposition, on the 
ground that he was too old to commence, yet he was comparatively a young 
man, not being more than forty years of age, if as much, and a good sailor, 
and would have been master of a ship years before if he had devoted some 
attention to schooling in his boyish days. I pointed out how he could edu- 
cate himself during the voyage, and that, unless he did, he would have to 
remain a sailor’s lackey all his days. But the job looked too formidable 
for him to undertake. He thought it more difficult to learn to read and 
write than it really is, and so I let the subject drop, but I always hoped he 
would think better of my advice, and accept it. Poor fellow, he never did, 
and, if he had adopted my suggestion, education would not have benefited him, 
as a violent death was his fate, and not far distant. 

He had a great respect for me because I could read and write, add up a 
column of figures, after a fashion, work out a day’s run in navigation, had a 
faint smattering of French and Spanish, and was not compelled to follow 
the sea for a living, having a snug little fortune coming to me when I was 
of age. He thought it was just heavenly to be a boy under those circum- 
stances. But I did not think much of such matters at that time, and made 
light of them. However, he persisted in his opinion, and was right, and I 
was wrong. Money is a good thing at all periods of life, and so is an edu- 
cation, even if you have to pass your days on the ocean, in a dark, damp 
forecastle, or in the narrow space of a cabin, hedged in by the dignity of 
being a captain, and no companion but books for a long and dreary pas- 
sage. 

At last all the hides arrived, and we could no longer delay our departure. 
We had five hundred cueros on board, and four huge bags of tallow, as 
much as we expected to obtain. One morning I rode up to the ranche, and 
politely said good-by to Senora Jesus, and a pretty little daughter, and then 
shook hands with the husband. We unmoored ship, and dropped down the 
creek with the current, and anchored in the bay until sundown, when the 
northeast wind went down, and a light breeze from the south sprang up. 
Spreading sail we headed for the ship, and arrived at the 'anchorage about 
twelve o’clock, but, instead of going alongside, we dropped a kedge, and 
went to sleep, and did not awake until after the decks were washed down 
on board of the Admittance, and Mr. Prentice hailed us, and ordered us to 
come alongside, and wondered if we intended to sleep forever, and avoid 
ship’s duty. 

When we turned out we saw that the Ceynne had changed her quarters 


to Saucelito, and that the ship Barnstable, and the barks Tasso and Don 
Quixote, had arrived during our absence. The latter was from the Sand- 
wich Islands, and was almost entirely manned by a crew of natives, who 
chattered and screamed when they saw Charley, like a flock of crows, 
while debating the expediency of making an attack on a newly planted corn- 
field. 

Lewey and I had a warm greeting. He wanted to kiss me, but I did n’t 
like those kind, and, after he had danced a jig of delight, the lad whispered 
that he had two bottles of milk in the steerage, that he saw the vessel from 
which it came, and I need have no fear ; but, after breakfast, the mate told 
me I was to get ready, and depart immediately for Murphy’s Ranche, and 
that, if I wanted him very much, Lewey might go with me, but there was 
to be no blanked nonsense during the voyage, and Mr. Prentice snapped 
his eyes as he made the remark, and forgot that he had previously told me 
it was necessary to keep a good boy on board, as a sort of reserve to fall 
back upon in case of misfortune to one of us. It was a happy day for me 
when permission was given us to go on the excursion, and what a nice time 
we did have before we returned to the ship. 


1 



PART EIGHTH. 

OFF FOR MURPHY’S RANGHE. — A JOKE WITH A SEA*-LION. — AN OLD 
SAILOR MOLLIFIED. — AN AMERICAN HUSBAND, AND MEXICAN WIFE. — 
A SICK CHILD. — LEWEY AS A DOCTOR. — A STRONG TEMPTATION. — 
A CARGO OF DEER FOR THE CEYNNE. — SAN LEANDY AND A PRETTY 
WIFE. — OLD JONES ATTEMPTS TO KILL A BULLOCK. — OFF FOR THE 
LEEWARD. — RANCHE REFUGIO, AND ITS LADIES. — SANTA BARBARA. 

THEN I told Lewey that he and I were to go in the pinnace to Mur- 
* * phy’s Ranche, he was as pleased as myself, and proposed that we 
should borrow one of the ship’s muskets, and have a grand hunt, as we had 
heard deer were very plentiful in that part of the country. But, when I 
represented to him that he might possibly blow his precious brains out 
with such a dangerous instrument, he readily yielded to my arguments to 
let the gun remain where it was, in the cabin, being the safest place for it. 
Old Jones was sent with us to navigate the boat, and Kanaka Charley went 
pilot, while I was supercargo, and Lewey the crew. There were some two 
hundred hides at Murphy’s awaiting our arrival, we had been told, and we 
had half a ton of goods for the place, which we were to deliver in good or- 
der to Mr. Murphy. 



2C 6 


On Land and Sea. 


After receiving full instructions from the mate, we loaded the boat, and 
were off before the usual northeast wind set in, so that we could cross the 
bay in safety. Mr. Prentice shouted after us to mind our eyes, or he would 
see to us when we returned, a threat that we did not pay much attention to, 
for who was to inform him of our misdeeds, even if we were disposed to 
commit any ? 

We sailed, drifted, and pulled across the bay, and, as we passed Alcatraz 
Island, and saw the enormous sea-lions lying on the rocks, sunning them- 
selves, Lewey proposed to Jones that he steer the boat close in so that we 
could have a good view of the rugged old fellows. Jones readily complied 
with the request, but, just as we were within two fathoms of the brutes, the 
French lad said he wanted to see the lions jump, so he lighted half a dozen 
crackers, and threw them on the king lion of them all, as far as size was 
concerned. They exploded just as the wind died away, and left our sails 
flapping, which was bad for us, as the monster was awakened from a deep 
nap, and the cracking of the fire-works made him think that some of the 
pets of his harem were in danger. With an awful roar he opened his huge 
mouth, gave one glance at us, and then tumbled into the water, and swam 
toward the^boat, and his expressive jaws showed that he meant all that he 
intended to convey by his glance of rage. 

“ Out with your oars,” roared Old Jones. “ What did you devilish boys 
want to meddle with that beast for ? Did n’t you know any better ? ” 

We got out our oars in a hurry, but Kanaka Charley seized the boat- 
hook, and gave the sea-lion a spiteful jab near the eye, and that seemed to 
settle his case, for he sank out of sight, and we saw him no more on the sur- 
face of the water. 

“ Dar are some naturalists,” said Lewey, as he rested on his oar, after we 
had got beyond danger, “ vot says dat de sea-lion is peaceable, and vill no*, 
attack de man unless forced to do so. Now, you see dat ve is all quiet like 
vid de brute, makes no attempts to vot you call annoy him, and yet you find 
dat he come arter us. I make a note of it for de book vot I shall publish 
some day, and prove dat I am right, and all de udders am in de wrong. 
Vot do you dink, Jones, on de subject?” turning to the old sailor for an 
answer. 

“ I think you ’ll get yer bloody head knocked off if yer tries that game on 
me agin,” the old salt growled. “ What the devil did Mr. Prentice mean by 
sending you two imps of Satan with me ? I should have thought he would 
have known better. If yer gets off any more of yer larking I ’ll ’bout 
ship, and return to the Admittance.” 


207 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Jones,” said Lewey, “ you don’t understand de great sciences of de 
nature.” 

“ And I don’t want to. Now yer keeps quiet,” growled the old salt, who 
was a little timid because he had charge of the boat, and felt the responsi- 
bility. “ If yer cuts up any more didos I ’ll clap yer in irons,” but where 
the irons were to come from was something he did not explain. 

We drifted along toward Angel Island, and, as Jones continued to growl 
at his narrow escape from certain death, as he supposed, I thought that the 
time had arrived for putting him in good humor. I overhauled my clothes 
bag, and found a bottle half fullof auguardiente, poured out a stiff horn in a 
tin pot, added a little water, as I had no ill feeling toward the old man, and 
did not desire to burn his throat and stomach, and handed him the dose. 

The scowl left his brow, anc\ his face became radiant with delight, a smile 
rippled over his weather-beaten features, and then, removing a monstrous 
mass of tobacco from his jaws, threw back his head, and the liquor gurgled 
down his throat with a pleasant sound. 

“Jones,” I said, as soon as the operation was completed, “you won’t tell 
Mr. Prentice of the joke on the sea-lion, will you, old fellow ? ” 

“How much rum have yer got left?” he asked in a cautious tone, not 
replying to my question. 

“ Enough for half a dozen more tots,” I replied, “ if a little water is add- 
ed.” 

“ And all for me ? ” was the important question, and an anxious look. 

“ All for you and Charley,” was my reply, and the old tar beamed on me, 
as he said, — 

“ I ’ve all along contended that the boys of the Admittance was the best 
on the coast, and I ’ll fight the liar what says they a’n’t. I was only fooling 
about telling the mate. We ’ll have nice times this trip, and I sha’n’t care 
if we don’t get back for a week.” 

A kind word, when backed by a glass of native rum, used to go a great 
way with a sailor of the old school, on the coast of California. 

1 also gave Kanaka Charley a tot of grog, and that was enough to win his 
friendship, but I kept a bright lookout for my clothes bag during the remain- 
der of that trip, for Tones eyed it more than once in a wistful manner, and I 
feared robbery by force and violence. 

We used our sails as we passed Angel Island, and then drifted under the 
stern of the Ceynne, all stripped for re-fitting, with men ashore at work on 
the rigging, and knocking the bark off some fire-wood before storing it on 
board, for fear that the ship might be infested with insects, as certain kinds 


208 


On Land and Sea. 


always breed and lay their eggs in the bark of trees, and a man-of-war is 
very particular not to have bugs on board. Cleanliness is one of the arti- 
cles of war, or should be, if it is not. 

By noon a breeze sprang up, and we headed the pinnace for the narrow 
stream that led us to Murphy's Ranche. We pulled the boat up the creek, 
and moored near an adobe house, that was occupied by an American called 
Williams, or some such name, who had married a Mexican woman, and had 
several children. He did not amount to much as a husband, or a man, 
and all the time we were at the ranche devoted himself to us, our comfort, 
and a bottle of auguardiente, which he had procured in some manner, much 
to the disgust of his wife. He told us that some half a dozen officers of 
the Ceynne were at Murphy’s, and engaged in a grand deer hunt, but that 
he did not care for the sport, or for such company. He preferred plain, 
good, common people, to all the officers in tfie world, which was flattering 
to our vanity, until we learned that the lieutenants of the sloop-of-war did 
not care to associate with' Mr. Williams, or to notice him any more than 
they would a common sailor. He could not play the grandee with gentle- 
men, so dropped them, and came to us, and very amusing and troublesome 
we found him. He had run away from a whale-ship, turned Catholic, and 
then found a woman willing to marry him, and settle down on a ranche, 
where he raised a little corn, a few cattle, and- the deuse generally, when he 
got drunk. He was not a good specimen of an American, for he was not 
ambitious to better his condition, and so was regarded with deep contempt 
by the foreign residents. How he found a woman willing to marry him was 
a problem difficult to solve. His wife probably thought him equal to one 
of her lazy countrymen, and so took him for better or worse, and bad enough 
he must have been. 

We were not aristocratic, and so admitted Mr. Williams to our ranks on 
a perfect equality. We shared with him our dinner of bread and coffee, 
with fried steaks, and in return he invited us to his house for supper, and, 
as we had nothing to prevent us from accepting the invitation, we went, 
and even to this day I regret that we did not decline, for, when we arrived 
at the adobe house, and the master ushered us in with a profusion of words 
of hospitality, I saw that we were not welcome, as the wife was holding a 
three-year-old sick child on her lap, and the poor woman looked as though 
she had been having a hard time of it, in connection with the infant, and a 
husband who was half drunk, and therefore generous. 

The babe was wailing as we entered, for our appearance had disturbed its 
rest, and frightened it. The wife looked up, and in that peculiar, calm, con- 


On Land and Sea. 


209 


vincing tone which wives assume when they find that their husbands have 
brought home unexpected guests, asked, — f 

“ Imp of the devil, why did you bring those vagabonds here? ” 

She spoke in Spanish, but she called us vagabonds nevertheless, and 
Lewey and I did not feel complimented ; at the same time, to save the man’s 
feelings, we pretended not to understand a word that she or her husband 
uttered. 

“ Caro chico mio,” the husband said in that tone of endearment which all 
men employ when afraid of their wives, and dread an explosion, and wish 
to make peace, so their guests will not feel uncomfortable, or that they are 
intruding. 

o 

But the term “my little dear” did not seem to meet with a happy re- 
sponse. The mother rose superior to the woman. 

“ Don’t dear me, you drunken son of Satan,” the lady said. “ Turn 
those gringo heretics out of the house, or I ’ll do it myself. Don’t you see 
that the child is very sick, and will be in the keeping of the saints unless it 
has quiet and rest ? ” 

“ Ah, beautiful one, how can I do so? They are countrymen of mine. 
They are my friends, and have come a long way to see me,” pleaded the 
husband, lying as husbands sometimes do, in all parts of the world, to get 
out of an unfortunate position, and to secure peace at home. 

“Shall I get up, and put them out of the house ? ” screamed the mother, 
and made a motion to lay aside her child. 

“The saints forbid,” pleaded the husband. “ Do you think that I would 
have brought these bueno hombres here, at this time, unless it was for the 
good of the muchacho ? One of these gentleman is a medico, a great phy- 
sician, even if he is young. I have requested him to look at the child. He 
can cure it by a touch of his hand. Be cautious what you say, or he will 
leave us without healing the little one. Be quiet, caro mio, or you will of- 
fend the doctor. He will cure the child, and not charge us a real. He has 
said it, and I believe him. Give your tongue a rest until the men leave the 
house, and then scold all day long if it pleases you.” 

He was a most magnificent liar, and I don’t believe that in San Rafael 
there was his equal, at that time. 

“ The child is muy maldito,” murmured the woman, meaning that the in- 
fant was what would be called by profane people “ confounded ill.” “ Let 
your medico examine him, and see what is the matter. But if he kills the 
child I ’ll kill him, and you also. Remember what I say.” 

The husband smiled, a sickly sort of smile, such as men put on who oan’t 


210 


On Land and Sea. 


have their own way with their wives, and do not dare to exert their authori- 
ty, and then addressed Lewey and me without a blush, for he was as incapa- 
ble of expressing modesty, as he was of keeping sober. 

“ My wife,” he said, “ is delighted to see you all. She welcomes you to 
our home. She hopes that you will remain here many days, but she is a 
little worried about our child. It is sick with some kind of fever, and she 
says that she knows one of you boys has some knowledge of medicine. 
Could n’t you,” appealing to Lewey, “ pretend to be a doctor, just to ease 
her mind ? You can prescribe some simple remedy, and it may do good. 
Who knows ? ” 

We might have believed the fellow if we had not understood all that had 
passed between him and his wife ; but I never knew Lewey to hesitate 
where prompt remedies were required. He could, in imagination, be doc- 
tor, soldier, captain, sailor, or pirate, all within the space of half an hour, if 
necessary, and he put on a wise look, as he said, — 

“ I will examine the child, and see what is the matter with it.” 

The husband turned to his wife, and, with a look of intense relief, an- 
nounced, — 

“ Caro, the medico will save the child. He has sworn it. The saints be 
praised. They have sent us real amigos, and we can do no less than give 
them supper in payment for their trouble.” 

Man-like, he carried his point by lying and strategy, for the woman really 
brightened up, and looked at us a little more favorably than when we en- 
tered the house. 

“ Lewey,” I whispered, “do you know anything of medicine ?” 

“ A little,” he answered. “ I studied de subject before I ran away from 
college, and vent to sea.” 

“ What college ? ” I asked. 

“ One near Havre de Grace, where my father and mother reside. I have 
n’t been a common sailor all my life, any more den you have. But I had 
radder be a pirate dan a doctor. Don’t fear for me. I shall not injure de 
child, and, perhaps, I can do it some good. Quien sabe ? ” as the greasers 
say. 

He went to the infant, and carefully removed some of its clothes, and felt 
of its pulse, and hot flesh, and then turned to the father. 

“Your child,” he said, with all the dignity of the medical profession, “has 
a touch of de fever and ague. I can cure ’em, but you must follow my di- 
rections, ’cos I have no drugs vid me. Make a fire, and heat some vater. 
Ve niust use nature’s remedies.” 


On Land and Sea . 


21 1 


“Water!” screamed the mother, when she heard the word explained; 
“use water for my child, and kill it ? No, never.” 

But the father coaxed and pleaded, and at last the mother consented that 
an experiment should be tried, as the only means of saving the child’s life, 
and, as it is quite probable that the infant had not been washed since it 
was born, there was, naturally, much anxiety on the subject among all 
parties. 

Lewey proceeded in a systematic manner. He put on the fire a pot of 
water, and, when it was lukewarm, dipped a small blanket in it, stripped the 
shirt from the infant, and then wrapped the wet flannel around its naked 
form, and laid it on the rude bed, and piled more clothes on, and, in half an 
hour, a profuse perspiration had broken out, and the child was sleeping 
soundly, and without distress, and its pulse was more regular. 

Then the Mexican woman, to show her gratitude, got supper for us, a 
meal composed of stewed meat and peppers, and a few tortillas. We beg- 
ged the wife not to exert herself on our account, and retired from the house 
to the boat as soon as possible. But the host followed us, and threatened 
to keep us awake all night, so we pretended to be sleepy, and went on 
board the pinnace, left the fellow seated on the bank of the creek, talking to 
himself, and there he remained until midnight, when he wandered home to 
his wife, and a lecture, no doubt. 

The next day we went to the house, and found the child running about, 
as well as ever, and the mother was profuse in her thanks, but she did not 
ask us to remain to dinner, as the provisions of the ranche were exhausted. 
That is, we suspected such was the case, for we saw no sign of cooking, 
and the husband had taken his rifle, and gone after deer. We gave the 
woman half a dozen cakes of pilot-bread, for which the children were 
grateful, and then returned to our quarters, and delivered cargo, and re- 
ceived the hides we were expecting from Murphy’s Ranche. With the 
hides came the carcasses of four deer, and a keg of butter, belonging to the 
officers of the Ceynne. Shortly afterward the latter gentlemen rode down 
to our boat, and asked us to stop on our way to the bay, and land the food 
and their hunting implements on the sloop-of-war, and we promised to do 
so. One of the midshipmen was an old schoolmate of mine, and we had a 
lively fusillade of conversation for a few minutes. He did not see me when 
I was on board of his ship, nor had I noticed him, as he was stationed in 
the foretop or on shore every time I visited her. The officers were to ride 
to Saucelito, and stop over night at Captain Richardson’s, a ranchero going 
with them to pilot the way, and take home the mustangs and saddles, the 


212 


On Land and Sea . 


latter more valuable than the animals. We promised to comply with their 
request, but felt sorry that the keg of butter, country made, was left in our 
charge, as the temptation to taste it was strong, but, by a powerful effort, 
overcome' it. 1 dare say the butter was even stronger than our wills, for we 
did look at it. It was of a sickly white, and there was no salt on the top, 
but there might have been in the middle. We did not dare to investigate, 
although Lewey swore that he could doctor the mass so that no one would 
know we had touched it. But no, I refused to be led astray, and, if any of 
the officers of the Ceynne, who were on that trip, are now alive, they will 
know that two boys, were sorely tempted on that occasion, and came out of 
the furnace like burnished gold. It does not seem to me possible that all 
of the sloop’s quarter-deck ornaments are dead, for some of them were mere 
boys in 1843, and they can’t be very old now, although it is barely possible 
that they may be on the retired list. It is quite probable that a few lived 
to serve on one side or the other during the unpleasantness between the 
North and South, and I will warrant that they were gallant men, as they 
could not help being after an apprenticeship on such a vessel as the 
Ceynne. 

The officers rode off, and Lewey and I went to the adobe house, and bid 
the Mexitan woman good-by. Her husband had not come back, and we 
were glad to be spared the pain of parting from him. She did not seem 
worried at his absence, and, in fact, smiled on us in such a manner that I 
hurried Lewey from the house, but not until she had intimated that her hus- 
band would appear when he wanted to, and not before. From her manner 
I judged that she would have shed but few tears had he been killed and 
eaten by the wild Indians, there being a tribe a few miles from the ranche. 

That evening we dropped down the stream with the tide, and took a gen- 
tle land breeze, that sent us toward Saucelito at the rate of three knots per 
hour, and, just as the Ceynne’s bells tolled the hour of twelve, we ranged 
alongside, and were hailed by the sentinel on the forecastle. 

“ Boat ahoy ! ” the marine cried. 

“ Ay, ay,” responded Jones, who knew that we would not be permitted 
alongside at that time of night, unless we belonged to the ship. 

“ Keep off,” yelled the sentinel, as we drifted nearer and nearer. “ If 
you come any closer I shall fire.” 

“ We are friends,” replied Jones, who knew that the marine had no idea 
of making good his threat, and, therefore, like the old man-of-war’s man that 
he was, desired to bother a soldier. “We have stores on board for the 
ward-room officers. Can’t we come alongside, and deliver them ? ” 


On Land and Sea. 


213 


“ No, stand off, and anchor for the night. You can come alongside in the 
morning,” was the reply. 

“ All right, mate,” Jones growled. “ You could n’t wake up the cap’en, 
and tell him we want a tot of grog, could you ? ” 

There was an indignant silence, and then we used the oars, and pulled 
to our anchorage, and went to sleep, and did not awaken until after sunrise, 
and we should not have moved then if the officer of the deck had not hailed 
and ordered us alongside to deliver our freight. 

We got out oars, and pulled to the larboard gangway. The men of the 
sloop removed the bodies of the deer, the rifles, and butter, while Captain 
Stripling looked over the hammock netting, and nodded, gave me a cheer- 
ful smile, and told a midshipman to see that we had breakfast with some of 
the messes. While we were eating it Old Jones suddenly discovered in one 
of the boatswain’s mates a shipmate, a sailor who had served with him in an 
English seventy-four, years before. There was great rejoicing on the part 
of both, and the petty officer of the Ceynne gave Jones a new blue flannel 
shirt, a pair of trousers, and then, greatest luxury of all, a bottle of rum 
was procured in some mysterious manner, and the two got between a couple 
of the guns, and boused up their jibs in regular ship-shape style. Do all 
that we could Old Jones would not budge until after dinner, and he had 
gone aft, and received his regular tot of grog in company with the rest of the 
men. 

By that time Jones was all ready to kiss his ancient shipmate, and to 
swear eternal friendship, although, to tell the truth, I don’t believe that they 
hardly ever spoke to each other on the English ship-of-the-line, unless in 
the same top, or in the same mess. But the fact that they had served on a 
vessel together, years before, was now enough to make them warm friends, 
to swear by each other, and they would have divided all their property had 
there been any occasion for such a sacrifice. 

We got Jones in the pinnace after an effort, but three different times he 
attempted to return to the vessel, and hug his old shipmate once more. As 
the painter was cast off, he was obliged to forego his resolution, and then he 
sat down in the stern-sheets of the boat, and shed tears* to think that he 
was obliged to part from the only man he ever loved, and, crying, went to 
sleep, while we worked the pinnace across the bay, with a stiff breeze and 
heavy sea, and ran alongside of the Admittance before Jones could be 
woke up. Then he was so dazed that Mr. Prentice sent him to his bunk, 
while the rest of us unloaded the hides, and I gave an account of the trip to 
the mate. He laughed at our doctoring the child, and intimated that he 


214 


\ 


On Land and Sea. 


should live long enough to see Lewey and I hanged for murder, if we kept 
on as we had begun. 

“Tomorrow,” Mr. Prentice said, “you, Lewey, Jones, and Kanaka Char- 
ley will start in the pinnace to San Leandy, where there is no rum, so you 
will have to come back sober. Mr. Teschemacher is to go with you, and 
will return next day. Now, mind, be on your good behaviour, or you won’t 
have another chance.” 

Just as though Lewey and I were not models of propriety. But I could 
not resist the temptation to tell the mate of the sea-lions, and the fire- 
crackers, and he grinned, and said that we would get our blanked heads 
broken some day, when we least expected it, if we continued our bold 
career. 

The next morning, when all hands were called, I was again despatched to 
Seriora Abarono’s ranche for milk, as General M. G. Vallejo was on board, 
and it was necessary to give him a feast, he owning half a million acres of 
land, and fifty thousand head of cattle, so it was reported. He lived near 
the Straits of Carquiness, close to Suisun Bay, Mr. Prentice told me, but, 
as I never visited his homestead, I am uncertain on that subject. At any 
rate he was a very gentlemanly Mexican, and was quite affable to us boys, 
often giving us a silver dollar for pulling him on board the ship and on 
shore. He spoke nice English, and always had a pleasant word for us, or a 
joke at our expense. Lewey found out that he had several pretty daugh- 
ters, or sisters, and wanted to run away, and go and have a peep at them, 
but I discouraged the idea, and he finally abandoned it. The general was 
a frequent visitor when we were in port, and every one liked him. I be- 
lieve that even Captain Peterson took a fancy to the gentleman. Had such 
a man been governor of California he would have made things lively for the 
Americans, as he afterward did, when war was declared. He was fifty years 
in advance of his countrymen in intelligence and enterprise, and yet I do 
not believe that he was appreciated by his Mexican associates. Perhaps it 
was because he saw their defects, and tried to remedy them, an impossibili- 
ty at that time, when there was no incentive to labor for great reforms, and 
revolutions were the fashion. 

When the pinnace was ready we were coolly informed that we were to 
slaughter a bullock, and bring the quarters on board, the next day, and to 
Old Jones was intrusted the task of bossing the job, because Mr. Prentice 
said he would n’t have “ those blasted boys fooling around an animal that 
was wild and dangerous,” and he made Lewey turn his pockets inside out, 
to see that he was not loaded down with fire-crackers. 


On Land and Sea. 


215 


Mr. Teschemacher took his place in the stern-sheets of the boat, and by 
nine o’clock we were ready, and shoved off for San Leandy, directly oppo- 
site Telegraph Hill. As there was no wind we got out our oars, and pulled 
past Goat Island, taking it very leisurely, for there was no need to hurry, as 
the sun was bright and warm. Once or twice Mr. Teschemacher spelled 
Lewey and myself at the oars, as though he wanted a little healthy exercise, 
a proceeding which was not objected to on our part. 

I wonder if the gentleman remembers that trip to San Leandy, near where 
the city of Oakland now stands ? Probably not, as he had to make many 
such journeys during his long residence on the coast of California. 

As we had to pull all the way the supercargo varied the trip by talking 
very pleasantly of the manners and customs of the people, and the peculiar 
method they had of getting trusted for goods, and paying when the saints 
were willing, or the rains were abundant. 

There was a narrow, short creek at San Leandy, nearly dry at low water, 
but, as the tide was only half ebb, we were enabled to push our way almost 
to the head of the stream, and there landed the few goods we had on board, 
while Mr. Teschemacher walked to the ranche of Don Vetro, close by, to 
make arrangements for the bullock, and the hundred hides he had agreed 
to deliver whenever we called for them. 

While the supercargo was gone Lewey and I ascended a small hill, to the 
right of the creek, and there found an abundance of strawberries. We 
shouted to Jones and Charley to come and. have a feast, but they did not 
seem to care for fruit, and refused. Jones afterward said he was afraid of 
rattlesnakes, but if there had been a bottle of auguardiente on top of that 
hill he would not have hesitated a moment. All the snakes in California 
would not have frightened him away. However, we saw nothing to startle 
us there, and then we visited a neck of land which was on the left of the 
creek, barren and rocky, and dug up a peck or more of a peculiar vegetable, 
which the sailors called soap-onions, used by them to wash flannels, and for 
that purpose they were far superior to the best of soda-soap, as they would 
make a beautiful lather, even in salt water. They were highly prized by the 
crews of ships, and the poorer class of the population used them when 
they had a family wash, which was not often. 

While we were digging the onions out of the ground, and congratulating 
ourselves on our success in finding so many on that narrow spit of land, we 
heard a peculiar w-h-r-r, but paid no attention to it, until it was repeated in a 
more rapid manner, and then I glanced around, and saw a monstrous snake, 
with raised head, and moving tail, not more than a fathom from us. I gave a 


216 


On Land a?id Sea. 


mighty jump, and called to Lewey to retreat as soon as possible. I knew 
from what I had heard that we had encountered our first rattlesnake, and 
that it was a large one. 

Lewey dropped knife and tubers, and was by my side in an instant. There 
we stood, and watched the snake, as it moved head and tail, and darted its 
tongue at us, and flashed its eyes in rage at being disturbed. We knew 
enough to give it a wide berth, yet did not desire to be cheated out of our 
hard labor, for close to the rattler was a large pile of onions, and, if we made 
a movement toward them, the snake would send out a sharp warning that it 
was dangerous to come too near him. In spite of our dread of the reptile 
we could not but admire it, as with flashing eyes and quivering tail it wait- 
ed for a demonstration on our part to begin an attack, that it did not seek 
or shun. 

“ Let us see if cje ugly divil vill stand de fire,” Lewey said, and from the 
lining of his sennet hat produced a dozen of his beloved fire-crackers, which 
had escaped the vigilance of Mr. Prentice, by being concealed in a place 
that no one would have thought of looking. 

He lighted a roll of tinder, such as the Mexicans used, and fired the 
string of a cracker, and pitched it under the head of the snake. There was 
an angry hiss, and the rattles were sounded in a loud and threatening man- 
ner, but just then there was an explosion, and a madder or more astonished 
reptile never existed. It jumped at least three feet in the air, and, when it 
came down, struck with its fangs at the nearest bit of shrub, and then at 
the smoking fragments of the cracker, and, finding that neither was to his 
liking, came toward us. 

By this time Lewey was so delighted with his experiment that he lighted 
another cracker, and launched it at the snake just as it started in our direc- 
tion. It exploded like the other, near the head, and checked its onward 
career, and it rolled over and over, and must have been burned by the fire, 
for I think it bit itself where it smarted most. 

We did not wait for anymore experiments, but picked up some small 
stones, and hurled them with skillful fury at the snake, and, before it could 
recover from its blind rage, one of the rocks hit it on the head, and knocked 
it over, and before it knew what had happened we had pelted the life out of 
it. The reptile measured six feet in length, and was as large in circumfer- 
ence as a stout man’s arm, below the elbow. 

We gathered up our onions and snake, and left that locality as quickly as 
possible, and when we showed our prize to Jones he remarked, — 

“ Jist like yer two boys. S’pose yer had been bit, and not a drop of rum 


On Land and Sea. 


217 


within four miles to save yer lives ? Never go near a rattlesnake unless yer 
have at least two bottles of auguardiente in yer shirt bosoms, or pockets. 
They is pizen without rum.” 

Kanaka Charley cut out the rattles, and we found that there were ten of 
them. We gave them to the captain, and I suppose that he has them now 
in his cabinet of curiosities. 

Finding that Mr. Teschemacher did not put in an appearance, and as it 
was near dinner-time, Lewey and I wandered up toward the ranche of Don 
Vetro. Not that we expected an invitation to dine, yet prepared to accept 
in case some one should ask us to partake of frijoles and tortillas. We 
were like the bummers that hang around City Hall about twelve o’clock, 
hoping that some member of a committee will ask them to lunch at the ex- 
pense of the tax-payers. 

We sauntered along toward the adobe house, and saw Senora Vetro, a 
very handsome woman, and one of the beauties of California before she was 
married, engaged in imparting nourishment to her young child, and without 
the slightest attempt at concealment. Our natural modesty caused us to 
blush, and turn our backs, and wait until the youngster had satisfied his ap- 
petite, but he was a regular little glutton, and it seemed as though he would 
never fill up. We feared from his actions that there would be no dinner 
left for us, for it did not seem possible that a baby could hold so much. 
We were a little hungry, and, perhaps, a trifle impatient, for we could smell 
the cooking of tortillas, and see the Indian cook turning them on the stone 
that answered for a skillet. 

Finding that we did not advance, and stood with our backs toward her, 
an impoliteness that was pardonable under the circumstances, the pretty 
little lady called out, — 

“ Come here, boys. No hay cuidado,” which meant that we need not fear 
her, and we did not, but, confound it, boys do not want to be reminded con- 
tinually of their infancy. 

We advanced sideways, and then the husband came out of the house, a 
good-looking young Mexican, who welcomed us in a hospitable manner, and 
said that our supercargo had gone on horseback to another ranche, so 
would not be back until the next day, and in the mean time his house, and 
everything in it, was at our disposal, a figure of speech which we heard 
with many grains of allowance, as we began to understand California ways 
and customs by that time, and knew that words were cheap, and meant 
nothing, especially when addressed to two not over well-clothed sailor 
boys. 


2i8 


On Land and Sea. 


However, he asked us to dinner, and his pretty little wife laid her sleeping 
child in a hammock, waited on us, made us really welcome, and chatted in 
her musical tones so lively that Lewey was quite charmed, and said that if 
the lady was single and childless, he would be willing to marry her ; but 
then Lewey was always thinking of getting married, and falling in love with 
black eyes and hair, and nice voices, just as all boys of his age are continu- 
ally doing. There was one consolation, he forgot the object of his adora- 
tion in less than a week, as a general thing, or as soon as he saw a new 
face, and a pretty smile. He could fall in love, and out, quicker than any 
boy that I ever knew. 

Senora Vetro belonged to a family of handsome women, her maiden name 
being Senorita Martinez. She would have caused a sensation at an opera 
or a ball, in Boston, had she been dressed and drilled in modern fashions. 
She appeared so unconscious of her great beauty was another surprising 
thing, but I don’t think that there was a looking-glass in the whole house 
that was as large as my hand. Just imagine a handsome lady living and 
existing without a large, French-plate mirror to pose before eight or ten 
times a day. It seems incredible, yet it is true. 

Her wardrobe was far from extensive. An under garment, a skirt, short 
enough to show the daintiest little feet and ankles, no stockings, but low 
slippers, held in place by the aid of cunning little toes, and without straps 
to keep them on. How she could walk, and glide about, and not be contin- 
ually pulling the slippers on, was a great mystery to me, and always has 
been. 

We told Don Vetro that we had killed a rattlesnake, and he expressed 
great pleasure at the information. He said that they sometimes bit and 
killed his cattle, and that the point of land where we had dug the soap- 
onions was a noted place for snakes, on account of the rocks. He offered 
to send one of his peons to dig us a bushel of vegetables, but we thought 
that we had enough to last until we returned to San Francisco, from our 
southern trip, although afterward we were very sorry that we did not accept 
his kind offer, as our shipmates raided on our stock, and exhausted it in a 
short time, while seamen in other vessels, who were soon to leave for home, 
wanted a supply to last them during the passage to Boston. With proper 
tools, and no rattlesnakes in sight, we could have dug a cart-load of the 
roots in an hour’s time, so thickly was the ground covered with them. 

In the afternoon the Mexican saddled two horses, and Lewey and I had 
a long gallop, returning in time for supper, but we did not enjoy it, as the 
infant was awake, and California children have terrible appetites, and the 


On Land and Sea. 


2 19 


fair lady did not seem to care for our presence while the heir was fed for the 
evening. 

All that night the ducks and geese kept us awake, for the creek was full 
of them. We could have killed a hundred with clubs, but we had tired of 
goose diet, and preferred fresh meat, when we could not get salt, as a 
steady regimen, and we knew that if we carried on board a lot of fowl we 
should have to eat them, as no one else would, and that was something we 
desired to avoid if possible. 

The next morning Don Vetro sent his Indians with a bullock. The 
peons cast it very handsomely, and then Jones proposed to instruct us in 
the method of killing and dressing a beef ; but he was not a success, for 
the first blow that he struck at the animal’s head, with an axe, missed, and 
nearly brained Kanaka Charley. The native of the Sandwich Islands then 
went on board the boat, and stayed there until the killing was completed. 
He said that he was only a poor kanaka, at twelve dollars a month pay, but 
that the salary was not enough to tempt him to run any unnecessary risks, 
while Lewey and I skulked to the rear of the vaquero, and waited for the 
events which we feared would take place. 

Jones came up to the scratch a second time, with a look of determination 
on his face, and a heavy axe in his hand. He aimed a blow at the brute’s 
head, and, just at that moment, out of sport, I verily believe, one of the In- 
dians allowed his horse to ease a little on the reata, and up on his feet 
came the bullock with a rush and a roar, and his horns caught on the jump- 
er which Jones wore, and the latter went about five feet in the air, and came 
down all in a heap, swearing to such an extent that even the holy fathers of 
California would not have given him absolution, except at a great price, and 
deep penance. 

“ Blast the bloody beast,” said Jones, as he crawled off. “ I don’t bother 
with him any more. If I do I shall lose the number of my mess. What in 
thunder did the mate tell me to kill and dress a bullock for ? I can handle 
a marline-spike as well as the next man, but an axe bothers me every time. 
I a’n’t no butcher, but a sailor.” 

“ Show us how to 'kill and dress a bullock, Jones,” I cried, as I laid down 
on the grass, and laughed, while Lewey forgot all of his English he was so 
delighted, and yelled and raved in French and Spanish, with now and then 
an English word thrown in to finish out his strong sentences in rounding 
periods. 

“ Yer boys think yer are smart, don’t yer ? ” growled the old salt. “ If I 
lay my hands on yer necks, yer won’t find anything to laugh at, I can tell 


220 


On Land and Sea. 


yer. Stop yer grinning, yer fools, or somebody will get murdered beside the 
bullock.” 

• One of the rancheros came to our relief in an expeditious manner. He 
touched his horse, and the bullock was again tumbled to the ground, as 
though struck by lightning, and then, dismounting, and leaving his mustang 
with feet braced, and reata taut, approached, and plunged a long, sharp 
knife in the throat of the poor beast. There was a convulsive movement, a 
rush of blood, and the bullock sighed out its last breath, and was dead. 

The Indian wiped the weapon on the hair of the dead beast, grinned at 
Jones, unfastened the reatas, coiled them on the huge pommels of the sad- 
dles, and, with an “ Adios, marineros.” vaulted into his seat, and the two 
galloped off, leaving us to skin the animal at our leisure. 

This we were enabled to do without much difficulty, for by this time Char- 
ley had recovered from his fears, and* Jones had got back some of his usual 
good temper. But we did not mention to the old salt that he had promised 
certain things, and neglected to keep his word. He had charge of the boat, 
and we were respectful to our superior officer, when he was near enough to 
lay hands on us. 

In the course of the forenoon some hides arrived, and we stowed them in' 
the pinnace, and the fresh beef on top, and when Mr. Teschemacher ap- 
peared we were all ready to shove off, and cross the bay, with a fine breeze, 
which took us alongside the Admittance before sundown. 

The next day we went after wood in the launch, and came near being 
ship-wrecked, as we touched on some rocks, near the point opposite Goat 
Island. The boat leaked badly, but we got alongside, and dischared cargo, 
and then beached the craft, and the carpenter had to spend a day repairing 
her. Just as we hauled her off the flats, the schooner Julian, a rakish-look- 
ing craft, and a trader on the coast, arrived. She was an American vessel, 
and had a crew of kanakas. I never saw her receive much cargo, but she 
landed considerable, and where she got it was a mystery. I always sup- 
posed that she was engaged in mild smuggling, and paid but few duties. 
The captain’s greatest desire seemed to be to buy rare furs, and get many 
good, wholesome silver dollars. The vessel’s movements were as mysteri- 
ous as her cargo, and you never knew when or where she would turn up on 
the coast. 

After filling all of our water casks, for the dry season had now set in, 
and stored the fore-peak full of wood, enough to last us six months, we got 
under way the 5th of June, at the unnatural hour of five in the morning, for 
a trip to the leeward, by the way of Santa Cruz and Monterey. The tide 


On La?id and -Sea. 


221 


served our purpose, for it was strong ebb. We had an awful time break- 
ing out our anchors from their muddy bed, and all our strength was required 
to gain an inch of chain. But at last we broke ground, and drifted out of 
the bay, with a Captain Hinckley and his wife on board as passengers to 
Monterey. The wind was light all day, and we fanned past the Seal Rocks, 
where we saw forty or fifty sea-lions asleep in the hot sun, and ihey hardly 
raised their heads when we braced the yards to catch each flaw, to prevent 
our dropping anchor again. 

About four o’clock we got a fresh breeze from the northeast, and, with 
the wind free, skimmed along the coast, and at daylight were off Santa 
Cruz, where we dropped anchor in four fathoms of svater, and the same 
forenoon the Don Quixote arrived for skins and tallow like ourselves. 

We found four or five hundred hides ready for us, but, worse than all, 
one hundred thousand feet of red-wood boards, which we were informed we 
were required to push through the heavy surf, ship, and land on the high 
bluffs at San Pedro. We could endure the discomforts of carrying off 
hides, but, when it came to lumber, we were mad, and Lewey proposed that 
we should desert, go to San Francisco, seize the schooner Julian, and be- 
come real pirates, in downright earnest. When the French lad had a 
grievance he wanted to become a bloody buccaneer of the Spanish Main. 
He did n’t know where the Main was located, but thought it sounded well, 
and he had read something on the subject in a book that one of the crew 
owned. He said we were bound to be hanged at some time, and we might 
as well end our days in glory as to die rafting off confounded lumber 
through a heavy surf. The temptation to follow the boy’s advice was great, 
but there were so many impediments in the way, we had to give it up, so 
our agent escaped a violent death, for, if we had become pirates, Mr. Mel- 
ius would have suffered more than he made us endure in the cold surf of 
Santa Cruz. 

We landed on the beach at an early hour, and lugged the boards from the 
top of a sand-hill to the shore, then fastened a pair of top-gallant-studding- 
sail halyards to half a dozen planks, while the men on the pinnace pulled 
them through the rollers. The boat was anchored at some distance from* 
the beach, and the people in her made a raft of the boards. All the fore- 
noon we were in the water, and when we knocked off we were wet through 
and through, and the most disgusted men on the coast. If curses could 
have consigned Mr. Melius, to whom we were indebted for all of this hard 
work, to an endless punishment, he would now be suffering in a warm cli- 
mate, for more outrageous labor was never imposed upon men. None of 


222 


On Land and Sea. 


the other ships on the coast were asked to do such work, and we were se- 
lected because it was the first voyage of Captain Peterson, as master. Had 
it been his second trip the supercargo would not have dared impose such 
a task upon him and his men, for he would have refused it. 

We got the raft and the hides on board in the course of the day, and 
stowed the lumber between decks, and the next afternoon up anchor, and 
stood over toward Monterey, nearly in company with the Don Quixote. 
The wind was fresh from the northeast, and was the best point of sailing 
for the bark, being free, with the yards well checked in, but we piled on a 
foretop-mast studding-sail, and slid along at the rate of ten knots per hour. 

On this trip I took the wheel for a short time, to relieve Chips, so that he 
could get his supper, and I am happy to state that I steered so well the 
captain uttered an emphatic commendation, for I did not vary half a point 
of the compass either way. But then, the Admittance was just like a yacht 
in minding her helm, if any one could steer her. 

We dropped anchor just ten minutes after the Don Quixote had rounded 
to, but she had nearly half an hour’s start of us, and, as a stern chase is a 
long one, we did very well. The schooner California, Captain Cooper, the 
Mexican admiral, was in port, and would have saluted us on our arrival if 
she had owned powder or guns. As the gallant captain did not possess 
either he contented himself with hoisting the Mexican flag, and then 
hauling it down as fast as possible, for fear it would blow to pieces, and he 
did not know when he could get another from the national government, as 
the latter wanted an incoming stream of silver dollars, and no outlet for use- 
less expenditures in its provinces. 

Monterey that evening looked as pleasanbas ever. The dogs barked all 
night, as usual, the coyotes howled defiance, as was customary, from the 
hill-tops, and once in a while we could hear the fierce roar of a bear in the 
woods, just back of the presidio, probably grumbling over the remains of a 
dead bullock. 

Usually, when a bear made its appearance near the fort, the soldiers 
sought the shelter of their bomb-proofs, or would have done so if they had 
any, but, as they did not, they went into the barrack-room, performing 
no sentry duty until daylight. I did not blame them, for it is not pleasant 
to be caught asleep, by a ferocious bear, when guarding an outpost in a 
ravine. 

We renewed our acquaintance with the young ladies of Monterey, and 
they smiled on us as cordially as ever; but trading was not very brisk, and 
we commenced preparations for our leeward trip. The night before we 


On Land and Sea. 


223 


weighed anchor the dense forest, on the Point of Pines, was set on fire by 
some drunken Indians, and, as the flames raged fierc.ely, the heavens were 
lighted up for miles in extent. We could almost see well enough to read 
fine print on the deck of the Admittance. It was a sorrowful yet grand 
sight to watch the trees, dry and resinous, flash up, and tumble over, as the 
flames leaped from one to the other, sending out clouds of black smoke, 
which formed fantastic shapes, and then drifted away over the land toward 
the mountains, and were lost to sight. 

The inhabitants of the town, after they had assured themselves that there 
was no revolution, said to each other, — 

“ If God is willing he can stop the conflagration. The holy fathers will 
look after our interests, and see that no harm comes to us. Let us return 
to our beds, and hope that the flames will not work toward our famous city. 
The alcalda will give us timely warning if there is any necessity for it. The 
saints save Mexico, and all its people. Benedicta ! Vamous !” and they 
returned to their hard beds, and left the dogs to guard the town, and howl 
worse than ever, while a thousand coyotes, on the mountains and hills, 
thought the fire was got up as a substantial tribute to their goodness and 
worth, and, ponsequently, snapped and barked until daylight. 

All hands were called about two o’clock in the morning, for it was thought 
we should have to up anchor, and get out of port as fast as possible. The 
wind threatened to change, and blow the sparks and flames toward us. If 
it had there would have been some danger to our sails and rigging, for we 
were not more than two cable’s-lengths from the conflagration, and could' 
feel its intense heat as we mustered on deck, and watched the roaring 
flames, and saw them run swiftly along in the rear of the fort, and then fol- 
lowed up the ravine on their way toward the mountains. 

But the wind held steady, and the fire receded, working its way into the 
dark forest*, until it seemed to have burned itself out. When all danger was 
apparently passed the men were ordered below, but told to stand by for ( a 
sudden call. 

While we were in Monterey this trip, the colored steward, a smart fellow, 
and a very good cook, paid much attention to a half-breed Mexican woman, 
who had come on board to trade several times, purchasing for cash two or 
three spools of cotton, and a comb, one of the coarse variety, not a fine ar- 
ticle, as some people might think necessary. The steward was captivated 
at the first interview. He laid before her all the best evidences of his culi- 
nary art, and, as the lady was not cabin company, she had a place provided 
for her in the galley, where the doctor talked to her about the delights of 


224 


On Land and Sea. 


religion, and asked her if she would not like to be immersed some time, 
when she had faith. He also offered to lend her some hymn books to read 
and study over, and quoted several passages from the Bible, to prove that 
she was in a bad way, in a religious point of view, and needed new light if 
her soul was to be saved. 

As she could not understand a word that he said, nor he comprehend 
what she was driving at, when she asked for another cup of coffee, or more 
bread, instead of Christian consolation, there was not much progress in 
the conversion line, but the steward understood the glances of her eyes, 
even if he did not the Spanish tongue like the cook, for love does not need 
words to make it expressive. All nations can comprehend a pressure of 
the hand, or the meaning of a kiss, so the colored man who presided over 
the welfare of the captain’s table pleaded for love by feeding the object of 
his admiration to the best that the ship contained, having a vague idea that 
to reach a woman’s heart it was necessary to please her palate. 

We are all aware that such a theory is entirely wrong, in the present cen- 
tury, but the steward was not an educated person, and did not know the 
ways of the world as he would had he lived until the present time. 

How the colored man and Mexican woman managed to understand each 
other will never be known. But they made some kind of a bargain to meet 
on the land, and be happy ever after, entirely away from galleys, captains, 
and ship’s duty. One morning, when all hands were called, the steward 
was missing. He had taken four of the red-wood boards, and the deck tub, 
made a raft, and paddled ashore, where he was joined by the woman, it was 
supposed, and they were gone no one knew where, or at what hour he left 
the ship. Every person who had an anchor watch swore that the steward 
had not started while he was on deck, although it was plain he must have 
had help from some one. 

The old man went on shore, and consulted Cook, the pulperia keeper, 
and offered a reward of twenty dollars for the return of the love-sick swain. 
Old Cook smiled, drank a glass of his own grog, to show that he still had 
confidence in it, and would not kill him instantly, as many people wished, 
mounted a horse, and went off toward the mountains. 

In the afternoon he returned, and took another glass of auguardiente, 
winked one eye, had an interview with the old man, and the latter smiled, 
went around town, wearing his famous beaver hat, as he was on visits 
of ceremony, and bid all his acquaintances good-by, announcing his 
intention of sailing the next day for Santa Barbara. 

In the morning there was a commotion on the beach, and Old Cook was 


On Land and Sea. 


225 


seen, and heard to hail the ship, and ask that a boat be sent on shore. We 
jumped into the pinnace, and pulled to the landing place, and there saw 
the poor steward, bound hand and foot, and in charge of two rancheros, 
who had captured him the night before. It was always supposed that the 
woman gave him away, and shared in the reward. At any rate she never 
came on board again, and sent no word to her admirer. 

The steward was in a miserable plight, and received hard usage. He 
had made a gallant fight of it, as one of his captors showed a black eye, 
and the other a sharp cut across the cheek, with a knife, or a stick. But 
what could the poor fellow do against two skilled horsemen, armed with 
long reatas, which they could throw with the precision of a rifle ball ? 

We cut the lashings that bound the man, for the steward was a great 
favorite with every one on board, even the captain always having a kind 
word of praise when he produced some wonderful effort of his genius, like 
a potato salad, or a delicious dish of macaroni, with grated cheese. We 
pitied the poor fellow, and tried to encourage him, but he was all broken 
up, and when he thought that the woman he loved had sold him to Cook, 
and his captors, he flattened out, and cried like a child. 

“ Vot does you expect from a female ? ” asked Lewey, the skeptic, who 
had no faith in a woman’s affections, having been crossed in love, he confi- 
dentially informed me, more than a hundred times. “ Dey is vid you today, 
and tomorrow vare is dey ? ” 

As the steward could not answer the conundrum he made no reply, but 
gave vent to a fresh burst of tears, and, still sobbing, entered the boat, and 
we pulled him on board. 

The old man was on the quarter-deck, and he received the steward with a 
grim smile, and the remark, — 

“Veil, you has made a fool of yourself runnin’ arter mean, scum vimmin. 
Now you goes to vork, and forgets her, like udder peoples does,” and that 
was all he said. The blow was so severe that it shattered some portion of 
the colored man’s brain, but he went to work, and tried to do his duty, yet, 
when we saw him standing in the waist one day, and making up faces at the 
quiet town of Monterey, and at every woman who came on board, we knew 
the iron had entered his soul, and that he still mourned for his dark-skinned 
love, and that his mind was impaired. We hoped that he would pull 
through, as all men generally do, but had to give him up when, one day, he 
plumped down at the feet of Don Pio Pico’s daughter, or relative, the same 
lady who had come out one Sunday, in company with the captain, to see the 
bears, and asked permission to cook for her private eating a delicious 


22 6 


On Land and Sea. 


omelet, and the frightened girl fled to the captain for protection, as she did 
not understand him, or his actions, and his Spanish was faulty. 

After that the old man made him take a dose of his favorite remedy, a quart 
of salts, thinking it would have a soothing effect on the fellow’s active brain 
but, strange to say, salts could not cure love, and the steward continued to 
make up faces, and to laugh in a cold and blood-curdling manner, and then 
there was but one resource left, and that was to shave his head, and draw 
the amorous affection from the heart by the aid of a mustard plaster. The 
steward was secured, Tom was told to go ahead, and shave off the wool, and 
it was done, but the steward resisted firmly, and cried as he saw the kinky 
locks fall to the deck, from whence they were swept up, and pitched over- 
board. 

A long epic might be written on the subject, but, as no one would read 
it, the poets of the country had better let it alone, and prose shall celebrate 
the event. The mustard plaster did not produce the effect that was in- 
tended. It neither soothed nor allayed his impassioned nature, but, at any 
rate, the steward, after he left Monterey, gradually recovered, and once 
more resumed his cheerfulness, yet became a confirmed woman-hater, and 
never afterward took pride in setting before the softer sex well-made dish- 
es. In fact, one day, at a moment when it seemed as though his brain was 
again unhinged, he said confidentially, — 

“ I tells you what it is, Thom, I ’d rudder cook for fifty men than one wo- 
man. They never knows what suits ’em, and is grumblin’ all de time ; and 
den dey swallows all de best dings, and nebber say dat dey is good, but al- 
ways wants more, when dey knows dar is no more. I has tried ’em, and I 
would n’t care if I nebber seed another woman on de face of de earth. Dey 
is all alike. Dey eats and dey eats, dey drinks and dey drinks, and den, 
when you fills ’em up wid good dings, dey turns round, and sells you out, jist 
as likely as not.” 

Thus does gentle woman sometimes make enemies, when she might se- 
cure friends, simply from her love of favorite dishes, and neglecting to 
thank the donor, like a delicate young lady that accompanies you to the 
theatre, and expects a collation afterward, and feels agrieved if she does not 
get it, and tells her intimate friends that you have a streak of meanness in 
your nature, which she can never forgive or forget. 

We got under way at the same time the Mexican man-of-war schooner 
California did. Captain Cooper was bound to Santa Barbara to look after 
some illegal otter hunters, who were cruising up and down the coast in 
small, flat-bottomed boats, and it was necessary that a show of force should 


On Land and Sea. 


227 


be made to frighten them off their usual haunts. What the California, 
with her crew of four kanakas, could do toward men that were unerring 
shots with rifles, was not stated, and the admiral never made a formal re- 
port on the subject. He was ordered to go, so he took on board fifty- 
pounds of cheque, a bushel of frijoles, and made sail, and, as he passed un- 
der our stern, said, — 

“ I will bet a pound of tobacco I am at Santa Barbara before you, in spite 
of your fast ship.” 

“ All right,” replied Captain Peterson, with a laugh, at the audacity of the 
proposition, “ I ’ll take the bet,” and, with a wave of their hands, the cap- 
tains parted, and the California drifted toward the Point of Pines, and, 
when we stood out of the harbor, her boat was in the water, towing her 
away from the sunken rocks, so that she could get an offing before night set 
in. However, as soon as the danger was passed, the crew complained of 
being fatigued, and the admiral anchored, and let them have a refreshing 
sleep, so that they could be all ready for a good day’s work on the morrow. 
Then the commander went on shore, and passed the night with his wife, an 
act of courtesy that all loving spouses will appreciate, But Captain Coop- 
er always was a gallant man, and a great admirer of the fair sex, and never 
told his wife to “ shut up her head,” if she asked him in Spanish to trans- 
late his irritable English, when he was in a psssion, because his pay was 
not forthcoming when over due, something that happened quite often. 

We had light winds all the way down the coast. We passed the high 
lands of St. Luis Obispo, but continued on around Point Conception, 
where we found the weather quite pleasant, instead of being stormy, and 
blowing a gale, as is usual, and on the 17th of June dropped anchor in nine 
fathoms of water, opposite P.anche Refugio, an open roadstead, and about 
twenty miles to the northerd of Santa Barbara. We were just opposite a 
ravine, and in the distance we could see, through the green trees, the walls 
of an adobe house, and on this spot resided two of the handsomest young 
ladies of California, sisters, and not more than sixteen and eighteen years 
of age. I have good cause to remember those ladies, for they were as affa- 
ble and agreeable to Lewey and myself as though we had. been gentlemen 
of high degree, and worth fifty thousand head of cattle. They were not en- 
tirely pure-blooded Spanish doncellitas, but were none the less beautiful, 
with their transparent skins, glorious dark eyes, and long, luxuriant black 
hair. 

The first Sunday we were there the captain ordered us boys to man his 
quarter-boat, and the mate intimated that we had better dress in our best 


228 


On Land and Sea . 


costumes, and wear shoes and stockings, as we were to remain on shore till 
sundown, and we might get a glimpse of the lady residents. We followed 
his advice, but put our clean white stockings and shoes in the bosoms of our 
shirts, so that we could keep them dry while we were getting through the 
surf, which run very heavy on the beach. 

At ten o’clock we pulled on shore, the captain looking radiant and beau- 
tiful in his blue short jacket, white trousers, and beaver hat, the admiration 
of all the ladies on the coast who were fortunate enough to see it. When- 
ever the oldjnan put on that hat Lewey had a strangling paroxysm, and it 
seemed as though he would cough the eyes out of his head. When I re- 
monstrated with him he would very readily answer in French and bad Eng- 
lish, — 

“Good Heaven, how skall I help it? If you had a particle of humor in 
your composition you vould strangle as bad as I, for dar is nothin’ in dis 
vorld, or the vorld to come, dat looks so comical as dat hat.” 

But I knew better than to laugh : I wanted a day on shore, and a chance 
to see the beautiful young ladies I had learned so much about, and if 1 
smiled how did I know but that my liberty would be curtailed ? 

We passed through the surf without a ducking, and then hauled the boat 
high up on the beach, and, when we had concluded our labors, the captain 
said, — 

“ I am going up to de ranche, and if you dink dat you can behaves yer- 
selves like young gentlemen you can go also. If you don’t dink so you 
stays here.” 

There was a unanimous response that we always tried to reflect honor on 
the ship, and we should regret to our dying day if we did anything that 
would disgrace our good names, or the vessel to which we had the happiness 
to belong. 

“ You is too confounded villin’,” the old man said, with a suspicious look 
in his eyes. “ You is altogether too humble to be sincere. Have you any 
of dem blasted fire-crackers in your pockets ? ” 

“ Oh, no, sir,” was the unanimous response, and the innocent look of 
childhood. 

“ And you von’t break up de cock-fights, if dey has any ? ” was asked, 
very sternly. 

“ No, indeed, sir,” from Lewey. “ Ve should like to see ’em. It is very 
noble sport — to de Mexicans.” 

“ Veil, you mark my vords, if dar is any foolin’ today you goes no more 
On shore of a Sunday,” the captain said. 


On Land and Sea. 


229 


“ Not even to pull the quarter boat to the beach ? ” I asked, for I had 
heard the same threats before, and was not appalled at them. 

“ Never you mind,” was the answer. “ You behaves yerselves,” and the 
old man walked toward the first house, the one that we could see at the up- 
per end of the ravine, while we rolled down the legs of our trousers, wiped 
the sand from our feet, and put on our stockings and shoes, but neither felt 
nice, we had been so long accustomed to going barefooted. 

We strolled leisurely toward the house, and, as we approached through 
groves of fruit-trees, and grape-vines, heard the twanging of a guitar, and a 
sweet, musical voice, singing a popular Mexican ballad. I can only remem- 
ber two lines, but it was all about love, as a handsome girl’s songs should 
be, and the words ran thus : — 

“No me acuerdo, no me acuerdo, 

Dulce amante, dulce amante.” 

Or, to translate into English, although it sounds tame and spiritless as 
compared to the musical tongue of Spain : — 

“ I do not remember, I do not remember, 

Sweet lover, sweet lover.” 


We waited until the song was concluded, and then looked in the open 
door, and saw the captain smoking a cigar, seated on a chair formed of 
bullocks’ hide, and deer horns, making efforts to talk Spanish, and be 
agreeable to a gentleman whom I supposed to be the father of the two pret- 
ty sisters, while in a corner was a wandering Figaro, twanging a guitar, play- 
ing waltzes, or sacred music, just as the fancy possessed him, for one was 
as good as the other on Sundays, when the people attended mass in the 
morning, and cock and bull fights in the afternoon, with horse-racing thrown 
in to occupy the leisure hours, if there should be any. 

The young ladies nodded and smiled at us boys, and one of them called 
an Indian girl, and told her to go and pick some fruit, and bring it to the 
house. Then Figaro struck up a lively waltz, and the ladies revolved to the 
music, but they did not take one another as partners, or put their arms 
around each other’s waists, as I should like to have done. 

“ Thom,” said the captain, in a burst of good humor, that almost made 
my head swim, for men don’t like to see another person enjoying himself 


230 


On Laiid and Sea. 


when there is a handsome partner, and waltzing, “ you ask von of de young 
girls to dance, and perhaps she vill.” 

“ I am afraid that she will refuse, sir,” I answered, but I longed for a 
chance to waltz with one of the ladies. 

“ Veil, you can ask her, can’t you?” was the response, and from his 
words I took courage, and, hat in hand, proffered my request. 

The young lady looked a little surprised to think that a common sailor 
boy could waltz, but she nodded consent, and, with a smile, and a blush, 
allowed me to put an arm around a waist that was exquisite in its propor- 
tions, and had never been confined by corset or tight dresses. 

I was timid, and did not encircle her form as a bold, bad man would have 
done, and, when she saw that such was the case, she simply said, — 

“ Mas fuerte, muchacho,” just as the girl in Monterey had requested me 
to do, and as the young ladies in civilized countries desire. That is, she 
wanted me to hold her so that she would not feel as though she were slip- 
ping out of my arms at every revolution of our feet. 

“ Veil, of all de cheek dat I ebber seed,” Lewey muttered, disgusted to 
think that he had been left out in the cold, but the other sister, the elder 
one, held out her hand, and nodded to the French boy, and he sprang 
toward her like a hungry coyote on a lamb. 

Lewey was never noted for my retiring modesty, as far as the opposite 
sex was concerned. He had much of the £lan of the French soldier, and 
did not think that diffidence paid. 

Ah, I shall never forget that waltz, the first that I had enjoyed with areal 
lady for many months. Although my partner was not older than myself, 
yet she was more of a woman than I was a -man, and I could see she was 
condescending, in her own estimation, in dancing with me, and that a per- 
son twice my age could have taken her from me by merely snapping his fin- 
gers, a thought that is gall and wormwood to a boy of ambitious ideas. 

The waltz was a dreamy one, and three old ladies who sat in a corner 
of the house, looking on, clapped their hands at stated periods, as encour- 
agement, and marks of approval of the dance. My partner’s form was like 
a willow, stately, but pliant, and every movement was graceful, from the 
pose of her head, to the movement of her little, twinkling, naked feet, with 
the toes thrust into slippers without sides or heels. 

Round we went until I felt my head all in a Avhirl, for there was no re- 
versing in those primitive days. The waltz was like a tread-mill, you had 
to swing around until you were tired, or dizzy, and then stop, or else go on, 
and tumble to the floor. 


On Land and Sea. 


231 


When we did pause I had the proud consciousness of knowing that I had 
pleased my partner, and myself, at the same time. She told her sister that 
she had had a lovely dance, and the sister responded in the same gushing 
manner, but there was no more waltzing for us in the house, on that day. 
The ladies had shown their good nature and politeness to us, and did not 
think it worth while to continue to be agreeable, especially as there was 
not even the chance for a coquettish glance, or a fan flirtation, so dear to the 
heart of a Mexican belle. 

The fruit was brought in, and we were all invited to partake. I did n’t 
think the apples and pears would compare with those of New England, but 
the grapes were nice, and there was an abundant supply. As soon as the 
collation was finished, we thought we were not wanted at the ranche any lon- 
ger, for we were not men of importance, so Lewey and I strolled away to 
another house, and again heard the thumbing of a guitar, and, entering a 
plain adobe residence, found half a dozen girls, who were enjoying them- 
selves laughing and dancing. They were several grades lower in social po- 
sition than the senoritas we had just left, but, to our eyes, they were nearly 
as beautiful, although their skins were not quite as fair, and their long, 
black hair a trifle coarser, but their eyes were as brilliant and flashing, and 
more inviting and free, for they could coax and repel at a glance, and just 
the kind of females to attract a boy’s fancy, and flatter their vanity by being 
noticed. 

The girls welcomed us with clapping of hands, and, when they learned 
that we could waltz, there was a generous competition to see who should 
have us as partners. There were two sisters, Engracia and Anita, the lat- 
ter only fourteen years of age, and the former a trifle over sixteen. I se- 
cured Anita, and had no reason to regret my choice. Even to this day I 
lean back in my chair, and, with a cigar between my lips, think of her 
handsome face and sparkling eyes, for in later years I was very friendly 
with her, as Lewey was with her sister, and there never existed a more af- 
fectionate or loving nature than the dark-eyed girl of Ranche Refugio. She 
was poor, but wealthy in all the good qualities that make a woman blessed. 
Her fate was a tragic one, but I hope that she found peace and rest in heav- 
en, where I am sure she is. I brush the mist from my eyes as I write this, 
and proceed with my yarn, for I dare not dwell on a retrospection of the 
past, and, although years have glided by, there are some things which can- 
not be forgotten by a reflecting and sensitive man. 

We had a gay afternoon in company with those half a dozen girls, and, 
when Anita proposed that we should go to the vineyard near at hand, and 


On Land and Sea. 


232 


pick some grapes, I did not decline the invitation, and, after we had eaten 
cluster after cluster, we sat down beneath the shade of an apple-tree, and 
talked for a long time, and then the conversation drifted toward faith and 
love. Perhaps she was experimenting with the affections of a boy, and co- 
quetting to keep her hand in, and, may be, she was sincere, but she asked, 
as she looked in my face, with all the witchery of her big black eyes, — 

“ What is your religious belief ? ” 

“ That I love you,” I answered. 

“ Are you a good Catholic?” she continued, with a little pout of disbe- 
lief in my assertion. 

“That depends upon yourself. To secure your love I would be any- 
thing.” 

I was getting along very fast, and, like herself, did not mean more than 
half that I said. The captain would have sputtered had he but seen us that 
afternoon, and he might have said “ Scum,” but he did not come near, and 
so we enjoyed ourselves. 

“ Would you go to confession ? Would you tell the good fathers all your 
sins?” 

“ I could only confess my love to you, and I should have no sins if you re- 
turned that love.” 

“ But you are merely a boy. You can know nothing of love,” she laughed, 
and threw back her black hair, so that she could steal a look at my face, 
and see how much of an impression she was making on my susceptible 
heart. 

“ Then you shall teach me as a boy, and when I am a man I will not for- 
get your lessons,” I said, in all earnestness, and quite sincere, for her eyes 
were making serious work with my heart. 

“ When you are a man you will forget Anita, and her home. Sailors are 
not constant. If you were a great captain you would not lower your eyes to 
me, but look up to some rich senorita, who has money, and cattle, and land, 
and I have none.” 

“ Would Anita trust me if I was a captain ? ” I asked. “ She is a Mexi- 
can, and the people of this country do not look with favor upon the gringos.” 

“ Why should we not like the gringos? They are educated, and know 
how to read and write, and I can do neither. Your skin is white, and mine 
is dark. You would not be proud of a wife whose feet have never known 
stockings or shoes, and whose face is like the nights in the wet season.” 

She laid her bare, beautifully moulded arm against my neck, and suffered 
it to remain there for a minute, and then motioned for me to roll up the 


On Land and Sea. 


233 


sleeve of my shirt, and, when I did not obey, performed that duty herself, 
with a blush and a smile, as though we were lovers of months standing. 

“ You see,” she said", as she again contrasted the color of our skins, “you 
are white, and I am dark. If I was like you perhaps you would love me 
when you become a man.” 

“ There is no need of my waiting so long,” I said.. “ I love you now, 
Anita.” 

“ Do you truly ? ” she asked. “ You have known me but a few hours,” 
and the girl laughed. 

“ But those few hours have worked wonders by the aid of your dark eyes. 
Will you grant me one little kiss, Anita, to show that you will not forget 
me ? ” 

“ Yes,” she whispered, “if you will give me something in return.” 

“ Willingly. What shall I bestow upon you, dear? Anything that I own 
shall be yours, if you desire it. Name what you want most.” 

“ Listen to me,” the little woman said, in an eager tone. “ There is not 
a girl at the ranche who owns white stockings. You have a pair on your 
feet. Will you give them to me for a kiss ? ” 

“ Yes, and a dozen other pairs if I had them. But they are too large for 
your little feet,” as I measured them with my eyes, and thought how small 
and shapely they were. 

“ I could take them in at the toes,” was the confident answer. “ All the 
girls will envy me when I appear at the fandangos with white stockings on.” 

“ But all the men will want to dance with you,” I said, a little ruefully. 

“ Yes, I should hope they would, but, while dancing with the men, I 
shall think of you all the time, and wish that you were with me,” she an- 
swered. 

My stockings came off with a run, and Anita soon had them on her feet, 
but she declined all assistance on my part in helping her to a perfect fit, 
even if she was a little awkward at the business. 

The little child gave me not one kiss but a dozen, and then swore that 
she would always remember me, and think of me day and night, while I was 
on the coast, and just at that moment I heard the harsh tones' of the cap- 
tain’s voice. He was asking where his boys were, as it was sundown, and he 
wanted to go on board. 

I snatched a last sweet kiss from Anita’s red lips, thrust a couple of 
silver dollars in her hand, and dashed through the vineyard to the boat, 
where Lewey was already waiting. As I met him, and glanced at his feet, 
I saw that he was without stockings as well as myself. 


234 


On Land and Sea. 


“ You bad boy;” I said, “ you have again made some girl a present of a 
pair of stockings.” § 

The French lad blushed, and then pointed to my naked feet. 

“ Did you give them to Anita ? ” he asked. 

“ Yes ; and you ? ” 

“ To Engracia. She coaxed so hard, and gave me a kiss for dem. No 
Frenchman resist dat. But here comes Peter. No vord to him.” 

The captain came down to the boat quite leisurely, and seemed surprised 
to see us, as Tom and Davy were following in his wake. 

“ Vare you been ?” the old man asked, as he ranged alongside. 

“ Waiting here, sir, for some time.” 

“ Dat is right. Keep avay from de girls dat is not of de nice kind. To- 
day you have been good boys, and I lets you go on shore some more ven de 
Sundays come. Now shove off.” 

We pulled through the surf, and went on board, but supper was not of 
much account, as we were full of grapes and thoughts of Anita and Engra- 
cia. Lewey and I compared the beauty of the girls, and talked of their 
goodness for some days, and then had other favorites to occupy our minds 
for a few weeks. 

Two days afterward we got under way, at four o’clock in the afternoon, 
with a stiff breeze from the northeast, and raced with Mr. Melius to Santa 
Barbara, he riding a spirited mustang, which he had obtained at Ranche 
Refugio. His road was near the sea-coast, and we could see him spurring 
his steed as he dashed along, but when we had fairly entered the wide ca- 
nal, the wind died away while we were within a mile of the point north of 
the port, and Santa Rosa Island was just forward of our starboard beam. 
There we lay all night, drifting about, and sickened by the terrible coal-tar 
smell that surrounded us, and which seemed to bubble up in all directions, 
and left greasy streaks on the water. 

Just at daylight we got a breeze, and run in, and anchored inside the vast 
kelp field that was always to be found in the open roadstead of Santa Bar- 
bara, and may exist to this day for all that I know to the contrary, and 
there otters were quite often seen, sporting on the surface of the water, and 
in the kelp, a prize for the hunters who drifted up and down the coast, and 
laughed at the Mexican authorities, and refused to pay a tax for the sake 
of killing game. But I must reserve all accounts ot Santa Barbara until 
the next chapter. 



CELEBRATING THE FOURTH OF JULY. 


PART NINTH. 

MY FIRST DINNER AT SANTA BARBARA. — DON NORIEGO AND FAMILY. — 
MEXICAN SPORTS AND HORSEMANSHIP. — DISTINGUISHED COMPANY ON 
SHIPBOARD. — MY PRECIOUS BURDEN. — I GET COMPLIMENTED. — A 
WOMAN’S CONFIDENCE. — LEWEY RECEIVES A BLESSING. — OFF FOR 
SAN PEDRO. — CELEBRATING THE FOURTH OF JULY. — A NOTED PER- 
SON. — A SAILING MATCH. — SAN DIEGO. — CLEARING SHIP. — A DOG- 
FIGHT. 

S ANTA BARBARA, in 1843, was a sleepy, pleasant little town, situated 
about half a m : le from a white, hard, sandy beach, which extended from 
Bueno vanturo south, to Point Arenas at the north, where the surf was ever 
raging and moaning. After a southeaster it was dangerous to land there, 
even if a boat dared venture through the breakers. With a northerly or west 
wind the harbor was quite well protected. In the wet season ships were 
compelled to come to anchor outside the kelp, and with springs on their ca- 
bles, so that the chains could be slipped at a moment's warning, if a blow 


236 


On Land and Sea. 


was threatened fronrthe southeast. Then vessels would stand over toward 
Santa Rosa Island, get under its lee, and lie there until the gale abated. 
All the time we were on the coast, however, we were in luck in this respect, 
for we never had to make sail to escape a gale, but we always anchored in 
the winter with everything ready to run if necessary, furling our sails with 
reefs in them, and spun-.yarn for gaskets, so that they could be cut in a mo- 
ment's time. 

The morning we dropped anchor there was some kind of a fete on shore, 
for the discordant bells of the white Mission on the hill, a little to the left 
of the town, were rung with vigor, and we saw people flocking to the church, 
to hear an early mass, or some other religious exercises, and we noticed nu- 
merous ladies, as well as men, going and returning all the forenoon. 

About eleven o’clock the captain ordered his boat, and we pulled him 
ashore. Then I was told to take a bundle to Mr. Robinson, the same gen- 
tleman who married Don Noriego’s daughter, and whom Mr. Dana did not 
like very well, as his book speaks of him in uncomplimentary terms. He 
was no longer a supercargo, but residing at Santa Barbara, living on his 
wealth, and with his pretty wife, and a family of children that any man 
would have been proud of. Perhaps time may have softened some of the 
asperities of the gentleman’s character, or he might have dreaded another 
lecture from a book-making sailor, but, be this as it may, he always treated 
us boys in a kind and fatherly manner, and generally had a pleasant word 
for us. I never passed his house, when he was at home, and noticed me, 
but that he called me to the door, and made me a present of some fruit, or 
a glass of weak wine, and did not put on airs because he was a man of po- 
sition, and I a common sailor. 

I shouldered the bundle, and trudged along the dusty road toward 
the village, while the boat was sent back to the ship, much to 
Lewey’s disgust, for he made a face at the old man, when he was 
not looking, to express his contempt for the order. We met Mr. Melius, 
who stated that he should not go on board until sundown, and conveyed a 
message to the captain to dine with Don Noriego and friends, and said that 
all the members of the family would visit the ship next day, for the purpose 
of doing some trading, and that it was necessary a nice entertainment should 
be prepared for them. Then thelwo separated, and I continued to follow 
the old man to Mr. Robinson’s place, not far from the middle of the village. 
As the streets were not named or numbered in those days I cannot desig- 
nate the exact spot, although I recollect Don Noriego’s house, and its dry 
dusty court-yard in front, and the broad balcony that extended the whole 


On Land and Sea. 


23 7 


front of the residence. It was a large, one-and-one-half-story adobe build- 
ing, with Vi led roof, and reported to be the swell place of the town, as the 
owner was a grandee of Spain, and had some of the best blood in California 
in his veins. His cattle roamed on many hills, and his landed possessions 
were enormous. When added to these comfortable assurances the remark- 
able fact that he had the handsomest unmarried daughter in the town, it 
is no wonder he was popular. In this country any man with a pretty, single 
daughter is looked upon with entire respect, and all of his tedious stories 
listened to attentively, and his most stupid jokes laughed at, as though they 
were really bright scintillations. But wait until the lady marries, and then 
see how quickly the father will be left to talk to indifferent hearers, and pro- 
nounced a bore by every one. This was not the case with the Don, for he 
was a gentleman of intelligence, and could give more interesting reminis- 
cences of the country than any man in it. 

Don Noriego was as charitable and generous as he was hospitable. His 
house was always open to strangers. I used to wish that I was a gentle- 
man, and had a ship load of money, so that I could have the entree of the 
premises, and listen to the grandee’s tales of Spain, and California life. I 
would have endured much more for the sake of seeing his youngest daugh- 
ter, and being near her. As it was, that very day, while the captain dined, 
in company with Mr. Melius, with the noble-hearted old gentleman, I ate a 
modest repast in the court-yard, and, if the latter has not been removed, I 
could pick out the very spot where I sat, and partook of an olla podrida, 
and a huge dish of frijoles. The dessert was a plate of tortillas, a full gob- 
let of wine, two pears, as many apples as I could eat, and a boy’s appetite 
in this latter respect is only limited by his capacity for endurance. I know 
that I surprised the Indian girl who served me, for she said, when she 
found all the fruit gone, — 

“ Holy saints, but the boy will burst.” 

I had confiscated all that I could not eat for the benefit of Lewey and 
Tom. I was not proud in those days, and made it a point never to be dig- 
nified when there was good food lying around loose, waiting to be devoured 
by a youngster with a ravenous appetite. 

I don’t think that I ever enjoyed, in California, a feast more than I did 
that day. Once, when I was in the city government, and a big dinner was 
given to some Turkish admiral and his captains, at the rate of twenty-five 
dollars a plate, while I sat toying with my champagne glass and black Ham- 
burg grapes, without relish for either, 1 suddenly thought of my frugal re- 
past in the court-yard at Santa Barbara, and I had to acknowledge that it 


233 


On Land and Sea. 


was sweeter to the palate than all the state and parade of a municipal feast. 
Once or twice a young lady, the daughter, I supposed, came out on the ve- 
randa, and looked at me in a curious sort of way, and then I suspended 
masticating until she had retired, for it seemed to me unnatural and gross 
to eat in the presence of such a divine and angelic creature. I have got all 
over that sentiment now. Eating is a science, and women enjoy dining 
well and luxuriantly, with as much gusto as the coarser specimens of hu- 
manity. 

These were the first glimpses that I had of Senorita Noriego, and the 
next day I held her in my arms, and carried her to our boat, and deposited 
her in the stern-sheets, yet she cared no more for me than she did for one 
of her father’s peons, for there was a vast difference in our stations in life, 
and a common sailor, in her estimation, was not an elevated specimen of 
humanity. 

After my dinner I wandered around the town, and saw the mounted Ca- 
balleros dashing through the village at racing speed, all dressed in their 
gayest costumes, and “witching the world,” and the eyes of the ladies, 
with their accomplished horsemanship, the best, the most graceful, that I 
had ever seen, and I never saw anything, until later years, when I was com- 
pelled to serve a few months in the irregular Mexican cavalry, mat was su- 
perior. 

Across the street was suspended a fowl, with the feathers plucked from 
the neck, and that neck well greased, and fastened head downward. To 
ride at full speed, rise in the stirrups, and seize the neck of the poor cock, or 
duck, was the ambition of all the Caballeros. It was exciting sport for the 
men, but what the fowl thought of the matter no one had the humanity, or 
curiosity, to inquire. To win it was necessary to tear the carcass from its 
lashings,' or else carry off the neck, torn violently from the body. There 
was no society for the prevention of cruelty to animals in California, in 
those days, and, if there had been, the subscriptions to aid the agents would 
not have amounted to a medio a year. When the Mexicans went in for fun 
there was a little cruelty added to give it spice and flavor. Without torture 
there was no pleasure. 

Some of the feats of horsemanship were truly. wonderful, for the men 
were superbly mounted, and could control their animals by a slight pres- 
sure of the hand, throwing their mustangs on their haunches, or turn 
them as if on a pivot. Riding at full speed, the young men would lean far 
over in their saddles, and pick up a piece of cloth, or a silver dollar, and yet 
not check their course in the least. If they had owned handkerchiefs they 


On Land and Sea. 


239 


could have been secured as easily as the white cotton rags that were thrown 
down to test their skill. 

When the horsemen had torn to pieces half a dozen fowl, and tired of the 
sport, a frisky bull was turned loose, and worried until his life was a burden, 
and he was glad to escape to the hills, all the pride and ugliness taken out 
of his disposition. They pulled his tail, turned him end over end with their 
reatas, lashed him when he felt as though he had had enough of the sport, 
and mocked the animal every way and shape, until there was no fight left 
in him, and, bleeding and dusty, he limped away. 

Then the Caballeros turned their noble minds to the dogs, but the latter 
knew when a fete was on hand, and most of them had taken to the hills, and 
out of harm's way, while the few curs that did not know enough to leave 
the town in time had a hard day of it, and wondered why they had been 
born to take part in celebrating some saint’s festival, and why it was neces- 
sary, to enjoy one’s self, that a man should be cruel, and inflict pain on a 
dumb brute, which could not retaliate, for dogs were never affected with hy- 
drophobia in California, in the years gone by. 

After all the dogs were killed, or scared to death, the gentlemen rode 
races, and some fast time must have been made, but, as all the population 
who were on foot constituted themselves as judges, there was, naturally, 
a little confusion about the final results, and the records could not have 
been very accurate, as there was not a time keeper in the place. There was 
no occasion for one. The people ate when they got up, after lying in bed 
until they were tired. They feasted through the day when hungry; they 
took siestas in the afternoon when sleepy; and they knew that night had 
come when it grew dark. For downright dolce far niente, or double-dis- 
tilled sweet idleness, Santa Barbara, in 1843, was ^ ar ahead of any spot on 
earth that I had ever visited, or have seen since that period. 

With a climate that was perfection in the winter-time, with a beautiful 
sheet of water in front of their homes, there was not a boat owned in the 
whole town; with fish in abundance in the bay, and craw-fish near Point 
Arenas, the people were too lazy to catch either, and it was only when a 
vessel came into port that they could hope to get a mess of pescado to eat 
on Fridays. Then the masters of ships let some of the boys fish for tinker 
mackerel, and the catch was sent on shore, and distributed to the grandees 
of the place, in return for favors received. One day, in Santa Barbara, Lew- 
ey and I caught twenty dozen little mackerel, and the total product was 
given away to people of the town. 

In nearly every house there was the twanging of guitars, and the strum- 


240 


On Land and Sea. 


ming of harps. I saw some pretty girls waltzing, and dancing fandangos, 
but no one asked me to join in, and I could not very well if they had, as I 
was barefooted, and a boy don’t like to waltz with nice young ladies unless 
he is dressed in an appropriate manner. 

At sundown I went to the beach, found the boat waiting, and told the 
boys all the sights that I had seen, and then shared with them the apples 
which I had saved. To be sure, they were a little warm, as I had carried 
them in the bosom of my shirt all the afternoon, but my shipmates were not 
particular or fastidious, and devoured them just as readily as if they had 
come from a silver fruit dish. There was nothing high-toned about their 
stomachs when fruit was at hand, and free. 

The captain and Mr. Melius did not come down until seven o’clock, or 
just dusk. We got through the surf without a ducking, and pulled on 
board, hoisted up the boat, changed our clothes, and had supper. 

The next morning the ship was made ready for company. She was 
scrubbed down fore and aft, and all the brass work was polished until you 
could see your face in it. The flags were got ready for hoisting, and the 
two guns loaded to fire a salute as soon as our distinguished company ap- 
proached the vessel. The old man came on deck, dressed in his best, and 
with a cheerful smile on his face, and, wishing to give the ladies a real 
feast, he ordered Jones and me to take the pinnace, and go to Point Arenas, 
anchor, and bob for craw-fish by the aid of beef-bones, and long pieces of 
spun.-yarn. 

We departed on our errand, but, as we had never seen a craw-fish, we 
were a little doubtful of our success. However, we dropped a kedge just 
outside the rollers, and then Jones lighted his pipe, and commenced work in 
earnest. In a few minutes the old sailor felt something on his beef-bone, 
and when he pulled up there was a black, struggling mass of claws and 
eyes, that looked bad enough to frighten most any superstitious seaman. 

*• Holy Moses,” roared Old Jones, as he glanced over the side of the boat, 
and saw his prize, “ it ’s the devil ! ” and down went the fish to the bottom, 
like a stone, and the old fellow dropped his pipe, and fell back into the bot- 
tom of the pinnace, and swore awfully at the fish, and the men who had 
sent us after such monsters. 

But just at that moment I felt a tug at my line, and pulling up cautiously, 
saw a large craw-fish clinging desperately to my beef-bone, and, after some 
hesitation, landed it in the boat, but no inducement could prevail on Jones 
to make another attempt, and I had the fishing all to myself. I caught six 
in an hour’s time, and they weighed about twenty pounds. They are very 


On Land and Sea. 


241 


good eating, when properly prepared. We secured large numbers after- 
ward, at San Diego, where they were very plentiful, more so than at any 
other part of the coast. 

When we went alongside the old man looked over the rail, and asked 
what success we had met with, and was very much pleased at our luck, but 
complimented Jones on his skill, and the bluff old salt said, — 

“ I did n’t catch one of the bloody things. Thom hauled them all in. I 
don’t like the looks of ’em,” and then the captain smiled some more, and 
went to breakfast. 

At ten o’clock we saw our expected guests leave Don Noriego’s house, 
and walk toward the beach. We boys were dressed in our best clothes, and 
the old man and Mr. Melius entered the boat, and were pulled on shore, 
and, by the time we had arrived there, were joined by half a dozen ladies, 
and some gentlemen, and the old grandee, Don Noriego, himself, looking 
well in his Mexican costume. 

We landed in good shape, turned the boat end for end, laid our oars 
across, put Davy and Tom at each side of the bow, so as to hold it firm, 
and then awaited orders. 

There was some little dispute as to who should take precedence, but at 
last it was settled by Mr. Melius that Don Noriego, and his daughter, and 
other ladies, should go first, and then the supercargo said, in a careless 
tone, — 

“ One of you boys carry this young lady to the boat,” pointing to the 
handsome Senorita Noriego. 

Lewey sprang forward, like the selfish lad that he was, but the captain, 
who knew modest merit when he saw it, waved him back, and I have always 
blessed him for his consideration, as he said, — 

“ Thom, you carry Senorita Noriego to de boat, and don’t let her feet get 
vet.” 

Just as though I would permit such a sacrilege, for she had on the nicest 
of pink silk stockings, and the daintiest little kid slippers, with silver buck- 
les. She had a foot that a fairy would have been proud of, and an ankle so 
small that it did not seem possible it could support her form, slight and 
graceful as it was. 

Lewey fell back, disgusted, and disappointed, while I approached the 
young lady, pitched my hat on the sand, knelt at her feet, with as much 
reverence as I would have shown a fair saint, placed my arms around her, 
lifted her form from the damp sand, and then she put a hand over my neck 
to steady herself, and I carried the precious burden to the boat, and very 


242 


On Land and Sea. 


slow were my steps, very firm my hold, and a long time was I adjusting her 
slight form on the cushions, until at last the captain snarled out, — 

“You goin’ to be all day gettin’ her in de boat, you boy? Hurry up, 
and come for de udders.” 

Ah, well, years have elapsed since that bright, June forenoon, but the 
whole scene is as plainly before my eyes as though it was yesterday. Many 
thousand arms, white, dark, dimpled, fat, lean, skinny, dumpy, scraggy, 
boney, freckled, and powdered, have been around my neck (in waltzing, of 
course) since then, but there was never one could compare with that of the 
young lady whom I carried to the boat, and received in return, for all my 
care, and deep respect, the simple words, sweet as music, — 

“ Muchos gracias, muchacho,” or “ I am obliged to you, boy.” 

I fg’* Hire like thanking her for the great favor she had conferred on me, 
than receiving her expressions of gratitude. 

She was not more than sixteen years of age at the time, about as old as I 
was, yet her sweet face, and large, dark, gentle eyes, have never been for- 
gotten from that day until the present, and if I should ever go to heaven, of 
which there is much doubt in the minds of my nearest friends, I hope to see 
the lady, if possible, as she looked forty years ago, and I wonder if my ma- 
ture judgment will ratify that of my early years, always providing we can see 
and think in paradise. 

Lamartine, in one of his works, says that in his youth he met, in Italy, a 
young girl, whose classic and spirituelle features made such a deep impres- 
sion upon his mind he never forgot them, and that, even when a howling 
mob of sans culottes surrounded him, on the occasion of a revolution in Par- 
is, and the poet was endeavoring to restrain the passions of the blood- 
thirsty demons, clamoring for precious lives, he preserved all of his cool- 
ness and courage, because ever before his eyes was the face of that Italian 
girl, looking down upon him, and encouraging him to remain firm, and re- 
sist the importunities of those who were drunk with passion and rage, and 
knew not what they wanted, unless it was to kill and destroy innocent peo- 
ple, or those who had offended the howling fanatics. 

How little the young lady thought, as she put one of her delicate, exqui- 
sitely moulded arms around my neck, that forty years from the date I 
should write of her as she appeared on that day, and remember every word 
that she uttered. To be sure, while we were pulling toward the ship, she 
did give my vanity a severe rebuke, but I forgave her, and cherished no an- 
imosity on that account. I could have endured much more with pleasure 
for the sake of hearing her speak. 


On Land and Sea. 


243 


After we had stowed six persons in the stern-sheets of the boat, and left 
Mr. Melius to entertain those who remained on the beach, because we 
could not carry more people at one time, and get over the surf with safety, 
we pushed the gig through the rollers, and did not ship a spoonful of wa- 
ter. The captain was at the steering-oar, and making himself agreeable, 
and Lewey was pulling nicely, although a trifle sulky, on account of his 
treatment on the beach, when suddenly the young lady seemed attracted by 
my face. 1 felt the hot blood mount to my temples, for modesty is always 
timid under scrutiny. I hoped that she was about to tell her kind father she 
could never be happy unless she had the hand and heart of a person about 
my size, but, instead of that, the senorita, addressing her parent, and nod- 
ding toward me, said, — 

“ That boy has a very honest-looking face I think.” 

She did not know that I could understand her, which I did, and felt proud 
of her commendations, but that envious Lewey gave a snort of dissent, and 
nearly caught a crab, he was so amused. 

“ Vot de devil is de matter vid you ? ” asked the captain of the French 
lad. “ Keep stroke, and don’t viggle on dat thwart as though you vas set- 
tin’ on de pint of marline-spikes.” 

By a hard effort Lewey suppressed his laughter, but he nevertheless 
kicked me in the small of my back, as a warning that he appreciated the 
compliment I had received, and could fully endorse it. 

“Yes,” said the young lady, still looking at my blushing, modest, timid, 
ingenious face, “ he has an honest countenance, but he is muy feo,” or 
“ very plain.” 

How I did wish that the sun-blister and freckles were off my nose, for to 
them I attributed the unfavorable comments of the lady. I always thought 
they were unjust. 

Lewey gave a mighty giggle, struck his oar on a large piece of kelp, and 
tumbled over, and fell under his thwart, and kicked me as he went down, he 
felt so good. 

“ You jist vait until I gets you on board,” the old man exclaimed, in a dry, 
hard tone, which meant more than he said, and I did not blame the captain 
for his threats, for I thought it very unkind of my chum to laugh at the un- 
complimentary notice I had received. 

Lewey recovered his seat and oar at the same time, and we were nearly 
alongside when the captain gave a sign to stop rowing, and toss our oars, 
and hold them in a perpendicular position, man-of-war style, and then he 
waved a blood-red handkerchief, and our guns commenced to speak, and 


244 


On Land and Sea. 


the Mexican flag went to the fore, and the ship was dressed with all the 
bunting we could command, and a very fine appearance she presented. 
The only mistake that was made was not warning the people of Santa Bar- 
bara that we were to fire a salute in honor of Don Noriego and family, for 
they naturally supposed that a new revolution had broken out, and that we 
were bombarding the town, so old and young took to the hills and Mission, 
to get out of the way, and forty of the principal men of the place wrote 
proclamations, outside of the village, calling upon their friends to rally 
around them, and see that they were installed as treasurer, or secretary of 
State, or some other good paying office, in the new government, and it was 
not until night that the panic subsided, and the people returned home, and 
waited quite patiently until the next alarm. 

There were six guns fired, and a very loud noise they made, and much 
smoke floated over the bay. The young lady would jump every time there 
was a report, and then clap her little hands, and put her fingers in her ears 
to keep out the noise, and we boys, knowing there was no danger, except to 
those who were near the cannon, pretended to be brave, and to like it, at 
the same time we were calculating how many times the old pieces could be 
discharged, and not burst, and kill some one. 

We dropped our oars in the water just as Don Noriego said that the sa- 
lute was equal to that of a man-of-war, pulled alongside, and then the male 
passengers left the boat, and I was directed to look after the ladies. To 
enable them to land on deck in a comfortable manner, and not show their 
ankles by climbing up the steps, which they could not do, an arm-chair was 
slung over the side, and a whip from the main yard pulled them up. To 
prevent their feet from being exposed to the crew of the boat, a large and 
square piece of bunting was wrapped around them, with a belt in front of 
the chair, to prevent the fair passengers from tumbling out, in case of a 
sudden fainting fit, ora desire to squeal when half way to the rail. 

Senorita Noriego refused to be the first to enter the chair. She was will- 
ing that an old duenna should take the risk, so, after some hesitation, I 
strapped the elderly lady in, and gave the signal of “ Hoist away,” and up 
into the air she went, and the yell that she gave might have been heard at 
the Mission on the hill, leaving the inmates to infer that murder, or some- 
thing worse, was being committed by the blood-thirsty revolutionists on the 
ship. 

She was landed on the deck all safe, and shook out her plumage like a 
ruffled hen, and immediately asked how soon dinner would be on the table, 
and wh a * the bill of fare would be. Not frijoles, she hoped. 


On Land and Sea . 


245 


The next one was an aunt, a married lady, who looked suspiciously at the 
covering over her feet, then at us poor, modest boys, set her teeth and lips 
firmly together, and said that she wished she had remained on shore, but, 
before the expression was concluded, she was dangling in the air, reached 
her destination in safety, and expressed a desire for a cup of coffee, well 
sweetened, and without delay. 

But when it came to the fairest and brightest one of the passengers I 
took extra precautions. Never was a princess more carefully looked after 
than the doncellita. I placed her in the chair so carefully that she seemed 
surprised at my tenderness. I buckled the strap in front of her with extra 
precautions, and around her dainty feet I placed the bunting, fold after fold, 
and ail the time I was kneeling before her, praying to Heaven that no acci- 
dent would happen while she was swinging between the sky and water. 
At last the old man grew impatient, and, looking over the rail, asked in a 
querulous tone, — 

“ You goin’ to send dat young lady up here, or keep her all day in de 
boat ? Vot is de matter vid you today ? You acts stupid like. Does you 
vant me to come down dar, and hasten your movements ? ” 

“All ready, sir,"' 1 answered, with a sigh, as, with uncovered head, I put 
the finishing touch to the bunting, and, as the men commenced to walk 
away on deck with the whip, I said to that bad boy, Lewey, — 

“ If you dare to cast your eyes aloft, while the lady is in the air, I will 
brain you with the boat-hook,” and not a boy raised his head from the wa- 
ter’s level. 

With a little, merry giggle the senorita was swung over the side, and then 
wanted to see the latest styles of silks and muslins without a moment's de- 
lay ; also a fashion plate, with the newest method of constructing dresses 
so that bunches appeared at every angle. 

We returned to the shore, and, while I steered the boat, Lewey intimated, 
in his usual contemptuous disregard for all the finer feelings of a boy’s sen- 
sitive heart, that, — 

“ Somebody is spoons on somebody. I ’ll tell Anita ven I sees her.” 

I treated the threat with the cold contempt that it deserved, but I gave 
the French boy a look that must have warned him not to disturb the sleep- 
ing lion of my nature. I did not have a lion-like nature, but it sounds well 
at this late day, so I put it in, as this is a little touch of romance that will 
not be forgotten during life. 

We took Mr. Melius and the rest of the company, and went through the 
surf in fair style, but perhaps we were a little careless, for we shipped one 


246 * 


On La?id and Sea . 


roller, and It washed aft, and some of the ladies got their feet wet, but I did 
not care, as long as I was not interested in any of them. 

I suppose, the company bought liberally of goods, as they had one of the 
best dinners that was ever got up on board the ship. Mr. Cushing was 
very attentive to the young lady, but she did not seem to care any more for 
him than she did for us boys. She knew his position, and her own, and did 
not step out of it, but kept would be lovers at a distance. I believe that she 
afterward married a Chilian, and the poor fellow was shot by the accidental 
discharge of his own f gun, while hunting up North. I think she took for 
her second husband a Mexican, and at the last accounts was still living in 
Santa Barbara. 

After the cabin dinner, while I was lingering near the mainmast, doing a 
little job of work, to keep me from being idle, Senorita Noriego hastily left 
the store-room, and came on deck. I could see that she was in distress, 
and at first feared she had drunk a glass of the sherry wine we brought 
from Boston. But no, on second thoughts I knew that it was an impossi- 
bility. The smell of it would have convinced her of the danger of such a 
proceeding. Something else disturbed her even, sweet temper, for there 
was a frown on her brow. 

“ Muchacho,” she said, as soon as she saw me, making a motion for me 
to approach, and listen to her words. 

I obeyed her direction, and stood before her, with uncovered head, as 
reverentially as I should stand before the Princess of Wales, if the latter 
lady ever sends for me, and praises me for writing this book, which I don’t 
expect she will ever do, although it would be money in my pocket if she did, 
for every journal in the country would speak of the event, and discuss my 
literary abilities for the first time. 

“In what way can I serve you, lady ? ” I asked, although I am afraid 
that my Spanish was not as good as my English, for a boy is always flur- 
ried when a handsome lady speaks to him in a confidential manner. 

“ Tell me,” she asked, in a hurried manner, “how can I get on shore? ” 

“ There are two ways, lady,” I replied, after a moment’s thought, during 
which I was admiring her beautiful face, and glorious eyes, so large and 
liquid. 

“ Name them,” sire demanded, with the air of a duchess, and a stamp of 
her little foot. 

“ First, you can swim, if you don’t have on too many clothes,” I said. 

“ You are loco,” she cried, with an impatient air, and a little frown. 
“ You are crazy. I can’t swim.” 


On Land and Sea. 


24 7 


“ Then there is the boat,” I remarked. “ It is safer, and not usually as 
wet as the water in the bay, although sometimes there is not much to 
choose between them.” 

“ Yes, the boat. You will take me on shore in your boat. Be quick 
about it.” 

“ I dare not do so, lady, without orders. The captain and mate will haze 
me if I am too forward.” 

She did not know what I meant, but she uttered a moan, and wrung her 
hands, and I noticed tears in her beautiful eyes, when she saw that I could 
not aid her. 

“ Will you tell me the cause of your trouble, senorita ? ” 1 pleaded. “ I 
am only a powerless boy, but perhaps 1 can help you in your great distress. 
I would give my life to prevent a tear from dimming your bright eyes. I am 
but a poor American lad, but my heart is very rich in sympathy, and all its 
wealth of affection shall be exerted in your behalf. Will you not trust me, 
sweet lady ? ” 

“ I will,” she answered, and a firm look passed over her face, such a look 
as Joan of Arc assumed when she was about to pitch into the English, 
and lick them, as they deserved. 

“ Listen to me,” she continued, in a low tone, as though fearful some one 
would overhear her. “We had dined, and all were happy. We were not 
looking for serious misfortunes. Every one was gay, yet suddenly the 
captain ” — 

“ Yes, lady,” I said, breathless with anxiety, and I took one step toward 
her. 

“ Suddenly the captain proposed to play us a tune on his accordion,” she 
continued, in a wild, uncertain manner. “ I heard one once. It was years 
ago. I never want to hear another.” 

At this dreadful information I staggered back, and would have fallen had 
1 not caught a belaying-pin, and, before I could rally, I heard the old man 
struggling with “ Wood Up,” but when he came to the solo part, I fled to 
the steerage, and left the young lady to her fate. A boy’s admiration may 
be strong and bold, if not lasting, but it can’t endure everything. As I dove 
down the main hatchway, I cast one look at the senorita. 'She was seated 
in a chair, her hands to her ears, and her face pale as death. I think she 
had fainted. 

“ Lewey,” I said, in a tone that showed how near my heart was to break- 
ing, “ the mate is now in the forehold, and there ’s a whole school of tinker 
mackerel under the bow.” 


248 


On Land and Sea . 


With a bound the French lad was on his feet. He pitched the shirt he 
was mending into his bunk, grabbed his fish-line, and said, — 

“ Den, by gracious, ve vill hab dem for de supper.” 

We got some pork rind from the harness cask, went into the forechains, 
and caught two dozen tinker mackerel before we were routed out by Mr. 
Prentice, and set to work, but he did not scruple to accept some of the fish 
for his supper, even if he did scold. 

In the afternoon the Mexican man-of-war schooner California, Captain 
Cooper, drifted into the harbor under the influence of a stiff northeast 
breeze, and, as the otter hunters had by this time changed their quarters to the 
deep kelp of San Diego, the captain thought that he would remain at Santa 
Barbara for a few weeks, under the impression that the outlaws would become 
conscience-stricken, and come up the coast, and give themselves into cus- 
tody. It is needless to state they were not over-sensitive, and so did not 
come to the windward as was expected, and Captain Cooper bit hi^ hand, 
and cursed the whole race of hunters to his heart’s content. 

The same day the brig Bolivar arrived from Callao, in search of hides and 
tallow, and to do a little trading in spirits and tobacco. Most of the crew 
were kanakas, and our Sandwich-Islanders went on board of her in the 
evening, and almost smoked themselves into a fit of delirium before they 
returned to the Admittance. 

At sundown we took our distinguished company on shore, and got them 
through the surf without much of a ducking, and then I once more carried 
Senorita Noriego to dry land, and saw her wend her way homeward, while 
I stood there on the beach until she was lost to, sight in the gathering 
gloom. Then I sighed because I was not a rich gentleman, got a good 
ducking in the surf, and went on board, and dreamed of angels, and lovely 
young girls, but was awakened to the realities of a sailor’s life by being 
called at midnight to stand my anchor watch. 

We did a thriving business while we remained in port. Every day there 
were parties *of ladies and gentlemen on board, and we Were in the water 
from early morning until late at night. To entertain all the company in a 
regal manner, I used to be sent on shore as soon as the hands were called in 
the morning, and go up to town to some fruit-raiser’s house, and get a large 
basket of apples and pears, and, sometimes, grapes. But what is one 
basket of fruit to four boys, when it has to pass through their hands ? 
Some of the apples would disappear in a mysterious manner, and at last the 
people in the cabin became suspicious that all were not received that were 
sent, just as though we lads could not be trusted with untold eatables. 


On Land and Sea. 


249 


Once or twice the old man called me to the quarter-deck, and asked, in a 
careless sort of indifferent manner, just as though he did not care if he nev- 
er saw apples and pears on his table while we were in port, — 

“ Thom, is dat all of de fruit dat dey sends ? ” and I would answer, with 
an honest glow on my face, — 

“ Yes, sir, I brought on board all that was given me,” which was quite 
true, but some of the apples and pears were out of sight, and being slowly 
digested, perhaps with a severe pang in that part of our anatomies where 
the leather belts were drawn the tightest when hungry. 

One morning I took my basket, and went to the usual house,' and gave 
the little Indian girl who waited on me, half a dozen cakes of pilot-bread. 
She did not mind if they were taken from the bosom of my shirt, and a lit- 
tle moist. They tasted just as good to her, and very profuse was she in her 
thanks, but, when she brought my supply of fruit, there seemed to be some- 
thing on her mind, and she hesitated, as she filled the basket, and then 
looked at me as though she was impressed with my personal appearance. 
For a moment I feared that she was about to overcome me with a declara- 
tion of love, and that I should have to repulse her advances. 

“ You are a good boy,” she said at length, and showed her white teeth, as 
she smiled. 

“ Well, I don’t feel like praising myself,” I replied, in my usual modest 
way, “but I ’ll state for your information that I don’t think that there is a 
better lad on the whole coast of California at the present time.” 

“ And you would not eat fruit that did not belong to you ? ” she asked, 
with another grin. 

“ Not if the owner was looking,” was my prompt answer. “ I like fruit, 
but I am very careful when I take it.” 

“ That is bueno,” she whispered, and looked around to see if some one 
was near to overhear her remarks. “ But don’t eat any of the apples or 
pears this morning. They are muv mal. See,” and she drew a stem or two 
from the fruit, and they came out so easily that I suspected they had been 
tampered with. “ No comeda. Mal,” she whispered, and put her fingers 
to her lips, and glided away. 

I took the hint. Somebody suspected us of eating the fruit, and a trap 
had been set, but, thanks to the girl, we were not likely to fall into it. 

I shouldered the basket, and walked to the beach, but when I was near 
the shanty that stood close to the landing, the rest of the boys rallied out to 
meet me. 

“ Give us two each,” they cried, but I stopped them with a look. 


250 


0}i Land and Sea. 


“None this morning, boys.” I said, quietly, but firmly. 

They would not be put off. 

“ Oh, don’t be mean,” they all yelled, with one accord, angry at not ob- 
taining their usual supply of luxuries. 

“ I am not mean, but we must be honest this morning, at all events,” I 
said. 

A chorus of yells, and that bad boy, Lewey, was the most noisy of them 
all. He liked fruit as well as the rest of us, but he was not a prudent lad. 

“ Boys,” I said, “ we must deny ourselves this morning.” 

“ For what reason ? ” they all shouted, and with resolute looks on their 
faces, as if they meant to use force and violence. 

“Because the fruit has been tampered with. A trap has been set for us. 
Let us avoid it, and for one morning, at least, be honest, arfd prove trust- 
worthy. Let us show the captain that we are proud of his confidence.” 

All thought it best to run no risks, but just then the pinnace came on 
shore for hides and tallow, and Charley, the Dane, saw the basket of fruit. 

“ Give me some,” he said, and grabbed two apples and a pear. 

“It is wrong to take that which does not belong to you,” I remarked, in 
a quiet tone, with a touch of scorn. 

“Oh, shut up,” was the answer, and the man ate the fruit in a rapid man- 
ner, but once or twice he stopped masticating, as though he did not enjoy 
it. 

“ Dey is de meanest tasting apples I ever seed,” the Dane remarked. 
“ Dey is bitter, and has no sweetness in ’em.” 

“ It is because you took that which does not belong to you,” I answered, 
and put my basket in the quarter-boat, and shoved off, but, as we pulled 
through the surf, we saw the Dane leaning over the bow of the pinnace, and 
acting as if he was sea-sick. 

“You see, boys,” I remarked, as we struck the last roller head on, and 
shipped about a barrel of water, half of which run down Davy’s back, be- 
tween his shirt and trousers, “ it pays to be honest. Had we eaten fruit 
that did not belong to us we should have had no appetites for breakfast. 
Now we have stood the test, and will be trusted more than ever. Give way 
lively, for the old man is watching us through the ship’s glass.” 

When we got alongside the captain and mate looked over the gangway, 
and examined our faces with much interest. They saw nothing but timid 
goodness, and turned away satisfied. The steward carried the basket into 
the cabin, and the old man followed. We suspected that Ire was up in all 
the trade marks, and picked the just from the unjust. 


On Land and Sea . 


251 


“ Do you boys feel well this morning ? ” asked Mr. Prentice, as we reach- 
ed the deck. 

“ Never better in our lives,” we answered. “ We are all ready for break- 
fast, sir.” 

“ Well, all that I can say is you had a narrow squeak. Better be careful 
how you eat fruit hereafter. Sometimes it does not agree with boys,” the 
mate said. 

“ Or men either, sir,” I replied. “ You should see Charley, the Dane, 
retching when we left the shore.” 

The mate grinned. He was in the plot, and the blow had fallen just 
where he most desired. He could not have hit on anything that pleased 
him more, for he hated the Dane from the time he had had a row with him 
in the harbor of Monterey. 

I afterward learned that the person who supplied the fruit felt dissatisfied 
with his pay, because he had not given the cabin all that was desired, or 
contracted for, and he had salted half a dozen of the apples and pears with 
some harmless native preparation, putting it in by removing the stems, and 
replacing them, so that no one would suspect the deception unless in the 
secret. It was supposed that we might be trapped, but the thing did n’t 
work, thanks to the little Indian girl, who had, in the goodness of her heart, 
warned me to be careful, and I had taken her advice. The next time I saw 
her I slipped a silver dollar in her hand, as a token of my appreciation of 
her services. 

Mr. Prentice had staked his reputation on our fidelity, and he felt high- 
ly elated when we came up to his standard of honesty; but Charley, the 
Dane, could eat no breakfast, although no questions were asked him regard- 
ing his sickness. 

The next afternoon two fat, good-natured priests, from some distant Mis- 
sion, came on board to do a little trading, and remained until about sun- 
down. They wanted to go on shore just as we were eating supper. Al- 
though it is not customary to disturb a crew at their meals, while in port, 
and even an admiral will delay his departure from a line-of-battle ship, rath- 
er than bother the men while they are eating, yet, as the case was urgent, 
Mr. Prentice turned us up, and sent us off with the holy fathers. 

“ Be very careful,” the mate said, just as we shoved off. “ Don’t let 
them get wet.” 

We answered in the usual manner, and pulled ashore, but there was an- 
ger in our hearts at the unnecessary labor, and the cold bath that we were 
to receive at that hour of the night. 


252 


On Land and Sea. 


I did steer the gig as straight through the rollers as possible, and had no 
idea of wetting the priests, but the heavy oar was knocked from my hand, 
and the boat ran along the beach on its beam-end, and a comber tumbled 
on and crushed us, and, when I rubbed the sand from my eyes, and spit 
out the salt water, the padres were being rolled on the shore, their garments 
drenched, and their large hats floating in various directions. 

I hastened to the assistance of the holy fathers, and helped them on their 
feet, and wrung the water from their cassocks, but the pious men were not 
grateful, and uttered hard words that hurt my feelings, while the impudent 
Lewey rushed toward one of the wet priests, and said, — 

“ Holy father, I am a good Catholic. Vi 11 you give me your blessing ? 
I need it, for I has not been to confession for over a year, and 1 fears for 
my soul if I should die.” 

“ Avaunt, you imp of Satan,” roared the padre. “ Look at me all soaking 
wet through your accursed carelessness.” 

But the other priest was a more jolly and appreciative man, He man- 
aged to smile, as he extended his hand, and said, — 

“My son, take my blessing, but it costs me a pang to give it,” and the 
twain trudged toward the town, dragging their wet garments after them, and 
feeling far from cheerful. 

We never heard that they made a complaint against us, and, if they did, 
it was passed over as an accident, one liable to occur at any moment, for 
the surf was bad at times, and required good management to get safely 
through when it was high. 

After we had exhausted Santa Barbara of hides and tallow, we got under 
way on the 29th of June, and, with a strong northeast breeze, run past Point 
Buenaventura, and, with yards nearly square, sailed along the high coast for 
San Pedro, where we arrived on the 3otn, and dropped anchor in three and 
one-half fathoms of water. 

This port was the worst place we had seen on the coast. It was almost 
an open roadstead, and only one adobe house on the land, occupied by a 
Captain Foster, and his wife, a Mexican lady, and the sister of Don Pio 
Pico. The captain was an Englishman, and did not seem to have much to 
do except order horses and bullocks for the masters of such ships as an- 
chored at the port. We found the bark Tasso there, bound to the wind- 
ward, and she reported that the Barnstable would soon take in a cargo for 
Boston, which was good news for us, but we thought of the many months 
we should have to spend on the coast after she was gone. 

The next day we got out our lumber, made a raft, towed it on shore, and 


On Land and Sea. 


253 


then had to carry it up the high bluff, and place it on the table-land, all 
ready for the Indians and bullock carts. It was terribly hard work, and the 
men swore in a loud tone, and the officers in a subdued manner ; but it had 
to be done, as the agent had no mercy on us, if money was to be made for 
some one. 

As the carts came from town, loaded with hides and tallow, we were re- 
quired to carry everything to the boat, down the hill, and over the sharp 
stones. As the tallow bags weighed some two hundred pounds each, the 
task was not an easy one. Here we also received ten iron flasks of quick- 
silver, and several pounds of gold dust, although where the latter came 
from no one knew, but it was reported that the merchants of the Pueblo 
los Angeles traded for it with the Indians, and the latter would not reveal 
the source from whence it came. There may be rich mines in the southern 
part of California, for all we know to the contrary, and perhaps some day 
the old Indians will reveal their location, and then there will be another 
rush of gold-hunters, a tumult, and neglect of agriculture for a season or 
two. Since this was written I have seen statements that gold has been 
found near Los Angeles, and in paying qualities. 

The captain had been invited to spend the Fourth of July at the Pueblo. 
Mr. Foster procured him a horse, and we rowed him ashore on the after- 
noon of the 3d. He was got up in gay style, but, for a wonder, did not 
wear his white beaver hat. That he left on board, in charge of the steward. 
He told Mr. Prentice to celebrate the day in a becoming manner, and to 
fire a salute of thirteen guns morning and evening, and to give the men plum 
duff, and half a bottle of Boston sherry for each person, except the boys, 
who were not supposed to care for such stuff. I would not at the present 
time, but a glass of wine was not unappreciated in those days. 

No sooner was the captain out of the ship than all work was suspended, 
except sweeping down the decks. Jones and Scotch Jack were employed 
making cartridges for the guns, and an invitation was sent to the officers of 
the Tasso to come on board the next day, and join our mates at dinner, and 
have a good time generally, to which a willing response was returned. 

We boys waited until the captain had mounted his horse, and then we 
ranged ourselves in line, gave him a sudden salute by waving our hats, 
which frightened his steed, and made it shy, nearly causing a catastrophe 
at the start. We shouted out a wish for a pleasant journey, watched the 
captain out of sight, and then went to the lee of the house, and basked in 
the sun until nearly time for supper. When Mr. Prentice wanted to know 
what had detained us we said we feared the old man might come back, and 


254 


On Land and Sea. 


need assistance, which was as good an excuse as we could invent, and was 
acceptable as any, for the mate grinned an incredulous grin and set 
Lewey and myself to pumping out of a barrel two or three demijohns of 
Boston sherry, for the proper celebration of the Fourth of July. Perhaps 
some of the stuff found its way to the steerage for the use of those who 
were not accustomed to be slighted. 

At any rate, after we had filled the demijohns, the fumes of the wine had 
such an effect on Lewey that he put his arm around my neck, and stated 
he was very sorry for all that he had said and done at Santa Barbara, and 
that his active mind had at last hit upon a scheme that he thought would 
bring us prosperity and happiness in the future. 

“ You see, by gar,” said the French lad, dat you has some money corn- 
in’ to you ven you is of age, hey ? ” 

I acknowledged that I should have the modest little fortune of twenty 
thousand dollars when I was twenty-one years old, unless my guardian 
made a mess of the property, and, as he was an honest man, a rare thing to 
find in these degenerate days, I did not think but that the money would 
be forthcoming on demand. 

“ Dat is good,” Lewey said, in a cheerful tone. “ Now you by me be 
guided. Ve goes home ; you gets de money, you buys a schooner, von vot 
sails berry fast. Den ve arrives out here, ve ax all de nice young senoritas 
to come on board for dinner. You see ? ” 

“ Yes, I see all that. But go on.” 

“ Den ve sends a party on shore, and steals von priest. ’ 

“ What do you want of a priest ? ” 1 asked, astonished at his programme, 
a wild and visionary one, it seemed to me. 

“ To marry us. You take de von dat you is spoons on, and I takes some 
udder, and den ve sails avay, and becomes pirates of de Spanish Main, and 
ve make everybody tremble ven ve frown.” 

I indignantly repudiated his plan as being too dangerous. Beside, I did 
not think that a pirate’s life was well calculated to win a young lady’s re- 
spect, and, much to Lewey’s disgust, I would hear no more on the subject. 

I never saw a boy that had such a desire to be a pirate as that French 
lad, and yet he was gifted with rather a tender heart, and when he had' 
drunk a glass of wine always had a desire to kiss somebody, male or fe- 
male, and to swear eternal friendship. 

The next morning we washed down the decks, and at eight o’clock trim- 
med the ship with flags, fore and aft, and fired our thirteen guns in good 
shape, the only difficulty that occurred being a slight misunderstanding be- 


On Land and Sea. 


255 


tween Old Jones and Oliver, causing the latter to get a bat over the head 
with a rammer, or a swab, because he undertook to give orders when the 
old man of-war’s man thought that Oliver should have passed the car- 
tridges, and held his tongue, as Jones was captain of the gun, and would 
brook no interference. Otherwise the salute was a success, and, after it 
was concluded, the steward served out to each man his half bottle of slier- 
r }> ^.fid it was drunk in less than ten minutes. When the dinner hour ar- 
rived Old Jones and Scotch Jack came aft, and wanted some more liquor, 
and Mi. Prentice let them have a tot or two, and that satisfied them until 
afternoon, and then there was a request for something more toney than 
wine, and so two bottles of gin were sent forward, and by that time the 
crew were quite patriotic, and singing songs. Some of the Tasso’s men 
came on board, and Old Jones told Mr. Prentice that there was nothing left 
to treat the new-comers, and one more bottle of gin was given out, and at 
sundown all hands assembled to fire the last thirteen guns. Every one 
wanted to be captain of the pieces, and it was no easy matter to prevent a 
little unpleasantness. But the mate, whose eyes looked somewhat glassy, 
settled the dispute by threatening to pound the heads off of some of the 
most unruly. Then it was proposed to put a six-pound shot in one of 
the guns, and aim at a flock of pelicans that were swimming on the water, 
about a cable’s-length from us. 

The suggestion was adopted, and Old Jones sighted the gun, but, as he 
was a little unsteady in his movements, and dropped on his knees, and near- 
ly went to sleep, while getting the range of the fowl, I did not think they 
were in much danger, and the result justified my opinion, for, when Jones 
applied a red-hot poker to the priming, the gun kicked so badly that the old 
sailor tumbled backward, and brought the iron in contact with Fred’s nose, 
and there was a smell of burning flesh, and a large variety of Dutch oaths, 
mingled with choice English expressions, hardly suitable for the refining 
influences of a drawing-room, and innocent young ladies. 

The shot did not strike within ten fathoms of the pelicans, which Jones 
explained by saying that there was an awful sea on, when, in fact, it was 
quite smooth, and he offered to fight the man who laughed at his failure. 
The mate could only pacify the old salt by letting him have another chance, 
and then every one said that the second shot was the best they had ever 
seen, and that at least two fowl were killed, although the truth of the mat- 
ter was the pelicans were not injured in the least. But Jones declared that 
he ought to have another bottle of gin for his good aim, and intimated that 
he was a full-blooded Englishman, and could lick the life out of any Dane 


256 


0?i Land and Sea. 


or Yankee on board, the first threat being intended for Charley, and the 
latter for no one in particular, for we had no good American sailors in the 
forecastle. 

No one accepting the challenge, Scotch Jack and Jones got into an argu- 
ment about sending up «pars, and blows would have been exchanged if Mr. 
Prentice had not interfered, and gave all hands one more glass of gin. 
Then Jones sat down on the windlass, and cried because he could not go 
home and see his mother, and afterward tumbled over on the deck, and slept 
undisturbed until daylight. But he always said it was the best Fourth of 
July he had ever passed, and that he wished it would come twice a week 
during the voyage. If such a thing had been possible, he would have 
passed his life on the coast quite willingly. 

All the men went to sleep after a while, but Charley, the Dane, came into 
the steerage, and laid down on a chest, and stayed there all night, as the 
forecastle was too warm for him, even the ordinary seamen taunting him 
with being a “ sojer,” and a sneak. 

The cabin company had a merry time of it, and kept up the fun until near 
daylight on the 5th. How much wine was drunk will never be known, but 
the cargo must have suffered a good deal of shrinkage. During the frolick. 
ing some one espied the captain’s white hat, and put it on his head, and 
there was much playful rivalry as to who should hit it, and knock it the 
furthest. When it fell on the cabin floor some one would kick it, like a 
foot-ball, and if the old man could have seen the treatment which the hat 
experienced, he would have shed tears of rage and mortification. 

But he never knew all, although he did sit down, look, feel, and examine 
that hat, for more than an hour, when he returned from the Pueblo, and won- 
dered what had altered its shape, why it did not appear natural, how it had 
lost some of the plush, and what could have started the lining. When he 
spoke to the mate on the subject, Mr. Prentice was ignorant, but thought 
that it must be the warm, dry climate, and the captain accepted the expla- 
nation. Had the steward told all that he knew, there would have been an 
explosion of a severe nature. But he remained silent. 

On the 6th the old man got back to the ship, and with him came Don 
Juan Bandini, and Messrs. Woolskill, Pryor, Carpenter, Temple, and 
Stearns, and Isadora and Anita Stearns, two very handsome young ladies, 
with an American father, and Mexican mother, one a blonde, and the other 
a dark brunette. I was interested in Don Bandini, as Mr. Dana had made 
a California hero of him, and given him the airs and graces of an Adonis. 
The company all resided at the Pueblo, and were merchants and farmers, 


On Land and Sea . 


257 


and some of them may be there at the present time, or, if not, many of their 
descendants must be, for they would be foolish to leave such a paradise as 
Los Angeles for a strange country, and hard work. 

As we pulled the party on board, I had a fair view of Don Bandini, and 
- was greatly surprised at his ordinary appearance. Instead of being a hand- 
some man, in my view he was quite the reverse. He was thin and dark, 
with eyes that were heavy, a face that showed age, and there were deep 
wrinkles around his temples. His hair was coarse and stiff, his beard and 
mustache scraggly, not soft and silky. In addition, he had a decided stoop 
to his thin shoulders, and his chest was narrow and weak. 

He appeared to me like a man who had done too much work of a labori- 
ous or mental character, and was prematurely old. This was only five 
years after Mr. Dana had seen him, and the change must have been great 
in that short time. However, his credit was good with Mr. Melius, and he 
bought a large bill of goods, as did the rest of the company. I suppose 
they were paid for, but that did not concern me. 

A nice dinner was given the party, and all remained on board during the 
night, and the next day some carts came from the Pueblo with hides, and 
two barrels of luscious grapes, a gift from one of the gentlemen, who owned 
a large vineyard at Los Angeles. 

I remember those grapes very well, as I was allotted the disagreeable 
task of picking them over, aft of the house, and that confounded Lewey 
would dodge around the upper cabin every few minutes, and hand me a 
deck bucket, with the cool request that I should fill it, so he could convey 
the fruit to the steerage. 

I think that I complied with his wishes six different times, but when he 
came for the seventh supply I rebelled, and asked him to consider my po- 
sition and responsibility, and he sneered at the words. However, I was 
firm, and, when the old man said that the grapes did n’t pan out very well, 
I stated that they must have been bruised during the long journey, and 
that it was best to throw the damaged ones overboard, and he said that he 
thought the plan was a good one, but that he would let Bill finish the job, 
as my services were wanted in another part of the ship. But we did not 
suffer for fruit during our passage to San Diego, for which place we left af- 
ter we had secured all the hides and tallow that the district afforded. 

The Tasso got under way the same time that we did, as her captain was 
anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Admittance. There was a strong 
northeast breeze, and the bark would have to beat up the coast, being bound 
to Santa Barbara. 


On Land and Sea. 


258 


We tripped our anchors at the same moment, and then braced sharp up, 
and stood over toward the Island of Catalina, but, for the purpose of allow- 
ing the Tasso to draw ahead, we did not board the main tack, or hoist our 
topgailant sails, and even then we were compelled to back our mizzen-top 
sail to let the bark get a fair distance in advance. 

When she was about a quarter of a mile from us we made all sail, took a 
pull on our lee braces, put watch-tackles on the topsail sheets, and sent 
Chips to the wheel. There was an eight-knot breeze, and smooth water, 
and we walked up to the Tasso as though she was lying at anchor, weather 
reached her more than a cable’s-length, shot ahead, and then put our helm 
up, and crossed her forefoot, and commenced our passage to San Diego, 
but in the afternoon the wind died away, and we were becalmed within 
sight of Point de Loma, and just outside of the immense kelp fields that 
fringe the coast of the port. The captain of the Tasso never asked us to 
sail another race with him, and did not even allude to the trial of speed 
when we met the bark at Monterey, some weeks afterward. 

All night it continued calm, and not until the next afternoon did we get 
wind enough to fan us through the vast fields of anchored kelp, where we 
could see an otter occasionally poke up its nose, and take a timid, half- 
frightened, half-surprised look at us, and then sink to the bottom, and re- 
main there until all danger was passed. 

The captain got out his rifle, fired at one, and hit it, but could not have 
killed it instantly, as it sunk, and was seen no more. The hunters told us 
that the wounded ones went to the bottom, and clung to the kelp even after 
death, and that, when decomposition set in, and they floated, the skins were 
useless for traffic. They said that otters had to be instantly killed by a ball 
through the brain, and that then they would remain on the surface of the 
water for a few minutes, affording a chance to secure the prize, but there was 
no time to be lost in paddling to the victim, and taking it on the boat, as the 
air that floated it escaped quite rapidly, and, when it was exhausted, down 
went the body. 

We sighted the narrow entrance to the harbor of San Diego, but the 
wind headed us, drawing off from the land, so we had to make frequent 
short stretches to the anchorage. The vessel was well handled, and by 
five o’clock we were opposite the huge hide house that belonged to our 
firm, and came to, and moored ship within half a cable’s-length of the shore, 
a smooth, sandy beach, with not a single ripple breaking upon it, the best 
harbor and landing place on the coast. 

There were half a dozen hide houses on the beach, and all were occupied^ 


On Land and Sea. 


259 


and in full operation. Two or three dozen sailors, white men and kanakas, 
sat in front of their quarters, and watched us as we furled sails, and com- 
mented on our appearance, for we had been expected for several weeks, and 
all were anxious to see the crack ship of the coast, as the Admittance was 
known to be fast, and well taken care of by the captain and officers, and 
when we were at anchor the vessel was as trim and neat as a sloop-of-war. 

The town was at the head of the bay, some five miles distant, and we 
could not see it from where we were lying. It was said not to amount to 
much, and report was true in this respect. It did not, for it was the dead- 
est, sleepiest hole in California, and the inhabitants had not enough energy 
to go in their houses, such as they were, when it rained, or to crawl into the 
sunshine when it was pleasant. But the climate was excellent, and all 
kinds of fruit could be raised in abundance, when the people had sufficient 
energy to plant vines and trees, and water them once in a while. I believe 
that the San Diego of the present day is a different looking town, with a nice 
hotel, energetic people, and all the modern improvements, such as tele- 
phones, gas, and water. I hope to live long enough to visit the place some 
day, and wonder at the changes as much as some of the old Mexican resi- 
dents, who still look with surprise at the enterprise of the gringos. 

As soon as the ship was moored, and the sails furled, tackles were got 
up on the fore and main yards, the launch was hoisted out, and prepara- 
tions made for hard labor the next day. After supper the captain was set 
on shore, and we saw some of the men who were engaged in curing hides. 
They said that they liked their occupation, and preferred it to knocking 
about on the coast, pulling and hauling ropes, and carrying goods to the 
shore. The place smelled like a slaughter house, and the vats, where the 
hides were soaking in brine, were enough to turn the stomach of a well 
man, but the people did not mind it, as they had become accustomed to the 
odor, and grew fat on the strength of it, for the more they stirred the skins, 
the better their appetites. The air was so pure that disease, except small 
pox, was unknown in the place. 

There were about ten dogs belonging to each house, of all degrees of 
shade, color, or breed. As they were continually quarreling over dainty 
bits of rancid fat, or well-picked bones, the noise they made was a little 
confusing, until we got accustomed to it. 

Our hide house was nearly full, and, with what we had on board, would 
make a complete cargo for the Barnstable, and after she was gone we could 
becrin to pick up for ourselves, and we should have to do it without assis- 
tance, as it was understood at the time that the owners would not send an- 


26 o 


On Land and Sea. 


other vessel to the coast until the Admittance returned, trade being over- 
done, and hides and tallow growing scarcer every year. There was so much 
competition that credits were given to parties who were destitute of the 
first principles of honesty, and had no thought or desire of paying their 
debts, even if able. 

The next morning, at daylight, all hands were called, and we commenced 
getting all the spare spars on shore, the superfluous sails, the studding-sail 
booms, and glad enough we were to get them off the yards, and we hoped 
never to see them again ; and then we landed a lot of our spare provisions 
so as to make room for the hides, which we might gather on our way up 
and down the coast. 

While we were on shore one day, Lewey and I took a great fancy to a 
small, compact bull-dog, that belonged to our hide house. He was clever, 
and full of pluck, but a greaser, from San Diego, used to come down to the 
beach every morning with a native Mexican cur, twice as large as ours, and 
the dog, on account of his size, would generally clean out the whole crowd 
of canines belonging to the white men and kanakas. Then the Mexican 
would sit on his horse, and laugh, and say “ Mucho bueno perro,” and ride 
off, grinning all over. 

Our little dog generally gave the cur a neat tussle, but he was over- 
weighted, and always had to get out of the way. The greaser would usually 
provoke us by asking if we could not find something that was capable of 
standing up to the work, and fighting a little, and not turn tail like a coward- 
ly gringo. 

At last Lewey, Tom, and myself could endure it no longer. The honor 
of our hide house was at stake. I asked the keeper of the premises if he 
would sell me the brindle bull dog for a dollar, and he was glad of the 
chance. Then we tied^our property, up in the hide house, and fed him spar- 
ingly on raw meat, and the carpenter took an old tin plate, and made us a 
collar, two inches wide, with nice, sharp, scallopped edges, and fastened 
with a lock and key. The steward gave us half a pint of pepper sauce, a 
quarter of a pound of red pepper and snuff, and was as interested in the 
coming battle as the boys, for, since his love affair, he hated the whole 
Mexican race. If Mr. Prentice knew what was going on he kept his own 
counsel, and said not a word, but I think that he suspected we were up to 
some mischief. The old man was blissfully ignorant of all the honor we 
intended to confer upon the ship, but, for prudent reasons, we did not think 
it wise to enlighten him on so important a subject. 

One day, when we were all ready, and carrying hides from the launch to 


On Land arid Sea. 


261 


the house, the greaser came prancing down the beach, his dog at the horse’s 
heels, as usual, and spoiling for a fight. We thought that the time had ar- 
rived for a discharge of all claims that we had against him. I winked to 
Lewey and Tom, and, as we entered the house, fell out of line, as though 
ill, and then went to our pet, rubbed his head and shoulders full of red pep- 
per, and snuff, and pepper sauce, sprinkling the former on every vulnerable 
part, and in five minutes the work was done. We darted out of the door 
when no one was watching us, and found shelter and concealment in the 
rear of the immense building, where there was not much passing for the 
time. 

The Mexican’s dog had noted our movements, and he came trotting along 
to see if he could not find a new business engagement. He had no trouble 
in that line. Our pet was furious because he had been confined so long, 
and was strong with good feed, and quiet exercise. 

There was no need of saying “ Go for him, Jack,” because Jack knew his 
work. There was an angry growl, a recollection of all the wrongs that he 
had suffered at the mouth of the Mexican cur, a clinch, a cloud of dust, and 
then the tin collar which our dog wore stood him in good need. The 
greaser’s property made a snap at Jack’s neck, as usual, but his teeth struck 
a harder substance than hair and skin. Just then who should turn the cor- 
ner of the house but the captain, and he accidentally stumbled on the pret- 
tiest little dog-fight that ever occurred on the beach, long the pride and 
glory of the boys of the Admittance. Even to this late day the captain 
cannot speak of that battle without deep emotion of some kind almost over- 
powering him. 

“ Vot de divil is all dis about ? ” roared the captain, who did not at first 
seem to appreciate our efforts to reflect credit on the hide house. “ Vot is 
you boys up to now? Vy did you sets dem dogs a fightin’? De little von 
vill get vhipped, you fools, ’cos de greaser's dog is twice as large as de little 
von. (No, he von’t. He ’s got ’em novv.) You should be ashamed of yer- 
selves ; and I dinks you is such nice boys. (Good for our dog. He has 
’em agin.) You is a disgrace to de ship. (By Jove, our dog vill vhip 
de life out of him.) Do you dink you have nothin’ else to do but spend 
your time in dis manner? (Vot makes de big dog sneeze dat vay ?) If you 
dink de owners pays you six dollars a month to fight dogs you is mistaken. 
(Look at dat. See de little fellow chaw at him.) Go to yer vork, and don't 
let me hear of any such doings agin. If you do dar vill be some vhippin’, 
and I ’ll take a hand in it. (Now look at dat little feller. By dunder, de 
greaser’s dog is flogged all out of his boots. He vill not come around here 


262 


On Land and Sea. 


any more. See him chase dat big cur. Dat is good.) And now you just 
start yerselves to carryin 1 hides, and don’t let me ever hear of such disgrace- 
ful dings agin. You is de vust boys dat I eber seed on board of a ship. 
You is- always in some mischief. You should be flogged vonce a day, for a 
year, to make you good.” 

This was on the 17th. of July, 1843, and just thirty-six years from that 
date, when my daughter was mairied to one of the owner’s nephews, and 
the captain and his wife were present, what a different story he told. With 
a glass of champagne in his hand, and his honest old face flushed with pleas- 
ure, he had the audacity to say that I was the best boy he ever saw, and the 
pride and honor of the ship. Yet, on that day in San Diego, when I was 
doing all that I could to show the superiority of the Admittance, I was con- 
demned. There was a mistake somewhere, or else the captain had forgotten 
many things, under the influence of good cheer. He will never cease to 
recollect that dog-fight, and, to tell the truth, I really think he enjoyed see- 
ing the big bully of a cur punished so severely that he never could be in- 
duced to visit the beach again. The old man gave his consent that I should 
take the brindle dog on board, and keep him there, and a very nice pet he 
became, fore and aft. But he did like to fight, and could even face a big 
coyote, and drive a dog twice his size. 

The following Sunday morning the captain ordered his boat’s crew to 
dress in their best clothes, and get ready to row him up to the town. 
Thinking that we might have a brisk breeze we put the sail in the gig, 
and started about eight o’clock. It was a long pull, and a warm one, for 
there was not a breath of air, and when we had hauled the boat over the 
flats, the old man left us, but with orders that one of the boys should remain, 
and keep watch over the property, as it was feared that some of the na- 
tives would steal all that was in the gig. Davy was assigned to the duty, 
and the rest of us wandered around the town, saw the old Mission, falling 
into decay, and a few sleepy inhabitants, some adobe buildings, none too 
clean, an Indian or two on horseback, many dirty Mexican mothers, exam- 
ining more dirty children’s heads, Snd when the captain sent a peon to tell 
us to come to a Captain Fitch’s to dinner, we were glad to obey the com- 
mand, and left the boat to take care of itse’f. During our absence the In- 
dians stole the sail, the boat-hook, and cut off the painter, and carried every- 
thing away but the oars. The captain was howling mad.'but, as he had sent 
for us, there was no one to blame, and so he made the best of it. 

The peon conducted us to Captain Fitch’s house, one of the largest in the 
town, and then we had dinner served to us in the garden, and a very good 


On Land and Sea. 


263 


meal it was, with permission to pick all the fruit that we could eat, and we 
availed ourselves of the offer to the fullest extent. 

This was the same Captain Fitch Mr. Dana raked down so unmercifully, 
by calling him “a fat and vulgar Yankee.” He was fat, and a Yankee, yet 
he was not vulgar, but one of the most generous, whole souled Americans 
on the coast. He was rich, yet he had made his money in a legitimate man- 
ner. If a Mexican wanted to borrow a large sum on land and cattle, Captain 
Fitch would accommodate him, and charged twelve per cent for it, which 
was not an exorbitant price, considering all things, and I have heard of 
people, even on State Street, Boston, taking twenty-five per cent, and wish 
for more. As for vulgarity, I once saw a bank president, worth four million 
dollars, and a resident of Beacon Hill, deliberately part his coat tails, and 
back up in front of a number of young ladies, at a brilliant ball, which I at- 
tended, where there was much fashionable society present, and no one 
dared to kick the fellow out of the drawing-room, because he had money, 
and it can work wonders in certain circles of Boston, and elsewhere, in 
America. 

I understood that Captain Fitch always laughed at Mr. Dana’s description 
of himself, tjut, as he was a sensitive man, he must have felt the thrust 
quite keenly. He never asked me to enter his house while I was on the 
coast, and I had no reason to expect that he would, but I seldom passed his 
door, when he was at home, and noticed me, that he did not call to me to 
go into his garden, and pick all the fruit I desired. I know that he was a 
great favorite all over the coast, and was as honest a man as ever resided at 
San Diego, where he carried on business. I suppose that he has long since 
passed away, but, if he has children living, I trust they will read this hum- 
ble tribute to a man whom I esteemed, and whom I recollect even to this 
late day. He saved his money, and became rich, but that is no crime. I 
should like to be rich myself, just to see how it feels to have plenty of mon- 
ey, and be able to spend it. 

That evening, when we got ready to return to the ship, the tide was out, 
and our boat high and dry on the flats. We had to pull it through the mud 
a long distance, and then the old man desired to be carried half a cable s- 
iength. For this important duty Davy was selected, as he was the strong- 
est of the crew. 

Poor Dave started off with his load with confidence, and hope, but, un- 
fortunately, stepped into a hole, and down he went, and the captain, and his 
white beaver hat, went on top of him. They floundered around for a few 
minutes, until at last the old man gained his feet, and Davy sat up in the 


264 


On Land and Sea. 


water, and blew the mud out of his mouth, and rubbed his eyes clear of 
dirt. Then Lewey nearly tumbled over, he wanted to laugh so much, and 
the captain said, in an angry tone, — 

“ You blasted fool, vot did you do dat for ? ” and looked at his hat in sor- 
row, and then waded to the boat, and did not recover his temper until the 
next day. 

We picked up, in the course of the week, some fifty tons of stone ballast, 
to take the place of the salt we had discharged, and during the latter part of 
July got under way for San Pedro, and glad enough we were for the change, 
as we were tired of San Diego, and its sand-hills, fleas, and dogs. As 
the wind was not favorable we beat out, and stood to the eastward, and 
worked our way up the coast, with nice bright skies and warm weather. 
Even our dog barked with delight as we cleared the kelp, and felt the mo- 
tion of the Pacific, and one watch was told to go below, most joyful of com- 
mands when you have a good book to read, or feel a little lazy and sleepy, 
and have been working hard for several weeks. 



PART TENTH. 

SAN PEDRO. — DUCKS AND WATER. — PASSAGE TO SANTA BARBARA. — 
GENERAL CASTRO ISSUES A PROCLAMATION, AND VISITS OUR SHIP. — 
THE RANCHE REFUGIO. — OUR DISAPPOINTMENT. — SAN LUIS OBISPO. — 
THE CAVE. — WATCHING HIDES ON SHORE, AND A FANDANGO. — ANI- 
TA AND ENGRACIA. — MONTEREY, AND THE NEW GOVERNOR. — MEXI- 
CAN TROOPS. — ARRIVAL OF WHALESHIP MAGNOLIA, OF NEW BEDFORD. 
— MINCE PIES. — LEWEY AND. I ARE INVITED TO GIVE AN ENTERTAIN- 
MENT ON SHORE BEFORE THE ELITE OF MONTEREY, AND WE ACCEPT 
THE HONOR. 

A S soon as we got outside of the kelp fields the wind died away, and we 
drifted about for two days, with hardly breeze enough to keep the ship 
under steerage way. As we were having watch and watch, and the between 
decks were entirely clear for fancy work, except the store-room, and the 
place where we messed, near the mainmast, we did not mind the delay in 
the least. Old Jones and the sail-maker were employed below in getting 
ready a new set of topsails, for Cape-Horn weather, and the boys made 
spun-yarn, or did light work of some kind, and so the time passed until we 
took a strong northeaster, and beat up to San Pedro, four days being spent 
on our passage, the weather all the time being just perfect, with clear skies, 



266 


On Land and Sea . 


and neither hot nor cold. We saw the body of an old Indian floating in the 
water, as we came to anchor, but no one cared for it, and so it drifted to 
sea, and was eaten by the sharks. 

We dropped anchor in the usual place, and the landing looked as uninvit- 
ing as ever, while the whole mesa fields about the port were burned and 
parched, and did not appear capable of sustaining even a grasshopper. The 
little stream that emptied into the roadstead was shrunken, and fast drying 
up, but still teemed with wild ducks, and they were so tame it seemed 
cruel to shoot them, one discharge of a ship’s musket, in a large flock, being 
sufficient to secure enough for all hands for a day’s consumption, even had 
the men hankered for game, which they did not, detesting the sight of 
geese and ducks, preferring fresh beef, as salt junk could not be obtained 
unless on a long passage, and then the men would go for old horse as the 
gourmand does for truffles and turkey. 

The pinnace was sent up the stream for several days to get water, and, 
as a gun was always taken in the boat, we had plenty of game all the time 
we were in port, but at last the crew almost sickened at the sight of a duck, 
and swore that we should have pin-feathers growing out of our bodies un- 
less the diet was changed to one more in accordance with their taste, and 
English Jack vowed he would cut stick if another duck was brought on board. 

The captain went up to the Pueblo in company with Mr. Melius, and was 
gone several days, and, when he came back, brought as guests some resi- 
dents of the town, among them Messrs. Stearns (who had a very pretty 
Mexican wife), Reed, and Bell. Then came several loads of hides, and we 
had to carry them on our heads to the boats, and very hard work it was, and 
many were the curses the place received from all hands in consequence of 
the severe labor over sharp and slippery stones. 

On Sunday, the last day of our remaining at San Pedro, Captain Foster 
and his wife dined on board, and were very nicely entertained. The lady 
was not a handsome woman, but rather pleasant, and had a nod and a smile 
for us boys at all times, and those things count more than beauty some- 
times, but not always, for what an amount of nonsense a man will endure 
from a pretty woman, and how impatient he will become when a plain 
one bothers him, if busy. 

We up anchor that evening, and headed for Santa Barbara, but the wind 
was light, and baffling, and we did not near the port until the third day, 
and then we got through the kelp after dark, and were guided to our an- 
chorage by a terrible fire that was raging in the dense forest on Point 
Buenaventura, It was a grand but awful sight, for the whole heavens were 


On Land and Sea, 


267 


lighted up for miles in extent, and the northeast wind carried the smoke 
from the water, over toward the coast-range of mountains, thus showing 
us the full strength of the conflagration. We could look up toward the 
high land of the point, and see the flames as they leaped from tree to tree, 
and the roaring could be distinctly heard at the anchorage, although we 
were some two miles distant, dead to windward. 

As the Santa Barbara people had serious thoughts that the world was 
coming to an end, all the religious portion of the community were at the 
Mission, praying as hard as they could to the various saints, while the 
wicked men played monte, smoked cigarettes, and hoped that the fire would 
be extinguished by the time the next rainy season set in. As long as it 
kept at a distance they were not disturbed. For four days and nights the 
flames raged, and then died out for want of material on which to feed, and 
Point Buenaventura looked black, and dreary, and desolate, instead of 
green and picturesque. 

The ship California and the bark Don Quixote arrived from the wind- 
ward, and reported the Barnstable at Monterey all well, and that there were 
symptoms of another revolution breaking out, as a new govornor had 
taken office, and Alvarado retired. We did not take much stock in the re- 
port, but the next day General Castro, at the head of the military forces of 
the country, marched through Santa Barbara, with sixty or seventy mounted 
soldiers, and a fanfan of trumpets, that caused all the young ladies in the 
town to be overjoyed at the spectacle. He issued a proclamation calling 
upon all Mexicans to be good and brave, to respect General Castro, as he 
was the greatest hero that ever drew a sword, to look with suspicion on all 
Americans who were not naturalized, to contribute a little money for the 
benefit of the cause, to feed his men liberally, to remember that Don Juan 
Castro was a man in every respect, that he had never lost a battle (he might 
have added that he never gained one, but his modesty prevented), that the 
eyes of the whole of Mexico, and, consequently, the civilized world, were 
on him, and his crew of ragamuffins, and that where Castro was there would 
be found the hardest fighting that was ever known on the continent, that he 
was Castro, and nobody else, no matter what people might say or do. Faith 
and reliance were to be placed in him, and in nobody else. He was the 
greatest gasconade that California ever produced, and some years afterward 
Lewey and I had heaps of fun in watching his movements when an enemy 
was near our camp, or on our trail. 

The gallant soldier wanted to be governor, but Pio Pico stood in his way, 
3Uid he did not dare to make a direct attack on the latter, as the people 


268 


On Land and Sea. 


rather favored him, so Castro thought that he could dazzle the imagination, 
like the great Napoleon, and that there would be a rising en masse in his 
behalf some day. 

After the issuing of the prometimiento, General Castro took a drink, and 
then visited our ship. We gave him a salute of seven guns, and hoisted 
the Mexican flag at the fore, and the gallant soldier seemed to like the 
smell of powder, and he did not object to the dinner that was given him, or 
the wine set before him, of which he drank his full share, and then blessed 
us to our faces, and cursed us in choice Spanish when he was once more on 
shore, and surrounded by his Falstaff army of cattle thieves and cut- 
throats. 

Captain Graham, of Santa Cruz, in referring to that proclamation after- 
ward, said that Castro was one of the best warriors he ever knew, for he 
never fought, and that the gallant general could be driven over the moun- 
tains, men and all, pell-mell, by a resolute man, with a straw a foot long. 
Castro was never known to hurt any one, except by paper bulletins, and 
hard words, and taking horses and cattle. 

The general seemed quite pleased at the treatment he received on board 
of the ship, and^when we pulled him ashore, and landed him without get. 
ting a ducking, he said that we were good boys, but did not prove it by an 
excess of liberality, or even put his hand in his pockets. Perhaps they were 
empty, as the people did not come down very readily at his call for money. 

We were again visited by all the distinguished people of the place, and I 
once more had the happiness of carrying Senorita Noriego through the 
surf. By this time the sun-burn had disappeared from my nose, and the 
freckles were not very vivid, and I hoped that she would recognize and give 
me a smile of welcome, but she had no more remembrance of me than she 
did of the half hundred Yankee boys on the coast. This was very mortify- 
ing to me, and Lewey renewed his old argument of turning pirate, and 
forcing the haughty lady to see that I was worthy Of her attention, but I 
could not reconcile myself to the course he marked out, and so the plan fell 
through once more, and the lady was safe from our terrible designs and 
never knew the danger she was in at the hands of two boys. 

After we had exhausted the trade of the place, or the people had run in 
debt as deeply as Mr. Melius deemed prudent, we got under way, and beat 
up to Ranche Refugio, where we anchored in the open roadstead, and the 
boys longed for the order to man the boat, as Lewey and I hoped to get 
glimpses, and perhaps interviews, with Anita and Engracia. 

It was not until near sundown that we landed, and then the captain told 


On Land and Sea. 


269 


us to wait for him, as he was going to the house to order down some hides 
for the next day. As soon as his back was turned we ran past the trees 
and vineyard, and found the house where the young girls lived. 

Anita, I gasped, as soon as I saw an old woman, whom I supposed was 
her mother. 

“ Engracia,” sobbed Lewey. 

“ Gone, ’ said the old lady, with a grin. “ Give me some tobacco,” and 
held out her hand. 

“ Where ? ” we demanded, not noticing the request. 

“To San Luis Obispo, for a visit to an uncle, and they will not be 
back for a month. Have you a bit of ship-bread about your persons, as 
well as tobacco ? ” 

We gave her the half a dozen cakes that we had smuggled ashore, and a 
piece of tobacco, and then, with sorrowful hearts, returned to the boat. 
Life was no longer endurable at Ranche Refugio. We could not even see 
our more respectable lady friends, for the old man had told us to stick to 
the boat, and it would not do to disobey him, and let him know it. 

He came down a few minutes after we had returned, a Mexican with him. 
They were talking together as well as they were able, and the captain an- 
nounced that the ship was to stop at San Luis for several days, on our way 
to Monterey. That was the very place we wanted to go to, because it was 
barely possible we might see Anita and Engracia. We could hardly be- 
lieve the news, it was so good, and wanted to ask the captain if he was 
surely in earnest. But, as he would probably have snubbed our bud- 
ding search for information, we kept quiet, and listened. Yes, there was 
no mistake about it. Mr. Melius had been to the ranche a few days before, 
and left a letter stating that he would join the ship at San Luis Obispo 
We could hardly keep from shouting in our great joy, and we pulled on 
board with lightened hearts. We should have been glad to have weighed 
anchor that evening, and gone to sea, but it was not to be. 

All the next day we received and carried hides on board, yet I found 
time to run up to the house, and see the handsome sisters, one of whom I 
had waltzed with when we were there before. She knew me at once, and 
smiled a pretty little smile, and told me to go into the vineyard, and pick 
some fruit. She did not ask me to take a turn with her around the room, 
much as I should have liked it. But I filled my shirt bosom with fruit, and 
then thanked both young ladies, and returned to the beach. They were 
two of the nicest girls in California, and I regret that I have forgotten their 
names. I hope that they are still living, and have children as handsome as 


270 


On Land and Sea. 


their mothers were, and just as amiable and polite. If I had been a young 
man, rich and agreeable, I should have felt tempted to make love to one of 
them, and I don’t see how any gentleman could have resisted their charms. 
They were far from being as handsome as Senorita Noriego, but more af- 
fable, not having been born in the latter’s station in life, or with illustrious 
ancestors, or having so rich a father. Many of those old Mexican families 
have been ruined- since the country was annexed, through the rascality of 
the various commissions, which our government appointed to investigate 
land claims. Men who had owned thousands of acres were deprived of 
them because they could not comprehend our language, or understand what 
the commissions were for. 1 fear that Don Noriego and family suffered 
with others, in this unjust treatment on the part of the United States. If 
they had spent their money freely for lawyers and fees their lands might 
have been saved. 

We weighed anchor after three days’ detention at the ranche, and then 
beat around Point Conception, sometimes under double-reefed topsails, the 
wind being fresh, and then again without a breath of air, and with thick fog. 
But we poked along the coast, and discovered San Luis one morning, 
and ran in. Not a house was in sight. It seemed a wilderness, — rocks, 
and mountains, and a sandy beach, on which the water was very shallow 
for a cable’s-length. When we landed at a high bluff, called the Cave, we 
found Mr. Melius waiting for us. He said that some hides might be down 
toward dusk, and that two of the boys would have to remain on shore all 
night to watch them, as it would be too late to remove them to the ship that 
evening. The captain intimated that he would attend to the matter, and 
then he and Mr. Melius went off to some ranche that was hidden from the 
landing by the hills and trees. 

It was not a desirable job to stay on shore at night, as the place was wild 
and lonely, and there were plenty of bears in the neighborhood, and some 
bad men lived in close proximity. But Lewey and I thought that Anita 
and Engracia must be close at Band, and wished that we might be selected 
to guard the hides until morning, having a faint hope that we should en- 
counter the girls in some manner. Sure enough, the captain, when he re- 
turned from the ranche, asked Lewey and me if we were courageous enough 
to sleep at the Cave, in case we had a loaded musket at hand to kill the 
bears, and keep the bad men at a distance. We said that we would risk it, 
if he desired us to do so, and after supper one of the ship’s guns was load- 
ed up, and we took our blankets, monkey-jackets, shoes, pipes, and tobacco, 
and were set on shore, charged to keep a sharp lookout, and to kill every- 


On Land and Sea. 


271 


thing that approached us. There was more danger to ourselves with that 
old musket than to the wild beasts, or the robbers of the region, and, if at- 
tacked, we resolved to cut and run, and let the cueros be scattered all over 
the district. 

It was just dusk when we reached the Cave, and discovered two Indians 
unloading a cart. There were fifty hides, as we counted, and, as soon as 
our tally was found to agree with the natives’, for they had a paper with the 
number on, they punched up their oxen, and went off in a hurry, as though 
they did not like the place, and the road they were to travel, in the evening. 
The hides came from the ranche of a Captain Dana, a Massachusetts man, 
who had married and settled in the country, and appeared to like it. At 
least I heard him tell Captain Peterson that such was the case, one day on 
board. 

We built a house of the hides, and by the time our work was finished it 
was dark, We started a fire to keep the bears at a respectful distance, and 
then sat and smoked, and listened to the weird, strange noises that seemed 
to spring up on all sides, and which we imagined were caused by wild 
beasts, but nothing more formidable than coyotes made their appearance, 
and they were so cowardly that we cared nothing for them, as we had got 
accustomed to their habits, and knew they would not attack a man unless 
he was dead, or disabled. But those brutes at San Luis were very ac- 
tive, and made noise enough for a pack of wolves. They would steal close 
to our fire, and sit on their haunches, and look at us in wondering surprise, 
and yelp their disgust, and then trot off to report progress to the main 
gang. Then others would come in sight, and repeat the tactics of the first. 
They smelled the hides, and wanted to lick the inner part of them, where 
there were little pieces of dried meat and fat. If we had possessed plenty 
of powder and buck-shot we could have killed a dozen of the noisy nui- 
sances, but, as we had only one charge, we preferred to save it for a more 
formidable enemy, if one should make its appearance. 

About eight o’clock we heard the rapid galloping of a horse, and, not 
knowing who was coming, we cocked the old musket, and awaited events, 
none too confident in our ability to repel an attack of ladrones. 

“Who comes?” we shouted, as the horse was checked "in its rapid 
movements, and walked toward our fire, and, by the aid of the flames, we 
could see the dark face and figure of a ranchero. 

“ Amigo,” was the answer, and the man dismounted, and tip-toed toward 
us, as he could not walk, on account of his immense spurs, buckled to his 
heels, and trailing on the ground. 


272 


On Land and Sea. 


We found that he belonged to a neighboring ranche, and, while on the 
way to a fandango, had been attracted by our fire, and came to see what it 
meant. He was a young, good-natured fellow, and made happy by a pres- 
est of a piece of tobacco. He smoked quite a number of cigarettes, and 
told us all about that portion of the country, and how easily cattle could be 
raised in the valleys, back of the mountains, where there was plenty of wa- 
ter, and rich grass. He said he was going to a dance, at a ranche about a 
mile from us, and also that all the pretty girls of San Luis were to be 
there. 

This information was enough to set Lewey wild, and he insisted that we 
should go with the Mexican to the fandango, without a moment’s delay. 

“ But the hides, Lewey,” I suggested. “ Some one might steal them.” 

“Den ve ’ll say dat de bears took dem, and drove us avay. You leaves 
all to me,” was that bad boy’s answer, confident and bold as usual. 

But I was nnt convinced that it was right and proper to desert our 
charge, until the lad brought up an unanswerable argument. 

“ I dink,” he said, “ dat ve shall see Anita and Engracia dare. Dey 
dance; dey go to de fandango. Ve see dem, dey see us. Ve hab a nice 
time, and come back in de mornin’. Youvillgo? No one vill know dat 
ve is dar. Ah, vot a nice time ve vill hab.” 

“ Yes, confound the hides. If they are stolen let the agent take the 
worth out of our wages. We will go, and carry the old musket with us,” I 
cried. 

Lewey uttered a yell of joy, which so astonished a watching coyote, that 
he tumbled over backward, and then put his tail between his legs, and 
sought safety in flight, followed by many timid companions. 

The ranchero was delighted to know' that w r e would accompany him, and 
offered to let us ride his horse. That we did not desire to do, so he 
walked the animal all the way, and a dark and lonely trail we found it. 
But at length we came to an adobe house, and a dozen or twenty horses 
picketed around it, and heard the twanging of a guitar, and the strumming 
of a harp. Lights flashed from the open door, and windows, and we saw a 
dozen or more bearded men, and some very pretty dark-eyed women, as- 
sembled in a room with a mud floor, beaten hard as brick by constant use, 
and bare feet. 

We concealed our old musket, and entered the house, and were formally 
introduced to the company present, by our guide, as “ Muchacho marineros 
y muy bueno,” and the men were very polite, and the ladies seemed dis- 
posed to smile on us. At first they appeared to think that we had desert- 


On Land and Sea . 


273 


ed from the ship in the bay, but, when it was explained that we were on 
shore for the purpose of watching hides, the men seemed to redouble their 
attentions to us, and the ladies smiled sweeter than ever. I mentally 
thought the property that had been left in our charge would never see the 
hold of the Admittance, for some of the Caballeros soon disappeared, and 
did not return for over an hour, but no one commented on their absence. 

However, we banished all care, and sat and watched the ladies and gen- 
tlemen dance a fandango, and they went through the motions very graceful- 
ly, and, just as a waltz was started, who should enter the house, unattended, 
but our young friends Anita and Engracia, looking as beautiful as ever, and 
very much surprised to see us there, and as pleased as we were at the 
meeting. The girls yielded willingly to a request for a waltz, and, to the 
amazement of all present, we had a very nice dance, for it was something 
of a novelty to see an American do anything at a fandango but jump up and 
around, and knock his heels together, in the old plantation style of cutting a 
pigeon wing, or a break-down. The few old women who were present ap- 
plauded us by clapping their hands, and uttering droning cries of approval, 
and the men all suspended their waltzing to witness that of the boys, and 
did not appear to be jealous that we had two of the best and handsomest 
partners in the room. 

The girls said that they were with an uncle, who had a cattle ranche a 
short distance from the adobe house, and that they should return home in 
the course of a month or two, so that the next time we stopped at Refugio 
we would be able to see them. 

After the dance, as the room was warm, we wandered out-of-doors, and 
had a long talk before the next waltz called us to the floor, so we danced, 
walked, talked, and made love, until the first streak of daylight. Then we 
kissed the girls a fond good-by, and swore undying affection, and that we 
would never leave the coast, but remain, and marry them. We were en- 
tirely sincere in all that we said. We meant to do anything for their sake, 
even to becoming naturalized Mexicans, and good Catholics. 

But we had to part, for we feared that daylight would find us absent from 
the Cave, and that a boat might come on shore for the hides. We did rot 
feel joyful as we trudged back, guided by the young ranchero, and were a 
little disappointed to find that only half the hides we had left the night be- 
fore had been stolen during our absence. Nevertheless, there were four co- 
yotes licking the skins, and Lewey brought the old musket up, and killed 
one, and the rest took to their heels. The recoil of the gun nearly dislo- 
cated the lad’s shoulder, and it was black and blue for a week. Our guide 


274 


On Land and Sea. 


saluted us with a “ Adios, amigos,” and galloped home, and I have often 
wondered if he was concerned in the robbery, and if it was a skillfully con- 
trived plan to get us out of the way, so as to capture the hides, and why 
they did not take all of them was ever a mystery, unless conscience stepped 
in, but who ever knew a California Mexican, of the poorer class, to have 
such an article, when he was determined to evade the duties of the custom 
house, or to steal from foreigners, and his own people ? 

However, twenty-five of our hides had disappeared, and we had only a 
dead coyote to show for them, and when I intimated to Lewey that we 
should catch it, he only smiled in a cool and exasperating manner, and 
said, — 

“You see. I tell de yarn, and do you swear it all true. Vatch me take 
de coyote, and drag him all round here. Blood ebery vere. Von big bear 
come for us. Ve shoot him, den ve run, and bear chase us. Ve climb 
tree ; all night dar. Hit de bear hard. See de blood. Smash de old gun 
over his head,” and, with the words, the bad boy banged the musket on the 
rocks, and broke the stock in a dozen pieces, and beat the barrel all out of 
shape. Ah, what impudence that boy had. He could tell lies so naturally 
that people would believe him, yet suspect that he was lying all the time. I 
have often wondered why the French government never placed him face to 
face with Bismarck. If the admiral has not forgotten his boyish talent, 
there would be a lively scene between the two, and it is doubtful which 
would excel in fiction. 

I was amazed at the lad’s audacity, and the fertility of his resources, and 
wondered how he would end his career if he kept on as he had begun. 
There seemed no other resource if we would escape punishment, and very 
reluctantly I agreed to his proposition. We squeezed the blood all out of 
the coyote, and made some tracks that no one would know what they were 
like, and cleared a place in the dust, as though a terrible struggle had 
taken place, selected the tree on which we were supposed to have passed 
the night, and then sat down, and awaited developments. 

Just before sunrise we saw the pinnace put off from the ship, and pull for 
the shore, and soon we had the third mate at the Cave, and asking how we 
had passed the night, 

At first we could only groan, and point to the blood, the broken musket, 
and the place where the supposed struggle had occurred, and appeared a 
little demented by fright. 

“ What in thunder is the matter with you boys ? ” demanded Mr. Good- 
hue, as he looked at our pale faces, and haggard eyes, for we had not slept 


On Land and Sea. 


275 


a wink all night, having something better to do, for it was not often we 
could get a chance to attend a fandango. 

“ Oh, sir,” cried Lewey, “ ve has been killed almost, and not for all de 
hides in California stay here vould ve agin. De bar ! de bar ! oh, de bad 
bar ! He nearly eat us up. You see. Ve fire von shot at him, and den 
he come for us, and ve smash de gun on his head, and ve run, and he run 
arter us, and ve take to a tree, and stay dar all night, and ven ve offer to 
come down, oh, much he growl, and now de hides gone, and also de bar, de 
cause of all. Vot shall ve do? Vot shall ve tell de old man ? ” 

“ By Jove,” said the third mate, “if you boys have had a fight with a 
bear, and got out of it alive, you deserve credit for your pluck. I never sus- 
pected that you had so much. Blast the hides ! What are hides compared 
to your lives ? ” 

“ Yes, but de great disgrace. Ve is sent to votch de hides, and ve no 
vatch dem. De bar do all de vatchin’. Ah, if ve had de powder, and de 
ball, ve kill him sure,” and Lewey rubbed his eyes, to keep them open, and 
make them look red with apprehension. 

“ Never mind the hides, boys,” the third mate said. “ You have escaped, 
and that is good enough luck for all of us. It is a dangerous place for two 
lads to be sent. I should n’t like it myself, I know, with nothing but an 
old musket. The captain will overlook it, I am sure.” 

“ But de disgrace,” moaned Lewey, and, after he had been comforted a 
little more, so as not to overact the thing, we fell to, and threw the 
hides down the rocky cliff to the boat, and pulled on board. 

The captain was on the quarter-deck when we went over the side. He 
did not look very amiable, but asked how we had passed the night, and then 
Lewey related the particulars of the desperate affair, and how we had been 
driven from our place of trust by the persistent attacks of the ferocious 
bear, and that, while we were up a tree, some one had stolen the hides, 
much to our regret. 

The captain was inclined to be a little indignant, but when Mr. Goodhue 
stated that blood was scattered all around the Cave, and that a terrible 
struggle had certainly taken place, he began to think that he had done a 
wrong thing in exposing two such innocents to so much danger. He told 
us to get our breakfast, and turn in, and rest until noon, which we were glad 
enough to do, and we slept nicely, and did not feel like waking up even 
when eight bells were struck, and dinner was ready. 

We feared some of the people who were at the fandango would expose 
us, and that very afternoon three women appeared on the beach, and signal- 


276 


On Land and Sea . 


ed that they were ready to look over our stock in trade. We were sent to 
take them off, and two of the visitors were persons we had seen at the par- 
ty. They smiled a pleasant greeting, and one cf them, a fat and good-look- 
ing girl, weighing about one hundred and sixty pounds, was disposed to be 
talkative, but we begged her and her companion not to betray us, and they 
said that they would not. It is quite probable some of the brothers or fa- 
thers of the girls had a share in the hides, and the women were about to 
purchase goods with the plunder. 

I let Lewey carry the fat girl to the boat, so as to encourage him to be as 
good as possible, and, as the tide was flood, he did not have to walk a great 
way. The other two, not weighing quite so much, I looked after. When 
they were landed in the stern-sheets, we pushed off, and had a jolly time 
with the girls, while going to the ship, for they were not rich enough to be 
dignified, cold, and distant to us. We were rather sorry when we arrived 
alongside, and saw them whipped over the rail to the deck. But that after- 
noon, when they wanted to return to the shore, something prompted the 
old man to take his place in the boat, and so all of our fun was gone, for we 
had to look as sedate as deacons, and the girls never smiled on us. They 
had bought a paper of pins, a pair of slippers, and priced some silks, but 
did not buy the latter, as their means would not afford it. When we reached 
the beach the tide was low, and we had to wade thirty or forty fathoms to 
get to dry land. We pulled the boat over the shoals as far as we could, 
and then the captain said, as though he was conferring a favor, — 

“ Here, Thom, you take de fat one in your arms, and carry her to dry 
land, and don’t let her fall.” 

“ I thought that Lewey, sir, would ” — 

“Never you mind Lewey, but does as I tells you,” was the stern com- 
mand, and the French lad had to turn his head to conceal his laughter, for 
he did not relish the job that was forced on me, much against my inclina- 
tion. 

I took the girl in my arms, and started, but what can a boy do with a 
hundred-and-sixty-pound woman? and a captain continually shouting, — 

“ Don t you drop her, Thom. If you does you vill be sorry for it, now 
mincLvot I tells you.” 

For the first few fathoms I did very well, for I was fresh and strong, but 
the soft sand and water began to tell on my muscles, and I could feel the 
girl slipping through mv arms, and her dress, a scant one at all times, 
arose as the form descended, and still the old man yelled out, — 

“ Don,t >’ ou drop her, Thom. Stick to her,” and Lewey was lying in the 


On Land and Sea. 


2 77 


bottom of the boat in convulsions. He was never of any assistance to a 
person in such distress as I was enduring at the time. 

At last we reached the hard, dry sand, and then, when I dropped her, al- 
most exhausted, and said “ Muy bueno,” just to encourage her, if she did 
n’t raise one of her dark, hard hands, and hit me a resounding whack on 
my cheek, and she blushed, giggled, and finally got out of sight with all 
the agility of a deer, and, while I sank on the sand, tired and discouraged 
at my efforts to do good, be polite, and rub my face at the same time, if 
the captain did n’t roar out, — 

“ De next time you lugs a voman ashore you does it a little more careful- 
ly, or I ’ll overhaul you ven ve gets on board,” just as though I could carry 
a ton weight half a mile, and I wondered why he did not take her himself. 
He was three times as large as I, and ten times as strong. But he seemed 
to have no fancy for such kind of jobs. We poor boys had to do them, and 
they were not always agreeable, especially when overweighted, and the 
sand was soft, and the lady’s flesh solid, and the clothing none too abun- 
dant for an afternoon call. I did not object to the young and slight female 
form, but drew the line all over a hundred and twenty-five pounds. 

At San Luis we filled every water cask in the ship, for there was a small 
stream that entered the bay, and we could run the pinnace in, loaded with 
gang-barrels, and fill them without trouble. It was while we were here that 
Charley, the Dane, was discharged, set on shore with bag and baggage, 
much to the delight of crew and officers. He had been sent to the landing 
in charge of one of the quarter-boats, for hides', and managed to get on the 
rocks, and stave a plank in the bottom of the gig, and, as it was done 
through carelessness, the captain got hopping mad, and gave the man his 
discharge, which Charley had desired for some time, as his usefulness was 
gone on the ship. We pulled him to the shore, landed him and his dun- 
nage on the beach, and, when we were all ready to put off for the ship, the 
fellow came forward, and offered to shake hands with us, but we remember- 
ed his bullying ways in the early part of the voyage, and the manner in 
which he had snubbed us, and every lad in the boat turned his back, and 
refused to bid him good by. It was a cruel thing to do, but boys on ship- 
board carry their animosities to an unreasonable extent, when they have 
the chance, and we were but human, and did not love the man, for he was 
not a good shipmate, or an amiable one. A bully by nature, and a disturb- 
er of harmony, by reason of his better education than the rest of the men 
in the forecastle. 

The same day that the Dane was set on shore, the brig Juan Jose ar. 


On Land and Sea. 


278 


rived from Santa Barbara. She was under the Mexican flag, and had 
twelve men in the forecastle, Spanish, Kanakas, and Englishmen, and all 
complained that they were short-handed, and needed more able seamen, 
when they had enough to handle the Admittance, if properly disciplined. 

We left the brig in port, picking up a few hides, some of them probably 
stolen from us, and beat up the coast, under a stiff northeast breeze, and 
part of the time so foggy that we could not see the end of our flying-jib- 
boom. Luckily vessels were scarce on the coast, so there was no danger of 
a collision. We crowded sail, and made short tacks, so as to take advan- 
tage of the land breeze at night, but the passage was a long, tedious 
one, with rain, and drizzle, often hearing the roaring of the surf on the 
beaches and rocks, which we could not see, with the hand-lead constantly 
going, giving us warning of danger, and when, on the eighteenth day of 
August, we saw the Point of Pines, one pleasant morning, ran in, and an- 
chored, opposite the fort, at Monterey, being five days from San Luis, 
every one uttered a sigh of relief, and mentally swore at the coast, and the 
fog. The only vessel in port was the little, fast-sailing bark Gipsquanna, 
flying the Mexican flag, and after hides and tallow, like the rest of us. She 
was loaded with something that would sell quite readily on the coast, — au- 
guardiente. For this there was always a lively demand among the Indians, 
soldiers, half-breeds, and American trappers, men who came over the moun- 
tains, and remained in the towns until they had exhausted their funds, and 
then returned to the wilderness for a fresh stock of furs. 

A few days after we dropped anchor, the man-of war schooner California 
arrived, with a cargo of sea-sick Mexican soldiers, the most wretched ob- 
jects that ever suffered on salt water. Captain Cooper had picked them up 
on the coast somewhere, and drifted with them into Monterey. It was 
feared by General Castro that if he marched the men to the town by land 
they would all desert on the journey, and, like the prudent soldier that he 
was, put the least reliable of his ragged-looking army on a vessel, where 
they could not run away, and if they were drowned he did not care much, 
as then there would be no clamoring for back pay. 

The warriors were landed, and could hardly stand on their feet they were 
so weak and ill, and when the officer who had the mob in charge on the 
beach, endeavored to get them in line, they bulged out in all directions (not 
their bodies, but the formation), with here and there a break of a few paces. 
After an order was given to shoulder arms, or some such military command, 
two or three fell down, and could only be induced to start up by the aid of 
vigorous ki-cks, and well-directed blows of a rattan. 


On Land and Sea . 


2/9 


A long time was spent in getting the fellows to wheel into sections of 
fours, and march to the fort, followed by all the naked children in the town, 
and the sober Indians, those who did not fear being impressed, and com- 
pelled to serve in the army without pay, and a sparse amount of food. 

The brig Catalina, from South America, also arrived, while we were in 
port, with more auguardiente, and the natives went wild with joy as they 
thought there would be a little competition, and the price of liquor drop, 
but Old Cook, who was still alive, and with nose redder than ever, swore 
that he was a bull in the market, as far as selling was concerned, and a 
bear when he wanted to buy, kept the size of his glasses the same, and 
charged a real a drink as usual. Every one growled, but paid the price, and 
then blanked Cook to his face, for being a cheat and swindler. The old 
fellow would blank back, and then rake in the money all the same. 

As there were quite a number of hides at Santa Cruz awaiting our arri- 
val, we up anchor, and beat over, but found the surf so high that we did not 
dare to land, although we could see Captain Graham on the beach waiting 
for us. He had a pile of hides with him which we were anxious to secure, 
as we feared some other vessel might get them, and it was not until the 
next day th^ surf subsided, and we were enabled to capture the lot. 

I had a chance to run up to the town, and stopped a few minutes at the 
Mission to exchange some words with the gentle old priest, to pick a num- 
ber of figs in his garden, and to receive a grin of welcome from his house- 
keeper. There was the usual dullness, the same sleepy population, naked 
Indians rolling in the dust, and the old women examining the heads of 
children, with that minute inspection which was very suggestive to those 
who know for what fine combs were invented. 

When we had got all the hides on board that we could obtain, we up an- 
chor, and went back to Monterey, and then found that a new governor 
had arrived from Mexico, — Senor Micheltoreno, — and there was great re- 
joicing, although for what cause no one knew, as it was understood that he 
came to California to make his fortune, and there were reasons to suppose 
that he would be successful unless a new revolution broke out. The Mex- 
icans were patriotic, and gave the new-comer a good lift, by getting up fetes. 
The presidio indulged in a salute of twenty-one guns, and we hoisted the 
Mexican flag at the fore, and fired seven, just as a compliment. Where the 
fort obtained the powder no one ever knew, but all went off with much 
spirit, and so did the rammer of one of the presidio’s guns, which the sol- 
diers forgot to remove. It whistled over our ship, and landed on the 
beach, and ploughed up the sand for five fathoms. We only wondered that 


280 


On Land and Sea. 


a round shot had not been discharged as well as the rammer. The captain 
swore that if more salutes were fired he would move the position of the 
ship, or go to sea, and not remain in front of the fort, and be again exposed 
to so much danger. 

While the salutes were going on the whaling ship Magnolia, Captain 
Simmons, arrived. She belonged to New Bedford, had about a thousand 
barrels of sperm oil on board, and put into port for refreshments and water. 
The master thought at first the firing was all on account of his vessel, and 
he would have returned the salute if he had owned any guns. Captain 
Simmons was a thin, tall, dark man, pleasant and chatty. He afterward es- 
tablished a house at San Francisco,' under the name of Simmons, Hutch- 
inson & Co., and did an immense business in the years 1849 an< ^ ’ 5 °» deal- 
ing in lumber, and everything that could be turned into money. I think the 
firm went to pieces during some money panicon the coast, after the town 
became a city. 

While in Montery Captains Peterson and Simmons were as thick as two 
messmates, and together night and day. They entered into the spirit of the 
festivities with a zest that did them credit, and caused us boys to blank 
California, and all kinds of captains, for we had to remain on the beach 
sometimes until eleven and twelve o’clock at night, to carry them on board 
the ; r respective ships, while the blubber-hunters had none of that kind of 
boaiing, but slept all day, and all night, and looked greasy and discouraged, 
with their heavy sea-boots, and thick clothing, although the weather was 
warm, and our crew were barefooted. 

During the festivities there was given a grand ball, and the very day of 
its occurrence the captain and Mr. Prentice had a few words, and the mate 
was put off duty, and told to do no more work. We all regretted this, but 
there was no help for it, and we could only wait until the captain’s anger 
was exhausted. It had one good effect, however, as it secured for Lewey 
a chance to exhibit his wonderful legerdemain in the presence of the dlite 
of Monterey. Had the mate been on duty he would have quietly advised 
against it, for certain reasons of his own, or on the ground that he knew the 
French boy, and his antecedents, better than the captain. When he learned 
that Lewey was to give an exhibition on shore, he merely laughed, shrug- 
ged his shoulders, lighted a cigar, and simply said, — 

“ I ’d give five silver dollars to see it,” which was a large sum, and show- 
ed how expert my friend was in spinning plates, keeping wooden balls in 
motion, and making handkerchiefs disappear. 

The fact was, Captain Peterson wanted to make himself solid with the 


On Land and Sea. 


281 


new government, and, in an innocent manner, conduce to the general 
pleasure of the public. Also to show that he had the smartest crew of 
boys that were ever on the coast. It was a laudable ambition, and did him 
credit, and the evening’s exhibition was afterward spoken of in the town as 
the most wonderful performance ever seen in Monterey, or in Califor- 
nia. 

The captain proposed to the committee in charge of the entertainment, 
Mexicans and Americans, that the preface to the ball should consist of 
some sleight of hand exhibition, just to set the ladies wondering, and after 
that the real fandango was to begin, and kept up until morning. The new 
governor said that he imagined it would be a good thing, if there was noth- 
ing supernatural in the proceedings, and the saints and priests would not 
be offended. The latter (they could not commun : cate with the former very 
readily) thought that a little holy water would remove any traces of the evil 
one. All the senoritas were near crazy to see anything just a little naughty, 
while the married women said that they could endure most anything in this 
world after living with a Mexican a few years, and remain alive. 

So it was all arranged quite pleasantly by the committee, and Lewey was 
consulted, and ordered to get himself ready, but there was not a word said 
about the ball, or the feast. He was to be all 'through with his performance 
by nine o'clock, and then return on board without delay, and not a mouth- 
ful to eat for all his trouble, or a dance to reward him for his skill, or a dol- 
lar to put in his pockets. 

No wonder the blood of France boiled in his veins, and he swore that he 
would not do it to save California from perdition, and all the pretty girls from 
Mexican husbands. 

“ Not if I go as an assistant, Lewey ?” I asked, for I wanted to see the 
show, and the ladies, and I could hope to do neither unless I displayed a 
little impudence in bringing the thing about. 

“ Vill you go ? ” the French lad demanded, a new light breaking in on his 
mind. 

“ Certainly, and glad of the chance. Have n’t I helped you several 
times ? and don’t I know all your tricks ?” 

“ Yes, by gar. I fix ’em. I tell de old man no can do dings unless you 
help. Dat all right. I go now.” 

He went up the steerage steps like a cat, and found the captain walkin 
the deck. 

“ Dare is von little ding dat I did not dink of, sir,” Lewey said. “ I mu 
hab vot you call assistance. I vill not do dings all alone. I canV’ 


282 


On Land and Sea. 


“ Veil, take some von to help you,” the old man said. “ I don’t care vho 
it is.” 

“ Yes, sir, I take Thom. He do bery veil.” 

The captain appeared a little startled at the proposition. It was a bold 
and novel one. He looked slightly suspicious, and then asked, — 

“ Von’t Davy do ? ” 

“Davy?” cried Lewey, in pretended scorn. “He vill break all de 
plates. He is stupid. He vill not hand me de right dings, at de right 
time. I cannot do de booful tricks vid Davy.” 

“ Veil, let Thom go vid you. But mind, no jokes. I ’ll skin you alive if 
you play any pranks.” 

“ Oh, ve vould not dink of such dings,” Lewey said with an injured air, 
which so well became him. 

We were excused from all duty for the day, in order to get ready. We 
practiced with plates, obtained from the cabin, with wooden balls, sticks, 
and pocket-handkerchiefs, carrying on our operations between decks, and 
had quite a success, but, during a lull, I incidentally mentioned that the 
Mexicans were very fond of fire-works, and that, at all entertainments, it 
was considered the very height of honor to explode some, and that to sur- 
prise and delight our audience nothing could be more appropriate for the 
occasion. 

“ I gib ’em a bunch of fire-crackers,” Lewey said, in a reflecting tone. 

“ Yes, that would be very inspiring, and please them greatly,” I remark- 
ed quite carelessly ; “ but they are much more accustomed to seeing some- 
thing like a set piece, one that has life and vigor in it. That would delight 
them. They would go wild with joy, and perhaps give us a bit of supper.” 

“ Yes. but vot can I gib ’em? ” Lewey pleaded, in a reflecting tone. 

“If you had powder do you think that you could make a fiery serpent ? 
One that would fly around the room, and sparkle and hiss ? Oh, how pleased 
they would be. It might remind them of the city of Mexico, where they 
have fire-works every evening, and such grand ones.” 

“ Could I make von serpent ? ” repeated Lewey. “ Veil, I should dink I 
could, but I has not de powder. Ah, vid de powder I makes von lovely 
snake. He go all over de room, and hiss like real serpent.” 

“I can obtain the powder,” I said, after a moment’s reflection. “Wait 
here, and I ’ll see what I can do for you.” 

I went on deck, walked aft, and looked in one of the cabin windows, close 
to which the captain kept his rifle and powder flask. No one was near. 
The old man was on board the Magnolia, gamming with whaleman Simmons. 


O/i Land and Sea. 


283 


I reached in, and secured the flask, and carried it to Lewev. He poured 
out the powder in a tin pan, and said that there would be enough, with 
some charcoal, and saltpetre, which he could easily obtain. Then he went 
to work, and bent his whole mind on the manufacture of a novel species 
of fire-works, such as was to delight the Mexicans, and, at the same time, 
surprise them. I think it did surprise them. I have a distinct recollection 
of the fact. Even to this hour I can remember that great specimen of the 
F rench lad’s skill, and how moved the audience were when they saw it 
flying around the room. 

All that day the steward and the doctor had been at work baking pies for 
the feast on shore. The captain was anxious to contribute a Yankee dish 
for the entertainment of the governor, and the invited guests, and he had 
hit upon mince pies as being the greatest novelty that he could supply. 
Apples were plentiful enough, and we got a gallon of hard cider from the 
shore, and there were brandy and raisins on board, so that the ingredients 
were all at hand, as we had two quarters of fresh beef hanging near the 
foremast, and suet in abundance. 

It was near two o’clock in the afternoon when the doctor took the pies 
from the ovbn, and placed them on the galley to cool. Oh, how nice they 
did smell. The odor was wafted aft, and seemed to pervade every part of 
the ship. Even Lewey raised his head, while manufacturing the serpent, 
and said, as he sniffed, — 

“ Ah, dat is good. Vot is dat smells so nice ? ” and, when I told him, in 
a careless sort of way, as though it was no concern of mine, that half a doz- 
en mince pies were on top of the galley, and were intended for the Mexi- 
cans, I could detect a look of regret on his frank, handsome face. Then 
he sighed, and said, — 

“ Ah, if ve boys could hab von,” and then he put aside the wicked 
thoughts that were in his mind, and went on with his feu d'artifice, as he 
called his fire-works in French. 

Just then Tom came down in the steerage, to see what progress we were 
making, and to express regrets that he could not go to the ball, and see the 
fun, in the evening. He had just pulled the old man on board, and all at 
once the perfume of those pies arrested his attention. 

“ By jimminy, what is that I smell ? ” he asked, and sniffed the air very 
hard. 

“Mince pies on top of the galley. They are for the Mexicans’ banquet 
tonight,” I replied, and Lewey groaned, and put a little more saltpetre in 
his snake, with a spiteful movement, as though he would have the Mexi- 


28 4 


On Land and Sea. 


cans admire his skill in defiance of their being accustomed to fire-works all 
their lives. 

Tom went up the steps like an eager boy who expects a Christmas pres- 
ent, and a nice dinner, on the same day, walked forward, and even ascended 
the fore-rigging a few ratlings, so that he could have a good look at the 
dainties from an elevated position. Then he returned to the steerage, and 
said, in a firm tone, as though his mind was made up, — 

“ Some of the men are ashore in the pinnace, after hides; Old Jones and 
Scotch Jack are at the Point of Pines fishing, to give the greasers a variety 
of food ; no one is on deck but Mr. Prentice, and he is off duty. Boys, I 
want two of those pies. Who will help me ? ” 

Lewey laid down his serpent, and looked calm, but determined. He had 
made up his mind to spoil the Egyptians, if such a thing was possible. 
Then all my good qualities came to the surface. I represented that it 
would be wrong to take pies which did not belong to us ; that the captain 
would be angry and grieved if he thought us capable of such a crime, and 
that we had better let the pastry go, for we might be caught, and then we 
should suffer, and not the pies. Let the Mexicans eat them, and welcome. 
We wanted none of them. 

I will give the boys the credit of saying that they listened to me with 
much patience and calmness, but, after I had concluded my warning, and 
said all that a good boy should say on the subject, Lewey remarked, in his 
usual sneering way, — 

“ No help, no pie.” 

“ Not a mouthful,” echoed Tom. 

“ Then I am with you,” I said, quite promptly. “ Let us share alike. 
We will move on the enemy’s works at once. Lewey, go up the forehatch, 
and keep out of sight of the cook and steward. Tom, help me drag an old 
sail under the hatchway, for we must chuck the pies down on it. and we 
don’t v/ant the noise of broken plates. Now then, all ready. Be as quiet 
as possible.” 

We piled the old sail in a desirable position, and stole on deck. Mr. 
Prentice was walking in the waist, smoking a cigar. He saw us dodging 
about the foremast, and stopped his monotonous promenade to see what 
we were up to. We knew he would not tell of our doings, as he was far 
from being on good terms with the agent, or the captain, just then, and, 
beside, was not on duty. The doctor was singing a religious, camp-meet- 
ing song, and the steward and Bill were in the cabin, brushing and laying 
out the old man’s best clothes, those he was to wear that night. A holy 


On Land and Sea. 


285 


calm seemed to pervade the ship. The second mate was in his state-room 
taking a quiet drink, the third mate was in the pinnace, and the captain had 
returned, and was scraping the stiff beard from his chin, so as to fascinate 
the young girls in the evening, and forget, for a while, his home engage- 
ments. 

I boosted Lewey up to a level with the fore part of the galley, and he 
passed along a nice warm pie. Tom seized and pitched it down the fore- 
hatch, on the old sail. A second one followed the . first. Mr. Prentice 
looked on, and laughed, until he was nearly doubled up, as if with pain in 
his chest. 

Then I let Lewey down, and we disappeared between decks, and had 
just time to stow the pastry away in a box, under a lot of hides, so that the 
smell could not be detected, or the odors neutralized, when we heard a yell 
from the doctor, a cry of horror and surprise, and something was said 
about lost pies, thieves, and a rascally shame. Then the steward ran for- 
ward, and the captain came on deck, with a heavy coating of lather on his 
face, and wanted to know what the trouble was, and if the ship was on fire, 
or a mutiny had occurred. 

Lewey put away his serpent, and his face assumed an angelic expres- 
sion, as he said, — 

“ Ve must go on deck, and see vot de row is all about. It von’t do to 
keep still. Dey vill suspect us of taking de dings. Dere is some peoples 
dat is just mean enough to do it.” 

We went on deck in a surprised manner, as though we did not compre- 
hend all that was going on. Mr. Prentice was still smoking, and leaning 
on the rail, looking at the crowds of people in the streets of the town, and 
around Cook’s pulperia. He was the most unconcerned man in the ship, 
but he did roll his black, snapping eyes at us, as we went forward, and 
again glanced at Monterey, as though his whole thoughts were on the land, 
and not with the trouble on ship-board. 

The captain was standing near the galley, and listening to the doctor’s 
explanations. The steward was raving, while Bill had retreated to the 
cabin, to get out of the way of danger. He was a very discreet boy, and 
did not care to mingle in the fray, where hard words were spoken, and 
blows likely to fall, fast and furious. He was a good lad, but had only one 
desire, and that was to get home as soon as possible. 

“ Tell me de von vot did it ? ” the old man roared, and that was just what 
the doctor could not do. 

“ So help me gracious, cap’en, the cook cried, “ I jist take de pies out ob 


2 86 


On Land and Sea. 


de oven, and puts dem on de galley, and den I turns, and dey is gone, sah. 
Now whar did dey go to? dat am de question.” 

The captain glanced over the people who were assembled around the 
galley door, but could not pick out the guilty party, and then he asked the 
steward, — 

“ Are you sure you made six pies ? ” 

“ Yes, sir. Made dem wid my own hands, sir,” as though that was most 
convincing testimony. 

“ Perhaps the doctor grubbed them himself,” Tom suggested, and if a 
look could have killed the boy, the glance which the cook gave him would 
have been fatal. 

Mr. Teschemacher, who was in the trade room, working off odds and ends 
on some rich rancheros, heard the noise and confusion, and, thinking that 
there was a mutiny on board, came on deck, and walked forward to see 
what the row was about. As soon as he learned that pastry was the trouble, 
he turned, and went back to his work, and said not a word. He was a 
wonderful young man for minding his own business. In this respect he 
was a great contrast to Cushing, who was in every one’s mess. 

As Tom spoke the captain acted on the hint. He thought it was worth 
following up. 

“ Are you sure you did not eat dem, cook, and forget all about it ? ” the 
captain asked, in a stern tone. 

“ So’elp me Heaven, sar, I nebber so much as tasted ob ’em,” the doctor 
answered. “ I ’se been cook ob dis ship all de time dat we has been from 
Boston, and I nebber does sich a ding, sah. I tink dat it am dem blasted, 
wicked boys.” 

This was turning the tables with a vengeance, but the captain did not 
seem to take much stock in the accusation, for he looked us all over, and 
there saw only innocence, and a strong feeling of deep indignation on our 
faces. 

“ You should be flogged for being so careless,” the captain said, “and if 
it happens again I ’ll rope’s-end you, as sure as you live. I don’t believe 
de boys takes de pies. Dey has enough to eat vidout stealin,” and he 
walked aft, but stopped a moment to speak to Mr. Prentice, and ask him if 
he had seen any one prowling around the galley, and I think Mr. Prentice 
said that he had not noticed any one in particular, as he had been engaged 
in watching the people on shore. That short conversation broke the Tee, 
and the mate was told to again resume duty, an explanation made, and 
once more we could hear Mr. Prentice giving orders. While he was down 


On Land and Sea. 


287 


between decks, shortly afterward, he merely remarked to us in a quiet 
tone, — 

“ If you boys steal any more from the galley, and I see you, there will be 
trouble. I sha’n’t say anything this time, but just mind your weather eye. 
That is all."’ 

We knew enough to give him a wide berth when there was a little 
fun going on, but we did show him the serpent, now completed. It was a 
foot and a half long, and as large round as a man’s thumb. We told him 
that it was intended as a surprise to the Mexicans, and he said he thought 
it would answer our purpose, and that every one would be delighted with it, 
which pleased us very much, because we liked to be praised for all of our 
good deeds, but we could not understand why the mate continued to laugh 
so heartily, and say that he should admire to be on hand, but in the back 
seats, out of range of the serpent. 

After supper Lewey and I dressed in our best blue suits, flannel shirts 
and trousers, with nice white cotton stockings, and low shoes, black silk 
handkerchiefs around our necks, and colored ones in our shirt pockets. 
We took particular pains with our costumes, and the old man growled out 
his satisfaction as we assumed our places in the boat, and rowed him and 
Captain Simmons to the landing. 

“ You follows me,” the captain said, and we took our bundles containing 
the paraphernalia of the evening, and trudged along in his wake, and felt a 
little nervous as to our duties, being the first appearance on any stage. All 
amateurs will understand the sensations of facing a strange audience, and, 
perhaps, an unfriendly one. 

We first went to Mr. Larkin’s, where we found quite a number of foreign 
residents, and, after all hands had taken a glass of wine, to which we were 
not invited, for some reason, an adjournment was made to the town hall, a 
large adobe building, used for trials, dances, receptions, and other enter- 
tainments. It was lighted by oil lamps and candles, and all the chairs and 
benches in the village had been carried to the place for the accommodation 
of the visitors. 

If we could have got out of the exhibition business we would have done 
so, but when the captain escorted us to the end of the hall, where there was 
a raised platform, and told us to sit down, we did so, and waited until all the 
people had assembled, and cut off our retreat by the door, and then we 
knew that we had got to go through with the performance, at all hazard, or 
be disgraced forever. 

There was a table on the platform, and on it was arranged the three din- 


2 88 


On Land and Sea . 


ner plates taken from the cabin, some sticks, five wooden balls, a bunch of 
fire-crackers, and the untamed serpent, the latter covered up with a piece 
of sail-cloth, to prevent a spark from a cigarette igniting the powder, and 
exploding the mass before we were ready for action. 

Soon the company came in, the young ladies, and their mothers, the gov- 
ernor and his staff, and a fat priest, who sat near the platform, folded his 
hands across his broad stomach, and then went to sleep, and snored quite 
audibly through most of the performance. However, he woke up later in 
the evening, and was very active. 

The senoritas flirted their fans, giggled, as girls usually do, made eyes at 
the officers, ate a few dulces, to give them an appetite for the coming feast, 
and after the principal persons had taken their seats, and all the windows 
were. opened to ventilate the room, and some Indians had been driven away 
from the door, wide enough to drive an ox-team through, the old women 
yawned, smoked a few cigarettes to keep the men company, and wondered 
what was to come on for their amusement before the feasting began. 

Then the alcalda of Monterey, a solemn-looking -Mexican, got up, and 
said that their new governor was the greatest general since the days of Na- 
poleon, Wellington, Julius Caesar, Mark Antony, Hannibal, George 
Washington, Alexander, and several other heroes, whose names I cannot 
now remember. I have mentioned enough to show that the new ruler over 
California was a great man, and one well worth the appreciation of the peo- 
ple of the State. Then the alcalda stated that all were assembled to do 
honor to such an illustrious gentleman. (Here the governor yawned, and 
lighted a cigarette, and probably wondered what would be his share of the 
spoils for the ensuing year.) To show how much such a warrior was ap- 
preciated all classes of citizens had assembled to do him honor, and pre- 
pared a little entertainment for his amusement, and even the masters of 
vessels in the harbor had contributed toward the fete. (Then Captain 
Peterson actually blushed with pleasure, for the audience looked at him, 
and the girls all nodded their heads and waved their fans.) And now some 
wonderful music would first be performed, and then two nice little sailor 
boys amuse the company with legerdemain. Many of the audience glanced at 
Lewey and me, and the girls smiled on us, and we also blushed, although it 
may not be believed. 

Two harps and three guitars struck up a waltz, and the young girls kept 
time with their little feet, as is usual in all countries where the people love 
dancing, and several old ladies, fat and comfortable-looking, seated at the 
side* of the hall, clapped their hands in an ecstacy of delight, and wished 


On Land and Sea. 


289 


that they were once more young, and capable of attracting the attention of 
the officers and rich foreigners who were present in full force, and admiring 
the girls. 

The holy father vfaked up during the waltz, looked as though he had not 
been asleep, and, after a while, dosed his eyes, and then quietly slumbered 
as before. 

As soon as the musicians had finished there was a whispered consultation 
between the alcalda and a Mexican, who appeared a little hen-pecked, for 
there was a subdued expression on his face, such as some married men 
wear, and after an apparent remonstrance on the part of the chief official of 
the town, the husband got the best of the argument, for the former said, 
much to our relief, — 

“ The Senora Muscatavo has prepared an original poem, in honor of our 
new governor, and will sing it, if no one has any objections.” 

The alcalda waited, in hopes that some one would utter a protest, but, as 
all knew the lady quite well, there was an ominous silence. No one dared 
to say a word in opposition. The governor yawned, and lighted another 
cigarette. He had nerved himself for the task before him, and could endure 
much, even to the lady’s singing. 

Senora Muscatavo advanced to the platform, near where the musicians 
were seated, seized a harp, planted herself in a chair, and then surveyed her 
audience quite calmly. She weighed about two hundred and fifty pounds, 
had a soft, black mustache, a straggling goatee, and an eye that could 
threaten and command. No wonder the people did not dare to refuse to 
hear her sing, or that the husband pleaded in her behalf, after she had sug- 
gested her desire to entertain the company. 

She drew the harp toward her like a stout sailor hauling in the main 
brace, smiled a sad sort of smile at the governor, touched the strings of the 
harp, and then broke out with a startling yell. 

The padre awoke suddenly, visibly shuddered, and once more attempted 
to go to sleep, but could not. He moved a little uneasily in his chair, and 
seemed to be blessing some one, to judge by the motion of his hands, and 
the movement of his lips. 

The song went on to state that there was but one nation in- the world that 
deserved to be a nation, and that was Mexico ; that there was but one man 
in the' country fit to rule over them, and that was the present governor, and 
she called upon the saints to protect him, but I don’t believe they paid any 
attention to her, for his excellency was kicked out of office a few months 
later, by the aid of a revolution, and the saints seemed to help the other fel- 


290 


On Land and Sea. 


low, simply because he had more money to spend for the place, or was more 
pious than the lawful governor. 

She closed with some shrill notes, that set the dogs of the town to bark- 
ing, and several drunken Indians to howling. Captains Peterson and Sim- 
mons applauded very vigorously, but the girls all giggled behind their fans, 
and the old women whispered ill-natured things. However, those who 
feared the tongue of the senora cheered, as a matter of course, anddhe lady 
offered to repeat the dose, but the alcalda cut her out by announcing that 
the marineros would now have a chance with their wonderful performances, 
something never before seen in California, or any other country, and 1 
think he was quite right in his announcement, for no one ever did see the 
like. 

My heart went up into my throat, it appeared to me. I glanced at Lew- 
ey. He seemed calm, and not in the least flurried. He was a wonderful 
boy, and could do more innocent lying in a given time than any lad on the 
ship. I was to introduce him, and had prepared a pretty little speech in 
Spanish. I got up, and all the young ladies waved their fans to encourage 
me. I knew most of those present, and had carried them in my arms to 
the boats several times, through the surf. The old women scowled at me, 
while the men lighted fresh cigarettes, and laughed, as a cheerful method 
of encouraging me to do the best that I could for their entertainment. Many 
knew us by sight, but were ignorant of our great talent, except in ducking 
the people in the surf. 

All at once I was conscious of many bright eyes being directed, not at my 
face, but at my feet. There was a murmur of admiration, of astonishment, 
and some of the young ladies stood up so that they could get a better view 
of the stage. I was embarrassed, and thought that something was wrong 
with my clothes, before or behind. I gave my trousers a hitch, and they 
were all right. I felt of, my shirt, and it was correct, and then I glanced 
down, and saw that the girls were admiring my nice white stockings, and 
low shoes. Women are always ready to appreciate a good costume, and 
these had found something to wonder at in my toilette, for it was not often 
that the ladies were favored with the sight of sailor boys-with neat foot gear, 
and well-fitting shirts and trousers, setting off our slim forms to good advan- 
tage. 

“ Go ahead,” whispered Lewey. “ Don’t stand dar like von fool.” 

He was a very frank boy, and always spoke his mind if there was no dan- 
ger of getting hurt for his impertinence. I gave him a look that caused a 
blush to mantle on his hardened cheek, but it soon passed off, and he was 


On Land and Sea. 


201 


as brazen as ever. However, he smiled, and then motioned for me to drive 
on. 

Thus encouraged, I said, — 

“ Senoras, senoritas, y senors,” and, by Jove, all the rest of the speech 
fled from my mind, and I could not remember a word of Spanish to save my 
life. I could only stare at the upturned faces. 

“ Bueno,” cried the girls, to encourage me, and the men laughed. Even 
the governor and priest grinned, and seemed no longer bored. I tried to 
think of all that I meant to say, but the words would not come. Captain 
Peterson scowled at me, for I was disgracing his ship, and himself, and he 
had formed such a good opinion of my abilities. I heartily wished that I 
was on board of the Admittance once more, and eating the mince pies 
which we had concealed in the forenoon. 

“Ladies and gentlemen,” I said, having to go back to my English, “the 
performance that you are to witness tonight has never been excelled in 
this or any other country.” 

“ No entender,” was the muttered exclamation, all over the hall, meaning 
that they did not understand a word I said. But I continued, regardless of 
the murmurs : — 

“ This lad, my shipmate, will show you some legerdemain such as only 
the princes of Europe ever witnessed, and but a few of those potentates 
have been so favored as you will be this night, it you retain your seats, and 
wait for the final act, to be the most sparkling of all. I am sure you will 
be astonished and delighted.” 

“ Dat is enough,” said Lewey, in a whisper. “ Don’t be a big fool. Let 
up on me.” 

“ No entender,” howled the audience, looking at each other for an expla- 
nation, while Mr. Larkin, his hand to his ear, laughed until he nearly tum- 
bled off his chair, and Mr. Teschemacher, who was present, was so pleased, 
that his face was all aglow with smiles. 

“ I will now present to you Monsieur Lewey, the renowned French ne- 
cromancer,” and then the audience applauded, although they knew not what 
I said, but, seeing the Americans and English laughing, they supposed that 
it was all right to encourage us in an enthusiastic manner, and I will give 
the young girls the credit of saying that they did their full share in cheer- 
ing, for there is something sympathetic in youth, and the little girl whom I 
had kissed, some months before, actually waved her fan at me, as soon as 
she had concluded admiring my shoes and stockings, and flashed her bright 
eyes as an encouragment for me to continue. 


292 


On Land and Sea . 


Then Lewey stepped to the front, and bowed, and the audience cheered 
again, as he took up a plate and stick, and posed for the commencement of 
his great moral exhibition, and how he succeeded I shall have to leave for 
the next chapter, as this one is already long enough, and several pages are 
necessary to do Justice to my friend’s great entertainment for the amuse- 
ment of the Mexicans. 



A ROYAL BATTLE. 


PART ELEVENTH. 

OUR EXHIBITION AT MONTEREY. — A SURPRISED AND DELIGHTED AUDI- 
ENCE. — THE ALCALDA MAKES A SPEECH. — A PREMATURE EXPLO- 
SION. — SOME GRAND AND LOFTY TUMBLING. — A RACE. — SAN LUIS. 
— RANCHE REFUGIO. — SANTA BARBARA. — CATCHING FINBACKS. — SAN 
PEDRO. — LETTERS FROM HOME. — A BEAR HUNT. 

I WAS forced to admire my friend Lewey’s courage, as he advanced to 
the edge of the platform, posed, and commenced his performance'. For 
coolness and cheek he was unsurpassed by any boy of the French nation, 
and, when he laid his hand on a dinner plate, and took up a stick on which 
to balance the former, I wanted to clap my hands, so much was I moved by 
his calmness, his grand air of “content de vous voir ici good people.” 
Had he been a real magician he could not have been more self-possessed. 
His good looking face also impressed the ladies, and his nice, white cotton 
stockings, the third pair that I had given him, were commented on in tones 
that made the old women utter words of reproof for such forwardness on 
the part of the doncellitas. The governor yawned once more, and the pa- 



On Land and Sea. 


294 


dre fell asleep, and snored deep and loud, but no one appeared to notice it, 
for the priest was a jolly old fellow, and a great favorite with Protestants 
as well as Catholics, foreigners and Mexicans, as he was not as strict as 
some of his cloth. 

Lewey tossed a plate in the air, and, as it came down, caught it on a 
stick, and spun it around rapidly. There was a sensation. The old man 
beamed on us with delight, and the alcalda looked the audience full in the 
face, as much as to say, — 

“ You see, my friends, what I do for your amusement. When it comes 
to a re-election don’t forget to deposit your votes for me,” like the mayors 
of some of our Atlantic cities, who are always studying how they can make 
the people happy, and be re-elected at the same time. 

Up again went the plate in the air, and, as it descended, was caught on 
the point' of the stick, still retaining its whirling motion. The applause 
was immense, but, when I handed Lewey a second dish and stick, and he 
kept them both going, there was a shudder all through the audience, and 
some of the old ladies crossed themselves, and wanted the priest waked up, 
so that he could be prepared to save them, in case of necessity, or at least 
keep off the evil spirits, who they thought must aid the boy in his wonder- 
ful exhibition. But the priest slumbered on, and the elderly senoras grew 
more composed. 

Then I handed Lewey a third plate, and he placed a stick on his chin, 
and, with others in each hand, had three dishes revolving at the same time. 
The breathing of the women was painfully audible, and some glanced to- 
ward the door, as if desirous of making their escape, fearing such supernat- 
ural exhibitions were wicked. 

After the plates had been balanced as long as we thought the governor 
would endure it, Lewey took the wooden balls, and manipulated them in a 
satisfactory manner, keeping all in the air at the same time, until they 
formed a complete circle over his head. Liberal applause was the reward 
for this display of science, and the young ladies beamed on the French lad, 
while the old ones swore that he was aided by the devil, and not by the 
saints. 

Then he played with his sticks, and threw them about in various forms, 
and boxed and cuffed them, and at last let them rest, and once more I 
stepped to the front, and said, — 

“ Will some lady and gentleman be kind enough to lend us their handker- 
chiefs?” 

There was an ominous silence. People looked at each other in wonder- 


On Land and Sea. 


295 


ing surprise, and then at me, as though they did not quite comprehend what 
I meant. 

“ Handkerchiefs,” I repeated. “ Dos panuelos.” 

Mr. Teschemacher, who occupied a rear seat, made a motion to draw 
one from his pocket, but thought better of it, and concluded not to help us, 
for which we were very thankful. Captain Peterson for a moment exhibit- 
ed a blood-red bandana, and then wisely held on to it. He feared that he 
would never see it again if it passed from his possession. Captain Sim- 
mons was flirting with a pretty girl, and failed to respond. Mr. Larkin did 
not hear our call, and so took no notice of the appeal. He was calculating 
how much he would have to loan the new governor in the course of a 
month. Not one of the Mexicans moved, or offered to furnish us with the 
necessary articles. There were none in the house, and, perhaps, there was 
no occasion for them, for catarrh is not very prevalent at Monterey, or was 
not when I was last there. The end of a shawl was more convenient, in 
case it was really necessary to touch the lips or nose, to remove a little 
moisture. 

We had expected the result, and come prepared for it. We had cut up a 
couple of old handkerchiefs for the occasion, and brought two just like the 
ones destroyed, so that the trick would seem very wonderful. Then Lewey 
displayed the good articles, and put them in a hat, and shook them up, and 
took out the bad ones, and tore them into small pieces, and, when every 
one supposed that the panuelos were gone forever as useful articles, he 
produced the whole ones, safe, and without a brack or rent in either. The 
timid women crossed themselves, and muttered short prayers, while Cap- 
tains Peterson and Simmons clapped their hands untH they were nearly 
blistered. 

Then the people did applaud, and the old ladies said that the French boy 
was the devil, and wanted the priest to exorcise the evil one, but the padre 
slumbered on unconscious of the danger that threatened his flock, and him- 
self. 

The performance was a very creditable one, and I saw our captain’s face 
glow with pride, as he whispered to the master of the Magnolia, and I im- 
agined that he was telling him what wonderful and good boys he had under 
his command. Our success was indeed surprising, but the reader must re- 
member that legerdemain was a rare thing on the coast of California at 
the time, and Lewey was the first magician that the people who had not 
visited the City of Mexico had ever seen. To be sure, bullocks and horses 
sometimes disappeared from ranches, in a surprising manner, and in broad 


296 


On Land and Sea. 


daylight, but there was no sleight-of-hand science in the process. Vaque- 
ros would drive them off, re-brand them, be all the richer by a few hundred 
head, and the real owner would know nothing of the matter, as sometimes 
he had so many cattle that he would not miss those so mysteriously driven 
off. But this was thieving, and not magic. 

I then stepped forward to announce the conclusion of our entertainment 
and to request all to keep their seats, as there was to be a brilliant display 
of fire-works. This caused an expression of surprise, and one young lady 
waved her fan, in token of her appreciation of our efforts to please the 
audience. 

While I was speaking the harpists began to look after their instruments, 
as though they had a premonition that there was to be trouble ahead, and 
one of the fellows, in his excitement, pitched a half-consumed cigarette on 
the table where the crackers and serpent were reposing, side by side. We 
did not notice the act, as we were looking at the dark, flashing eyes of the 
doncellitas, and admiring them, more than the sudden stirring of the musi- 
cians. 

All at once I heard a sputtering and a whizzing, and, as I turned, saw 
smoke issuing from the bunch of crackers. I started for the table, but 
Lewey whispered, — 

“ Let ’em rip. De more fun for us all. Keep still.” 

Even if I would have interfered there was not time, for a light detonation 
was heard, a fiz, and into the air went the bunch of crackers, and then there 
were yells all over the hall, and women started to their feet, and some one 
cried out, — 

“ Mira ! Fuego ! ” or in English, “ There is fire.” 

Mr. Teschemacher, like a discreet man, left the hall at the first out- 
break. 

Then, to complicate matters as much as possible, the fiery serpent com- 
menced its awful course around the room. The holy father was suddenly 
awakened, and, as he arose to make his escape, the commandante of the 
presidio jumped up, got his long sword entangled between his thin legs, and 
plunged headlong on the priest, striking him on the abdomen, and both 
went to the floor, locked in a firm embrace, and there they struggled, until 
the padre got on top, and almost choked the life out of his tall and lank op- 
ponent. 

Once the serpent sped around the hall, scattering nice little sparks, ex- 
tinguished as soon as they fell, so there was no danger of setting clothes on 
fire, but the panic was awful to contemplate. The alcalda jumped on a 


On Land and Sea. 


297 


chair, to command the peace, but the snake darted toward him, and the of- 
ficial dodged, tumbled off, and rolled under one of the settees, and a fat 
woman stepped on his head, and nearly fractured his skull, and crushed his 
nose all out of shape. The governor supposed that a new revolution had 
broken out in a novel manner, and that he was to be assassinated, so did 
the best thing that he could, ran for the door, to make his escape, but was 
prevented by the crowd, who thronged the entrance. It was in vain that I 
yelled at the top of my voice, — 

“ No hay cudado,” or “ Don’t be alarmed, there is nothing to be feared.” 
Even when I was shouting the loudest, the serpent, like the Frankenstein 
monster, darted toward those who had created it, and came precious near 
our heads, and only by dodging did we escape contact. 

Once more the serpent sailed around the hall, sparkling and bright, and 
as lively as ever. In fact it seemed more frisky as it burned its life away. 
Our captain looked indignant, for some reason I could not understand, and 
seemed inclined to draw near to us, for he shook his fist in our direction, 
but the snake darted at him, and he ducked his head, and then made a dive 
for a window, through which Captain Simmons had already gone, head first, 
a moment before. I saw the old man put his beaver hat on in a determined 
manner, and then follow the lead of the whaling master, and disappear from 
sight. 

The fire-crackers burned out, and filled the hall with smoke, but the ser- 
pent did not rest until the last grain of powder was exhausted, and then it 
expired with a beautiful little explosion, that should have delighted every 
one, for I am sure we worked hard enough to please the people, and make 
them satisfied with our exertions, and even the French boy could not con- 
ceal his exultation and pride, as he said, with an encouraging pat on my 
back, — 

“ Did you ever seed anyding like it in all your life ?” and I was forced to 
confess that I never had, but even in that moment of triumph and pride, I 
had, like some great persons, painful thoughts of the morrow, and what 
was to come of it. 

As the last splutter issued from the serpent, and the remains fell to the 
floor, there were not many people left in the hall. The padre and the com- 
mandante had arisen from their recumbent positions, and escaped. The 
alcalda was rubbing his head and nose, and swearing in the choicest of 
Spanish, and intimating that some people had ought to be punished, so I 
suppose he felt bad because the fat woman stepped on his face, but I don’t 
think she meant to do so. It was impolite if she did it purposely, and I 


On Land and Sea. 


298 


have always thought that she made a mistake, not looking to see where she 
put her feet. 

I did not deem it prudent to remain and ask if a vote of thanks would be 
passed for our exertions. Beside, if the Mexicans were disposed to do 
such an act of justice, the motion could be put and carried just as well 
while we were absent, so I intimated to Lewey that we had better be mov- 
ing toward the beach, and as fast as possible, if we would escape some 
warm remarks and congratulations. 

He seemed to think that the advice was good, and, gathering up the 
plates and balls, we stepped from the platform, and nearly stumbled over 
Mr. Larkin, his hand still at his ear, to hear all that was going on. He only 
said, with a grim smile, — 

“ Well, you boys have raised ” — 

We did not stop to hear the conclusion of his remarks, because we sup- 
posed it was merely to say “ Raised lots of fun,” and, while we felt compli- 
mented, we did not think it good taste to be praised to our faces. It might 
make us vain. 

As we passed out of the door, as quietly as possible, for true merit is al- 
ways modest, some of the old women who obstructed our course growled 
at us, — 

“ Maldito muchacho marineros,” and we thought that there was some 
mistake, for they called us bad, after all our efforts to amuse and instruct 
the people of the town. 

The alcalda came toward us, and said something about arresting two 
boys for disturbing the peace, but we paid no attention to him, as we feared 
that he would detain us for the supper, and we knew the old man would not 
like it if we remained away from the ship over night. Beside, we had rather 
be on board for reasons which we did not care to stop and explain during 
the tumult, and party feeling appeared to be against all foreigners in the 
shape of boys. To be sure, one of the most graceful and beautiful mar- 
ried ladies of the town, Donna Augusta, the eldest slaughter of Don Norie- 
go, of Santa Barbara, and the wife of the administrador of the aduana, or 
custom house, told us to go to her residence, and partake of some refresh- 
ments, but we politely refused on the ground of want of time. She was a 
noble-hearted lady, and had children of her own, so could appreciate our 
hungry condition. She was popular with every one, although she had no 
great love for Yankees, as she called all Americans. I hope she is still 
alive, and has changed her opinion, but fear not, from the treatment of her 
family possessions. 


On Land and Sea. 


299 


Some of the young ladies did not appear to be very much disturbed, and 
one or two smiled on us, while others muttered, — 

“ Pobre muchachos,” possibly thinking of the morrow, and our fate. Our 
thoughts were in the same line. 

We hurried along, and encountered Captains Peterson and Simmons, and 
the former said, in a low, solemn tone, as though he meant more than he 
could express, — 

“ You goes on board, and I ’ll ’tends to you tomorrow.” 

Always tomorrow. How much significance there is in the words, and 
how thoughtless some people are when they speak of it. Alas, tomorrow 
never comes, and hopes and aspirations fail, and happiness is blighted, and 
hearts broken, while waiting for tomorrow. But the master of the Magno- 
lia said, as he slapped our captain on his bpoad back, — 

“ Don’t you trouble those boys, Peterson. It is the best joke that I ever 
enjoyed in my life. I have n’t laughed so much in three years as tonight. 
Lord, to see those Mexicans tumble over each other, and hear the women 
squeal, was as good as a play.” 

But the old man did not seem to see matters in that light, and we went 
toward the beach. As we slipped away in the darkness we could hear the 
twanging of guitars, and the strumming of harps. The ball had already 
commenced, and we sighed, as we thought that we were not to take part in 
it, after all of our labor to make the party an assured success. This was 
gratitude. Ah, well, we were used to such cold, neglectful treatment at the 
hands of our superiors, so stifled our sighs, and thought of the morrow, 
like a celebrated burial party, long since immortalized in eloquent song and 
prose. 

“ I vonder,” said Lewey, as we stopped to listen for a moment, “ if de 
peoples vill eber vant any more of our legerdemain ? And vill dey offer us 
some moneys for vhat ve has done ? If dey does ve vill refuse ’em, and say 
dat dey is velcome to all our services any time dey calls on us. But vill dey 
agin vish for us ? ” 

I thought not, and then we trudged on, and found the boat hauled up on 
the beach, and Tom and Davy looking out for us. As the captain and Mr. 
Teschemacher were to stop on shore all night, there was no need of wait- 
ing for them. We pulled off our nice stockings, rolled up our trousers, and 
floated the boat, and rowed to the ship. 

“ How was the party ? ” asked Tom, as we left the beach, and the bril- 
liantly lighted town. 

“ A great success,” I said. “ Every one was delighted with us. The cap- 


300 


On Land and Sea. 


tain can’t speak he is so pleased. He will probably call us to the quarter- 
deck in the morning, and have something to say on the subject.” 

No more questions were asked, but, when we got alongside, Mr. Pren- 
tice was waiting for us. 

“ How did things go off ? ” he inquired, as I went up the steps, and reached 
the deck. 

“ A trifle prematurely,” was my reply. 

“ How was that ? ’ ’ 

“ Some greaser lighted our fire-works before we were ready, and they 
went off in a hurry. We feel very sorry that our plans were disarranged, 
for the people appeared a little frightened at first, and some of the women 
are still hysterical, the alcalda has a broken nose, the holy padre was 
knocked out of time at the first round, and the captain is growling like a 
bear with the mange, and there is the deuse to pay, and no pitch hot, as we 
sailors say.” 

“ Won’t you catch it tomorrow,” was the consoling remark, and then the 
mate added, “ I ’d like to have been there to see the fun.” 

Again tomorrow. Always tomorrow. We guyed out the boat to the 
boom, and retired to the steerage, in no happy frame of mind. Tomorrow 
was staring us in the face, and, while we did not look forward to it with con- 
fidence, we determined to be as comfortable as possible under the circum- 
stances. We were hungry, the mince pies were safe, and we resolved to 
enjoy them. The rest of the boys were all turned in, and asleep, so it was 
useless waking them up, and asking them to take a portion ; beside, what 
are two mince pies among four hearty lads ? We sent for Davy, for he was 
with us all the time in the boat, and almost a boy, and then found the box 
where we had concealed it, among the dry hides. We could not tell if the 
perfume of the skins had penetrated the pastry, and, if it had, we were not 
fastidious on that point. Our stomachs could endure most anything. 

Davy grinned when the feast was spread before his eyes. He had no 
conscientious scruples on the point of eating that which had been taken un- 
lawfully. We divided fair, and never was supper more enjoyed. Then we 
rolled into our bunks, and slept as only the innocent can sleep who have 
excellent digestions, and full stomachs. 

Next morning we were ordered on shore for the captain. It was after 
breakfast, and we had to wait some time for him to heave in sight at the 
landing. He had danced fandangoes so hard that he and the whaler were 
tired, and did not put in an appearance until near eleven o’clock. But we 
enjoyed ourselves looking over a portion of the town, and being scowled at 


On Land and Sea . 


301 


by the old women. There was to be a bull and bear fight in the afternoon, 
but the latter had got away in some mysterious manner, and the Caballeros 
were out on horseback looking for another oso, as the alcalda had promised 
the citizens they should have a fight, and the people were furious at the 
prospect of being deprived of their favorite pastime. Indeed, there was 
some talk of lynching the mayor, but better counsels prevailed, and he es- 
caped with an ominous warning, that made him more careful in the future. 
You can’t be too cautious in dealing with Mexicans or Spaniards not to 
disappoint them in their little innocent recreations. On this occasion, how- 
ever, the gentlemen did not capture a second bear, and the obliging alcalda 
procured another bull, and so they had a fight after all, but we were not 
permitted to witness it, much as we desired to. 

When the two captains made their appearance, they looked as though 
they were tired. Our old man glanced at us, and simply said, — 

“You thought you did somethin’ cunnin’ last night, did n’t you?” 

“ Oh, let the boys alone,” Captain Simmons remarked. “ You should be 
proud of such smart lads.” 

“ Yes, but you have n’t got to stay on de coast, and beg for hides two or 
three years. Vot if de peoples should refuse to trade with us arter last 
night?” our captain asked. 

“Then mark down your goods if you want trade. Come on board, and 
dine with me, and then we will go on shore, and see the bull-fight,” and we 
pulled the two alongside the Magnolia, and left them there, and that was 
the last we heard of the evening’s entertainment, for Captain Peterson 
never again alluded to it while we were in the harbor of Monterey, or any 
other part of the coast. I think that even the alcalda got over his loss of 
dignity, when he found that the young ladies rather liked the excitement of 
the evening. But that might have been because they had all the dancing 
they could endure for one night, a rare thing for a Mexican girl in those 
days, when good waltzers were scarce. 

I believe the new governor was inclined to grumble a little, but a nice 
dinner on board, with the aid of a few bottles of cheap champagne, settled 
his case, and he said that it was not so bad a joke as it might have been. 
What he thought of the wine I never heard, or how he managed to cure his 
headache the next day. 

After all the fetes had been given, and no one seemed inclined to buy 
more goods, or to bring down hides, we got under way at the same time as 
the Magnolia, Captain Simmons being anxious to test the sailing qualities 
of his ship with the Admittance. Although the whaler had two men to our 


302 


On Land and Sea. 


one, yet we beat her all out of sight in tripping anchor, and getting canvas 
on the vessel. We stood out of the bay, but just off the Point of Pines the 
Mexican bark Clarita hove in sight, and we backed our maintopsail, and 
sent a boat on board, to see if she had any letters for us, and if the owner 
would exchange hides for tallow. But we got neither hides nor letters, and, 
by the time we had returned to the ship, and been hoisted up, the Magnolia 
was outside of the harbor, hove to, and waiting torus to come along, and 
begin the race. 

The challenge was promptly accepted. We braced forward, boarded 
tacks and sheets, took an extra pull at the braces, sent Chips to the wheel, 
and stood after the whaler. There was a light breeze from the northerd and 
eastward, just enough to ruffle the water, but there was considerable swell 
on, and we plunged into the heaving sea as though we were making nine 
knots an hour, instead of four. But the wind freshened, as we drew away 
from the Point of Pines, and New Year’s Point, on the other side of the 
bay, and then we began to move, the ship to jump, and the spray to fly over 
the rail. By eleven o’clock we had all the breeze we wanted, but still kept 
the royals set. We poked the old lady’s nose in the wind’s eye, and in an 
hour’s time were a quarter of a mile to the nortljerd of the whaler, and 
in an hour more we were leading so much that we edged away, and run 
down the land, as we were bound to San Luis Obispo, and the Magnolia to 
some sperm- whaling grounds, and that was the last we ever saw of the 
New-Bedford ship, but Captain Simmons I often met in San Francisco in 
1849, when his house did a large business, and was reported quite wealthy 
at one time. 

Our passage down the coast was one of vexation and cautiousness. A 
thick fog set in, a drizzling rain made us uncomfortable, and the wind was 
baffling and uncertain. We could hear the surf in the night, raging and 
breaking on the rocks, and every puff of air that came from the land we 
improved to work off from our dangerous position, as the current was un- 
certain, and we did not know whether it was for or against us. The cap- 
tain knew the exact state of the tides, but there were eddies and other in- 
fluences at work just enough to keep all hands ready to spring on deck at a 
moment’s call, and let go the anchor in case we got too near a lee shore. 

The left bower was all ready to be dropped at a second’s notice, but 
there was no occasion for it. We were enabled to fan our way along all 
right, and in the morning we saw a noted land-mark called “ White Rock,” 
about half way between Monterey and San Luis. The sun rose clear and 
pleasant, and a light breeze from the westward helped us on our way, but 


On Land and Sea . 


303 


again the fog stole down upon us, and once more we clawed off shore, and 
passed another night of wet and discomfort, so that we were three days in 
getting into port. 

The place looked as wild as ever, and, when we landed, found an Indian 
on the rocky bluff, guarding a pile of hides. They were not for us, but the 
Don Quixote, which was expected every day. Lewey and I longed to run 
up to the ranche, and see if Anita and Engracia were still in the place, but 
the old man was so disgusted to think there was no cargo for the ship, that 
he ordered us to pull him on board again, and remained in his cabin, and 
sulked all the afternoon. 

In the course of a few days Mr. Melius joined us, and then the Indians 
began to arrive with their clumsy carts, and two and three yoke of oxen, to 
draw fifty or a hundred hides. A piece of stout timber was lashed to the 
horns of the cattle, instead of a yoke around their necks. To draw well, or 
to hold back strongly when descending the steep mountains, a bullock had 
to keep his head perfectly straight and rigid, and this they were trained to 
do by the Indians. 

We picked up about a thousand hides here, and also had some company, 
among the latter Captain Dana, whom we had met several times before on 
our first visit. He said that he was very well contented with his life at 
San Luis, and had all the land and cattle that he desired, and when we 
asked him how many head, he laughed, and stated that he did not know the 
exact number, as he had not rounded in and branded for two years. He 
must have had confidence in his neighbors. 

All the time we were in port we had no opportunity to run up to the 
ranche, neither did we see a single woman of whom we could make any in- 
quiry, and* so we were not sorry when we weighed anchor, and started for 
Ranche Refugio. We had light airs and fogs, until we were near Point 
Conception, and, as it usually blows a gale of wind there, we caught a stiff 
breeze, that caused us to reef topsails and, under short sail, dashed 
around the Point, and dropped anchor off the Ranche just at sundown. As 
our chain rattled out the wind died away, ard we furled sails with the reefs 
still in them, and passed a pleasant night. v 

The next day was Sunday, and some of the men had -liberty to go on 
shore, but few of them were inclined to take it. There was no fun at the 
Ranche, no auguardiente, and nothing to be seen. But the captain left the 
ship in the afternoon, and told us we might go to the vineyard, to get some 
fruit, and we started without further orders. Lewey and I visited the home 
of Anita and Engracia, and found them all ready to enjoy the usual Sunday 


304 


On L.and and Sea. 


dance, and very glad were they to see us once more. They had much to 
tell us of their visit to San Luis, and the nice time they had. 

We remained with them until the last possible moment, and, just as we 
were passing the house where the handsome sisters resided, the captain 
called us in. It seemed that the mother of the ladies was endeavoring to 
make the old man understand that she needed his services for some person 
who was sick, and, as all foreigners were supposed to be physicians, the 
captain was appealed to for aid. 

The captain’s face brightened. If there was one thing that he liked 
more than another it was to prescribe for some person that was ill. But, 
unfortunately for the one that was sick, he had but one remedy, and that 
was a dose of Epsom salts. What they could not cure was considered as 
a hopeless case. Even consumption, he thought, would have to succumb, 
if the salts were used with circumspection. When everything had been ex- 
plained, the captain said that he would look at the young lady who was suf- 
fering, and I suppose he thought that he was to be permitted to feel the 
pulse of some pretty senorita, but imagine his disgust and surprise when 
the lady of the house led him to a hut, at the end of the vineyard, and into 
the presence of an Indian woman, who was so old that she was quite blind, 
and had lost all of her teeth, and most of her flesh, being a mere skeleton, 
with the bones protruding from arms and legs, while her face resembled 
smoked parchment, and so full of wrinkles that it appeared as rough as a 
nutmeg grater. 

“There,” said the lady of the house, “is the sick woman. She is weak 
and helpless. Cure her for me, and the saints will bless you, even if you 
are a heretic.” 

A look of disappointment passed over the captain’s face, but he rallied 
manfully, and felt of the Indian’s pulse, but there was no more motion in 
her wrist than a stone. How old the woman was no one could tell. She 
must have been a hundred or more, to judge by her face and bones. 

The captain was not daunted by the formidable case. He said that he 
thought he could cure her, and promised to bring on shore, the next day, 
some medicine that would do her good, and perhaps it did, but if she got 
well it was contrary to nature, for her sands of life seemed to have run out, 
and left age and helplessness behind. She was as dry as a mummy, and 
about as useless. 

We ran down to Santa Barbara, and anchored outside of the kelp, for 
the season of southeasters had set in, and one might be expected at any 
time. We furled topsails with double reefs in them, and spun-yarn for gas- 


On Land and Sea . 


305 


kets, and a spring on our cable, so as to slip our chain at the first sign of a 
gale. But none came all the time we were in port, as we had remarkably 
fine weather. We were all glad to see the place again, for it looked pleas- 
ant, with the bright autumn sun shining on the white walls of the Mission 
and the tiled roofs of the better class of houses. There had been no 
change since we were there last, except that we found a dozen or more 
trappers from across the Rocky Mountains, and they made things lively in 
the town, but no one dared to interfere in their movements, for each man 
carried a rifle, and knew how to use it, when occasion required. 

Several of the hunters visited the ship, and spent the day with us, in 
search of powder and lead. They did not seem such a reckless party as we 
had expected, and, when we told them that General Castro was about to 
drive all the unnaturalized citizens out of the country, they only laughed, 
and said that they did not fear the brave soldier, and all of his men, pro- 
vided they had plenty of ammunition. They intended to remain in Califor- 
nia until they were ready to go back to their hunting grounds, and did n’t 
mean to be hurried by Castro, or any one else. They practiced at a mark 
while on board, and aimed at champagne bottles, which we suspended on 
the fore-yardarm. In every instance the glass was broken at the first fire, 
no one bottle requiring two shots. The old man tried his hand with them, 
but, although he was a capital marksman, he could not shoot like the trap- 
pers, as the latter had been accustomed to firearms from early boyhood. 

They wanted to borrow one of our boats, and go after otter, but the cap. 
tain did not dare to loan it, for fear of the Mexican authorities, who were 
very particular that no one should hunt on the coast unless duly licensed. 
But where one person paid for the privilege there were a dozen who did 
not. Among the latter were a gigantic negro, from San Diego, and a white 
companion, an American, nearly as large as the African. They had both 
run away from some whale ship, years before, and settled in the southern 
part of California, became good Catholics, and married Mexican women, 
two sisters, who thought that the men, even if one was black, were better 
than no men at all. 

The black and white used to cruise up and down the coast, where the 
kelp was thick, in a flat-bottomed boat, that could easily go through the 
surf, and be hauled up nights on the nearest beach. Sometimes the Mexi- 
can authorities would swear that the illegal hunters should be arrested, and 
intrusted the task to Captain Cooper, of the schooner California, but the 
gallant naval officer never knew where to find the guilty parties, as, when 
they returned to their houses, they rarely brought a skin with them, al- 


306 


On Land and Sea. 


though plenty of money, for the furs were well disposed of to some ship, at 
a good round price, and cash paid for them as soon as delivered. 

The agent of the Admittance bought twenty-five skins at one time, from 
the two hunters, and I think paid about twenty dollars for each pelt, but he 
asked no questions as to where they came from, and never reported the 
transaction to the custom-house officials, for some reasons best known to 
himself. 

One day the white and black hunters drifted into the bay of Santa Barba- 
ra, and through the kelp, one of the parties seated in the bow of the boat, 
with rifle on his knees, and the other in the stern, with a light paddle in his 
hand, and gun lying on a thwart all ready for action. They came very 
near the ship, and we watched the modus operandi of otter hunting. It 
seemed as though the men did not breathe, so quiet were their movements, 
and the paddle was dipped into the water, and taken out, so as not to make 
a ripple, at the same time the light boat was forced along at a snail’s pace. 
On each side, ahead and astern, the hunters glanced, and not a whisper did 
they utter. 

Suddenly there was a dark head, with a pair of large, bright eyes, thrust 
through the kelp, -and a wave of the hand was all that was required to noti- 
fy each other that the otter was seen. The boat remained stationary, and 
the black man raised his rifle. There was a report, a splash, and the skiff 
was driven with all speed to the spot, and a dead otter was the prize. It 
was instantly killed. Had it been only wounded it would have dove to the 
bottom, and, holding on to the kelp, died, and remained there for some 
days, and then its skin would have been useless. If killed instantly, it 
floats on the surface of the water until the air is exhausted from its lungs, 
and then sinks. Quick work must be done to save the prize, even after its 
sudden despatch. In the large kelp it is impossible to see the bottom, and 
no one would think of jumping overboard, and diving for the carcass, as no 
swimmer could get through the thick stems of the sea- weed. 

Some one, who seemed to have a little authority on shore, rode down to 
the beach, and shouted to the hunters to come to the landing, and give 
themselves up, and pay a fine, but the two men replied with insulting ges- 
tures, and then offered to sell the skin to the captain, but the latter knew 
that the ship was watched from the land, and for that reason alone declined 
the trade. 

The hunters paddled toward Point Buenaventuro, and there camped for 
the night, and no one dared go near them for the purpose of bringing them 
to justice, for fear of their rifles, and steady aim. 


On Land and Sea . 


3o; 


In 1849 I met the black and white men on Feather River, near Bidwell’s 
Bar, and recalled the above incident to their minds. They laughed at the 
idea of any one asking them to account for their depredations, and said that 
they had never paid a tax during all their hunting, and residence in San 
Diego, and that no one had been bold enough to seek to enforce the law 
against them. They also stated that otter hunting was no longer profita- 
ble, and they could make more money digging gold than trapping and 
shooting, and I think they spoke correctly, for they had a nice pocket on 
the river, and took out of it over thirty thousand dollars in dust in three 
months’ time. They had their wives with them, and drank more liquor 
than was beneficial, for husbands and wives had a grand carouse once a 
w6ek, and fought each other desperately, then sobered up, and were good 
friends for six days, or less. 

Shortly after we anchored at Santa Barbara, Mr. Cushing ordered the 
boat alongside one afternoon, as he expressed a desire to go on shore. 
The mate told us to get ready, and, when I reported that we were dressed 
in our usual costume for passenger duty, a basket was passed down the 
steps, but in such a clumsy manner that something broke, and a peculiar 
kind of liquid showed itself outside the package. I opened it hastily, and 
there were three bottles of champagne, but one of them was cracked, and 
the contents oozing out very slowly. 

“ Throw it overboard,” roared Mr. Prentice, as I looked at the lost wine 
very sadly. 

“What, all this good stuff? ” I asked. 

“ Yes, over with it,” was the reply, and very reluctantly into the water it 
went, and the salt sea of the harbor was mingled with the champagne of 
New Jersey, or France. Quien sabe ? as the Mexicans say. Who knows 
to which country it belonged ? It was the first time that such a sacrifice 
was ever made in that port, and perhaps the broken bottle is even now at 
the roots of some of the kelp, and nourishing it into life and vigor. 

Another flask was substituted for the broken one, and then we pulled 
ashore, and escaped further disaster. 

“ Thom,” said the assistant supercargo, “ I want you to take this basket 
to the house that is nearest the Mission, at the foot of the hill. Don’t go 
there by the main street, but cut across lots, and let no one see you if you 
can help it.” 

Now we all understood the order as well as the person who gave it, and 
we knew just what it meant. Some pretty little half-caste Mexican girl 
was to be treated to a sip of liquor, such as she rarely or never drank. 


308 


On Land and Sea. 


However, it was none of our business. We were there to obey orders, and 
not to question them, and, with a pleasant afternoon’s work before me, I 
trudged across the low, dusty mesa land, until I had weathered the village, 
and then started for the adobe house, the location of which I knew very 
well, and so did several captains and supercargoes on the coast, but they 
always paid their visits after dark, as a general thing, for what reason I 
never knew, and did not care to inquire. I usually had enough business of 
my own on hand without interfering with other people’s, as some foolish 
boys might have done. 

Just as I was exchanging a few friendly words with some half-breed Indi- 
an girls, who were more frank than polite, and more undressed than dressed, 
something after the style of a first-class ballet dancer, and, while the la- 
dies were debating among themselves whether it was best to pelt me with 
balls ot mud, or decayed fruit, who should tarn a corner, and come plump 
upon me, but Captain Peterson, and to say that he was surprised would 
convey but a slight idea of the expression on his face. 

“ Vot de devil are you doing here on shore ? ” he asked, and the girls 
scampered into their houses, and peeped out of the doors, and showed their 
white teeth as they grinned at me. 

“ On duty, sir,” I answered. 

“Vot kind of duty? I finds you talkin’ to de scum agin. Did n’t I tell 
you not to ’ssociate vid ’em ? ” 

“Yes, sir, but I only stopped for a moment to inquire my way,” I said, 
giving the first excuse that came to my mind, for the captain always had an 
idea that the “ scum ” would corrupt my moral character. But in this he 
was sadly mistaken. 

“ Vot vay ? Vot has you got in dat basket ? Bring it here.” 

I obeyed. He removed the cover of the basket, and the sight of three 
bottles of champagne made him wild. 

“Vere did dis come from?” he asked, with a gasp, and a glitter in his 
eyes. 

“ The ship, sir.” 

“ And who gives it to you? ” was the next question. 

“ The clerk, sir.” 

“ Veil, veil, is dat so ?” with a sort of sigh. 

“ Yes, sir,” and I knew there was music ahead for some one, but I did 
n’t care. It was none of my business, 

“ And vare you takin’ de vine ? ” 

“ To that adobe house, about three points to the larboard of the Mission,” 


On Land a7id Sea. 


309 


was my prompt answer, for I was very nautical in those days, and wanted 
the old man to see that I had improved under his instruction. 

“ Veil, you go on,' 5 and he motioned me to continue my journey, for he 
would not let one of the boys see that there was something wrong in the 
management of the after -guard of the ship. 

I winked at the girls, who were watching the interview from their houses, 
and they returned it with interest, and shrieks of laughter, and then threw 
kisses at me, to the intense indignation and disgust of the captain. He 
growled out something about “ scum,” and strode away, and I walked on, 
whistling for company, but, just as I was about to shy a club at a quail, 
who should turn a corner, and stumble nearly over the basket, which I had 
placed on the ground so that 1 could throw the stick with more precision, 
but Mr. Melius. 

“ Hullo, Thom,” he asked, “ what are you doing here ? ” 

“ Trying to kill a quail, sir, for supper.” 

“Does this basket belong to you?” the supercargo asked, taking no in- 
terest in my desire for a California luxury. 

“ No, sir, it is the property of the clerk. He gave it to me to carry to 
the village.” 

“Let me see what there is in the basket,” was the command, and, when 
the agent saw the wine, his face was a study for an artist who desired to 
depicture consternation and deep surprise. 

“ Where are you taking this ?” 

“ To the adobe house at the foot of the hill, about three points ” — 

“ Go on,” he interrupted impatiently, and left me, and I missed the quail 
after all, just because the supercargo disconcerted my aim by appearing as 
he did. 

I found the clerk at the house, all ready to receive me, and he appeared 
very happy when I had delivered to him the basket, and its contents. 

“ Did you meet any one on the road ? ” he asked. 

“Oh, no,” I answered carelessly. “Only some Indian girls, the captain, 
and Mr. Melius, all the rest of the town’s-people appear to be enjoying the 
usual afternoon siesta. Came very near killing a quail, though. If the 
stick had been a little longer, or had gone half a fathom nearer, I should 
have tumbled him over. Good deal of loose game around here, is n’t 
there?” 

But the clerk did not appear to take much interest in game just at that 
time, and said that I had better go to the boat, and return to the ship as 
soon as possible. 


07 i Land and Sea . 


3io 


I did so, and had another little tilt with the Indian girls, who threatened 
to throw water over me, but that I knew was an impossibility, because they 
never used it, except in the wet season, when they had to be rained on 
when they stirred from their houses, r had a slight job of work out-of- 
doors. 

I did not hear how the champagne question was settled, and neither did 
I care, but a few months afterward Mr. Cushing was sent home, and I nev- 
er heard what became of him. He was a clever, good-hearted, bold, im- 
pulsive young fellow, but not the man for the kind of work he had under- 
taken, as it requires a smart person to deal with Mexicans, to see through 
them, and realize the fact that they will cheat you as badly as you can 
swindle them, if the chance is equal. A Yankee will sometimes break his 
promise, and you can also wager a small sum that the same is true of a 
Mexican, but which is sharpest at a bargain I am unable to say at this late 
day. We shall probably discover by the time the Americans have covered 
all Mexico with railroads, and look for vast returns for the same. When 
you ask for dividends the usual answer will be made, “ Ouien sabe,” and a 
suggestive shrug of the shoulders may be equal to ten per cent on the capi- 
tal stock, and a propaganda fide will take away about twenty more, and a 
real lively pronunciamento. from a popular chief, may cause a drop in the 
stock, but that will make holders uneasy, and then war will be the result, or 
else remarkable bribery of people in power to make things all square. 
The Mexicans are not fools. They may be lazy and unreliable, but at head 
work they can do a great deal of thinking, and not get agitated on the sub- 
ject even for a moment, or a year. 

As we pulled off we saw that the Admittance had hoisted her colors, and, 
just as we got alongside, a large ship came in sight around Point Arena, 
and we could tell by her cranes and rigging that the stranger was a whaler. 
She ran in, and anchored near us, and sent a boat to our vessel to know if 
we had lately seen any whales in the bay, and to report that the ship was 
the John Jay, Captain Rodgers, from New Bedford, I think. She had been 
to Monterey, and was cruising along the coast in the hope of picking up a 
sperm whale or two, and some finbacks, or gray whales, and there were 
large numbers sporting near the kelp every day, and eating tinker mackerel. 
This information seemed to please the boat’s crew, and the third officer 
who had charge, and came on board, said that he would like to tackle some 
of the visitors, and we told him that he would have no trouble in doing that, 
for they were not shy, as no one had disturbed them since we had been on 
the coast, 


On Land and Sea. 


3ii 


The ship was about half full of sperm oil, and the crew were anxious for 
something to fill up, so that they could return home, for they said that they 
had seen all the whaling they desired. It was not such fun as they expect- 
ed. Some of them asked us how we managed to keep our decks so white, 
and hinted that we should see theirs, and we did, but the sight was not in- 
spiring, and we did not care to linger long about the trv-works, where the 
smell was rancid. The crew were accustomed to it, and were a very good 
set of men, stout and hearty, and not muffled up in Cape-Horn clothing, like 
most whalers we had seen. 

The next day the gray whales came in for their usual feed of smelts and 
mackerel, or some other kind of fish, and down went three of the ship’s 
boats, and the men took their places in them, and shoved off. 

English Jack was wild when he saw the preparations, and talked whale 
90 strong that we fancied we could smell the rancid oil even in our own 
ship. 

I obtained permission of Mr. Prentice to go into the foretop, where I 
could see the fun, and, somehow, Lewey went with me. The boats started 
off at a rapid rate, until near the whales, and then all pulled with more cau- 
tious strokes. We saw the boat-steerers stand up, irons in their hands, 
and, while the finbacks were gulping down whole mouthfuls of food, there 
was a dart, a splash, white water, dark skins, revolving fins, long and slen- 
der, and then each boat started for the islands opposite Santa Barbara, as 
though they had some business there that would not brook delay. 

I don’t think I ever saw boats move through the water as those three did, 
for all were fast at the same time, and bound toward Santa Rosa Island* 
But after one whale had ran for ten minutes or more, he suddenly turned, 
and came near the ships, yet did not enter the kelp, as though fearful of it. 
The wounded fish crossed our bow, then sheared, so quickly in fact, that I 
thought he would capsize the boat, but the crew trimmed it in time, and 
escaped the threatened danger, and away they went under the stern, and, 
just as the whale came up to blow, our captain put a rifle-ball in its head 
but it did not seem to mind it much. It sounded, stirred up the mud and 
sand, and, as the boat made the circuit of the ship, we saw that each man 
was in his place, on the thwarts, in the bow, and the stern, while the officer 
held a lance in his hand to punch the gray-back, if he could get near 
enough. 

« Vhy don’t you kill him ? ” roared Captain Peterson, but the mate, in the 
bow of the boat, only grinned, and his crew held on to the line, and followed 
the example of their officer, smiling back on us, as though they were hav- 


312 


On Land and Sea. 


ing a pleasant ride, and did not care to have it suspended by a very hasty 
death. 

All at once the whale stopped running, and commenced rolling over and 
over, until it looked like a revolving wind-mill, all arms, and, while it was 
coiling the line around its bulk, the mate had the boat pulled up close, and 
sent his lance into the body, near one of the long fins, or, rather, just be- 
hind it. The turning over process did not seem to interest the fish any 
more, for it stopped quite suddenly, and went to the bottom, and appeared 
to lie there, and meditate on all that had transpired during the day. But 
the rope that was attached to the iron was taughtened. and up came the 
whale with a rush, and in such a hurry that the crew of the boat did not 
laugh for several minutes, as near as we could estimate, being engaged in 
“ sterning all,” to get out of the way of the tail and fins, which continued to 
play around quite lively. There was blood on the surface of the water, and 
when the whale came up to spout it showed a little tint of red, and that 
shade increased in color until the finback seemed to get desperate, and ran 
for a mile or more out of the bay, at a rapid rate, but suddenly turned, and 
came toward us, and then, when within a few fathoms of the ships, stopped, 
went to the bottom, stirring up a mass of mud and sand, once more came to 
the surface, gave a final spout of blood and water, ran around in a circle 
and yielded up its life. As soon as breathing ceased down it sank, and 
was not raised until the next day, when it came up easily under a little 
pressure, was towed alongside the whale-ship, and cut in, and the blubber, 
one of the men informed us, made twenty barrels of oil. Not a large 
amount, but then old gray-backs are dry pickings, and better than nothing 
to a crew that is lying idle. 

In the mean time the other boats were nearly over to Santa Rosa Island, 
and the whales were on the complete jump, and no chance to get alongside 
for a lance. It was late in the afternoon before the whalers returned, the 
men tired and disgusted with their long pull. 

Every day for a week the boats were lowered, but the success was varied. 
I think that some hundred barrels of oil were taken, and I suppose that the 
business was remunerative, in spite of all the loss of irons and lines, as 
many whales had to be cut loose from, to prevent boats being towed to sea. 

We had one more grand dinner party on board, while we were in Santa 
Barbara, and once more I had the happiness of carrying in my arms to the 
boat the handsomest young lady in California, still she did not seem to re- 
member me, so I supposed my personal appearance was not sufficiently 
striking to make much of an impression. I do not know whether there 


On Land arid Sea. 


313 


was an understanding that the captain was not to play on his accordion, but 
atany rate the instrument was mute, and, in place of music, Leweywas requir- 
ed to give the dons and senoritas an exhibition of his legerdemain. I was 
not even asked in the store-room to assist the lad, which I thought a little un- 
grateful, considering all that I had done for the entertainment of the peo- 
ple at Monterey. There was never any explanation made as to the reason 
I was thus neglected, and I was too proud, or prudent, to ask the cause. 
There are some natures that can suffer, and be silent, and still endure 
wrongs, and perhaps mine was one, at that time. Mr. Prentice said the 
captain intimated that he did n’t want any confounded fooling while he had 
such distinguished company on board, and perhaps he was wise in not run- 
ning any risks. I was glad to learn, however, that Lewey did not even get 
a mouthful of the gorgeous dinner, and no one asked him to take a glass of 
wine. 

On the very day that we had been out from Boston just one year, we up 
anchor, and sailed along the high coast for San Pedro. The wind was 
light all the way down, and, as we were close in shore, we had a charming 
view of the country, the mountains, and valleys, the deep ravines, and the 
thick forests. We had a young fellow as a passenger, a son of Mr. Rob- 
bins, of Santa Barbara, a very pleasant boy, who was not too proud to talk 
with us, when he had a chance. The captain showed him marked atten- 
tion, so I suppose he represented many thousand hides, and numerous bags 
of tallow, for future delivery, for the old man did not approve of passengers 
unless there was some perceptible advantage to be gained. 

When we dropped anchor at San Pedro, we found the ship California, 
Captain Arthur, there, all ready to make her last trip to the windward, and 
then return to load, at San Diego, for home. Some of our people were in- 
clined to envy the old ship, but Lewey and I talked the subject all over, and 
agreed that California suited us as well as any other place, and that we 
were not ready for Boston just yet. We were well treated, had enough to 
eat, and the most agreeable duty on board the ship, and were gaining in 
knowledge every day. We were not troubled with homesickness, but how 
to get a full discharge from the vessel, receive our money, so that we could 
buy a ranche, and marry Anita and Engracia, were matters that bothered 
me. Lewey said that he could fix it in some way, and I had such sublime 
confidence in his impudence that I left all in his hands, and told him to 
study up his plans, only to be sure not to fail at the last moment. 

At one time he thought that we could move through the country, and 
give exhibitions at the various towns, if we were short of money, and I con- 


314 


On Land and Sea. 


sidered the idea a good one. We knew that we could travel from one end 
of California to the other, stopping at ranches as long as we pleased, with- 
out spending a dollar, as no one thought of charging a real for entertain- 
ment, in those days. All who called were welcomed, and furnished with 
the best that the house contained, and no questions asked as to when you 
intended to leave, or what you meant to do in the future. It was help your- 
self, and come again as soon as possible. 

Should I have been willing to remain on the coast if ! had not been fas- 
cinated with Anita’s bright eyes? Well, no, I think not, but I was a year 
older than when I left Boston, and a woman’s handsome face was having 
its usual effect on a susceptible youth, who was fond of adventure, full of 
animal spirits, and knew that he had a little property to fall back upon, 
even if he did not embrace a profession, as his guardian expected him to 
do, when the proper moment arrived. 

Captain Arthur came on board, and had supper with our master, and the 
two spun yarns until late in the night, and then we had to be roused out to 
row him on board his old tub, and the following day she got under way, and 
drifted toward Santa Barbara. It is not generally known, but, neverthe- 
less, it is a fact, that Captain James P. Arthur hoisted the first American 
flag that was ever seen on the shores of California. This was done at San 
Diego, in 1829, over the hide house of which he had charge. He made the 
flag out of blue and red flannel shirts, and showed it one day when an Eng- 
lish frigate dropped anchor at the port, to the astonishment of the natives 
of Great Britain, who had no idea of seeing our national ensign in such an 
out-of-the-way place. Captain Arthur is now living, a hale, hearty old man, 
at South Braintree, Mass., and at the time he hoisted the flag was second 
mate of the ship Brookline, Captain Locke, belonging to Messrs. Bryant 
& Sturgis, of Boston. A seaman, named George W. Greene, of Milton, 
Mass., assisted in making and hoisting the ensign. 

In a few days the Barnstable arrived, and brought us letters from home, 
package's of good clothes, and newspapers. Some ship had touched at 
Monterey, and left our bundles, and the Barnstable brought them down to 
us, and very glad we were to hear from friends in Boston. My relatives 
wrote to me that I must be good, as though there was any necessity for 
such advice, and to come home when I got tired of the sea, but they did 
not seem to be over anxious for that event to happen, probably thinking 
that I might as well have enough of salt water while I was about it. 

Lewey did not receive any letters, as his relatives had not the slightest 
idea in what part of the globe he was drifting, the boy never taking the 


Oji Land a7td Sea. 


315 


trouble to write home. For a while he looked a little sorrowful, when he 
saw the rest of the lads perusing their correspondence, and then offered a 
premium to any one that would let him read his letters, but no one accept- 
ed the offer. 

The captain went up to the Pueblo on a horse that he borrowed from Mr. 
Howard, the agent for Bryant & Sturgis, and was gone three days, in com- 
pany with Captain Hatch, of the Barnstable. When he returned, he 
brought a lot of company with him, including some of the most prominent 
men of Los Angeles. There was Senor Bandini, who was looking for an 
office under the new governor, consequently his credit was good on board 
the ship, and Messrs. Temple, Stearns, Read, and others. There were 
some nice dinners, and lots of wine drunk, and I suppose the owners got 
paid for it in the course of time. 

The Barnstable sailed for San Diego, to load for home, and left us to col- 
lect what hides we could, and bring them down to her. We found it very 
lonely at San Pedro when the guests were gone, and the ship had sailed, 
and the only thing that we had to relieve the monotony of our existence 
happened one morning when we pulled the captain on shore, to make a call 
on Captain Foster and his wife. 

As we drew near the landing we noticed that the doors of the adobe 
house were closed, and that some one was waving a serapa from a window, 
as though to welcome the person who was about to pay a visit to the prem- 
ises. The captain looked pleased. He did n’t object to such demonstra- 
tions, for it showed that he was appreciated, and all men like to be flat- 
tered. 

“ You go back to de ship,” he said, as he stepped on the small stones 
that covered the landing place, and made it the worst beach on the coast, 
“and come for me in de afternoon, say about tree o’clock,” and, with this 
parting command, the old man commenced the ascent of the bank, and if 
he had stopped to look back, would have seen that we were not in a great 
hurry to return to the vessel, for it was much more pleasant to idle awav 
our time in the boat, than working on various jobs in the ship. In fact, 
Lewey was just in the act of spearing a craw-fish, with the boat hook, and 
swearing in French because we nearly pitched him out -of the gig, in our 
anxiety to see the fun, when we noticed the captain running down the hill, 
as fast as his long legs could carry him, and making frantic efforts to his 
boat’s-crew to return to the landing. 

“What in blazes is the matter with Peter?” Tom asked, as we turned 
the bead of the boat toward the shore, and pulled in, 


3i 6 


On Land and Sea. 


“ He leave ’em accordion on board,” remarked Lewey, who had an intense 
hatred of the musical instrument, even if it was manufactured in France. 

A few strokes of the oars sent us to the usual place for beaching the 
boat, and the captain jumped in, his face heated, and his whole appearance 
denoting some little excitement. We wondered what it was all about, but 
did not deem it prudent to ask questions. 

“Shove off,” the captain said. “Be lively, and give way,” and, as we 
turned the boat’s head for the ship, the old man glanced over his shoulder, 
toward the table-land astern. “ Yes,” he said, half aloud, “he is still dare, 
and is a big von, and ugly as Satan.” 

We did n’t know who was there, but the serapa was still floating from the 
window of the house, like a signal of welcome, or distress, we did not know 
which, and we thought that we could see a woman’s dark-brown hand mov- 
ing up and down, like the brake of a pump, and hear a gentle female yell, 
shrill and piercing, as if calling to us to return, and not desert her in time 
of danger. 

“ A strong, long stroke, lads,” the captain said. “ Dar is a bear on’de 
shore, and I vant to get my rifle, and shoot him.” 

This was great news for us, and we gave way with a will, that sent the 
light boat dancing over the water at a rapid rate. From what we could 
learn the captain had gone up the bluff in a light and jaunty manner, and 
the first thing he awakened to was the fact that he was not the only occu- 
pant of the place, by a deep and angry growl. Looking around, the cap- 
tain noticed, within two fathoms of him, a large bear, that was feeding on 
the offal of a bullock, which we had slaughtered the day before, for .ship’s 
use. 

The instinct of most men prompts them to turn and run if a huge bear, 
one that weighs about eight hundred pounds, is near them, and is inclined 
to resent all intrusion when feeding, so it is no discredit to the captain to 
say that he jumped about five fathoms toward the bank, and nearly that dis- 
tance high, and got out of the way as fast as possible, and lost no time in 
getting into the boat, for he had no weapon with him. It was a rare occur- 
rence to see a bear on the mesa lands, and so near the water. In fact, it 
was the first and only one we saw at San Pedro. It must have wandered 
out of its CDurse in search of food, and found the remains of a bullock, and 
was gorging itself, like a modern alderman, at the public expense. The 
signals as the only adobe house on the bluff were made to warn us that 
there was danger near, but no one understood them, unfortunately, and the 
people of the place had entered their abode, fastened the door, and were in 


On Land and Sea . 


3i 7 


a state of siege, as they did not dare to come out, forced to wait until the 
bear wandered off, or help came from some quarter. 

Had two or three vaqueros, mounted on strong horses, made their appear- 
ance, it would have been sport for them to badger the bear into a state of 
fury, and then twisted it all up in their reatas, tied it in a hard knot, and 
killed it. But no one hove in sight, and telegraphs and telephones 
were unknown in California, in those days. Captain Foster, wife, and ser- 
vant, could only hope that the animal would gorge itself, and then wander 
off, and leave them free, for the male portion of the family did not dare to 
fire at the beast with the only weapon he owned, an old ship musket, that 
scattered shot terribly, and could not come within five fathoms of the object 
aimed at. 

Mr. Prentice was somewhat surprised to see us return so soon, but when 
the captain explained the object that brought him back, the mate wanted to 
go on shore, and see the fun, but the old man said that it was hardly worth 
while, as he thought he could kill the bear with one or two shots from his 
rifle, and did not need help. 

We pulled ashore, and the captain loaded his rifle on the way, and very 
careful he was about the charge. When we got near the landing the serapa 
was still waving, and a face was seen at the window. We backed in to the 
beach, and the captain walked slowly up the steep hill. He neglected 
to tell us that we might return to the ship, but said that we had better lay 
on our oars, and wait for him, He wanted to cover his retreat, in case of 
necessity. 

The old man carefully peered over the bank, and then cocked his rifle, 
took a good aim, and fired. We heard a roar, a savage growl, and the next 
instant the captain was making the best time he ever made in a running 
match, and just behind him w r as the maddest bear in California. 

“By the jumping jingo,” said Tom, “look at Peter leg it.” 

“ Oh, if he only hab ’em ‘ccordion vid him now,” Lewey muttered, “dat 
bear turn tail, and run de udder vay.” 

The captain gave one jump as he drew near, and landed in the stern- 
sheets of the boat, and the bear was not far in his wake. 

There was no need to wait for orders. We did not require any just at 
that moment. We dipped our oars in the water simultaneously, and gave a 
powerful stroke that sent the boat some distance from the shore, and then 
the savage beast, the blood flowing from a wound in its side, started as 
though to follow us, but thought better of it, and stood on the beach, and 
just roared in its impotent rage, and tore up stones and gravel with its 


3i8 


On Land and Sea. 


powerful claws, and looked at us in a manner that did not betoken any 
good in case we had been near. 

Captain Foster, who had heard the shot, and seen the pursuit of bruin, 
now came to the edge of the bank, and looked down on us. 

“ Have you injured him badly ? ” he asked of the captain, but, before 
there was "time to answer, the bear turned, and went up the pathway at a 
rapid rate, in pursuit of the new enemy, and there was an almost instanta- 
neous disappearance of Captain Foster in the privacy of his house, and 
the door was closed with such a bang that we could even hear it at the 
landing. 

“ Keep still now, and I vill give him annuder,” the old man said, as he re- 
loaded his rifle, and was ready for a second shot. 

He took a hasty aim at the brute, and the ball hit him near the fore 
shoulder. He stopped running, and sat down on his haunches, and began 
to bile at the new wound, and then desisting from such useless work, turned, 
and ran down the hill, plunged into the water, and swam toward the boat, 
dyeing the sea with the blood that slowly flowed from his side. 

It was astonishing how fast that bear could swim, and how much in ear- 
nest he was, as he paddled toward us. We pulled a few strokes to keep out 
of its way, and give the captain a chance to re-load his rifle. If the bear 
could have laid one paw on the side of the boat it might have been all over 
with us. He would have capsized us in an instant, and chawed the boys at 
his leisure. 

But now a new actor appeared on the scene, in the shape of a monstrous 
shark, whose black fin, just above the water, we had noticed several times 
during the past few days, on our way from ship to shore. He was attracted 
to the spot by the splashing, and scent of blood, and came swimming along 
to investigate matters, and see if there was not a little picnic going on in 
which he could take a hand. The bear, all unconscious of the danger, pad- 
died after us, at a lively rate, growling, and snapping its jaw* when it saw 
that it could not overtake us, and have revenge for its injuries. The cap- 
tain, when the new claimant appeared, reserved his fire, and watched for 
further developments. 

The shark swam near the bear, looked him all over, and then decided that 
it was something it could attack. It settled out of sight, and suddenly 
there was a roar, and a struggle, and bruin did not appear to take much in- 
terest in our movements, for it ducked its head under water, and seemed 
to bite at something that had caught hold of one of his paws. It struggled 
and pulled, and uttered growl after growl, when its head was above the sur- 


On Land and Sea . 


319 


face of the sea, and then turned, and made for the shore as fast as it could, 
but progress was slow, for the shark was pulling one way and the bear the 
other, and sometimes -the latter was almost out of sight. 

'Fhe captain wanted to Save the skin of the beast, and feared he would 
lose it if the shark should conquer, accordingly he directed us to back wa- 
ter, so that the boat would be nearer the contest. We did so very cautious- 
ly, and, just as we were about two fathoms from the scene of the fight, the 
shark let go its hold, and came to the surface to see what kind of an animal 
it had tackled. It only showed its huge head out of the water when the cap- 
tain put a rifle-ball in it, near the eye. There was a mighty splash, the 
flapping of a large tail, and down to the bottom went the man-eater, and we 
saw him no more that day, but some time after we noticed a flock of buz- 
zards hovering over a carcass on the beach, and we went to see what was 
there, and found the remains of the shark. It measured thirteen feet in 
length, was as large around as a pork barrel, and had most formidable sets 
of teeth, capable of taking off a man’s leg at a single snap. The reason it 
had not severed a claw of the bear was because there were so many bones 
and tough muscles, that the teeth could not detach them at one bite. 

The bear did not stop to ask for explanations. It kept on for the shore, 
not more than half a cable’s-length away, and paddled for dear life with the 
three feet that were in good order. But when it touched dry ground, and 
limped toward the road that led to the table-land, we saw that it held up one 
paw, and was weak with the loss of blood. It licked the injured foot, and 
■*hen sat down on its haunches, and growled at us, and did not seem dis- 
posed to move from the landing. 

“I say, Peterson, where is the bear? ” asked Captain Foster, who had 
once more ventured out of his abode, thinking that the animal had died in 
the water. 

A savage roar was the response, and Captain Foster once more made 
good time toward his house, and bolted the door, and then again looked 
out of the window, and wondered when the trouble was to end, for he was 
tired of his imprisonment, and his wife was in a fainting fit. 

But a third shot from the rifle laid the brute low. It rolled down the 
beach, and remained quiet. I was told to land, go up to the house, and 
assure every one that all danger was past ; but somehow I did not like the 
job, for I was afraid that the bear was playing possum. However, after 
throwing a few stones at the animal, and seeing that it took no notice of 
the insults, I ventured to pass it, and informed Captain Foster that all his 
trials were over, and very thankful Mrs. Foster was at the information, as she 


320 


On Land and Sea . 


had been shaking with terror and fainting fits all the morning. She called 
down blessings on Captain Petei son’s head, and did n’t even think of ask- 
ing the saints to protect the boys whose coolness and stout hearts had con- 
tributed so much toward a satisfactory result. It is not always those who 
do the most that receive the greatest praise. 

A number of peons were sent for, and they skinned the huge brute, and 
saved its claws, and the carcass was given to the coyotes, and they came 
from all quarters for the feast. The pelt was a very nice one, and a con- 
founded time we had in drying it on ship-board, before the evil smell evap- 
orated. 

The next week we gathered all the hides that we could rake in, and then 
weighed anchor, and headed for San Diego, where we were to see the last 
of the Barnstable, as she was loading for home as fast as possible, glad to 
leave the coast and the people of California to their own resources, but no 
more pleased than we to think the ship was to go, so that we could obtain 
hides on our own account. 






LEWBY RECEIVES A PROPOSAL. 


PART TWELFTH. 

SAN DIEGO. — A STING-RAY. — FISHING AMONG THE KELP. — A SHIP 
LOADING FOR HOME. — ANOTHER REVOLUTION. — PRONUNCIAMENTOS. 

— A PANIC AT MONTEREY. — THE MIDNIGHT GUN. — SAVING WOMEN AND 
CHILDREN. — AN UNGRATEFUL GIRL. — UP AND DOWN THE COAST. — 
SAN FRANCISCO. —A TERRIBLE DEATH. — A DEER HUNT. — BOARD- 
ING SHIP UNDER DIFFICULTIES. — WAR THREATENED BETWEEN THE 
UNITED STATES AND MEXICO. — THE LAST RESORT FOR A DISCHARGE. 

— GOOD-BY. 

yl TE were three days drifting down the coast from San Pedro to San 
* ’ Diego, for the wind was light and baffling, and there were thick 
fogs, and drizzling rains. The distance is only about ninety miles, and we 
could have made it in about ten hours if we had had a spanking breeze 
from the northeast, such as sometimes blows along the shore. Even when 
we made Point Loma the wind was dead ahead, what there was of it, and 
we had to make short tacks through the thick kelp, and beat up the narrow 
entrance at Ballast Point, and came to anchor near our hide house, and the 


322 


On Land and Sea. 


Barnstable, the latter ship and our own being the only ones in Dort at the 
time. 

Already the Barnstable had commened active preparations for loading, a 
job that would require six weeks’ hard labor. Her sails were unbent, all 
provisions sent on shore, and the vessel smoked to kill rats, mice, and 
cockroaches, and there were plenty of all varieties on board, not 
counting the millions of fleas, as there were more of the latter to the square 
foot in California than any other country in the world, except the Turkish 
possessions, and certain portions of the land on the Mediterranean. 

We landed our hides, and the balance of the salt, and then took on board 
all the goods that the Barnstable had not disposed of. Under the last of 
the salt there were many curious packages brought to light, such as boxes 
of wines and ales, and other things not of a perishable nature, and which 
had not been entered at the custom-house, owing to some fortunate over- 
sight, or, possible neglect, on the part of the agent. 

As soon as our salt was discharged we required some ballast to take its 
place, so every forenoon the launch, under the charge of the second mate, 
was sent to the entrance of the harbor, or near the old dilapidated fort, 
where there was an abundance of paving stones, clean and smooth, just 
suited for our purpose. One afternoon I was sent with the gang, and rath- 
er liked the job, having a good chance to spear craw-fish, there being quite 
an abundance near the beach. 

We drifted out with, the tide; were soon on the grounds, and commenced 
picking up the stones, in about two feet of water, when all at once Oliver 
gave a most unearthly yell, and tumbled into the bottom of the boat, kick- 
ing and screaming, and rubbing one of his naked feet, as though he had 
stepped on hot iron, and been badly burned. 

“ What in blankation is the matter with you ? ” roared Mr. Davidson, and 
into the boat he went in a hurry, on top of the seaman, and they kicked at 
each other, and yelled in common. 

“ It ’s a sheerk,” said Dutch Fred, and into the launch he jumped, head 
first, and the second mate planted a kick, with his naked foot, right between 
the man’s eyes, and over Fred tumbled on the hard stones, and shouted 
murder so loud that he could have been heard a mile. 

“ A shark ! a shark ! ” we all cried, and into the boat we also went, and 
struggled to see who would be on top, and avoid the crush, and the paving 
stones. 

- vtfhat are you ail afraid of ? ” demanded the second mate after a while. 
“ There a’n’t no shark within a mile of us,” and he struggled to his feet, 


On Land and Sea. 


323 


and glared at the men as though he was not afraid of anything that swam 
the seas. 

“ Then get over in the water, and see,” one of the men cried, a sailor who 
was wedged in between a pile of stones and some of his shipmates. 

“ Who said that ? ” roared Mr. Davidson, but no one responded to the 
question, fpr the good reason that the second mate would net stand any 
nonsense from the crew. 

On this account the sailor preferred to keep quiet, so was not discov- 
ered. 

“ Oh, my leg is gone,” moaned Oliver, but he knew that it was not, and 
when we got off of him found that it was not bitten by a shark, but had 
swollen very badly, and turned scarlet. We had no doubt but that it was 
quite painful by the fellow’s groans and sighs, but at the same time we could 
not help laughing at him, he looked so lugubrious. 

The man had been stung by a lively sting-ray, or sting-bull, as some call 
them, a species of fish that is capable of inflicting painful wounds. There 
were many along the shore of San Diego bay, and all sailors dreaded them, but 
this was the first time that one had made its presence felt among our crew. 

He swore so strongly that he was dying, Mr. Davidson thought it best to 
return to the ship for treatment, and all the way to the vessel the fellow 
howled and moaned, and refused to be comforted. I believe the captain 
ordered the wound to be bathed in salt and rum, and that speedily took out 
the pain and the swelling, but Oliver was on the sick list for a week. The 
crew swore that they did not want to encounter any more such danger for 
all the ballast in the universe, and so we took what the Barnstable had to 
spare, and our complement was thus completed. 

One day the captain started on a fishing expedition in his quarter-boat, 
and with half a dozen lines, great and small. We pulled out to the kelp, 
and made fast to the long, stout stems, and the captain dropped over one 
of his lines, but, before it had gone down a fathom, there was a tremen- 
dous bite, and away went hook and sinker. The old man made another at- 
tempt with tougher gear, but the second fared no better than the first. 
Then he tried a cod-fish hook and line, and pulled up half a dozen kinds of 
fish, some of them red, and others a dark brown, weighingTrom five to ten 
pounds each. I never saw such ravenous biting, or so many fish caught in 
such a short time. There seemed to be thousands of them all ready for a 
chance at the hook and bait, as soon as they struck the water. The captain 
must have caught two barrels full in an hour’s time, and we had all the fish 
we wanted to eat, fore and aft, for a day or two, while a liberal supply was 


324 


On Land and Sea, 


sent up to Captain Fitch, of San Diego, and on board the Barnstable. As 
no one ever went fishing from the town, being too lazy to take the trouble, 
the increase of each particular species must have been wonderful in the 
course of a year, for the gray whale did not trouble the larger fish, but took 
in the smelts and tinker mackerel, which could be found in abundance all 
along the lower part of California, at certain seasons. 

We remained in port a fortnight, then up anchor, fired a salute in honor 
of our sister ship, cheered the crew, and were cheered in return. The cap- 
tain sighed as he thought how long a time must elapse before he would be 
ready to load for home, and see that dark-eyed young lady he dreamed so 
much about, while Lewey and I were more concerned because we wanted to 
remain, and be with the dark-eyed girls of California, whom we supposed we 
loved with real manly devotion, and for whose sake we were willing to make 
many sacrifices. When I look back to those days I wonder at our insanity, 
for insane we certainly were, and all because two young girls had dark eyes 
and hair, and perfect forms and features. 

One day in San Diego I had spoken to Captain Peterson about giving us 
our discharge, when the ship was ready for sea, and he said, — 

“ Vot, remain in dis God-forsaken country? You is crazy,” and he was 
nearly correct. 

“ Yes, sir, Lewey and I would prefer to stop here. We like it.” 

“Veil, you von’t,” and he turned on his heel, and declined any further 
discussion of the matter, and when I reported to Lewey the bad result of 
my interview, he smiled a sad, subdued smile, and said, — 

“ You vait and see. Ve has a long dime to dink of de matter. Ve von’t 
run avay. Ve vill remain, and gets all our moneys at de same time. You 
trust to me. Dar is lots of fun in dis country, and ve vill see some of it 
yet,” and his words comforted me. 

We beat out of the harbor, a light northeast breeze blowing, and, as we 
stood through the kelp, on an off-shore tack, we pulled down our flag, and 
took the last, long look at the Barnstable, whose crew were so happy at the 
thought of soon being home. 

We were four days in beating up to San Pedro, where Mr. Melius joined 
us. As it was the season for southeasters we lay a long distance from the 
shore, and furled our topsails with two reefs in each, and spun-yarn for 
gaskets, and the anchor-watch was told to keep a sharp lookout for dark 
clouds in the southeast part of the heavens, and to call the mate if the air 
came from that direction, so that we could slip our cable, and run over, 
get under the lee of Catalina Island, arid wait until the gale moderated. 


On Land and Sea. 


325 


But we escaped, and, after receiving a few hundred hides, made a quick 
run to Santa Barbara, where we saw the usual handsomest female faces, 
the same dark, flashing eyes, and full complement of lazy men, and with 
nothing to do. 

Then we beat up to Ranche Refuigo, and here Lewey and I had a brief 
interview with Anita and Engracia, and pledged ourselves in the most sol- 
emn and boyish fashion to remain on the coast, and marry them, and the 
only preliminaries that we did not settle were the subjects of my religion, 
for Anita said that she could not marry a heretic, as the priest would curse 
her, and that would be bad for her future repose, and rest of her soul, while 
I had not enough religion to hurt my heavenly prospects. We were re- 
warded with a dozen kisses, and then ran for the boat. The captain never 
suspected the love-making that went on right under his nose, for if he had 
there would have been a sudden surge that would have brought us up all 
standing. 

Lewey made light of the trifling affair of changing religion. He was a 
Catholic, but the principles of the order had not taken a firm root in his 
heart, and he argued in this way : — 

“ Do you ’spose I care vedder I is a Catholic or de udder ding? No, by 
gar, I change vid de vife. S’pose vife Protestant, I de same. If she 
Catholic, I Catholic. Arter a vile, if you no like de vife, or de religion, you 
leave both, and den you try agin, and ve can keep on in dat vay till ve find 
de perfect voman.” 

His ideas were so decidedly Californian that I think he must have been 
a keen observer of the foreign residents, and the manner in which they 
changed their creeds at the dictation of love, or self-interest. Perhaps 
the latter had much to do with some of the sudden shifts that were resorted 
to. We often spoke on the subject, and, finally, let the matter rest until a 
certain contingency should arise, which was far ahead, and might not 
come. 

From the Ranche we ran up to San Luis Obispo, where we took on 
board nearly four hundred bushels of potatoes, intended for the schooner 
California, which was about to sail from Monterey to Mazatland, carrying 
down the vegetables as freight for our agent, and a nice little profit he must 
have made out of them, although it was not so pleasant for us, who had to 
load and unload them, and do a large amount of hard work, labor that did 
not belong to us. On this trip we had for a guest on board Captain Wilson, 
of the celebrated brig Ayaccucho, Mr. Dana’s favorite vessel, and a very 
fast craft. The captain had retired from the sea, and was now settled on a 


326 


On Land and Sea. 


large and profitable ranche at San Luis. He was a hearty old gentleman 
and much liked by every one on the coast. 

After Captain Wilson had been dined and wined to his heart’s content, 
we got under way, and beat up to Monterey, where we found the town in a 
state of great excitement. The schooner California was lying there wait- 
ing for us, but, on account of the perilous times, Captain Cooper had taken 
unusual precautions for the safety of his man-of-war. He had shipped an ex- 
tra kanaka, and began to clean his old musket, so that it could be fired if 
there should happen to be* a blood-thirsty conflict on the water. He thought 
that he could get the gun in working order in the course of a week, or ten 
days, if the oil-can held out, and seemed quite cheerful over the prospect of 
a brush when he had such a powerful weapon to back him. Even his ka- 
nakas were resolute, and showed their contempt for the troubles on shore 
by sleeping all night, and two-thirds of the day, disdaining anchor-watches, 
or any precautions against a surprise. 

All classes of citizens welcomed the Admittance and her crew. Even 
the old ladies, who had sniffed at the boys, now smiled blandly on us, and 
clapped their hands when we passed their houses. In us they saw angels 
of hope, for, from all that we could learn, it appeared that there was another 
revolution on the tapis, and this time a serious one, that threatened to 
shake the whole social fabric of California, and cause lots of blood to be 
shed. In fact, one Mexican soldier had already been fired at, and, if he had 
not been a mile or more away from the person who shot at him, the danger 
would have been great of murder in the first degree. 

Governor Micheltoreno issued a pronunciamento, and told the people 
that he would die for them, and fight for them until the last drop of blood 
was pumped out of his veins. Then General Castro, not wishing to be 
behind any one in valor, and in issuing paper bullets, threw a pronuncia- 
mento at the heads of the Mexicans that would have inspired them, if they 
had taken the time to peruse it, or got some one to do it for them. But, as 
the Mexicans were tired of reading, or listening while the more learned 
read, the proclamation fell harmless. Castro wanted all the Americans ex- 
pelled from the country, and the women were desirous of keeping them, as 
they made good husbands, and did not smoke and play monte all night, in- 
stead of going to bed where they belonged. 

Then Pio Pico went for them with a pronunciamento that knocked all 
the others into a cocked hat. He wanted the people to rally around him, 
as he was the only man in the country who was suitable to govern, and 
keep the custom duties high, and the citizens free of taxation. As he had 


On Land and Sea . 


327 


some money, and was ready to spend it, every one paid marked attention to 
his words, and a sergeant and two privates of the regular army were report- 
ed as wavering in their fidelity to the regular government, but this the al- 
calda promptly denied, and said that a loyal Mexican would never falter 
when duty called him to arms. 

Things were decidedly mixed, and w r e did not know whom to believe, or 
whom to support, for our agent wanted to be on the winning side, on ac- 
count of trade. The revolutionists would not dare to interfere with our 
ship, but, confound them, they could prevent us from receiving our fair 
proportion of hides, while there was trouble in the country, so the super- 
cargo praised and fiatterecLall, and looked out for number one every time. 

Then Castro, finding that he had frightened no one in Monterey, sent a 
special messenger, and a pronunciamento, to Captain Graham, at Santa 
Cruz, and requested him to get out of the country as fast as a horse could 
carry him, as he was a bad man, and a dangerous one. The captain read 
the paper, lighted his pipe with it, and returned to the general a single rifle 
bullet, and informed him that there were plenty left, with powder to back 
them. This made Castro so mad he refused to speak with Graham, or to 
take any notice of him for some months. He even avoided him on every 
possible occasion, for fear he might lose his temper, and hurt the captain. 

In the mean time the people of Monterey were in a state of great excite- 
ment, and Cook thought of raising the price of his auguardiente, there was 
such a demand for it, but re-considered his resolution, and watered the 
liquor instead, which was much better for the consumers and his treasury. 
The reports which were received each day by Mr. Larkin, the headquarters 
for all the news, was that Captain Sutter, with five hundred wild Indians, all 
armed with bows and arrows a fathom long, was on his way to the neigh- 
borhood of Monterey, to take a hand in the fight, and that lfe was making 
forced marches of five miles a day, for the purpose of being in at the death 
of some one, he did not care particularly whom. 

On hearing this the women uttered the most doleful yells, and all went to 
mass, and confessed their sins, so the priest had to crowd in much work in 
the course of twenty-four hours, for when a Mexican woman gets started in 
the acknowledgment line she has a good deal to relate, and it takes time for 
her to think of all her little failings in the course of the past month. It 
was said that each Indian was to be permitted to select a wife from the 
town, if captured, and this made the old ladies scream wilder than ever, for, 
although they did not object to husbands, they desired to have a voice in 
the selection, and had no fancy for wild Indians, who made their female 


328 


On Land and Sea. 


I 

mates do all the hard work, and scalped them when tired of their companion- 
ship. 

One morning the bugles at the presidio sounded, and all the gallant sol- 
diers were summoned to arms, to march out of the town, and defend the 
lawful governor, whoever he was. General Castro issued another pronun- 
ciamento, and promised to put himself at the head of the army, and con- 
quer, or die in the attempt. Then he mounted his horse, and rode down 
the coast, to raise more troops, and get them ready for immediate service. 
He returned after all danger was passed, and said that the whole State 
was just wild to fight some one, Americans preferred, if there was any 
choice. 

The commandante of the presidio, and his men, did not display much an- 
imation, even if the bugles sounded cheerfully. They were a long time 
cleaning their guns, and getting them ready, and when they did start it was 
late in the afternoon. They made a forced march of a mile and a half, and 
camped near the Mission Carmel. At dark all returned back to the town, 
to see if there was fresh news, and if any money was to be made in fight- 
ing on some other side than the regular government. They said that when 
they met Sutter’s wild Indians they would strew the earth with their car- 
casses, and hasten back to be crowned with laurel by the women. The la- 
dies, it was noticed, did not gather large heaps of evergreen in anticipation 
of the event. They preferred to wait for important results. 

Considering that Captain Sutter, as we afterward learned from the gen- 
tleman’s own lips, had not left his fort, on the banks of the American and 
Sacramento Rivers, to take part in the troubles, the threat was a safe 
one. 

There was so much alarm on shore, and so many rumors, our captain and 
agent determined to do what they could to inspire confidence, and save the 
lives of the women and children, if necessary. It was a praise-worthy mo- 
tive, and deserved much credit, but, when it is understood that there were 
no enemies near Monterey, that no one expected to attack the town, that 
all fighting was done with pronunciamentos, except on one occasion, when 
a Mexican was accidentally injured, it will be seen that our officers never 
failed to step to the front at the right time, and thus reflected honor on our 
flag and country, as in duty bound. 

It was resolved, at a council held at Mr. Larkin’s house, that our ship 
should shelter the women and children in case the towD was threatened by 
the wild Indians, and, to warn all to be on the beach in time, one of our 
six-pounders should be discharged if we saw the least signs of an enemy. 


On Land and Sea. 


329 


We were to land with our boats, and take off all who wanted to go on 
board. This was an excellent arrangement, and the husbands and fathers 
swore that the Americans, next to the Mexicans, were the greatest people 
in the world. Then they got up a little game of monte, and a very credita- 
ble cock-fight, during which some hundred dollars changed hands, and two 
caballaros had a quarrel, and drew knives on each other, but did not use 
them. 

That night one of our guns was loaded, and the anchor-watch was told to 
look sharp for the war-whoops of the Indians, and the roll of musketry, and 
to listen for the twanging of bow-strings. But no enemy appeared, and the 
town slept as quietly as possible, only disturbed by the barking of dogs, 
and the yells of the coyotes on the hills, where the celebrated Hotel of the 
Mountain now stands, as I have been told by those who have recently visit- 
ed Monterey. I hope to see the place some time before I die, and I trust 
the charges will be moderate, and no extras called for, as I should like to 
have money enough to get out of town, after my visit is concluded, for I do 
not care to tramp from place to place on foot if I can ride in a palace 
car. 

But the next night there was music on ship and shore. It was the an- 
chor-watch between twelve and one, and Lewey and I had the deck to 
ourselves. It was a calm, quiet morning, with a full moon. The French 
lad and I were leaning over the rail, looking toward the town., and wonder- 
ing why each Mexican family thought it necessary to keep ten or a dozen 
dogs, when we suddenly saw the gleam of steel, and a dozen or more men 
stealing across the ravine toward the presidio. The expected attack had 
come at last, we thought. The enemy were to capture the fort, and then mur- 
der the inhabitants. There was no time to lose if we would save them from 
a terrible fate. Some boys would have called the captain, and imparted the 
information to him, and let him act on his own judgment in regard to the 
matter, but we were not those kind of boys. We knew when there was dan- 
ger as well as any person on the ship. We did not stop to consider that 
the regular army of California was returning to the fort, for the purpose of 
having a safe place to sleep, and to escape further hardship. Other lads 
might have thought of such things, but we did not. We were different 
from most boys. 

“I vill de gun fire,” said Lewey, who was smoking a pipe, and, before I 
could stop him, even if I had wanted to, he had run to the six-pounder, 
knocked the contents of his pipe on the priming, and then there was a 
flash, a roar, and the slumbers of the town’s-people were interrupted by the 


330 


On Land and Sea . 


report of the cannon, warning all that the wild Indians were on them, and 
no quarter was to be given. 

Captain Peterson was disturbed by the discharge, as were all hands. 
The old man rushed on deck, not too well clothed, rifle in hand, and then 
very resolutely fired at the shore, although for what purpose I could not 
divine, as no enemy was in sight, and not a wild whoop was heard on the 
beach, or near the presidio. 

Mr. Prentice was just behind the captain, and did not stop to put on his 
shoes, or anything else. As soon as he saw the old man discharge his 
rifle, he up with a ship’s musket, and banged away at the town, and was 
kicked heels over head by the gun, because he had loaded it to kill, and put 
in too much powder and lead. He got up, swore a little, and returned to 
his state-room, put on his shoes, and other useful articles of dress, such as 
are considered proper in civilized countries, and on ship-board, by cabin 
company. 

Mr. Melius awakened from a deep sleep, and, thinking that the ship was 
attacked, came on deck with a flying leap, and fired away at the beach with 
his two pistols, and then returned to the cabin to re-load and dress, and he 
needed trousers more than pistols. 

Mr. Davidson rushed along the deck with a boarding pike, and nearly 
jabbed it in the back of the captain, while the third mate went forward, and 
called all hands to get under way, with the impression that we were to 
leave port at once, while the doctor started a fire in his galley, and began to 
heat water to scald some one, he did n’t care whom. 

At last the confusion subsided, and then the captain demanded who had 
fired the gun, and whose anchor-watch it was ? 

“Lewey and Thom’s,” was the prompt reply from all quarters, for the men 
were anxious to give credit where it was due, for some reason. 

The old man uttered a dismal groan, as though he felt a terrible pain, and 
presentiment, and did not know but the former might be a dangerous one, 
and the latter ominous. 

“ Vot for you fire de gun?” the captain demanded sternly of us boys. 

“ De presidio is taken by de vild Injines,” Lewey said promptly. “ I 
seed ’em. You can hear ’em now.” 

The captain ran to the topgallant forecastle, mounted it, and hailed the 
fort. 

“ Presidio, ahoy,” he shouted, so loud that even the coyotes ceased bark- 
ing, and listened, and the dogs skulked under the houses, and remained 
quiet for at least a minute, waiting for something to turn up. 


On Land and Sea. 


331 


“Si, senor,” was the answer, in a humble tone. 

“Vot is de matter dere on shore?” was the next auestion, but no ore 
understood him. 

“ Todas surrendry, capitano,” was the satisfactory reply. 

“ Bueno,” yelled the captain. “Just remain vere you are, or I ’ll blow 
you out of de vater.” 

Considering that the Mexicans were on the land, and that we had not 
fired a shot at them, this threat was a most remarkable one, and showed the 
estimation in which we were held. But they announced that all had sur- 
rendered, and that was glory enough for us. The big gun and the small 
arms had done the business, and we felt like giving three cheers with great 
heartiness. 

But there was work for us. We saw crowds of people moving toward 
the beach, and could hear the voice of gentle woman, as she yelled out her 
complaints and fears, and called upon the saints to hear her prayers, and to 
damn all the wild Indians in the country, if such a thing were possible. 

“ Lower avay de quarter-boats and de pinnace,” the captain said. “ Ve 
vill save de vimmin and de childrens at all hazards. Be lively.” 

Down went our boats with a run, and the crews were in their places when 
they struck the water. Mr. Prentice took charge of the pinnace, the third 
mate of the larboard quarter-boat, and I retained my position as coxswain 
of the gig, for the captain knew that he could depend upon his boys at all 
times, and under all circumstances. 

“Shove off,” the old man said, “and bring all de vimmin and childrens 
you can. I vill cover your landin’ vid de six-pounder.” 

At this terrible information we all stopped rowing. We were anxious to 
risk our lives for the people of Monterey, but we were not willing to be ex- 
posed to a chance shot from one of our deck guns. When it was dis- 
charged you never knew where the ball was going to strike, and it was 
more liable to knock our heads off than the greasers’. 

“If you are going to fire one of those six-pounders while we are on 
shore,” said the mate, firmly, but decidedly, “ I want to know it, so that I 
can guard my life. I am willing to fight Indians, and save women and 
children, but no one shall put me between cross-fires. I would like to live 
a few years longer, if 1 can.” 

“ I am anxious to do a seaman’s duty,” the third mate cried, “but noth- 
ing shall tempt me to step on the beach if we are to be fired on in the rear. 
*TaVt shipshape/’' 

“ I am an old man,” Jones exclaimed, as he removed his hat, and smooth. 


332 


On Land and Sea . 


ed down the scanty gray hair on his head. “ I have encountered all man- 
ner of dangers, and been engaged in many cutting-out jobs. Twenty years 
of my life were passed on English ships-of-war, and I never flinched, even 
when lightning struck the old Hector, near the powder magazine. But if 
that deck gun is to be fired with shot, while we are on shore, I want a 
chance to say my prayers, and make my peace for the next world. That ’s 
all I have to say,” and Jones put on his hat, and took a fresh chew of to- 
bacco, and looked resigned to most any kind of fate. 

“ You must gib ’em a little talke, too,” whispered Lewey, who was ambi- 
tious for the honor of our boat, and did n’t want to be slighted. 

“ I am but a boy,” I said, as soon as there was a lull, and I had a chance 
to put in my oar, “but still life is very sweet. I have a little money coming 
to me when I am of age. I will buy the gun, captain, if you will promise 
not to fire it while we are on shore.” 

This manly, fair, and just request was not received with much favor. 

“ I vill promise you somethin’ ven you comes on board,” was the re- 
sponse, “ and you vill feel it for a long time. Go on shore for de peoples 
vot is vaiting for you. Be lively. I vill not fire de gun vile you is gone.” 

We gave three cheers, and bent to our oars. My boat was the first to 
touch the beach, and I had no sooner landed than a dozen women’s arms 
were extended to embrace me, but, as the ladies were all old, and smelled 
of cigarettes and garlic, I did not respond, but wondered why the young 
and pretty ones did not come forward, and be assured of safety. 

“ Oh, the brave marineros,” howled the elderly females, and then three 
thoughtful husbands entered my boat, and left their wives to take care of 
themselves. I made the boys a sign, which they understood. They gave 
the boat a sudden cant on its besm end, and the Mexicans were pitched 
into the surf. Heavens, how they did swear, and shake themselves, and 
damn the water, the sailors, the revolutionists, the wild Indians, and every- 
thing that caused them such extreme hardship. 

When the other boats landed, Mr. Prentice commenced embarking the 
women and children, and not a man would he permit to enter the pinnace, 
although many tried to do so. While he was thus engaged a pretty little 
girl threw herself into my arms, and begged me, for the love of the saints, 
to save her from death and outrage. 

“ You know me,” she said in a hurried tone. “ You must remember me. 
You once kissed me. By the memory of that kiss, such as a sister would 
give to a brother, you will save me, will you not ? ” 

As I did not consider that there was any particular danger, I was willing 


On Land and Sea. 


333 


to let her cling to me as long as she desired, but, at the same time, I did 
not feel as though my services should go unrewarded, or that a kiss would 
be out of place. 

“ Senorita,” I said quietly, “ the wild Indians are near. I can hear 
their terrible yells. If I save you will you give me a kiss ? ” 

“Yes, a dozen, if you like,” and she put up her pretty face for the chaste 
salutes, and did n’t want any time wasted in the operation. 

I took two hurried kisses, and would have had more, but just at that mo- 
ment I saw Lewey was helping young ladies into the boat, and receiving lib- 
eral pay from each one he carried off through the surf. This was taking an 
unfair advantage, and depriving me of some of the perquisites of my office, 
for many of the girls were very pretty. I rebuked him for his greed, but it 
did not appear to have any effect on his hardened nature, for he said he 
was not going to get wet at that time of night for nothing. 

I took the little girl, who was clinging to me so frantically, in my arms, 
and placed hei in the stern-sheets of the boat, and then her sense of grati- 
tude was so great that she raised one of my hard, sun-burned hands, and 
made a motion to press it to her lips, but I was too quick for her, and, 
somehow, we reversed positions, for I saluted her hand, and told her she 
was now safe, and that I would die for her if necessary, which was not quite 
true, but it must have consoled her very much at the time. In an emergen- 
cy one live boy is better than a hundred dead men. 

We pulled off to the ship, although my boat was so full of women that we 
could use but two oars, but never were people more grateful for their seem- 
ing deliverance. The men we left on the beach, and when we had dis- 
charged our frieght, and returned for them, there were but few to be 
found. Most had taken to the woods, or returned home, not hearing any 
sounds of warfare near the town. 

The ladies and children were made as comfortable as possible between 
decks, on blankets and hides, and in the morning all were treated to a good 
breakfast of coffee and ship-bread, and such other articles as could be pro- 
vided by the cook and stewards. 

As the sun rose there was a new complication for us, one not anticipated, 
and it promised to be an international question before it was settled. We 
supposed that the revolutionists had attempted to capture the fort, and that 
our guns had frightened them into a complete capitulation, for they had 
hailed us that they surrendered the night before, although not a shot had 
been aimed in the direction of the presidio. Instead of the revolters 
against the government who had yielded, it was the government itself, or, 


334 


On Land and Sea. 


rather, the brave army that had made a forced march of a mile and a half, 
and then, tiring of war’s alarms, had retraced their steps, and entered their 
old quarters, where they could sleep in peace, and not be obliged to do 
guard duty, liable to be scalped at any moment. When we discharged the 
alarm gun, the officers in command imagined that the revolutionists had-' 
gained possession of the ship, or had bought its influence, and that our 
fire was directed toward the defenders of the presidio. As the army had 
all the fighting that it wanted for a week or two, a surrender was agreed to 
unanimously, and then the travel-stained and tired warriors went to sleep, 
all ready to be sworn in as defenders of the new government the next day, 
provided there was money enough to pay each soldier a dollar or two for 
the trouble of taking a new oath. 

There was a little mortification expressed when the new facts came to 
light, but all was explained quite satisfactorily, and a vote of thanks was 
passed by the alcalda, and his advisers, for the part we had taken. All the 
women we had assisted said that we were the bravest of the brave, but 
when we again landed them on the beach an elderly woman boxed Lewey’s 
ears because he did not handle her quite as carefully as he might have done, 
although the night before she would not have cared how he pulled her 
about, as long as he saved her from Indians, and cruel indignities. 

Things settled down in the course of a few days. Scouts, who were sent 
out to the Carme.l Mission, returned, and reported that there was not a sign 
of a wild Indian near the place, and so the scare blew over, but at last 
Micheltoreno had to vacate the position of governor, and Don Pio Pico 
took his place, and reigned two or three years, and made a very good officer, 

I believe, although I did not care much whether he did or no. 

The most ungrateful person in the town was the little girl who had clung 
to me so desperately the night I carried her off to the ship, and promised 
me a dozen kisses. I had only taken two, and when I called one day at 
her house, and asked for the balance that was due me, she laughed in my 
face, and said that I was a fool not to take my pay when I had the chance, 
and that I must wait until another midnight alarm for a receipt in full. 
That was a lesson which I never forgot, but at the same time it was not 
kind of that Mexican doncellita to treat me in such a brusque manner, after 
all my exertions in her behalf. She was married a few months afterward, 
and I believe made a good wife, or as good as the average run of Mexican 
wives, although it is true that most of the upper class of women were above 
all reproach, as far as faithfulness was concerned. I think they are better 
as wives than the men are as husbands, for they are devoted to their fami- 


On Land and Sea. 


335 


lies and children, and will suffer for them, while their mates pose before 
other women, and flirt on every occasion. 

We left Monterey for Santa Barbara, in company with the schooner 
California, the latter bound to Mazatland, with Mexican officers and passen- 
gers, vaflxious to return home. As the country was now quiet there was no 
occasion for such a formidable man-of-war being kept on the coast to defend 
the inhabitants. Captain Cooper thought that he could drift as far as Ma- 
zatland and back in the course of three months, if he was lucky, and we 
wished the old gentleman a pleasant trip, and away he went with his living 
freight, and nearly all the potatoes we had brought up from San Luis. The 
schooner did not carry off all, however, for some of our men laid in a stock 
of the vegetables that lasted them for many weeks. 

At Santa Barbara we lost the services of Mr. Prentice, much to our re- 
gret. The captain and mate could not agree, and so the latter was dis- 
charged, paid off, and went on board of a Chilian vessel as chief mate, 
and afterward captain, and in a few months left the coast, and I never saw 
him again, and only heard a rumor that he died somewhere in Peru. He 
was a kind-hearted, generous man, a good sailor and officer; but the captain 
and he would not understand each other, and never did, and so Mr. Pren- 
tice got careless, and did not carry on ship’s duty as the old man wanted 
him to do, and the only remedy was to separate, as they did, yet I believe 
the captain regretted his hasty action before many days, and asked his late 
chief officer to return, but it was too late. 

We shook hands when we pulled him on board the vessel that had 
touched on the coast for a little trade, and there was a tear in his dark eye 
as we bid him good-by forever. Mr. Davidson was promoted to the posi- 
tion of chief mate, and Mr. Goodhue was made second officer, and a man 
named Bishop was shipped as third mate. 

We ran down to San Pedro from Santa Barbara, and from thence went 
to San Diego, and discharged our skins, left Scotch Jack and two kanakas 
to take charge of the premises, and cure the hides, took in some more bal- 
last, and once more beat to windward, and stopped at all the ports, saw 
Anita and Engracia for a moment, at Ranche Refugio, and again anchored 
at Monterey, where we found the bark Tasso, Captain Hastings, and the 
ship California, Captain Arthur, both going to the leeward to load for home. 
While we were lying there the ships Sterling and Vandalia arrived from 
Boston, with full cargoes of goods, intending to trade on the coast, which 
was bad for us, as the vessels did not belong to our firm. We gave the 
crews of the new-comers- all the benefit of our experience, and told them 


33<5 


On Land and Sea. 


some yarns which made them wish that California had never been discov 
ered. 

From the Vandalia I received a box of necessary articles which my 
friends had sent out, and also the money I had written for. The latter was 
very acceptable to Lewey and me, for my small stock of dollars was getting 
low, and the many passengers that we carried to the ship rarely or never 
gave us a two-real piece. It was not the custom of the country to throw 
away money on boys who did the people a good turn. 

It was while we were here that we learned that Mr. Larkin was appoint- 
ed United-States Consul for the whole of California, but, as he had gone to 
Mazatland with Captain Cooper, we did not have to salute the consular flag 
until it was hoisted some months afterward. The gentleman made a good 
officer, and our government an excellent selection for the position, for he 
had done a great deal to keep the English. from gaining a foothold in the 
country. 

From Monterey we went to San Francisco, arriving there February 16, 
1844, and immediately stripped the ship of sails and light spars, and pre- 
pared to pass the winter months in this port. Here we were again joined 
by Mr. Teschemacher, and once more we commenced our trips up the 
creeks, in search of hides and tallow. But the duty now was not a pleasant 
one, for there were fierce southeast gales, and torrents of rain, and the 
weather was cold, and sometimes there were thin cakes of ice on the shal- 
low pools, and snow on the mountains, but the grass was green, and the 
flowers made their appearance in sheltered spots. Every one promised to 
kill cattle in the spring, and pay their debts. Promises never kept, unfortu- 
nately. 

It was while lying here that a terrible accident happened on board. It 
was on the morning of the 24th of May, and while the captain and Mr. 
Teschemacher were walking the quarter-deck, just after breakfast. Some 
of the men were aloft, doing a little job of work, but it was not done to suit 
Mr. Davidson, who uttered an impatient exclamation at the stupidity of the 
sailors, and jumped into the fore rigging. He went up the rattlings rap- 
idly, passed over the top, and stepped on the foot-rope of the foretopsail- 
yard. He must have missed his hold, for he fell with a terrible crash to 
the deck, and died in less than half an hour, for he was bruised, bleeding, 
and mangled, and did not utter a word after he touched the planks, neither 
was he conscious. 

Of course all work was suspended, and there was mourning fore and aft, 
for Mr. Davidson was a most faithful officer, and a good, kind man, and 


On Land and Sea. 


337 


a better sailor never stepped on the deck of a ship. If he had devoted 
some of his early years to study he would have been a master instead of a 
mate, years before. 

We hoisted the colors half mast, and sent on shore for a surgeon, but the 
only one that claimed the title was away from his home. All the doctors in 
the world could not have saved him, or given him a moment’s life. The 
foreign residents in Yerba Buena were very kind, and a Mr. Rea, and a 
Captain John Patty, an old inhabitant, and a sailor, came off, and volun- 
teered quite freely their services, but the only thing that they could furnish 
was advice as to the funeral. This took place the next day. The body 
was placed in a wooden box, made by the carpenter, and we lowered it into 
the pinnace, and towed the latter boat to the shore. Here the remains 
were met by the residents of Yerba Buena, and carried to the south side of 
Telegraph Hill, and interred, and a piece of plank set up at the head of 
the grave, with the name and age of the deceased. The bones had not 
been disturbed in the early part of 1849, but I suppose they have long 
since been swept away to make room for improvements. 

The captain felt the mate’s death quite keenly, and for one week did not 
scold us boys. He began to realize that valuable people were scarce, and 
probably feared that one of us might die. 

The ships Sterling and Vandalia were in port at the time of the accident, 
and all the officers were present at the funeral, and expressed sorrow at the 
loss of a very clever man. 

The next week, after the gloom had lifted, and Mr. Goodhue got accus- 
tomed to his new position of chief mate, the launch was fitted out for a 
week’s trip to San Rafael, and Murphy’s Ranche, where the captain had 
an invitation to shoot deer. We took provisions, a tarpaulin to shelter us 
from the rain, and our oiled coats, and heavy boots, as it is no joke to be 
caught out in a southeaster, in an open boat, during the winter season. 

We hoisted sail, and ran across the bay, to Captain Richardson’s, where 
Leweyand I had the pleasure of once more seeing the young and handsome 
ladies of the family, but I regret to say that they only gave us a mere 
glance, and not so much as a formal smile, for which we did not blame 
them, and, after the captain had uttered his usual stock of compliments, 
taken a drink of milk, and a glass of wine, we w r ere off for San Rafael, where 
we arrived in the afternoon, and found some Indians with a horse to take 
the captain to the ranche. We were told to remain, and wait for hides, and 
all the deer the old man might shoot. We were requested to behave our- 
selves, just as though such advice was necessary, and the French boy re- 


338 


On Land and Sea . 


sented it by saying in a sneering tone that he could eat all the venison the 
captain killed. He did not utter the remark until his superior was some 
distance on his way, for reasons that were quite satisfactory. As the 
launch was manned by Lewey, Davy, and myself, we had no one to order 
us about, so put on airs to Davy, and told him to remain by the boat, while 
we went up to the adobe house, to pay a visit to the American and his 
Mexican wife, whose child Lewey had cured the first time we visited the 
place, some months before, when we were called sailor vagabonds by the 
shrill-voiced Mexican woman, tired of a drunken husband, and discouraged 
by the illness of her child, whom she was tending with all a mother’s ten- 
derness, and without the faintest idea of how it should be treated in the 
absence of medicines and a physician’s advice. The place looked the same 
as when we first saw it, — untidy and neglected, with open door, and no 
windows, and a mess of garbage in front, smelling like a cesspool, as it had 
not been cleared away for months, and the rainy season had added to the 
accumulation by forming miniature ponds. 

We found our distinguished countryman, as usual, under the influence of 
auguardiente, and uproariously glad to see us, while the woman gave us a 
hearty welcome, and said that we were the best boys she had ever seen, 
which was not news to us. Then she called in the child that had been 
cured, gave its face a dry wash with the skirt of her dress, and asked us to 
admire it, which we did, although we should have expressed our admira- 
tion a little more forcibly had there been less dirt, and more traces of natu- 
ral skin. 

There was nothing in the house too good for us, but candor compels me 
to state that the larder contained only corn and dried beef. By borrow- 
ing from the stores of the launch we were enabled to make a very good sup- 
per, and then the husband, disdaining the courtesies of modern society, 
took a long pull at a bladder full of his fiery liquor, and went to sleep, 
leaving the wife to entertain us, and remarkably sociable she became in 
the course of the evening, or just as soon as her husband commenced snor- 
ing, which was far from musical. 

“ Muchacho,” she said, addressing Lewey, and speaking in a low, confi- 
dential tone, “ I have tired of a drunken husband, and want a change. Will 
you marry me ? ” 

“ The saints defend me,” Lewey said, crossing himself, as though to 
keep the evil one at a distance. “ I am but a boy, and you have a husband 
already.” 

“ You may be a boy, but a sober boy is better than a drunken man. I 


On Land and Sea. 


339 


will be very loving to you, if you will marry me,” and the woman looked 
every word she spoke. 

“ But what will you do with the snorer ? ” asked Lewey, very much flat- 
tered at the proposition, but rather disposed to fight shy of such a sudden 
proposal, one that did not inflate him with hope and ambition to become a 
bridegroom at a moment’s notice. 

“ Oh, leave him to me. I will get the wild Indians to attend to him at 
any time, or just as soon as you say you will take me,” was the prompt an- 
swer, and I believe the woman meant all that she said, for there was a 
vicious look in her eyes, that showed she was capable of great enter- 
prises to secure a new husband. 

Our hair began to arise. This woman was very practical, and she might 
set a tribe of Indians on us, if we refused her request, but Lewey said that 
he had a wife and three children at home, and did not dare commit bigamy, 
much as he should like to. Beside, he swore that he was a good Protes- 
tant for the time being, and his church would never sanction such a union, 
even if her religion permitted such a thing. 

The lady looked a little disappointed, then she turned to me in a resolute 
manner. 

“ You can’t be married ? ” she asked. 

“ No, but I am engaged, and a v.ery strong heretic. Nothing could in- 
duce me to change my religion. Not even for the honor of your hand,” I 
said firmly, but gallantly. 

She sighed a little dolefully, as though ^ she had struck a hard line of 
luck, and then murmured very sadly, — 

“ Well, I suppose 1 must get along with that drunken sot until the right 
person comes this way. But it is very bad for a loving woman like me. 
Hear him snore, and think what I have to endure night after night. The 
saints pity me, for my lot is a hard one.” 

We readily agreed with her, and suggested a separate bed, but there was 
only one in the house, and no spare room, so the proposition fell unheeded. 

We had intended to remain at her house all night, but this conversation 
rather changed our minds on that point. 

“Thom,” said the French lad, “ ve must to de boat go back. I vould 
not stay here all night for much moneys. It vould not safe be. I tremble 
for mineself and mine honor.” 

As I had never heard him boast of his honor before, I began to think 
that the house was not a safe place for us, and gladly seconded his mo- 
tion for an adjournment to the shelter of the launch. Our hostess pressed 


346 


On Land and Sea. 


us to remain, but we told her that it would be wrong to leave our shipmate 
all alone, and that we might have to sail in the night for the bay. We 
could not tell when we should be called upon to embark, as the captain was 
a very uncertain person, and would get angry if he found us absent from the 
boat. 

We left her and her husband alone together, not counting the children, 
who were stowed about the house somewhere, and that drunken 
American did not know that we were instrumental in saving his life, by 
great sacrifices on our part. We never saw the lady again, as we kept away 
from her place. We considered it dangerous and wrong to place ourselves 
in her sight, and thus allow her eyes to feast upon our charms, and beauty 
of person, and never reciprocate her tender passion. As she was only fif- 
teen years older than we were at the time, we took pity on her tender, 
trusting, clinging nature, and thus nipped her love in the bud. Beside, she 
might have sent the wild Indians after us, as soon as she tired of our soci- 
ety, and it was best to be on the safe side, when women in love, and wild 
Indians, are mixed up in your fate. Both are to be avoided, if possible. 
There is not such a vast difference between hair pulling and scalping as 
one might imagine. 

The captain spent three days at Murphy’s Ranche, and then sent down 
two deer, which some one said he had shot, and we did n’t see how he 
could help it, as venison was so plentiful that if he had fired his rifle in any 
direction he could not very well miss bringing down a buck or a doe. 
Lewey said that he could take a club, and go into the woods, and kill more 
deer in an hour than the old man could in a week, with his gun. But that 
was only one of the French lad’s exaggerations. He could n’t have done 
anything of the kind, and he knew it, but liked to talk for the sake of hear- 
ing his tongue go, and poke a little fun at the captain. But in all serious- 
ness there were so many deer at San Rafael that it was not uncommon to 
see a dozen within gunshot of the boat every morning, and they did not pay 
us much attention, even when we moved about, and shouted, to see them 
jump and pose before us. They were rarely hunted except by the officers 
of men-of-war, who were in port, and wanted a good day’s sport, and they 
could always find it at Murphy’s Ranche, even if all the comforts of life 
were not obtainable at the place, for, although Mr. Murphy was rich in land 
and cattle, his house an(f domestic affairs were not gorgeous, and visitors 
used to wipe their faces and hands, when they had to wash them, on any 
part of their shirts that appeared most convenient, and the best adapted for 
the purpose. Hunters need not be told the particular parts that are gener- 


On Land and Sea. 


341 


ally selected at an early hour in the morning, before full dress is completed, 
or suspenders are passed over shoulders. 

An hour after the arrival of the deer the captain put in an appearance. 
We got our sail up, drifted down the creek, out across the bay, and were 
soon on board. I heard the old man tell Mr. Goodhue that he had had 
glorious sport, and did not bring to the ship even one quarter of what he 
killed, this showing that hunting stories, in California, can be traced back 
long before the present San-Francisco Gunning Club was formed, of which 
my friend, Mr. Bent, is a member, and who can always get more ducks and 
geese in his bag, according to his account, than any one else, if he has a 
fair show. 

The days passed away pleasantly enough in our winter quarters, except 
when it was raining and blowing, and we got one or the other about once 
in forty-eight hours. Every morning, unless it stormed too hard, I was 
sent to Senora Abarono’s ranche for milk, and tramped across the muddy 
fields, where palaces now stand, and it was on my return from one of my 
visits that I had a. narrow escape, and all on account of a fat, healthy young 
girl, who weighed one hundred and sixty pounds, without her clothing, 
which did not press her form out of all shape, or impede her movements. 
She was barefooted, for she could not afford to wear shoes that would fall 
all to pieces as soon as wet, while stockings were not looked upon as neces- 
sary for appearance and comfort, except by the very rich people, and then 
only worn during fetes, such as marriages and christenings, for the feet 
were pretty enough without adornment of any kind, and most of the ladies 
were aware of the fact, and did not blush to show their ankles when they 
walked, or sat down, and the more the rude foreigner stared, the better the 
women liked it. 

When I returned from the ranche with my bucket of milk, and a bottle 
full in the pocket of my monkey-jacket, for the benefit of the steerage mess, 

I found a healthy, smiling young girl at the landing, and waiting to go on 
board. It was early for company, but I was always ordered to take all who 
presented themselves, and there was no reason why I should refuse so 
good-looking a senorita, and, therefore, helped her in the boat, and assisted 
to wash off the mud from her little feet, dark, but very well formed, and 
then dried them with the boat’s swab, and this took a long time, as it was a 
very particular job, and one that could not be done hastily without giving 
offence. Lewey offered to aid me, but I told him to keep his place, and not 
be too familiar with the lady passenger, who looked up to me with confi- 
dence, as one who had charge of the boat, and could be trusted in all 


342 


On Land and Sea . 


things, especially in such a delicate business as that which I had under- 
taken. 

He grumbled as usual, but had to submit, and, to console him, I gave the 
bottle of milk to his charge, with directions to get it over the side unde- 
tected. It was a cool, damp morning, and the wind had blown a gale dur- 
ing the night, and kicked up a confounded cross-sea, as the tide was ebbing 
fast, so we were in no hurry to shove off. I was just finishing the young 
girl’s feet, by the aid of my warm jacket, when a signal from the ship warn- 
ed me that it was dangerous to delay any longer, as the mate was growing 
impatient, and the cabin was waiting for breakfast, and the milk for the 
coffee. 

“ I s’pose you ’d fuss over dat gal all de day,” sneered Lewey, who was a 
little jealous of the attention I was bestowing on her, but I silenced the 
grumbler by a look, and then we shoved off, and pulled for the ship, making 
a desperate effort to appear in a great hurry. 

Now the girl was very nice, but she was not one 10 receive much atten- 
tion on board, as she did not seem to be overburdened with wealth, and 
could command but few hides, so the new mate merely glanced over the 
rail, saw the passenger, and said, — 

“ Where in the devil’s name did you pick up that woman ? ” which was 
very unkind on his part, but he could not hurt her feelings, as she did not 
understand a word that he uttered, so only smiled, and tried not to look 
miserable and seasick. 

“ She wants to purchase her wedding trousseau,” I said, thinking that 
would cause respectful treatment, but the mate only grumbled, as he re- 
marked, — 

“ I ’ll trouse you, if you bring any more company alongside at this un- 
timely hour,” misunderstanding my words, as he was not up in his French, 
and had not the least idea what a trousseau was like, and there are many 
men of the present day who are a little ignorant in this respect, but swear 
when the bills come in, and have to be paid. 

“ A’n’t you going to send down a whip,” I asked, “to hoist the young 
lady up ? ” 

“ No, the men are at breakfast, and there is no whip rigged. Let her 
come up the steps if she wants to.” 

“ She can’t,” I ventured to suggest. 

“ Then put the man-ropes in her hands, and do you follow her up, so that 
she won’t fall.” 

The captain was at breakfast, so there was no recourse but to obey or 


On Land and Sea. 


343 


ders, although the job was not an agreeable one, and I would willingly have 
shirked it. To add to my humiliation Lewey began to laugh, and Tom and 
Davy to grin like idiots. 

But I had to start her, as it was rough alongside, and the ship was rolling 
a little in the trough of the sea, caused by the tide and wind. 

I put the man-ropes in her hands, and encouraged her to make the at- 
tempt. She did not like it, but started, and I followed her up, clinging 
close to her, but, confound the luck, just as she got half way, she was af- 
fected by the rolling of the ship, and had an attack of mal de mer, and I 
reaped the benefit of it, while the boys in the boat just laid down on the 
thwarts, and roared with laughter. 

“ Stick to her, Thom,” cried Mr. Goodhue, who began to be alarmed, and 
he motioned for the boat to be pulled ahead, so that if we fell it would be in 
the water, and not on the thwarts, and thus break our necks or limbs. 

This was a nice position for a boy. I had to sustain a stout girl in my 
arms while she was seasick, and giving evidences of it, and if I let go we 
would both tumble in the water, and the tide was running like a sluice, and 
the waves were high, and the weather was cold, and I did n’t want to get 
wet, or to see the girl drown, or pull me under, and perish in her arms. 

“ May all the saints have me in their keeping,” the girl managed to groan, 
and then she slipped down on me a little harder, and my arms ached until 
I thought they would drop off, and still the mate yelled, — 

“ Hold on to her, Thom. Don’t you dare to let go. I ’ll be with you in 
a minute,” and into the mainchains he jumped, and, leaning forward, put 
his hand under the young girl’s arm, and held on to her, and still the poor 
thing suffered, and the ship rolled worse than ever, and I received the ben- 
efit of it, and the boys in the boat were in convulsions, although I could not 
see anything to laugh at. 

One of the men happened to be on deck, and, hearing the uproar, came 
to our assistance. He jumped over the rail, stood on the plankshire, and 
got hold of the right arm of the girl, and between us three we boosted her 
on the deck, and a more frightened or a sicker girl never came on board. 

“ Let this be a warning to you, Thom,” said the mate. “ Don’t bring any 
more women on board until we are ready for them.? 

I promised that I would remember, but did not stop to hear any more 
lectures, for I dodged below, and changed my clothes, from top to bottom, 
and then, as the young woman was not cabin company, I shared my break- 
fast with her, for even if she was ill she could eat a little, and did not dis- 
dain a pot of hot coffee with milk. Before she left the vessel she had 


344 


On Land and Sea. 


bought a cheap looking-glass, that cost her a dollar, while the retail price at 
home was about six cents. You see it paid to be polite to her after all. 
But the owners never reimbursed me for my clothes, nor allowed me a cent 
for mental anxiety, which was intense for the time being. 

After that all ladies were landed on deck by the aid of a whip, a much 
easier method than climbing steps, followed up by a boy. Beside, it had 
the additional recommendation of being more polite and modest, good ar- 
guments in its favor. 

If I was not writing a truthful account of my adventures in California, I 
should state that the captain, pleased by my manly deportment, and strict 
attention to all the various duties that devolved upon me, one day called me 
aft, and offered me the position of third mate, with the privilege of having 
a handle to my name, but, to my surprise, he did nothing of the kind, and 
the reason was, I imagine, that I made myself too valuable in boating ser- 
vices. I have since questioned the captain a second time on the subject, 
and he candidly admitted that he had never given the matter a moment’s 
consideration, so I think that the rapid promotion of good boys is a fiction 
on the part of sea writers. 

We went over to San Leandy with Mr. Teschemacher one day, after a 
load of hides, and again saw the handsome Senora Vetro. The lady gave 
me a pleasant welcome, but, there was much maternal work for her to at- 
tend to, the youngest of her family, a new one, having an appetite as strong 
as the first time I saw his predecessor, and there was not much chance for 
a lengthy conversation. I never saw the handsome little mother again, but 
I hope she is alive, and all her children as nice as the parent used to be in 
her younger days. 

We got under way June 12 for Monterey, and arrived there on the 14th, 
where we found the schooner California, Captain Cooper, just from Mazat- 
land, with a cargo of sick soldiers. Here we welcomed Mr. Larkin, the 
newly appointed consul for the United States, and when he hoisted his of- 
ficial flag, we saluted it with seven guns, being the first vessel on the coast 
that complimented him. It was on this visit that I returned to the gentle- 
man the last volume of Scott’s Waverley, books which I had enjoyed most 
thoroughly, for they were new to me, never having had an opportunity to 
read them before. 

The town was very much excited on account of two things, — rumors of 
a war between the United States and Mexico, and some bad cases of small- 
pox. I do not know which caused the most consternation, but think that 
the thoughts of trouble between the two countries was looked upon as the 


On Land and Sea. 


345 


greatest curse. Even the revolutionists and unionists were friends for a 
short time, on account of the danger that threatened the common weal. It 
was considered desirable that there should be no division of parties until 
the danger passed away, small-pox and war. 

The alcalda called a meeting of the inhabitants of Monterey one afternoon, 
on the plaza. I happened to be on shore, and heard the speeches. Gen- 
eral Castro was there, and, after all had resolved to die in defence of Cali- 
fornia, Mexico, and Santa Anna, the war-horse of the country stepped for- 
ward, and made a few remarks, and they were received with immense ap- 
plause. 

He said that he was a soldier, and meant to die for the people; that he 
would shed the last drop of his blood to repel the invaders of his native 
soil, and he called all to rally around the banner of his country, and fight to 
the last, for los Americanos were a treacherous race, and could never 
stand before the brave Mexican, even for a moment. 

Here Captain Graham, of Santa Cruz, rode up, with his rifle across the 
pommel of his saddle, a cigar in his mouth, and a pair of pistols in his belt. 
He sat on his horse, and listened to the eloquence, then laughed in the gen- 
eral’s face, which was not polite on Graham's part, and confusing to the 
man who wanted to fight so badly, for he stopped, and hesitated, and said 
that he knew every naturalized Mexican would come forward, and stand 
shoulder to shoulder with his friends and neighbors, and then closed by 
calling on Captain Graham to say a few words to the people. 

The captain was nothing loath to talk. He sat on his horse, and uttered 
a few sentences, and was listened to quite attentively. He said that the 
country was torn to pieces by revolutionists, and that every man was fight- 
ing on his own hook, and for his own advantage, and that if there was war 
between the United States and Mexico, every port on the coast would be 
taken by the former’s ships, and there was no help for it. He was as will- 
ing to fight as any man for California, but not against such great odds, — 
rifle balls opposed to heavy guns. He advised neutrality in all respects, 
for to wage war was useless, as no one could be benefited by it, or hope 
for success. 

But Castro thought differently. He wanted carnage, and, to show how 
much the people were in earnest, the fort was dismantled the next day, so 
that there should be no invitation or incentive to provoke a sloop of-war 
to make an attack. The meeting was dissolved, after passing a voti of 
confidence in Pio Pico, the governor, or Micheltoreno, who wanted to be. 
I have forgotten which was governor just at that particular moment, they 


346 


On Land and Sea. 


changed so often. A resolution of thanks was also voted to the alcalda, one 
of confidence in the Mexican people, and Santa Anna, and a unanimous re- 
quest that the priests should pray to the saints to abate the small-pox, or to 
take such other measures as they thought expedient for the occasion. 

I have not space to relate all the doings on the coast while I was in the 
Admittance. We made frequent trips up and down California, were five 
times in San Francisco, six at Santa Cruz, twelve at Monterey, seven at 
San Luis Obispo, eight at Ranche Refugio, twelve at Santa Barbara, twelve 
at San Pedro, and ten at San Diego. 

The last lime we were at San Francisco was on October 4, 1845, and then 
the whole northern portion of the country was in a ferment, because Lieu- 
tenant Fremont, with some fifty or sixty men, was on the Sacramento Riv- 
er, having crossed overland, and made some important surveys. It was 
proposed by Castro to drive him home, but he did n’t drive very well, and 
then the general issued a proclamation, and retreated to Monterey, lo see 
what effect it would have. In my sequel to this biography I shall have oc- 
casion to refer to both parties, and state what was done more fully. 

The men were so delighted at the idea of leaving California, and that 
they were never to see San Francisco again, that they cheered and sang 
songs, while catting the anchor, and hoisting the topsails, and every one 
did his best in making sail. Never were the yards msst headed so quickly 
as that day, and, as we drifted past the island of Alcatraz, we even saluted 
the old sea-lions, basking in the sun on the rocks, as though parting from 
old friends, whom we had known for a long time. We touched at all the 
leeward ports, and took on board hides, stopping for a day at Ranche Refu- 
gio, where we saw tearful Anita and Engracia for a moment, and swore to 
return to them as soon as possible, and then bade farewell to the people at 
Santa Barbara, the surf, the kelp, and the white Mission, carried our last 
lot of hides down the hill of San Pedro, dropped anchor and moored ship 
in the safe harbor of San Diego, in the month of December, 1845, and im- 
mediately commenced loading for home, after smoking ship, and cleaning 
out all the vermin. Every one was happy, and, for the first time during the 
voyage, there was no grumbling. Even English Jack did not ventilate 
his wrongs, or quarrel with his shipmates, but told about what he would do 
when he reached Boston, and discussed the question of farming with any 
one who would talk with him. 

The captain was now observed to smile in a bland manner as the work 
went rapidly on. We dumped our ballast over the side as usual, regard- 
less of port regulations, and commenced taking in thirty-six thousand hides, 


On Land and Sea. 


34 7 


which we had collected in two years’ time, and forty tons of horns, the lat- 
ter being used for dunnage for the cargo. We also had ten casks of beaver 
and otter skins, beside several iron flasks of quicksilver, and some few 
pounds of gold-dust. 

One day, when the lower hold was stowed, and the hatches on, and 
caulked, I again asked the captain if he would give Lewev and myself a full 
discharge, and pay us off. I stated to him that there were plenty of men 
on the beach anxious to get home, who would ship for the same wages we 
were receiving, and glad of the chance, but the proposition almost took the 
old man’s breath away, and for the second time. 

“ Vot in de debil’s name do you vant to stay here for ? ” he asked, a little 
abruptly. “ I vant to git home.” 

He wanted to get home for the same reason that we desired to remain. 
Two girls were the attraction for us, and a young lady the inducement for 
him, but both reasons were kept out of sight, ours, because we did not dare 
to mention why we found California so attractive, and he did not deem it 
any of our business why he disliked the country. 

“We thought of starting a ranche,” I said. “ If you should ever come to 
the coast again we will trade only with your ship,” thinking that argu- 
ment would fetch him, and that he must be delighted at the thought of the 
profit we should bring his owners. 

“ You vill go home vid me, so dare is no more to be said about it,” and 
the captain turned away, and, when I spoke to Lewey on the subject, and 
told him the rebuff that I had met, he looked thoughtful for a moment, and 
then said, — 

“ Ve vill not go home in de ship, and ve vill stay here. Jist vait a vile, 
and you vill see, but you must do jist as I tells you to, and say nothin’ to 
nobody,” and I promised, and had renewed hope. 

Three days before the ship was ready to sail, Lewey said to me one 
night, just before we were ready to turn in, — 

“ In de mornin’, ven all hands is called, ve is too much sick to turn out. 
You has a mal de tfete, a bad headache, you know, and a pain in de back, 
and no vant to skoff de grub for de breakfast, and has de fever, and vant to 
.drink all de time, and you see dings, and talks much nonsense, and den you 
vaits till de next day.” 

When we were called in the morning we did not respond. Lewey had a 
pot of water at the side of his bunk, and I had another. We had got the 
other boys to wait on us, and complained of being parched with thirst, and 
burning up with heat, with cold shivers running down our backs. As this 


343 


On La?id and Sea. 


was the first day that we had been ill while on the coast, Mr. Goodhue came 
down in the steerage, to see what the trouble was all about, and a little 
anxious. 

As soon as we saw the mate we groaned, and kicked around in a restless 
manner. 

“ What is the matter, boys ?” Mr. Goodhue asked, quite kindly. 

Poor fellow, he was none too well himself, and died on the passage home, 
whereas he should have remained in California, and lived, as he might have 
done had he been discharged. 

We were too ill to answer, but did some beautiful sighing. 

He looked at us, and saw that our faces were flushed. We had rubbed 
them with the blankets, and got up a little friction. 

“ You don’t think that it is the small-pox, do you, Mr. Goodhue ? ” I 
asked. “You know there are some cases in San Diego.” 

He did n’t know, but moved back from our bunks, and made for the 
steps, and went on deck, as though he had important business there. 

“ He is all tighten'd,” whispered Lewey. “ Groan some more. You 
don’t groan half hard enough.” 

None of the boys would eat breakfast in the steerage that morning. 
They took their meals on deck for a day or two, and slept there a^o. They 
feared contagion. Mr. Goodhue had hinted we were down with the scourge 
that every sailor dreads, — small-pox. 

After breakfast we heard the captain’s voice on deck, and then he de- 
scended the steps, and entered the steerage, looking a little troubled. 

“Veil, boys, vot is de matter?” he asked, and came toward us, and felt 
of my pulse, and then of Lewey’s. 

We kicked and groaned, and motioned for a drink from the tin pots. 

He helped us to water, and forgot all about the pulse. 

“Yes, I see,” he said, although he did not tell us what he saw. “ I vill 
give you some nice salts, and tomorrow you vill be all right.” 

A terrible groan from Lewey as he thought of the dose, and a response 
from me as I imagined what I should have to swallow. 

He left us, and sent by the steward two delicious doses of his favorite 
medicine, with directions to take the whole, and drink hot tea, and keep 
quiet. My share went into the slop bucket, and Lewey’s followed in the 
same direction. The captain thought he could cure bad cases of small-pox 
with Epsom salts. He was mistaken that time. 

At sundown we were no better, and one ot the boys was detailed to sit 
up, and watch with us. The captain paid us a visit in the evening but 


On Land and Sea . 


349 


there was no visible improvement. Of course the watcher stretched him- 
self on a chest, and went to sleep, as we knew he would. Then Lewey’s 
genius came in play. He carefully arose, went to his dunnage, and got out 
a small case of painting materials, mixed a little yellow and red matter to- 
gether, touched my face, neck, and arms with the end of a brush, and 
treated himself in the same way. 

“ Ve can’t vash our hands and faces for a few days,” he said, “but ve 
vill be left on shore, and ven de ship is gone ve vill have a good scrub,” 
and then we went to sleep, and when Mr. Goodhue came down to see us in 
the morning, he said, with some alarm, — 

“ By gracious, it is the small-pox, sure enough,” and left us without 
ceremony. 

The captain was puzzled when he saw us. He sent up town for a doc- 
tor, but no one would come near the ship, and at last it was resolved to 
land us at the hide house, with all our effects, and then fumigate the steer- 
age, and see if it was possible to stop the epidemic. Scotch Jack and the 
kanakas had had the disease, and were not fearful of it in the least. As all 
three men were to remain and keep control of the building until the Barn- 
stable came back to the coast, there was a good chance of our being well 
looked after. This was the best course the captain could pursue, as we 
should have nice quarters on shore, and plenty of light and air, much better 
than in the steerage. They had a fearful time in changing our quarters, 
and we were not so sick but we could see that all our property went with 
us. 

We did not improve on shore, but nearly starved to death, as we were 
permitted to eat only a little rice, and bread and water, and when the quack 
doctor in town, a fellow who knew nothing of medicine, could be induced to 
come to the beach, and examine us, he said that in all of his long experi- 
ence he had never seen such bad cases of small-pox, and doubted if we 
could live a week. Then he pocketed his fee, and fled, and we did not see 
him again for some weeks, or until we were able to get out-of-doors, our 
own masters. Then the M. D. swore that he cured us, and obtained a great 
reputation on the strength of it. 

However his opinion settled our case in the mind of Captain Peterson. 
He could not delay the departure of his ship, as she was all ready for sea, 
and to take us on board would involve the health of the crew. He did not 
hesitate to come and see us, and to express sympathy for our unfortunate 
condition, and to ask if we wanted our full discharge and pay. We said 
that we could see no other course for him to pursue. 


350 


On Land and Sea. 


Did our consciences trouble us for our deception ? Well, I should think 
they did, and more than a dozen times we were on the point of owning up, 
and getting well, and returning to the vessel, but the thought of the happy 
life we were to lead as rancheros, and free to do as we pleased, restrained 
us. 

It was a mean device that we adopted, and we gave a good man much 
anxiety and trouble, but boys, when in love with pretty girls, do not stop to 
think of others. Their whole thoughts are centred on themselves, and the 
ones they are enamored of. We deserved severe punishment, and if we 
had been detected should have received it, but escaped, and after- 
ward had cause to regret it, in a measure, when the United States and Mex- 
ico were at war, and we were forced to side with the latter, or be shot as 
enemies. 

So the captain, with tears in his eyes, wrote out our full discharge, and 
paid our wages to Captain Fitch, he acting as our guardian and treasurer, 
in case we should recover, and on the 25th of January, 1846, the Admittance 
weighed anchor, made sail, and, amid the firing of guns from the bark Tas- 
so, the Vandalia, Don Quixote, and the brig Moscow, left the port that had 
welcomed her so many times, and put to sea. 

There were cheers given from all the vessels, there was waving of hand- 
kerchiefs, and very fervent wishes for future prosperity, for a speedy 
passage home, and, as Lewey and I sat at the door of the hide house, and 
saw the old ship off Point Loma, on her course, sending out a cloud of 
studding sails alow and aloft, we suddenly awoke to the fact that we were 
not on board to lend a helping hand, that our places were supplied by two 
ordinary beach-combers, that we were deserted and alone in a foreign land, 
with only strangers for friends, and our future uncertain before us. Then 
our boyish fortitude gave way, and we shed tears, for the first time since we 
had been intimate, and we would have given all of our little hoard of Mexi- 
can dollars could we have been on board once more, mingling with the 
crew, joking with them, playing the usual pranks, poking fun at the officers, 

- when they were not present, eating our rations with hearty relish, and know- 
ing that every movement of the ship was helping us toward our homes and 
dear friends. 

Lewey put his arms around my neck, and sobbed as though his heart 
would break. All of his French bonhomie was gone, and in place of care- 
less indifference, and thoughtless disregard of the future, was deep unhap- 
piness. We. mingled our tears, and these washed away the painted spots 
on our faces. Then the sunny nature of the boy broke out, as he laughed 


On Land and Sea. 


351 


long and merrily at our singular appearance, and, patting me on the back, 
said, — 

“ Courage, mon gargon, de vorld is still afore us, and ve vill hab lots of 
fun. Now let us vash our faces, hab a swim, and den ve vill eat our din- 
ners, smoke, and talk de ding over. Don’t you shed annuder tear, for ve 
must dink of Anita and Engracia, and vid dem ve skall be so much happy 
as ever vas. Alons, ami, dink of the booful times ve shall hab, and no von 
to tell us to do vot ve don’t vant to.” 

The people on the beach wondered at our rapid recovery, and Scotch 
Jack was inclined to be indignant, but we sent to town for a bottle of augu- 
ardiente, and doled it out to him, and he suddenly awoke to the fact that he 
was glad we were with him, for company, and hoped we would always re- 
main, and be messmates on shore, as we had been shipmates on the sea. 

A few words more, and this narrative will be brought to a close. The 
Admittance made the passage home in one hundred and seven days, the 
quickest time that had ever been known at that period. Soon after passing 
the latitude of Brazil, on this side of the land, Mr. Goodhue, the mate, died 
of consumption, and was buried at sea. Everything was done to prolong 
his life, and carry him home, but it was not to be, and when he expired 
every person on board mourned his loss. There was no other important 
incident during the passage. The captain married the lady he had waited 
for so patiently, -and long may they live to enjoy each other’s company, and 
to talk over incidents of other days. 

Of the old crew t>f the Admittance one is a pilot in Boston har- 
bor, another, Tom, is in Philadelphia, and those are all that I have kept 
track of except Lewey, in the French navy, and Captain Peterson, retired 
from the sea, with a modest competence to make his declining years happy. 
Mr. Melius is dead, but Mr. Teschemacher is still a resident of San Fran- 
cisco, rich, and has occupied many positions of responsibility and trust in 
the past, and I hope more in the future. 

Those who would like to follow our adventures to a conclusion, are in- 
vited to read “ Lewey and I ; or, Sailor Boys’ Wanderings,” a seciuel 
to “ On Land and Sea.” 


The Library of Choice Fiction. 

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■ DAW RBNC ^ D. I^YNCH, of t h e U. 8 . Se cret S ervi ce. 


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Now published for the first time. 520 pages with sixteen full 
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MADELINE PAYNE, the Detective’s Daughter. 

There is a great deal of true emotional feeling in this captivating 
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THE LOST WITNESS; or, The Mystery of Leah Paget. 

The incidents of this strong story are brought out with a great 
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A thrilling story of 426 pages, with 45 full-page illustrations. 
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The Library of Choice Fiction. 

No other similar Series contains such a proportion of Masterpieces 
by Famous Writers from America, Fngland, France, Germany, 
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Travel and Adventure by this popular Writer, 
WIUIAM M. THOMFS. 


A GOLD HUNTER’S ADVENTURES IN AUSTRALIA. 

An exciting story of the time when the thirst for gold rageu 
fiercely at the Antipodes. 564 pages ; 40 full-page illustrations. 

A WHALEMAN’S ADVENTURES ON SEA AND LAND. 

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RUNNING THE BLOCKADE. 

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THE BELLE OF AUSTRALIA; or, Who Am I ? 

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ON LAND AND SEA; or, California in the Years 1S43, ’41 
and ’45. 

A graphic description of country, people and events in a most in' 
teresting period. 351 pages Never issued yet in paper covers. 

LEWEY AND I ; or, A Sailor Boy’s Wanderings. 

A sequel to “Land and Sea,” and the latest work of this famous 
author. Never issued yet in paper covers. 407 pages. 


Readers of good literature are advised to procure Laird & Lee’s 
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SOLO BY ALL NEWSDEALERS AND UPON ALL TRAINS, OR SUPPLIED 
BY ,J P PUBLISHERS. 

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